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Mitsubishi Outlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Can you provide your sources on how the 2012 GT has a stronger sway bar over 2011 and 2010 models, are the part number different?

    The strut bar is not to reduce sway but to reinforce the chassis.

    My theory is that Mitsu needed to reduce cost and started not installing this part after 2011. Also you will notice 2011 has the interior motion detector and a little siren speaker with wiring on the driver side of the firewall, in the engine bay, this is also missing on the 2012. (but I personally do not care for the motion detection because the sensor is ugly.

    I know Cusco makes one for the outlanders but since it is mostly for Japanese market, it may not fit the 3.0L as well?
    The best thing to source the part is from a 2011 outlander, but I do not know of the part number even looking at the diagrams from oemmitsubishiparts.com
  • Do you know if MZ690072 is an OK filter to use for 3.0 V6 outlander engine?
    It seems the same size as the Japanese filter (68mm) and therefore the filter wrench MB991396-01 will continue to work properly.

    The filter you listed MZ690116 is a shorter and fatter one (80mm), I suppose can use either wondering which one is better. For example originally 68mm is installed and you get some dirt build up around the oil filter housing and you put a 80mm filter the gasket is going to spin on a dirty area. And the outlander doesn't give you good access to give it a good cleaning.
  • You may be right, however I do not think that Mitsubishi seeks to save money with the GT otherwise it will offer to customers a strut option to order. It does not.

    The stronger sway opinion was given to me by a dealer without elaborating. However I should mention that my Lexus SC300 was sold to me long ago without a strut tower bar in spite of the fact that these models were high speed performance. The Toyota Supra which is super high speed performance has indeed a strut fitted in it.

    I have tried my GT 2012 in the Vancouver Islands (zigzag roads) in rain at high speed and the car responded as expected. Perhaps Mitsubishi engineers found out that a strut is not necessary bearing in mind that the GT 4x4 has an active front differential that may conflict with the strut assemblage. Perhaps this is the main reason that a strut is not an option for the 2012 Outlander GT. However these are just opinions.
  • I have used oil filter# MZ690072 in my previous Outlander XLS and in my 2010 GT (not always). However, that filter is recommended for the Outlander 2.0L & 2.4L.

    With regard to the filter wrench MB991396-1, this will ease the Japanese filter but not the US filter in spite, as you said; the length is the same (68 mm). The filter MB991396-1 is 1 or 2 mm wider which make it inoperative to ease the US oil filter. The oil filter wrench for the US filter has part# MB991396 (without the extension -1).

    As a matter of fact the Japanese filter fits neatly on the mouth of the filter cavity, so there is no space for accumulation of dirt. However, the 80 mm of the oil filter cavity that sticks out could result in the accumulation of dirt. As a matter of fact every time you change a filter a clean cloth must be used to wipe the mouth thoroughly before putting in a new filter.

    The 80 mm oil filter needs to be adjusted all its length, and also be torque appropriately. The first time I did this, without proper fitting, oil flushed out everywhere under the car when the engine was switched on. The final result was a mess.
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 84
    Was at the dealership today for oil and filter change on my 2010 ES. Tech advised the vehicle required a four wheel alignment for $99.00 due to uneven tire wear. I had also noticed some looseness in the steering which tightened right up after the re-alignment was completed.
    I'm wondering if others have had alignment issues this soon. The vehicle has low milage and is driven exclusively on paved highway although perhaps the occasional pothole might throw the alignement out.

    Also looked at a brand new 2013 Outlander LS which they had recently received as a management vehicle marked as not for resale. It was the same as a 2012. I queried the supposed 2013 redesign and hi-bred models and it was suggested these might be introduced mid 2013 for the 2014 model year.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,248
    As another low mileage driver (my '10 Outlander GT has almost 26K miles) I've not noticed any issues with the steering or alignment. All I've really done maintenance-wise is the 6-month oil change (always under the mileage allotment) and tire rotation roughly every 7500 miles. I did the 2 year/30K service this past June as the car was 2.5 years old but still under 30K miles; I considered that a reasonable compromise. Oh, and around 16 or 18K miles I replaced the engine air filter with a K&N which I use to keep air filter costs down over the life of the car.

    I had heard that the redesigned Outlander would hit the US as a 2014 but might hit other markets as a 2013. I'm OK with that as I don't really have plan on trading in mine with such low miles. And I'm not really sold yet on the redesign's styling; I will need to see it in person. But I am excited about the eventual debut of a plug-in hybrid version if Mitsu can keep the costs reasonable.
  • Greetings!
    I'm thinking of buying a 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander BUT it has some corrosion on the engine compartment. I checked the undercarriage and it looked fine.
    What do you guys think, a deal breaker?

    Thanks!!
  • I would drive it to a Mitsu Dealer to see if the warranty for corrosion is still in effect...They will be able to tell you if the car was flooded...

    What's the price....Mileage....condition...?
    Is it a private party sale or used car lot sale...?
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    The Outlander as well as any car comes from factory with their 4 wheel aligned to correspond to standards of the type of car. Alignments are related with angles that receive names like Caster, Camber and Toe-in & Toe-out. The dealer has the standards angle values for your car model.

    I noted that after a traffic accident my Lexus SC300 was slightly pulling to the right on very flat tarmac road, which gave an indication that, the car may need an alignment. I already had the standards values for this car (i.e. caster, camber, and toe), so I requested the dealer to provide me with the computer printout of the actual angles of the 4-wheels of my car which the dealer did. The dealer must provide you with the computer listing after supposedly the dealer has done the alignments. The latest computer print out must be almost equal to the standard values (that is why you have paid $100). I may say, do not take the technician’s words as fully trustworthy.

    I have found out, after accompanying my wife to the garage for a change of tires for her car, that the technician called my wife to tell her that petrol filter need to be changed or that one of the wheels does not rotate as it should and the technician suspected something wrong with the calliper.

    Equally I also observed a young woman with her Audi lifted coming back from this helpful advice of the technician totally distressed. You could see that the woman was pale and become paler when the technician said that all the extras things to do will cost her around $500.

    I did not take any note about the technician’s advice to my wife because the technician’s findings are presently part of his/her technique to increase the profit of his/her establishment.

    There is a lot of information in the Internet to go empty handed to a garage to be screwed up by them.

    With regards to your alignment of your car and the fact that your tires show uneven wear I may say that also the uneven tire wear can be produced because of under or over tire inflation. Buy a tire pressure gauge and check the pressure of your tires every 15-days before you take your car for a ride.

    With regards to the outlander 2013 I may say that if the car looks similar to the 2012 model then that car is not the brand new Outlander (check Mitsubishi Motor Russia) to have an idea of the external shape of the car or just google the internet for this new model. There is a lot of information about the Outlander 2014 for the USA.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    It appears that corrosion is a problem with the Outlander that has missed some corrosion prevention treatment from manufacture. However a 2008 Outlander should have the normal corrosion little ones spots somewhere but nothing serious. Most probable this car has been driven on the beach (salted sands) or has been left in storage near the beach without proper protection for months. Also the salt on ice roads is responsible for premature corrosion in the engine bay. If you suspect this is what happens in your car you should use a spray bottle filled with pure water and spray all that part that you suspect salt is involved. If the corrosion has already take hold there is a product used to protect airplanes on air planes carriers (sea). I have used ACF-50 spray to stop corrosion to continue. This product protect for 2-year and it has to be used again to continue protecting your car. I have used this product in my Lexus SC300 engine bay. It does not attack rubber or plastics. The engine compartment of my Lexus looks like new in spite of the fact that it is 16-years old.

    As a matter of corrosion prevention we should spray the entire engine compartment with 3M dry silicone spray or equivalent after 1-year ownership. Silicone does not attack rubber or metal and may protect your car for 4-6 months.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    edited October 2012
    Mitsubishi has upgraded its ATF specifications for the Outlander V6 3.0L. It appears that the only ATF suitable for the Outlander 3.0L (2010-2013) is DiaQueen ATF-J3. Below is the Advert for this part:

    Part # 4031610

    This is the only transmission fluid for the 2010 - 2013 Mitsubishi Outlander 6 Cylinder Engine with a 6 speed automatic transmission is to use! No equivalent is available from ANY auto parts store!

    Outlander 2007-2009 V6 3.0L the recommended ATF was DiaQueen ATF-J2.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,562
    edited October 2012
    Is that a Mitsubishi ad or in the owner's manual? I'm always curious when manufacturers try to require tie-in sales to maintain warranties. (FTC link)

    People were sometimes using the Hyundai brand for SP-III fluid. Same stuff licensed to Hyundai but often cheaper.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    I have noted that sometimes the automatic seems to hesitate a little bit when the engine drops to slow speed (10-20 miles/hr) from high speed (60-80 miles/hr). From past experience (Lexus SC300) I have noted that a small amount up or down (let’s say ¼ of a quart) of the required volume of ATF may cause this small vacillation.

    I consulted the 2012 service manual to find out that the automatic fluid of my GT is indeed DiaQueen ATF-J3. Approximately 1-quart of ATF-J3 costs $20 while ATF-J2 costs $10. The ATF-J3 is sold in 4-litre container while the ATF-J2 is sold in 1-quart container.

    I will experiment by adding ¼ of a quart of ATF-J3 to see if this may eliminate the automatic hesitation of my GT. I said adding instead of taken away because Mitsubishi technicians may lapse by exclusion than by inclusion. The saving that Mitsubishi may gain is 250,000 quarts of ATF-J3 in 1 millions cars sold wide world.

    I am not an oil engineer but a grade of fear of damaging the automatic unit may be the main reason to use the OEM ATF given by Mitsubishi (i.e. ATF-J3). Oil scientists add additives (many of which are patented) to oil used in the automotive industry. I am very careful of obeying what car’s manufacturers specify for their cars (although this may be a hoax) because I do not know what will happen with my automatic transmission unit if I use cheaper or unknown ATF oil.

    I personally follow the specifications given for Mitsubishi as far as fluids are concerned. Example: brake fluid, engine oil fluid, steering oil fluid, transfer fluid, A/C fluid and ATF fluid
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,562
    Thanks Batman. I'm not fond of proprietary formulas for scheduled maintenance items but the FTC seems to be easing off enforcement of those kinds of tie-in sales so I suspect we'll be seeing lots more of them.

    With correspondingly higher prices too.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 904
    Oil change at Mitsubishi dealer yesterday. Had a coupon for $22 oil change plus I got $20 gift card for test driving new car. Service advisor hit up everyone getting service for a $60 cabin filter, about half bit. I picked one up at autozone on the way home, $17. Drove a '13 Forester, OK, nothing special, not a disappointment getting back in my 5 year old Outlander.
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    I have moaned about the sloppy suspension in the 07 Outlander - you know the head bobble that is caused by the suspension set as one changes lanes and the body tries to catch up with the tires.
    I installed a set of H&R Springs two months ago and WOW - not cheap when you employ a mechanic to install them but REALLY worth it. They lower the car about 1." overall but most importantly the spring weight and progression is dialed in really well. If road clearance isn't big deal I recommend them. :D
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Yes, my Outlander XLS 2008 had a weak rear suspension spring (coil). This was improved with the Outlander GT 2010. The Outlander GT 2012 has stronger suspension spring and it stands much heavy cargo.

    Right & left rear suspension spring (coil) has part#4140A187 at a price $78 each. It may prove better choice than H & R spring.
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 395
    Does anyone know of a less expensive source for the intermediate pipe of a 2007 4WD Outlander? I'm finding the local parts stores don't stock it and the Mitsubishi places online want $750 (discount) compared to about $950 list. I'm about 5 months beyond my 5 yr bumper to bumper and while I've heard certain things get covered longer under "emissions", I don't think this wil (anyone know?). It's part 3 below and bolts in with triangular flanges front and rear. I think the front blob to the whole assembly is a catalytic, but nothing describes it as such.

    image
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 904
    Wow that's pricey, must be a catalyst in there.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    What is wrong with part No 3 in your exhaust? Why do you need to replace it? Is it broken/damaged? Can not be welded? How does it affect your performance? Exhaust gases escape from this part? etc?

    What problem does part No 3 cause?? Did you use poor quality gas?
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 395
    edited February 2013
    There is a large hole at the top of the pipe immediately after what I believe is the catalyst. Unfortunately Mitsubishi has this as one large welded assembly, not separate pieces to be put together, making it custom and expensive. I currently have a soup can held on with hose clamps rendering it totally quiet, but for how long? I don't drive very far each day so the exhaust doesn't totally dry out from start up condensation. 42K miles since fall of 2007.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    OK.
    How did the hole appear in the first place? What is your diagnosis? Was the hole made by corrosion or because you hit the exhaust with something unintentionally while driving?

    If a soup can is able to solve the problem so perhaps you can make it permanently by using a piece of stainless steel pipe (home depot) and using 2-clamps to fix it in place or just use the service of a mechanic welder to do the job.

    However, it is very important to know what caused the exhaust pipe hole in order to apply corrective measurements before the problem happens. My Lexus S300 has 140K miles and the exhaust pipe is still the original.
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 395
    edited February 2013
    Respectfully, it is immaterial that a Lexus with likely a stainless steel exhaust system can last 140K miles.(not surprised) Apples and oranges. This Mitsubishi pipe section is NOT stainless (but should be be for the price). Prior to stainless exhaust systems it is quite common for systems to corrode from inside out in a few years (especially if not driven enough to dry out the condensation (short trips). The large hole is on the top of the pipe (rust through, not from any collision damage). Over time I've had a few heat shield pieces fall off this pipe from cheap spot welds. I'm not impressed with the lack of quality. So rather than delving into how I got here I'm just hoping to find a more reasonably priced replacement (if one exists) Thanks all.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 30,458
    I would suggest a local exhaust shop, and let them weld a piece in.

    I remember taking my Mazda 323GTX in to the dealer for exhaust work. The service writer looked at it and said, "You don't want to get that fixed here". He directed me to the local place. $300 vs. $950, and that was in 1994.

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    I have talked with Mitsubishi car owners with cars older than 2007 (e.g. Montero, Galant) to be told that problems seem to appear in the engine (burning oil or leaking oil) at around 120K-140K miles of use. These problems were quickly solved by replacing the old engine gaskets with new ones. They never mentioned to have an issue with the exhaust pipe. How many Mitsubishi owners of 2007 Outlanders are having this exhaust pipe problem? If there are many more with similar problems then perhaps is worth it to extend the warranty (i.e. 7-year/100,000 mile Anti-Corrosion/Perforation Limited Warranty) if this is feasible and pay a bit more or save $10 per month from the date of the buying of the new vehicle for 5-6 years to buy a new exhaust.

    However, it seems to be true about the short journeys in your Outlanders as a cause for exhaust corrosion. A good rule of thumb could be to take the Outlander for 20 miles ride every 15-day at speed above 65 mph. Please do not get me wrong but your experience with your Outlander is a good indication for other owners to prevent premature exhaust pipe corrosion.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 904
    No problem yet with my '07 Outlander with 63k. Wife's commute is about 7 miles each way. Salty Wisconsin winters, also. I'm guessing most extended warranties won't cover exhaust pipes, not sure about catalyst unit.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,248
    My '99 Galant had no exhaust issues over 10.5 years & 152K miles. I live in the Chicago area so winters bring salted roads and whatnot. The Galant's replacement, a '10 Outlander GT, hasn't had any issues other than a coil throwing a code twice in 3 years/28K miles (dealer's moved it to another cyl & will replace if the error happens again & follows the coil).
  • r8dr8d Posts: 2
    hi everybody,
    im new here and new to outlanders.
    just bought a jan 2009 black outlander, 65000km done. service history shows all services were done right upto 60000km at the same mitsubishi service centre. have had it for about 2 months and all was good,
    until 3 days ago when i start my car, ABS light comes on as well as 4WD with the exclamation mark and the large ABS sign with service required. All the lights stay on, and sometimes when I'm driving, even at 10km/hr the light goes off saying drive slow.
    Wanted to know how bad is it? Is it just a sensor problem or is this really serious.
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 395
    I had an ASC problem that turned out to be and ABS module problem on my 2007. While in my case I could still drive around , I didn't like they originally quoted several weeks to get the part. Luckily it only took 2 weeks to get the module and was replaced while still under the 5 yr bumper to bumper warranty. (don't want to guess how much it would have cost otherwise ) If you go back to article 320 you can pick up the thread. Sure hope it is only a sensor in your case or it's otherwise covered and whatever parts are quickly available. (modules like this should be more readily stocked if so many things depend on them and the replaceable part is the whole module and not a sub assembly)
  • fastgstfastgst Posts: 46
    edited March 2013
    Why not have the exhaust shop fabricate a piece to replace your corroded piping

    That second canister is likely a resonator/inline muffler and not a catalytic convertor.

    It sounds like for $950 you are getting a new catalytic convertor too?

    Even though the mitsubishi builds it as one piece, a shop can cut off right after the cat and make new pipe piece-wise to the muffler. replace the resonator with another one, etc. Check with local emission laws though.
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