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Mitsubishi Outlander Maintenance and Repair



  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    Its all about how you insert it. Turn it so markings are on the oether side - mine its on the left. ;-)
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    After emptying all the oil into the oil pan (4.2 qt, 4.0L) and the old oil filter (0.32 qt, 0.3L) has been taken off, you may add exactly 4.2 qt of 5W-20 oil into the engine after a new oil filter has been fitted. When the car is horizontal (after taking the jacks from the front of the car) wipe the oil stick with a cloth and test the oil level (after running the engine for ½ a minute). Most probably the two holes on the stick will be empty. Start adding 0.10 qt of oil and check the oil stick. Repeat procedure until the first hole is covered with a thin layer of oil. Continue adding more 0.10 of oil and repeat procedure until the second hole is covered with a thin layer of oil.

    You may buy a transparent graduated funnel (1/2 liter or qt) to add oil gradually to the engine. I personally do not add oil to cover the second hole.

    Without any worries I add 4 qt of oil and then start to add oil until it reaches a total of 4.2 qt + 0.32 qt = 4.52 qt.

    Every month I check the engine oil and I am satisfied when the first hole is covered with a thin layer of oil. Never change oil when the engine is fresh.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    May I ask you why do you want to do this job?
  • fastgstfastgst Posts: 46
    Are you talking about the V6 engine? I thought the handle is like a knob and the end of the dipstick has the 2 holes and no special markings.
  • puncpunc Posts: 2
    When i start the car the engine check light and the ASC off warning lights are displayed and the engine stalls and the rpm is not stable and the car wont accelerate over 50kmph.. tried scanning it and error codes stating throttle control ecu fail and audio can time out comes up,
    please help with some solution for this ...
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,232
    If you're still under warranty I'd suggest taking it to a dealer. Unless you're not the first owner or have over 100K miles already the powertrain warranty should still be in effect. If you're not the first owner but the car has under 60K miles then warranty is still there. Review the warranty details at

    As far as a diagnosis goes, the ECU is the first place to look since that's what the error codes point to. Also consider the related sensors and the possibility of a tank of bad gas (which might necessitate checking/replacing the fuel filter).
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Please replace "transparent graduated funnel" by "transparent graduated jug"
  • evogt11evogt11 Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with AM. It wasn't the antenna. it was the head unit of the radio. I found a used one on e-bay. Rather easy to replace.
  • puncpunc Posts: 2
    i had my vehicle checked from a dealership service center here in sri lanka and they told me that this problem would be solved if the ECU was reprogrammed for which he said that the climate conditions are different so the sensors are faulty, would this be a solution to this problem??
  • It appears that the front suspension of the GT has been modified (stronger sway) to make the strut redundant in a GT. There are, however, aluminum strut tower bar as an option for the 2.0L & 2.4L Outlander sold in Japan (#MZ574483). Nevertheless, this option is not valid for the Outlander 3.0L. So I may said, do not try to fit a strut tower bar onto your Outlander GT.
  • Can you provide your sources on how the 2012 GT has a stronger sway bar over 2011 and 2010 models, are the part number different?

    The strut bar is not to reduce sway but to reinforce the chassis.

    My theory is that Mitsu needed to reduce cost and started not installing this part after 2011. Also you will notice 2011 has the interior motion detector and a little siren speaker with wiring on the driver side of the firewall, in the engine bay, this is also missing on the 2012. (but I personally do not care for the motion detection because the sensor is ugly.

    I know Cusco makes one for the outlanders but since it is mostly for Japanese market, it may not fit the 3.0L as well?
    The best thing to source the part is from a 2011 outlander, but I do not know of the part number even looking at the diagrams from
  • Do you know if MZ690072 is an OK filter to use for 3.0 V6 outlander engine?
    It seems the same size as the Japanese filter (68mm) and therefore the filter wrench MB991396-01 will continue to work properly.

    The filter you listed MZ690116 is a shorter and fatter one (80mm), I suppose can use either wondering which one is better. For example originally 68mm is installed and you get some dirt build up around the oil filter housing and you put a 80mm filter the gasket is going to spin on a dirty area. And the outlander doesn't give you good access to give it a good cleaning.
  • You may be right, however I do not think that Mitsubishi seeks to save money with the GT otherwise it will offer to customers a strut option to order. It does not.

    The stronger sway opinion was given to me by a dealer without elaborating. However I should mention that my Lexus SC300 was sold to me long ago without a strut tower bar in spite of the fact that these models were high speed performance. The Toyota Supra which is super high speed performance has indeed a strut fitted in it.

    I have tried my GT 2012 in the Vancouver Islands (zigzag roads) in rain at high speed and the car responded as expected. Perhaps Mitsubishi engineers found out that a strut is not necessary bearing in mind that the GT 4x4 has an active front differential that may conflict with the strut assemblage. Perhaps this is the main reason that a strut is not an option for the 2012 Outlander GT. However these are just opinions.
  • I have used oil filter# MZ690072 in my previous Outlander XLS and in my 2010 GT (not always). However, that filter is recommended for the Outlander 2.0L & 2.4L.

    With regard to the filter wrench MB991396-1, this will ease the Japanese filter but not the US filter in spite, as you said; the length is the same (68 mm). The filter MB991396-1 is 1 or 2 mm wider which make it inoperative to ease the US oil filter. The oil filter wrench for the US filter has part# MB991396 (without the extension -1).

    As a matter of fact the Japanese filter fits neatly on the mouth of the filter cavity, so there is no space for accumulation of dirt. However, the 80 mm of the oil filter cavity that sticks out could result in the accumulation of dirt. As a matter of fact every time you change a filter a clean cloth must be used to wipe the mouth thoroughly before putting in a new filter.

    The 80 mm oil filter needs to be adjusted all its length, and also be torque appropriately. The first time I did this, without proper fitting, oil flushed out everywhere under the car when the engine was switched on. The final result was a mess.
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 84
    Was at the dealership today for oil and filter change on my 2010 ES. Tech advised the vehicle required a four wheel alignment for $99.00 due to uneven tire wear. I had also noticed some looseness in the steering which tightened right up after the re-alignment was completed.
    I'm wondering if others have had alignment issues this soon. The vehicle has low milage and is driven exclusively on paved highway although perhaps the occasional pothole might throw the alignement out.

    Also looked at a brand new 2013 Outlander LS which they had recently received as a management vehicle marked as not for resale. It was the same as a 2012. I queried the supposed 2013 redesign and hi-bred models and it was suggested these might be introduced mid 2013 for the 2014 model year.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,232
    As another low mileage driver (my '10 Outlander GT has almost 26K miles) I've not noticed any issues with the steering or alignment. All I've really done maintenance-wise is the 6-month oil change (always under the mileage allotment) and tire rotation roughly every 7500 miles. I did the 2 year/30K service this past June as the car was 2.5 years old but still under 30K miles; I considered that a reasonable compromise. Oh, and around 16 or 18K miles I replaced the engine air filter with a K&N which I use to keep air filter costs down over the life of the car.

    I had heard that the redesigned Outlander would hit the US as a 2014 but might hit other markets as a 2013. I'm OK with that as I don't really have plan on trading in mine with such low miles. And I'm not really sold yet on the redesign's styling; I will need to see it in person. But I am excited about the eventual debut of a plug-in hybrid version if Mitsu can keep the costs reasonable.
  • Greetings!
    I'm thinking of buying a 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander BUT it has some corrosion on the engine compartment. I checked the undercarriage and it looked fine.
    What do you guys think, a deal breaker?

  • I would drive it to a Mitsu Dealer to see if the warranty for corrosion is still in effect...They will be able to tell you if the car was flooded...

    What's the price....Mileage....condition...?
    Is it a private party sale or used car lot sale...?
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    The Outlander as well as any car comes from factory with their 4 wheel aligned to correspond to standards of the type of car. Alignments are related with angles that receive names like Caster, Camber and Toe-in & Toe-out. The dealer has the standards angle values for your car model.

    I noted that after a traffic accident my Lexus SC300 was slightly pulling to the right on very flat tarmac road, which gave an indication that, the car may need an alignment. I already had the standards values for this car (i.e. caster, camber, and toe), so I requested the dealer to provide me with the computer printout of the actual angles of the 4-wheels of my car which the dealer did. The dealer must provide you with the computer listing after supposedly the dealer has done the alignments. The latest computer print out must be almost equal to the standard values (that is why you have paid $100). I may say, do not take the technician’s words as fully trustworthy.

    I have found out, after accompanying my wife to the garage for a change of tires for her car, that the technician called my wife to tell her that petrol filter need to be changed or that one of the wheels does not rotate as it should and the technician suspected something wrong with the calliper.

    Equally I also observed a young woman with her Audi lifted coming back from this helpful advice of the technician totally distressed. You could see that the woman was pale and become paler when the technician said that all the extras things to do will cost her around $500.

    I did not take any note about the technician’s advice to my wife because the technician’s findings are presently part of his/her technique to increase the profit of his/her establishment.

    There is a lot of information in the Internet to go empty handed to a garage to be screwed up by them.

    With regards to your alignment of your car and the fact that your tires show uneven wear I may say that also the uneven tire wear can be produced because of under or over tire inflation. Buy a tire pressure gauge and check the pressure of your tires every 15-days before you take your car for a ride.

    With regards to the outlander 2013 I may say that if the car looks similar to the 2012 model then that car is not the brand new Outlander (check Mitsubishi Motor Russia) to have an idea of the external shape of the car or just google the internet for this new model. There is a lot of information about the Outlander 2014 for the USA.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    It appears that corrosion is a problem with the Outlander that has missed some corrosion prevention treatment from manufacture. However a 2008 Outlander should have the normal corrosion little ones spots somewhere but nothing serious. Most probable this car has been driven on the beach (salted sands) or has been left in storage near the beach without proper protection for months. Also the salt on ice roads is responsible for premature corrosion in the engine bay. If you suspect this is what happens in your car you should use a spray bottle filled with pure water and spray all that part that you suspect salt is involved. If the corrosion has already take hold there is a product used to protect airplanes on air planes carriers (sea). I have used ACF-50 spray to stop corrosion to continue. This product protect for 2-year and it has to be used again to continue protecting your car. I have used this product in my Lexus SC300 engine bay. It does not attack rubber or plastics. The engine compartment of my Lexus looks like new in spite of the fact that it is 16-years old.

    As a matter of corrosion prevention we should spray the entire engine compartment with 3M dry silicone spray or equivalent after 1-year ownership. Silicone does not attack rubber or metal and may protect your car for 4-6 months.
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