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Mitsubishi Outlander Maintenance and Repair

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  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    edited October 2012
    Mitsubishi has upgraded its ATF specifications for the Outlander V6 3.0L. It appears that the only ATF suitable for the Outlander 3.0L (2010-2013) is DiaQueen ATF-J3. Below is the Advert for this part:

    Part # 4031610

    This is the only transmission fluid for the 2010 - 2013 Mitsubishi Outlander 6 Cylinder Engine with a 6 speed automatic transmission is to use! No equivalent is available from ANY auto parts store!

    Outlander 2007-2009 V6 3.0L the recommended ATF was DiaQueen ATF-J2.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,993
    edited October 2012
    Is that a Mitsubishi ad or in the owner's manual? I'm always curious when manufacturers try to require tie-in sales to maintain warranties. (FTC link)

    People were sometimes using the Hyundai brand for SP-III fluid. Same stuff licensed to Hyundai but often cheaper.

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  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    I have noted that sometimes the automatic seems to hesitate a little bit when the engine drops to slow speed (10-20 miles/hr) from high speed (60-80 miles/hr). From past experience (Lexus SC300) I have noted that a small amount up or down (let’s say ¼ of a quart) of the required volume of ATF may cause this small vacillation.

    I consulted the 2012 service manual to find out that the automatic fluid of my GT is indeed DiaQueen ATF-J3. Approximately 1-quart of ATF-J3 costs $20 while ATF-J2 costs $10. The ATF-J3 is sold in 4-litre container while the ATF-J2 is sold in 1-quart container.

    I will experiment by adding ¼ of a quart of ATF-J3 to see if this may eliminate the automatic hesitation of my GT. I said adding instead of taken away because Mitsubishi technicians may lapse by exclusion than by inclusion. The saving that Mitsubishi may gain is 250,000 quarts of ATF-J3 in 1 millions cars sold wide world.

    I am not an oil engineer but a grade of fear of damaging the automatic unit may be the main reason to use the OEM ATF given by Mitsubishi (i.e. ATF-J3). Oil scientists add additives (many of which are patented) to oil used in the automotive industry. I am very careful of obeying what car’s manufacturers specify for their cars (although this may be a hoax) because I do not know what will happen with my automatic transmission unit if I use cheaper or unknown ATF oil.

    I personally follow the specifications given for Mitsubishi as far as fluids are concerned. Example: brake fluid, engine oil fluid, steering oil fluid, transfer fluid, A/C fluid and ATF fluid
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,993
    Thanks Batman. I'm not fond of proprietary formulas for scheduled maintenance items but the FTC seems to be easing off enforcement of those kinds of tie-in sales so I suspect we'll be seeing lots more of them.

    With correspondingly higher prices too.

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  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 894
    Oil change at Mitsubishi dealer yesterday. Had a coupon for $22 oil change plus I got $20 gift card for test driving new car. Service advisor hit up everyone getting service for a $60 cabin filter, about half bit. I picked one up at autozone on the way home, $17. Drove a '13 Forester, OK, nothing special, not a disappointment getting back in my 5 year old Outlander.
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    I have moaned about the sloppy suspension in the 07 Outlander - you know the head bobble that is caused by the suspension set as one changes lanes and the body tries to catch up with the tires.
    I installed a set of H&R Springs two months ago and WOW - not cheap when you employ a mechanic to install them but REALLY worth it. They lower the car about 1." overall but most importantly the spring weight and progression is dialed in really well. If road clearance isn't big deal I recommend them. :D
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Yes, my Outlander XLS 2008 had a weak rear suspension spring (coil). This was improved with the Outlander GT 2010. The Outlander GT 2012 has stronger suspension spring and it stands much heavy cargo.

    Right & left rear suspension spring (coil) has part#4140A187 at a price $78 each. It may prove better choice than H & R spring.
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 390
    Does anyone know of a less expensive source for the intermediate pipe of a 2007 4WD Outlander? I'm finding the local parts stores don't stock it and the Mitsubishi places online want $750 (discount) compared to about $950 list. I'm about 5 months beyond my 5 yr bumper to bumper and while I've heard certain things get covered longer under "emissions", I don't think this wil (anyone know?). It's part 3 below and bolts in with triangular flanges front and rear. I think the front blob to the whole assembly is a catalytic, but nothing describes it as such.

    image
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 894
    Wow that's pricey, must be a catalyst in there.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    What is wrong with part No 3 in your exhaust? Why do you need to replace it? Is it broken/damaged? Can not be welded? How does it affect your performance? Exhaust gases escape from this part? etc?

    What problem does part No 3 cause?? Did you use poor quality gas?
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 390
    edited February 2013
    There is a large hole at the top of the pipe immediately after what I believe is the catalyst. Unfortunately Mitsubishi has this as one large welded assembly, not separate pieces to be put together, making it custom and expensive. I currently have a soup can held on with hose clamps rendering it totally quiet, but for how long? I don't drive very far each day so the exhaust doesn't totally dry out from start up condensation. 42K miles since fall of 2007.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    OK.
    How did the hole appear in the first place? What is your diagnosis? Was the hole made by corrosion or because you hit the exhaust with something unintentionally while driving?

    If a soup can is able to solve the problem so perhaps you can make it permanently by using a piece of stainless steel pipe (home depot) and using 2-clamps to fix it in place or just use the service of a mechanic welder to do the job.

    However, it is very important to know what caused the exhaust pipe hole in order to apply corrective measurements before the problem happens. My Lexus S300 has 140K miles and the exhaust pipe is still the original.
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 390
    edited February 2013
    Respectfully, it is immaterial that a Lexus with likely a stainless steel exhaust system can last 140K miles.(not surprised) Apples and oranges. This Mitsubishi pipe section is NOT stainless (but should be be for the price). Prior to stainless exhaust systems it is quite common for systems to corrode from inside out in a few years (especially if not driven enough to dry out the condensation (short trips). The large hole is on the top of the pipe (rust through, not from any collision damage). Over time I've had a few heat shield pieces fall off this pipe from cheap spot welds. I'm not impressed with the lack of quality. So rather than delving into how I got here I'm just hoping to find a more reasonably priced replacement (if one exists) Thanks all.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,666
    I would suggest a local exhaust shop, and let them weld a piece in.

    I remember taking my Mazda 323GTX in to the dealer for exhaust work. The service writer looked at it and said, "You don't want to get that fixed here". He directed me to the local place. $300 vs. $950, and that was in 1994.

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  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    I have talked with Mitsubishi car owners with cars older than 2007 (e.g. Montero, Galant) to be told that problems seem to appear in the engine (burning oil or leaking oil) at around 120K-140K miles of use. These problems were quickly solved by replacing the old engine gaskets with new ones. They never mentioned to have an issue with the exhaust pipe. How many Mitsubishi owners of 2007 Outlanders are having this exhaust pipe problem? If there are many more with similar problems then perhaps is worth it to extend the warranty (i.e. 7-year/100,000 mile Anti-Corrosion/Perforation Limited Warranty) if this is feasible and pay a bit more or save $10 per month from the date of the buying of the new vehicle for 5-6 years to buy a new exhaust.

    However, it seems to be true about the short journeys in your Outlanders as a cause for exhaust corrosion. A good rule of thumb could be to take the Outlander for 20 miles ride every 15-day at speed above 65 mph. Please do not get me wrong but your experience with your Outlander is a good indication for other owners to prevent premature exhaust pipe corrosion.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 894
    No problem yet with my '07 Outlander with 63k. Wife's commute is about 7 miles each way. Salty Wisconsin winters, also. I'm guessing most extended warranties won't cover exhaust pipes, not sure about catalyst unit.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,232
    My '99 Galant had no exhaust issues over 10.5 years & 152K miles. I live in the Chicago area so winters bring salted roads and whatnot. The Galant's replacement, a '10 Outlander GT, hasn't had any issues other than a coil throwing a code twice in 3 years/28K miles (dealer's moved it to another cyl & will replace if the error happens again & follows the coil).
  • r8dr8d Posts: 2
    hi everybody,
    im new here and new to outlanders.
    just bought a jan 2009 black outlander, 65000km done. service history shows all services were done right upto 60000km at the same mitsubishi service centre. have had it for about 2 months and all was good,
    until 3 days ago when i start my car, ABS light comes on as well as 4WD with the exclamation mark and the large ABS sign with service required. All the lights stay on, and sometimes when I'm driving, even at 10km/hr the light goes off saying drive slow.
    Wanted to know how bad is it? Is it just a sensor problem or is this really serious.
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 390
    I had an ASC problem that turned out to be and ABS module problem on my 2007. While in my case I could still drive around , I didn't like they originally quoted several weeks to get the part. Luckily it only took 2 weeks to get the module and was replaced while still under the 5 yr bumper to bumper warranty. (don't want to guess how much it would have cost otherwise ) If you go back to article 320 you can pick up the thread. Sure hope it is only a sensor in your case or it's otherwise covered and whatever parts are quickly available. (modules like this should be more readily stocked if so many things depend on them and the replaceable part is the whole module and not a sub assembly)
  • fastgstfastgst Posts: 46
    edited March 2013
    Why not have the exhaust shop fabricate a piece to replace your corroded piping

    That second canister is likely a resonator/inline muffler and not a catalytic convertor.

    It sounds like for $950 you are getting a new catalytic convertor too?

    Even though the mitsubishi builds it as one piece, a shop can cut off right after the cat and make new pipe piece-wise to the muffler. replace the resonator with another one, etc. Check with local emission laws though.
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