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Mitsubishi Outlander Maintenance and Repair

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  • ricco1ricco1 Posts: 2
    I bought it January 18, 2007. Its a black Outlander XLS with the luxury package.
  • solowalkersolowalker Posts: 118
    I took out the OEM black floor mats and used them as a template to cut a bunch of new ones from some very high quality medium grey berber carpet that my neighbor had left over from his re-carpet of his condo....Now, when one gets stained with oil or dog crap, I'll just put in a new one each time I need to....
    Later, when I trade this Outtie in, I'll just put the new "black originals" back in to give it that "well taken care of" look.
    COST?......$0.00 ..... :D
    TIME?......35 MINUTES.... :)
  • growwisegrowwise Posts: 297
    I tried to find the location of oil filter and I couldnt find it readily. I am assuming its a canister and not a cartridge one. I gave up as soon as my belly was about to touch the undercarriage. :blush:

    I dont know where it is hiding but want to know if a wix filter or Amsoil Eao filter has enough room in there. I have a feeling that the standard ones are too small. Besides, when I switch to Amsoil, I'd like to upgrade the filter as well..

    I found the following that maybe of interest to you folks
    Oil
    https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/xlm.aspx
    Ea Filter
    https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/detail.aspx?ID=6904
    Wix Filter
    http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=51356

    BTW, when I was down there, I was very surprised as to how rugged it is. :) Drive axle to the rear differential is robust.
  • gene_vgene_v Posts: 235
    see msg 79 for oil filter location
  • growwisegrowwise Posts: 297
    My guess is that it is visible. Its a canister type so shouldn't require removing anything to get at it, much less a skid plate itself. On an interesting note, I've been fed a bunch of lies from various mitsu dealers. One guy says changing your own oil will void the warranty. Another says using a bigger oil filter will do the same. All the while, others in same dealerships say that it is perfectly fine to do either. Something to do with Magnuson-Moss act. Personally, cant wait to get rid of the crappy oil and filter and replace them with quality stuff.
  • lmchenlmchen Posts: 9
    I did change my oil filter last week. (Around 2500 miles. I like the first one to be quick after a round up then settle into 5000 next round.)
    The oil filter is right behind the radiator almost in the center of the whole engine. Parallel to the ground.
    (A nice touch on Outies for a small stainless drain below the filter to allow the oil from filter to drain out away from engine.)
    I get the filters (6 packs) from Mitsu's dealership where I bought my car, Nice folks. I did ask for the special oil filter ranch for exact fit but unfortunately they don't carry them.
    To my surprise, my donated 88 Acura Integra's "new" Honda oil filter ranch fit perfectly. (Honda went through from the bigger size oil filter to new tiny size filter on me 2 years ago.)
    I got mine special fitted oil filter socket from Acura parts department 2 years ago. If I remember correctly, it is around $18 or so. (Help yourself, bring a Outies filter to test it before you buy it.)
    With the exact matching socket, 3/8 Ratchet, I got to work. (I am too lazy to remove the plastic cover -- even though it on the way... But I am small anyway :D )
    Even with the exact tools, it is still very tight.
    I have to say, took the first oil filter out is a b**ch :mad: . IMHO, Mitsu factory probably over tighten the filter a bit. The exact socket can't take the thing out, it only allow you to tighten it up with *proper* force. That's OK. Go back to my tool box, I took out my utilmate tool.(That one most Auto part shop sell you that you turn the thing it tighten more with the direction you go with the teeth at the end that *really* bite into the oil filter something puncher the filter). Once it is out, some oil will drip to the plastic cover that I was too lazy to take out. :P )
    You can picture this since the filter is on the middle of engine block, I was under the car with my arm almost fully extend out to unscrew the oil filter. I could use another hand to hold a cup under the drip funnel--OK.,OK I am lazy.
    After that everything is smooth sail. :shades:

    HTH -Ming
  • growwisegrowwise Posts: 297
    Thanks for the info. Do you know where exactly a jackstand needs to be for lift? Is it the big beefy control arm or the body itself?
  • lmchenlmchen Posts: 9
    I used ramps when I change the oil since our driveway is sloped.
    That's said, with my luck, my wife just so happened to have our car the rear tired punctured which I had to put on a spare tire with a jack stand. :sick:
    I did look up the menu and put a jack stand for the spare, (on the end of the book emergency section for replace the spare tire.) If you have 2 jack stands, you can lift it up there. Ditto location when Discount Tire company lift my car up to put in the new tire yesterday :cry:.

    BTW, this is my first car with tire pressure sensor. I now know that when the tire first put in, that "flat tire" warning won't go away till 5 minutes after I had drove off the tire company parking lot.
  • lucymolucymo Posts: 13
    I have had my 2005 Outlander for just over a month now. It has 27K miles on it, I put a thousand miles on it already. It hasn't had any problems since I bought it, until today. I was driving about 20 m/h in traffic, when the car jerked twice, then drove another 30 feet, and the engine simply died. The lights remained lit. The oil and battery indicators came on. I turned off the engine, started it again, all indicators came on as usual, the car was running as usual. Drove it back home without problems (a couple of miles) since I wasn't sure it was going to make the rest of the 25 mile trip. The car had a full tank of gas.

    Already made an appt with a dealer, but I was wondering if anybody might have an idea or point me in the right direction as to what I may attribute the problem to.
  • ken4nyken4ny Posts: 40
    The owner manuel said that no excessive crazy driving for the first 300 miles. My Outie just passed it yesterday. The question is should I get the oil change now to get rid of the dirt or wait for the schedule oil change at 7500 miles? I'm taking the SUV for vacation next week. About 250 miles one way.
  • solowalkersolowalker Posts: 118
    My first change will be at 7500 miles....

    If it's good enough for Mitsu Corp.....It's good enough for me....

    100,000 mile warranty....
  • rcpaxrcpax Posts: 580
    Me, I just went with the schedule in the manual, that is 3000mi to the first oil change in the severe schedule.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,940
    The oil wars are always entertaining. :) Here's a recent blog by Karl:

    Oil's Slippery Slope: My Advice -- Stop Wasting It!

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • ken4nyken4ny Posts: 40
    Steve, Rcpax and Solowalker, thank you for the advices and info. I'm going with the manual's recommendation - 7500 miles. I was babying my Outie and now I can take advantage of the power and handling. :shades:
  • growwisegrowwise Posts: 297
    Can someone tell me where the oil drain bolt is on 07 outie? and what socket will fit?

    I saw a black pan and black drain bolt but not sure if its the right one as its sitting front right.
  • gene_vgene_v Posts: 235
    I picked up my Outlander on Friday 23 March and drove 71 miles. Parked it in garage and went on a trip Saturday March 24. Returned April 2 and tried to start the car. Dead Battery. So I started charging the battery. Got it started and the yellow check engine service light was on and a light indicated airbags were not on. Called the Dealer (service)and and he said that the battery needs a full charge for the lights to come off. The service also said that the car needs to be started frequently and this will happen when left without a start. What do you think?
  • biscuit_xlsbiscuit_xls Posts: 194
    Sometimes the cars sit in the showroom and people use the Nav and stereo to the point where it kills the battery. If yours was that low it could need a full charge or the battery could have been damaged.

    Either way, your battery shouldn't die on a new vehicle. If it doesn't hold a charge after you charge it up, then the dealer has to make it right.
  • gene_vgene_v Posts: 235
    I took it to the dealer. I had charged the battery for 4 hours. The check service light was still on. The battery checked out as OK. But the car was in "limp home" mode. They reset it. The computer diagnostics said all other things were ok. I am wondering if I left the car ignition in accessory position. It would account for draining the battery. One of the drawbacks of the fast key. With an older type ignition you can't get the key out in accessory position.

    Oui Ve!
  • lucymolucymo Posts: 13
    The car checked out fine, no codes.

    Beware - there is a recall on 2005 Outlanders - on a cooling fan. Dealer replaced it.
  • rcpaxrcpax Posts: 580
    You should still get a visual and audio warning then in that case.I wouldn't say its a drawback of keyless ignition because it has a warning mechanism. I guess technology couldn't help you if you're careless.
  • growwisegrowwise Posts: 297
    It once happened to me. I knew something was not right but thats only because I was in my garage. I figured it out later...

    Technology is there to help people but there needs to be some backup plan like cutting out automatically after an interval to preserve battery life. I can imagine if you parked in a noisy area, then the audio chime may not work.
  • gene_vgene_v Posts: 235
    I agree! It was carelessness/or ignorance on my part. Tough lesson.
  • rcpaxrcpax Posts: 580
    Well I thought there should be a cut-off mechanism for the battery in that scenario. I know for a fact that if you've left the lights on after leaving the car, it gets shut-off after a few minutes, just don't know if the same applies if you've left the ignition at ACC position. The manual only says not to leave the ignition switch to "ON" for a long period of time with the engine off, that it could actually drain the battery down.

    In this scenario, IMO, there is no way for the vehicle's computer to tell if (1) you wanted the car on ACC (e.g. waiting for wife at parking lot listening to radio), or (2) you have left it on that position by accident. If I'm in scenario (1), I certainly do not want the computer to cut off the power while I'm listening to the radio. If it's scenario (2) then it would have been desirable for the car's computer to shut off the power. I guess they have not made the Outlander that intelligent yet.
  • pricebropricebro Posts: 9
    Hi all,

    This is a cool forum that I get tons of info about '07 Outlander. Thanks to all of the inputs, I almost made up my mind to go get it after I spent 2 days reading most of the posts about this model.

    The only thing I am not too sure about is Mitsubishi's service in Canada. My friend who bought a Lancer in 2003 told me that he was really pissed up by Mitsu's service. I myself sent 2 emails to Mitsubishi Canada inquiring about the 2007 Outlander info, but never got any feedback, not even an electronically generated "response email". :mad:

    I am a little concerned. Warranty is longer but it doesn't mean good. I also expect better service. Anyone can talk about the service you experience from Mitsu's service centre? :)

    Thanks!
  • dodo2dodo2 Posts: 496
    So far I could only speak about sales experience, which in my case was good. No personal experience about service, but I plan to go to the same dealership bought the car from, which received good reviews from some local Mitsu owners on another forum. I'm in GTA and there are few dealerships here to chose from.
  • pricebropricebro Posts: 9
    Thanks dodo2, I live in Ottawa. Looks outlander is very rare to be seen here. At least in the past month, I have seen none. Canadian market follows US. If the sales bump up there, we will see more here for sure.

    We only have 2 dealers here plus 1 in Quebec side. The one I went to test drive is a brand new one but the owner owns a few more dealerships of other brand names in the city. They can offer about $1800 discount. But their PDI (excluded from the delivery charge which is listed online) & admin fee add up to C$1000 which I think is unreasonable. Did you get any discount in Toronto?

    I have a friend who works in Mitsu Japan, and highly recommended this SUV to me. (That`s the reason I started my research). He told me that this SUV had the ability to compete head-to-head with RAV4 in Japan. From last yearMitsu started new aggressive strategy and significant changes to get their share in NA market. They pay a lot of attention to the feedback and eager to make changes. So I hope this helps raise the level of their service and quality.
  • gene_vgene_v Posts: 235
    Does anyone know where the micron air purifier is located?
    I have scoured the manual with no luck. I wa stold that it was in the passenger side interior.
  • biscuit_xlsbiscuit_xls Posts: 194
    I think it's behind the lower passenger side glove box. There are some tabs that allow the glove box to swing down for access.
  • dodo2dodo2 Posts: 496
    I got mine for about $800 over the invoice price, all dealer charges in. It also included the labor for accessories installation. Not a super-deal, but decent for the circumstances.
    Give it few more months and real deals could be had. Personally, I couldn't wait longer.
  • what's the recommended fuel for the LS 2WD? is there something wrong with using a high grade fuel?
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