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Nissan Xterra Maintenance and Repair

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  • My 2002 xterra tail light fuse keeps blowing. Any suggestions on where to start with repairs?? I've already tried replacing them eight times, and no matter what's on or off, it keeps blowing within 2 minutes after replacing the fuse. Help!!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    Fuses blow out because too much electrical current is flowing through them and that is usually the result of a short circuit. You will need to check the wiring and you may also want to inspect the tail lights as well for possible defects.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • I checked the tail light and even removed them. The fuse still blows out. It's very strange, the fuse is fine for 2 or three minutes then blows without moving anything. The tail light fuse is for the tail lights, instrument panel backlight and light beeper to signal that the lights are still on. I'll disconnect the dimmer switch next to see if it's the problem.
  • I found the problem. The left marker light was also on the circuit. The wire for it runs between a metal support bracket and the plastic fender piece vibrates in the wind. After 5 years the wire jacket wore through. I found it by inserting a 15 amp resetable breaker in place of the fuse and moved wires until I heard the sparking wire by the left front fender. Saved $150 the dealer would have charged a minimum.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    I'm glad you got that resolved!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • How do you change the brakes on a Nissan Xterra? :D
  • I recently purchased a 2007 Xterra that I have only had for about a week. I noticed that when the vehicle is, for instance, coasting down a hill, if I press on the gas, there is a clunk type of noise that comes from the rear end. Is this a normal noise associated with the driveshaft or does this sound like something else?
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    I don't own a supercharged Xterra, but have read posts from owners of older supercharged Frontiers and some posts report mileage in the 17 to 16 MPG range. You might want to check the owner's manual to see what kind of fuel it requires as supercharged and turbo vehicles sometimes require premium gas, which will hurt your wallet even more. Oh, try and locate the knock sensors -- are they easy to access if you need to replace? Good luck in your purchase.
  • dtombdtomb Posts: 1
    I have the same problem too. I just got my 2000 X out of the shop yesterday - and I wish I could tell you what the problem is. My mechanic replaced the dryer (twice), the ambient air temp sensor, and even checked the emmissions computer. My problem is the fan comes on (and thus the compressor) when the car is cool - but when it gets warm, even in the sun, the fan goes in and out. I have found that highway driving will get it finally going, and when it does, it cools fine. My mechanic also said he can jumper it to kick the fan on and get it going, but that cannot be the permanent fix. I had the HP hose blow a few years ago and nothing but a recharge since until now. I have 102k miles on mine and still need it but I can't sweat this one out too long.
  • Yes yes! This is what I'm talking about to... My X has this same clunk noise when I step on the gas from coasting mode... it makes a clunk noise like if the gears were engaging... I wonder what it is.. but can't check right now... because my curtain airbags deployed just driving in simple mud... and my car is at the dealer for over a month now... Nissan America (corporate) still hasn't replied..!!!! the car is nice overall, but if you get a defective one like mine, Nissan never responds!!!
  • I finally figured out what causes the noise. Buried deep in the car information booklet, it states that the overdrive function is automatically engaged everytime the vehicle is started in order to increase gas mileage. When driving at slow speeds, it will cause the clunk. This can be disabled by pressing a small button located on the shifter, just below the large button that is pressed to change gears. The book even acknowledges the problem and makes it sound like the noise is normal, but the sound and jerk felt when it occurs makes one wonder why the function is automatically engaged on the vehicle.
  • Ok....I have been searching this for 2 months now....I have the same thing...they put a new differential in my 07, front to rear, because the Nissan Hotline told them to do that...The new one does it too...AND I drove an 08 with the same thing. Can you tell me what page this is on in the manual???? I still believe that if you have noise like that, and metal on metal, over a period of time, it will cause problems with the gears.
  • It should be on page 5-15.
  • Thanks!!!! I tried it last night and didn't hear any noise.....what was funny to me was the fact that no one in the service department knew that, or at least tried to figure it out!!! Thanks again for the info....it really had me concerned!!!
  • Yeah, I had bought mine a couple of months ago, and it really worried me. I looked for weeks on the internet before I found the information deep in the recesses of the manual. I can't believe the service department didn't know this though...that really makes one feel confident in having them work on a vehicle.
  • Hey all. Brand new here-waaaay up in Northern Canada. I have a 2000 xterra, and have had no problems with it before today. Driving on the highway and it just died! The engine turns over and it wants to start, but it sounds like the engine is starving for fuel, and it rumbles and dies again. I think its the fuel pump, but I cant find the spot on the line to tap into to find out if there is pressure. Had someone turn the ignition on, and I cant hear thee pump kick in, but I'd rather make sure before I take out the back seat and put in a new fuel pump. Any one with any experience with fuel line/pump issues on these trucks? Any input is appreciated.
  • I'm sorry, someone posts on here that their Xterra almost melted down and wanted to know what the problem was and I suggested taking it to a dealer because it was something that was a little more serious than a rattle under the dash or a light that won't go out, SILLY ME!!!!! Maybe if someone can't afford to take their vehicle in to be taken care of, then maybe that person shouldn't have their vehicle on the road? They are not only a danger to themselves, but to EVERYONE on the road that is in that vehicles’ vicinity. Maybe, if people who can't afford to take care of their vehicles, kept said vehicle off the road, then maybe we wouldn't have so many accidents????? Why should I have to put my life at risk because someone doesn't want to shell out the money it takes to take care of their vehicle? Driving is a PRIVILEDGE not a RIGHT, but I have the RIGHT to be safe from you. If you buy a vehicle, you are not only buying the vehicle, but you’re buying the RESPONSIBILITY to take care of that vehicle, and if you can’t do it, than you should either figure out a way to make more money, or get rid of the vehicle. If you don’t clean your chimney for 5 years do you put a fire in the fireplace? If you’re crazy and want to burn down the house you do. If you can’t afford to clean the chimney, than don’t put logs in the fireplace! But hey, that’s just me; I must be crazy to accept the responsibility that comes with owning a car. I guess you shouldn’t buy car insurance either if you can’t afford to go to a car dealer, convoluted logic if you axe me.
  • New to this site as well! also from Canada. I had a problem like yours, the truck started to stall out until i was able to pull it over, then it felt like it was running out of gas. I had to have it towed to the garage, he had it for 2 days and figured it was the distributor cap, so he replaced it. the truck seem to work fine for 2 days then started doing the same thing. This time the truck didn't stall out but i had to stay on the gas until i got home. he suggested that the distributor was damp and needed to dry out, so i took the cap off and kept a heat gun on it for about 2 hours put it back together seemed fine until the end of the day slowing down at a light it started stalling out again. It seems like there is a lack of fuel getting in. any thoughts out there?
  • kucikkucik Posts: 5
    The problem wasn't the fuel pump, it was distributor coils failure. I had the same problem this summer with my Xterra 2000. This is the first time it had happened. It slowly died on the road. When you parked and let the coil discharged, then I can run for few miles and then shut down again. I ended up take my Xterra to the shop and they replaced the distributor coil, the whole coil, Not the cheap way by replacing just only the cap. If you want to keep your vehicle for a long time, you should replaced it with the high performance coil, which will cost you around $550.00 or more. The cheap one will cost about $350.00 and it probably last few years. You can not do it by yourself unless you have a timing gun and know how to set the timing. Good luck. :shades:
  • kucikkucik Posts: 5
    I believe your distributor coil is act up and about to go bad. I recently my 2000 Xterra. The engine started to missing and then lost its power and died. When I parked for few hours, the coil discharged and I can drive for few miles. My solution was, install new high performance distributor coil. This will last a long time, instead of replacing with the cheap one. :shades:
  • Thanks guys! took it to the garage this morning, and sure enough it died in the parking lot... Its funny when you tell them what the problem is, and they always responed with " thats what I thought" Ive never used a form before but from now on any problems that arise, I'll be sure to check with you guys first! :shades:
  • Hello. I have an '07 SE 4 X 4 with 6600 miles on it. I have noticed some quirks, most of which pertain to noises that I hear that appear to be coming from the rear of the vehicle. First, when the vehicle has not been run for a while (regardless of outside temperature), I hear a noise that sounds very similar to the noise created when you drive over a sewer cover. This happens only once each time, but consisently occurs when the car shifts from first to second gear. To my recollection, this happens in both 2 and 4 wheel drive. The second issue that I am having is when the vehicle's tires are slipping due to low traction in the ice/snow. I hear a sort of "grinding" noise in both 2 and 4 wheel drive. This issue may be related to the first one, but I have yet to determine. The third and final issue is more recent. My trip computer is reading excessively low mileage (i.e. 11-12 mpg). This occurs during both city and highway driving. Like I said, this just starting occurring very recently. I've attempted to reset with no luck. Prior to this, I was getting between 18-21 mpg. I am currently in the process of calculating actual mileage, but I am curious to know if anyone else has encountered this. Any comments would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks,

    Corey
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    Not sure about the trip computer - mine is not equipped with one, but the first two issues are normal. The noise that comes when you start driving is, according to the manual, the self-check of the VDC system. The noise that you hear when Anti Slip system kicks in is just the way it works. First time it happened to me i almost jumped out of the car and the more the system has to compensate for slipping wheels the more noise you'll hear.
  • kucikkucik Posts: 5
    Here are some info. from another post I found online. I also have AC problem and I am 100 percent sure that is the route cause of AC problem:

    I have a 2002 Frontier V6 automatic with 74000 miles and had intermittent AC problems after replacing the AC compressor and bad high pressure hose. The AC would work fine for short periods of time then nothing. Living in Florida, I needed to find a fix for my AC problem. The solution was hard to find. But I had to replace the thermal control amplifier (http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=27675-92000) which is located in the wiring harness behind the glove box. Part costs about $30 and it took about 15 minutes to install it. Now my AC works great.

    There are 3 screws on the back side of it that are incredibly hard to get to. Even after you get to them the box still won't open all the way, but it'll open enough for you to pull out the therm and install the new part.

    Tips:

    1. Use a long screwdriver to get to the screws (the 3 screws are literally an inch from the floor board)

    2. Have a magnetic screw driver. I couldn't put one of the screws back in because of such tight space.

    3. If there is no hope of taking or (or putting back) the screws on the backside, as a female or a child to do it for you. They will most likely have smaller hands and can get to it easier (My girlfriend had to take one out for me)

    4. After the part is replaced, give the car a shot of 134. I live in Jacksonville Florida, and after replacing the part and giving it some 134, my AC is almost too cold (No complaints)...

    Just taking out the Glove compartment wouldn’t do it. The sensor is stuck in the fins of the evaporator (the thermal sensor has two parts the sensor and the plug. Plug is on the lower left corner behind the glove box. This is visible once you remove the glove box.). The evaporator is inside a black casing that houses the cooling system. Had a hard time getting this open. Once this is open you are almost done.

    I to have the intermittent AC problem where the compressor clutch may or may not engage. I found that the infamous Thermo Control Amplifier failure mode can be tested by shorting the two blue wires on the female connector on the outside of the evaporator box. Disconnect the connector from the wires that run into the box, with the red, white and black wires. If your clutch is not engaged, short the wires and see if the clutch engages. Good chance this indicates that it is indeed the thermo control amplifier that is defective. At least this might keep some from replacing this very difficult to replace part if it is not indeed the issue. Would be interested on input on this from others.
  • mcrisomcriso Posts: 3
    16K miles battery registers 12.97V, posts and terminals are clean, lights and all accessories work but the engine doesn't turn over. I don't even hear a click in the starter.

    any ideas ?
  • Corey I have the same shift sound between 1st and 2nd gear only when I take it out of PARK and put it in drive, never hear it otherwise. I have a 2007 Xterra auto with around 3000 miles on it and get 16-17 mpg. Hear the same traction and grinding feel on the brake pedal in thick snow or ice. I am not concerned about the traction sound on snow, I think it is the ABLS or ABS system doing its job, but in a noisy and less refined way. Have not taken it in to the dealer yet to inquire about the shift sound. Any suggestions from anyone will be helpful.

    Thanks.
  • adamv1adamv1 Posts: 1
    All the other ones work (1,3,4) but for some reason #2 died. I kinda heard it's a switch/fuse somewhere that controls it but I have no clue where to look or how to do it.
  • kucikkucik Posts: 5
    Did you check your starter unit? It sounds like you possibility have a defective starter. You can check if your starter pulls an amp in it. Also check the fuse or relay associated with starter and check the connectors too. if you are going to work on it, you can take a starter out and check if it will turn when applying 12Vdc on it. if it turning, then possibility your starter is good. But, better off take it to autozone or auto supply to have them check it. Then you can move on to other possible causes, cables, connections, loose wires, etc. I hope this gives you some ideas. good luck.
  • mcrisomcriso Posts: 3
    Thanks for your reply. those ideas were going to be my next step, but called the dealer and it ended up being still under warranty so i brought it in and the problem was just a clutch switch(depress clutch to start). Apparently the switch got dislodged or broken.
    a simple fix otherwise i would have followed all your ideas.

    I hope this helps out other xterra owners.

    cheers !
  • deramoderamo Posts: 2
    I can't find how to replace the marker light to my 2002 nissan xterra? Does anyone know how to change the light blub?
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