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Nissan Xterra Maintenance and Repair

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  • My 2002 xterra tail light fuse keeps blowing. Any suggestions on where to start with repairs?? I've already tried replacing them eight times, and no matter what's on or off, it keeps blowing within 2 minutes after replacing the fuse. Help!!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Fuses blow out because too much electrical current is flowing through them and that is usually the result of a short circuit. You will need to check the wiring and you may also want to inspect the tail lights as well for possible defects.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • I checked the tail light and even removed them. The fuse still blows out. It's very strange, the fuse is fine for 2 or three minutes then blows without moving anything. The tail light fuse is for the tail lights, instrument panel backlight and light beeper to signal that the lights are still on. I'll disconnect the dimmer switch next to see if it's the problem.
  • I found the problem. The left marker light was also on the circuit. The wire for it runs between a metal support bracket and the plastic fender piece vibrates in the wind. After 5 years the wire jacket wore through. I found it by inserting a 15 amp resetable breaker in place of the fuse and moved wires until I heard the sparking wire by the left front fender. Saved $150 the dealer would have charged a minimum.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    I'm glad you got that resolved!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • How do you change the brakes on a Nissan Xterra? :D
  • I recently purchased a 2007 Xterra that I have only had for about a week. I noticed that when the vehicle is, for instance, coasting down a hill, if I press on the gas, there is a clunk type of noise that comes from the rear end. Is this a normal noise associated with the driveshaft or does this sound like something else?
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    I don't own a supercharged Xterra, but have read posts from owners of older supercharged Frontiers and some posts report mileage in the 17 to 16 MPG range. You might want to check the owner's manual to see what kind of fuel it requires as supercharged and turbo vehicles sometimes require premium gas, which will hurt your wallet even more. Oh, try and locate the knock sensors -- are they easy to access if you need to replace? Good luck in your purchase.
  • dtombdtomb Posts: 1
    I have the same problem too. I just got my 2000 X out of the shop yesterday - and I wish I could tell you what the problem is. My mechanic replaced the dryer (twice), the ambient air temp sensor, and even checked the emmissions computer. My problem is the fan comes on (and thus the compressor) when the car is cool - but when it gets warm, even in the sun, the fan goes in and out. I have found that highway driving will get it finally going, and when it does, it cools fine. My mechanic also said he can jumper it to kick the fan on and get it going, but that cannot be the permanent fix. I had the HP hose blow a few years ago and nothing but a recharge since until now. I have 102k miles on mine and still need it but I can't sweat this one out too long.
  • Yes yes! This is what I'm talking about to... My X has this same clunk noise when I step on the gas from coasting mode... it makes a clunk noise like if the gears were engaging... I wonder what it is.. but can't check right now... because my curtain airbags deployed just driving in simple mud... and my car is at the dealer for over a month now... Nissan America (corporate) still hasn't replied..!!!! the car is nice overall, but if you get a defective one like mine, Nissan never responds!!!
  • I finally figured out what causes the noise. Buried deep in the car information booklet, it states that the overdrive function is automatically engaged everytime the vehicle is started in order to increase gas mileage. When driving at slow speeds, it will cause the clunk. This can be disabled by pressing a small button located on the shifter, just below the large button that is pressed to change gears. The book even acknowledges the problem and makes it sound like the noise is normal, but the sound and jerk felt when it occurs makes one wonder why the function is automatically engaged on the vehicle.
  • Ok....I have been searching this for 2 months now....I have the same thing...they put a new differential in my 07, front to rear, because the Nissan Hotline told them to do that...The new one does it too...AND I drove an 08 with the same thing. Can you tell me what page this is on in the manual???? I still believe that if you have noise like that, and metal on metal, over a period of time, it will cause problems with the gears.
  • It should be on page 5-15.
  • Thanks!!!! I tried it last night and didn't hear any noise.....what was funny to me was the fact that no one in the service department knew that, or at least tried to figure it out!!! Thanks again for the info....it really had me concerned!!!
  • Yeah, I had bought mine a couple of months ago, and it really worried me. I looked for weeks on the internet before I found the information deep in the recesses of the manual. I can't believe the service department didn't know this though...that really makes one feel confident in having them work on a vehicle.
  • Hey all. Brand new here-waaaay up in Northern Canada. I have a 2000 xterra, and have had no problems with it before today. Driving on the highway and it just died! The engine turns over and it wants to start, but it sounds like the engine is starving for fuel, and it rumbles and dies again. I think its the fuel pump, but I cant find the spot on the line to tap into to find out if there is pressure. Had someone turn the ignition on, and I cant hear thee pump kick in, but I'd rather make sure before I take out the back seat and put in a new fuel pump. Any one with any experience with fuel line/pump issues on these trucks? Any input is appreciated.
  • I'm sorry, someone posts on here that their Xterra almost melted down and wanted to know what the problem was and I suggested taking it to a dealer because it was something that was a little more serious than a rattle under the dash or a light that won't go out, SILLY ME!!!!! Maybe if someone can't afford to take their vehicle in to be taken care of, then maybe that person shouldn't have their vehicle on the road? They are not only a danger to themselves, but to EVERYONE on the road that is in that vehicles’ vicinity. Maybe, if people who can't afford to take care of their vehicles, kept said vehicle off the road, then maybe we wouldn't have so many accidents????? Why should I have to put my life at risk because someone doesn't want to shell out the money it takes to take care of their vehicle? Driving is a PRIVILEDGE not a RIGHT, but I have the RIGHT to be safe from you. If you buy a vehicle, you are not only buying the vehicle, but you’re buying the RESPONSIBILITY to take care of that vehicle, and if you can’t do it, than you should either figure out a way to make more money, or get rid of the vehicle. If you don’t clean your chimney for 5 years do you put a fire in the fireplace? If you’re crazy and want to burn down the house you do. If you can’t afford to clean the chimney, than don’t put logs in the fireplace! But hey, that’s just me; I must be crazy to accept the responsibility that comes with owning a car. I guess you shouldn’t buy car insurance either if you can’t afford to go to a car dealer, convoluted logic if you axe me.
  • New to this site as well! also from Canada. I had a problem like yours, the truck started to stall out until i was able to pull it over, then it felt like it was running out of gas. I had to have it towed to the garage, he had it for 2 days and figured it was the distributor cap, so he replaced it. the truck seem to work fine for 2 days then started doing the same thing. This time the truck didn't stall out but i had to stay on the gas until i got home. he suggested that the distributor was damp and needed to dry out, so i took the cap off and kept a heat gun on it for about 2 hours put it back together seemed fine until the end of the day slowing down at a light it started stalling out again. It seems like there is a lack of fuel getting in. any thoughts out there?
  • kucikkucik Posts: 5
    The problem wasn't the fuel pump, it was distributor coils failure. I had the same problem this summer with my Xterra 2000. This is the first time it had happened. It slowly died on the road. When you parked and let the coil discharged, then I can run for few miles and then shut down again. I ended up take my Xterra to the shop and they replaced the distributor coil, the whole coil, Not the cheap way by replacing just only the cap. If you want to keep your vehicle for a long time, you should replaced it with the high performance coil, which will cost you around $550.00 or more. The cheap one will cost about $350.00 and it probably last few years. You can not do it by yourself unless you have a timing gun and know how to set the timing. Good luck. :shades:
  • kucikkucik Posts: 5
    I believe your distributor coil is act up and about to go bad. I recently my 2000 Xterra. The engine started to missing and then lost its power and died. When I parked for few hours, the coil discharged and I can drive for few miles. My solution was, install new high performance distributor coil. This will last a long time, instead of replacing with the cheap one. :shades:
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