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Nissan Versa Maintenance Schedule and Questions



  • tat2zbyqtat2zbyq Posts: 3
    I wouldn't have bought this car had I known it was made in mexico NOT because it was made by mexicans but beacuse I feel it is WRONG in every way that these companies send stuff to mexico to be built in sweat factories for very little money while we here in the US then have to pay full price for it just like they payed someone here a fair wage to build it. THANX NAFTA
  • bomartbomart Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2008 Versa SL HB in 2/08. First oil change at 3,700 miles by the dealer was free. No where in the owner's manual does it state what Nissan filter to use. FYI, it's a 1520865F0C. At 8,500 miles I changed the oil and filter and used a Fram PH6607 filter + 4 quarts 5W/30 oil. Nissan suggests changing oil and filter every 3,750 miles, but I believe for normal driving every 5,000 miles is sufficient. You can also use a Fram TG6607, DG6607; Puralator PL14612, or Walmart's Super Tech ST6607 filter.
    I like Fram filters because their textured Sure Grip end makes it easier to install in tight places, like on the Versa.
    These filters are small so you are probably going to have to purchase a new 65/67 mm cap filter wench. Walmart sells a hard plastic one for ~$2.50 that fits perfectly with a 3/8" socket wrench.
    The filter is not that hard to change. It took me about 40 mintes to change the oil and filter. If you look straight down from the oil dipstick you can see it from the top. It's easier to remove it from the bottom.
    Make sure the car is in park with the handbrake on fully and jack the car up on the front passenger side high enough to get a jack stand under it. Put a chock under the left front wheel. Never crawl under a car with just the jack holding it up.
    There is a black plastic shroud on the bottom that partially blocks the filter. Place a rag on top of the plastic shroud just under the filter to catch dripping oil from the filter. Reach around the edge of the shroud and attach the cap wrench and socket wrench to the filter. There is enough room to easily loosen the filter. Remove the filter from the bottom past the shroud. Try to keep the filter hole up so oil does not drip on you. Put a thin film of oil on the rubber gasket of the new filter. If your hand is long enough you can install it from the bottom, but I found it easier to place the new filter on the top edge of the shroud and reach down from the top and grab it and install it. I wore a latex glove for a surer grip on the filter. The Sure Grip end of the Fram filter and the latex glove makes it easier to get enough torque to install it hand tight plus.
  • I have my oil changed at my dealership. It is about 30$ . However, they consider me a returning customer and give me a 10% discount. They also have an email and send me reminders of when to change my oil. They then also do things out of courtesy since I am a returning customer. Find out which Nissan dealership in your area does this. I go to one in Manchester CT.
  • I just finished a "first time" Versa oil change. Piece of cake. DO THIS:

    Jack up the passenger's side just a bit, no need to elevate it much as only your arm needs to go under the engine.

    Loosen the oil drain plug with a 14mm box-end wrench and drain into your container

    While the oil is draining, remove the four 10mm splash guard bolts BUT NOT THE SPLASH GUARD.

    Pull the splash guard down (it's very flexible) and grab the oil filter with your nitrile-gloved hand (these thin latex gloves give you all the grip you need) and loosen the oil filter about a quarter turn.

    Replace the oil drain plug and snug it tight.

    Place a triple layer of good paper towling (Bounty, etc) on top of the splash guard beneath the oil filter and reposition your oil catch container.

    Back out the oil filter until it starts to leak, catching as much oil on the absorbent towling as possible and letting the rest go into the container.

    Remove the old filter and replace with a new one (I used a Fram 6607) -- don't forget to oil the gasket.

    Wipe up any oil drips from the splash guard and replace the four 10mm bolts.

    Add 4 qts 5w30 and check for leaks.
  • My 2008 versa owners manual states to change oil every three months.
    i drive mostly short trips in new york state. This sounds a little often to me.
    I only drive 5000 miles a year so i get my oil changed according to time not miles.
    I can see this in the winter, but in the warmer months this seems to often.
    what are you thoughts?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Old recommendations (before the better quality oils now adays, and the tighter clearance engines), would be every 3K miles. You could easily do once a year, but personally I'd do twice a year. An oil change is very cheap compared to engine replacments. Low mileage is not the greatest for engines, if they don't get the opportunity to warm up in winters and burn off any condensation. I'd get that oil out in the spring, then again change it in the fall.
  • The Nissan owners manual says to wash underside of car after winter driving on salted roads. How can this be done?
    My only idea would be to take the car to a do it your self car wash and use the high pressure hand held wand to spray the underside of the car. But, the pressure is very high and i am affraid water would be forced into spaces it should not go in to.
    would an ordinary car wash would do.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,682
    Most full-service car washes and many automatic car washes have a high-pressure underbody spray. That is what I use in the winter. My local gas station has an all-cloth automatic car wash with an underbody spray that is relatively cheap and does a good job.
  • I have now owned my Versa for 4 months. A while back my passenger door started making these rattling noises and the window sounded like it was shaking also. So I took it back to Nissan and they told me that inside the door the motor that controls the window was loose and that this caused the problems. I was very happy when I picked it up, but guess what? A few days later I am living with the same problem.
    This is pretty annoying and I know we don't slam the doors. They had it fixed, but I am already wondering why I bought this car. This is the second problem I had with this car within 4 months. Has anyone else experienced any problems with the doors? :(
  • I have a 2007 Nissan Versa SL with the I-Key and my battery seams to be dieing. I have 40,000 miles on it. I want to know if I will have to have my I-Key reprogrammed after I replace the battery.
  • I agree with changing the oil every 6 months even if you don't drive 3k miles in that time.
    I drive 1k miles per month. I used Mobil one synthetic oil in my old car and changed it every 6 months.
    I just bought a Versa 3 days ago. Will use Mobil one in it and go up to 7500 miles or 6 months.
    But for 5000 miles a year synthetic oil would be a waist of money.
  • tyou08tyou08 Posts: 16
    I have a 08 Versa. Does anyone have the direction on replacing the in-cabin air filter? None is written in the owner's manual.

  • rags2rags2 Posts: 4
  • tyou08tyou08 Posts: 16
    Thnaks rags2. I'll try this once I have time.
  • I have the 09 Versa 1.8 L. HB. I looked at the oil filter area. Looks like I will need to remove a few of the bolts holding on the splash guard. Someone on this board said he could reach in with a cap wrench and get it. Wow. Flexible hands and arms, I guess. I bought a Walmart Supertech filter and the Walmart universal cap wrench, which fits pretty well. Whenever it stops raining and I have about an hour and a half of unfettered time ( rare), I'll give it a shot.

    I noticed there are some really tiny and fragile-looking wires on this engine. I'm afraid to touch anything. Might break it. I was trying to get the cap wrench on from above, and my arm was rubbing against those 2 tiny wires going to the alternator. My V8 Chevy was so much nicer to work on, too bad it was a gas hog. :)
  • I just changed the oil and filter. 3,400 miles. The trick is to remove the 4 bolts holding the splash guard on. There are still some other non-removable ( or pita to remove) non-bolt things holding the splashguard on still, but you can bend down the guard, where you have removed the four bolts (easy) and get your arm into the slot, to work on the filter easily. I drove my V up on boards (front tires) to get it off the ground a bit. You don't need a rag, the oil from the filter just runs down onto the guard, and the guard has slots in it to let the oil drain right thru it into your collection pan. The orig nissan filter (made in china) is on tight. I could not get it off by hand only, had to use a cap wrench. I used a Walmart Supertech 6607 filter as the new filter. Its a quarter inch shorter than the Nissan filter. I used 4.75 quarts of 5w30 Supertech oil. Kept receipts for warranty. Cancelled my "free oil change" at the dealer. Now they don't have to touch my cute little V. :) :P :shades:
  • ahc358ahc358 Posts: 1
    Nissan dealer told me this morning that Nissan is extending the warranty coverage on CVT's to 10yr/120,000mi. Call your Nissan dealer because I think Nissan is going to reimburse for past repairs as well. Sounds like their stepping up to address their customer issues with repair cost.
  • neversaneversa Posts: 1
    My a/c compressor is fried w/ just 50,000 miles. The warranty is expired, but the car is only 2 yrs. old. I commute to work, but I take care of my car and have the maintenance done. Now the money I thought I saved on the price of my new car will now cost me nearly 2,000 in repairs. Has anyone else had this happen? My CD player was replaced for malfunctioning before 30,000 miles. Maybe that was an indication of things to come.
  • No Buddy.. I Hope it won't happen..
    Its better you choose some best nissan parts dealer and replace you old one with new original parts!
  • thgearythgeary Posts: 2
    2000 bucks for an AC compressor?? You need to shop around, shouldn't be more than 400 - which is still unacceptable for a 2 year old car - but still. In fact, when you say "fried" it makes me think that it could just be the clutch pulley that is gone, not the whole compressor, which would be even cheaper, only a couple hundred.

    good luck and keep us posted.
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