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Mazda CX-7 Check Engine Light



  • pbear9pbear9 Posts: 2
    Yes, we are ready to file Lemon Law in Virginia. I am taking my CX-7 back in tomorrow for a new computer and knock sensor. It has been in 5 times for acceleration problems. They sent a Mazda tech to Virginia to check mine out. He told me that I was one of 3 that have given such problems. Will be pursuing the replacement.
  • i know nobody has posted on here in awhile... i have the 2008 CX-7 with 14,000 miles on it... it's a little over a year old... the other day, my CEL came on and stayed on... i have an appt with the dealer to bring it in tomorrow... any ideas what it could be? i never got anything about items being recalled... i have had so many problems with this truck and filed it under the lemon... i'm just fed up!
  • I was just surfing through and found that my old post was still here. As a final update, I filed a lemon law complaint and happy to say the Mazda made this lemon go away quickly and handed me a check that was for more than I expected. After 45 days in the service dept in 10 months I was glad to see it gone. Mazda did right by me so I can't complain there but I'll never own another again. I now have a Toyota 4Runner and I'm very happy with it and won't hesitate to purchase another when the time comes. End of story.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,936
    Thanks for the report back!
  • taz6taz6 Posts: 19
    Just started at the 50K mileage mark. When I am accelerating it feels like the car is struggling. Almost pushing and pulling back, but once it is at cruising speed it runs fine. Also fine at idle.
    anyone else experience this before I bring it in for a check.
    Its cold up here in the Northeast and this car has always had more trouble in the cold weather.
  • I had a similar problem after taking the car in for a regular checkup. The dealer recommended replacing spark plugs at this mileage interval, but not essential. I said go ahead. It was only after a day or two when attempting to pass that I discovered the car would not accelerate, but surged forward then lost acceleration again and again. They found that one of the new spark plugs was defective and replaced it. Haven't had the problem again.
  • dogs7dogs7 Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2008 CX7 6 days ago. 36,850 miles. Had the car 2 days and CEL came on I went back to dealership and they still have it. According to them they cannot figure out whats wrong. The code does not lead them to anything. After reading all these I realize this seems to be an issue. Any suggestions on what to do. Also concerned about the A/C issues I have read about. I could not purchase an extended warranty so now very concerned any pre-emptive measures I can take with the service department concerning the A/C. Thanks for any insight you guys can give me.
  • maxfmaxf Posts: 1
    On my Mazda CX7 CEL came on, I read the code at Advance Auto and also took it to the dealership, both were same: Purge valve problem and gas cap. Dealership changed them both. But after another 70 mil CEL came on again and I took it back to dealer again same codes for Purge valve and gas cap. They replaced them again. CEL came on 3rd already and again I took it to the dealer, same codes again. Dealer spent 5 hour looking in to the problem ending up telling me that I have wire shortage in engine compartment. Car is already passed 36,000 which is bumper-to-bumper and service guy told me I need to replace whole wiring under the hood which would be $3000.00 or let them trace-find the broken wire and reconnect it which would be whatever hours it would take technician to find and reconnect the wire( which could be from $100 up to $1000).

    I don’t know if what they are saying is right. I don’t want to fix something that might not even be broken only to come to the point that the CEL would come on again. Does anyone have same problem and does anyone have any suggestions?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,936
    Please don't ask for "personal" help via email. We all benefit when a problem is discussed on the open forum. Thanks.
  • What "personal" help was soliciated?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,936
    It's against our rules to post email or other contact info on the forum. The idea is to post so that other owners can benefit, not take the conversation to email.

    Thanks for understanding.
  • First time (Dec 30 2011) it came on I replaced the EGR valve (posted previous) now again two days ago. Took to Auto Zone and it read P2237
    Definition: Heated oxygen senor - Bank 1 sensor 1 (H02S11) positive current control circuit open.
    Probable cause - 661, open or short circuit condition. 662, H02S11 (bank 1 sensor) faulty

    My 07 GT has 48K currently. Normal for this many miles? Is it a DIY kind of fix for the average person?
  • zoom08zoom08 NYCPosts: 66
    my car has 78K miles. I have done the basic maintenance oil changes, brakes and tires until a month ago when the check engine light came on.
    1 st time the light came on, took it to shop and they told me that the spark plugs and tune up had to be done.
    2 nd time, check engine light comes on during acceleration and car lost power. Code came up as cylinder 1 misfire. (this happen within 10 days of repair) car is currently at shop awating verdict and testing.
    any advice.
  • laurie17laurie17 Posts: 4
    I've got a 2007 Mazda CX-7 Touring with 132K miles. All of the recalls have been fixed, and I'm getting a consistent CEL with code P2006. Went to Autozone and these are what the notes say could be wrong: 1) Disconnected or damaged vacuum hose, 2) Binding VTC actuator, or 3) VTC solenoid malfunction. Any tips on what I should try to fix first? Has this happened to others of you out there? Thanks!
  • zoom08zoom08 NYCPosts: 66
    sell it while you still can walk away
    I went back to the good old reliable Honda accord!
  • zoom08zoom08 NYCPosts: 66
    So on my last posting, i called the dealer, spoke to the shop manager and basically my turbo was in need of replkacement, my engine needed a rebuilt and all this was about $4,500 dollars
    I also had electrical problems and the dealer and mazda customer relations neglected all the problems with my car. I had premature damage of all my cylinders, the CEL detected problems in all my cylinders, the VVT actuator was also damaged and the dealer even question weather I ever did normal oil changes. The list of problems is so long tha tI i gave up, I walked into a Honda dealer and I just got an accord.
    Sure my CX7 was exciting to drive but the maintenance was just ridiculous!
    Now I save gas with my 4 cyl engine even if the car is boring to srive but at least I know Honda stands on the image and their products!
  • jbd1270jbd1270 Posts: 2
    We have an '07 CX7 bought new with 38 miles and have had just about every problem on this board/forum. We are on our 3rd AC system, new tension pulley due to AC seizure bending it, CEL code 401 for EGR valve (dirty/gummed), ABS/TCS lights coming on and off, etc... We are clean across the board for now and have 140K+ miles on this vehicle. The EGR problem seems to stay away if we run premium fuel (Like Shell, good cleaning additives) and Lucas fuel cleaner once or twice a month with gas fill up. Dealers fix is to replace it for $800+. The ABS/TCS lights.......had it looked at and was told maybe ABS module or a sensor blah, blah, blah, but used my local mechanic and found that the brake light switch was malfunctioning. The break lights were not working all the time and caused the lights to come on. Replaced it and no more ABS/TCS lights. Been good for over a month now! I took the old switch apart and found the contacts were dirty in which caused no connection when depressed. The ABS/TCS systems need a signal from this switch to respond properly, if not... then the ABS/TCS lights. If your getting intermitten brake lights then your switch works occasionally and the ABS/TCS system gets just one bad report or lack of report then lights come on and will not reset until you turn car off and then back on again...until another bad report. I cleaned the old switch and it is functional now as well. If you are mechanically inclined might be an option. My mechanic did it for $70 including part. Well worth it since he hooked up the computer to check other things as well. He said the switch might need to be adjusted for your break peddle if replacing new! Good luck!!!
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