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Mazda CX-7 AC problems

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Comments

  • satz24satz24 Posts: 10
    hi all

    could someone describe to me the type of heatshielding and where exactly you installed it, to prevent the heatsoak from turbo and exhaust?

    I tried some flat thin reflective ceramic heat shield directly over the turbo heat shield, but that seemed to make little or no difference at all...

    cheers

    satz
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    But my guess would be this...

    When "underway", traveling, the engine compartment airflow would make the radiant effects, insofar as heating the HVAC intake airflow, pretty much negligable. On the other hand when the vehicle is stopped I could well see that the resulting heat soaking of the firewall would contribute substantially to the overall heating of the intake cabin airflow.

    But I still stand by my solution, block the coolant flow to the water heater core and see if that doesn't alleviate the problem such that it is down to an acceptable level.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    The CX-7's poor FE is a complete turnoff for me, as is the RDX's, but out of curiosity today I went by the dealer and test drove an '08 CX-7.

    Like the RDX I found the center dash/instrument panel too busy/complex.

    There was no fuel computer nor a boost guage, a bit puzzling, that.

    The salesman said that the fuel computer was likely a part of the nav package but the brochure doesn't indicate so.

    The '08 actually had two highly reflective heat shields, both mounted to the firewall. The higher one was clearly intended to reflect the turbo's radiant heat away from the firewall, and the second somewhat larger one was to reflect the catalytic converter's radiant heating effects.

    It didn't appear to me that anything more effective than what was already there would be viable. Maybe a thicker or more effective "panel" of insulation behind the existing highly reflective heat shield.

    I took the tim e
  • I was ready to buy a new CX-7 until I noticed the bad ac performance. I assumed that the one I drove was defective and told the salesperson that I would buy it as long as the AC was fixed. Then we got into a disagreement about payment (he wanted me to use their bank) and I walked away.

    One just never thinks that something so tried and true like AC can be an issue on a modern car. BTW my other 2 cars are same refrigerant and they cool much better, so it's not that.

    I found some threads about this issue with some post that mimic my experience of seeing air that is barely cool, luke cold. However, I must assume that mazda has sold many of these SUVs so if this was as bad a problem as I experienced there should be many times more posts, but there are not. Is the weak AC a normal thing on this car? Or is it something experienced only by some owners?

    Any Dallas owners want to chime in? I remember one year we had 100 days of over 100 deg weather...so it gets hot.
    My purchase is now on hold until I can learn more about this issue.
    Thanks

    Pancho
    :mad:
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    If you happened to test drive a car that had been previously driven, cabin already "acclimated" to the environment, and the engine coolant was up to operating temperature, most modern day HVAC systems will not supply very cold airflow (DISCOMFORTING airflow for many) absent "extreme" measures.

    To test just how cold, really COLD, the system airflow can be turn the temperature control to MAX cooling and the blower speed to one of the lower ranges.
  • vbbuiltvbbuilt Posts: 498
    It's a known problem. You'll find abundant comments on this issue, throughout these forums and others.

    I've had mine since June 2006, GT with auto climate controls and now have 51K miles on it. Temps in the DC area occasionally get up into the high 90s with high humidity. The 7, sitting in the blazing sun, under those conditions, will struggle to cool the cabin, PARTICULARLY, in stop n' go city traffic. Sometimes it's simply better to open the windows, as the A/C simply can't cool the vehicle. Even when the settings are set to recirc. I've had the system re-charged more than once. Doesn't make a difference. Here's a tip: If you can park in a garage, that makes the world of difference. A/C has no problem keeping the cabin cool, even when it's 100 degrees outside.

    If you do park in the sun, but you hit the freeway shortly after starting, the cabin does cool down in fairly short order.

    I consider the A/C mediocre, when compared to other comparable vehicles under similar circumstances.

    Vince
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Most modern day automotive HVAC systems no longer have a engine coolant flow shutoff valve to prevent HOT coolant flow to the heater core, the reheat/remix vane/door is used exclusively for moderating the outflow temperature.

    The problem with this technique is that it does not "allow" for the radiant heating effects of the heater core being constantly at 190F. You could probably improve the cooling efficiency substantially via blocking the coolant flow.

    Oh, and don't EVER buy a black or even a dark colored interior. And a more reflective, HEAT reflective, "light" exterior color wouldn't hurt either.
  • I have had the same issue with my Mazda CX-7. At 40k miles the ac compressor went out, it also went out on my friends car 4 days after her 36k miles warranty expired. We bith have 2007 models. I'm not going into detail about everything I have been through with Mazda, but I am going to fight this. After all the blogs and forums I have read, this should have been a recall! The reason it hasn't is b/c no one has reported it to the office of defects investigation. I made the first report on friday of this past week and I am begging other people to do so as well. Anyone who has had this problem with their cx-7, please report this. Mazda is getting away with something, and they know about the problem, and are not doing anything about it. I will take this to the media if I have to, because this is wrong in so many ways. Here is the the link to the the office of defects investigation http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/.
  • satz24satz24 Posts: 10
    hi all

    to those who had the compressor failure, did you have any symptoms leading up to that event?

    eg.. did the AC cooling get worse? Or was it always bad?

    Or did it work in some situations but not in others?

    cheers

    S
  • I didn't have any forewarnings. I was driving down the road when all of a sudden I heard this loud noise. I immediatly turned down the radio, because at first I wasn't sure where it was coming from. I soon realized it was coming from my car. I quickly pulled over, and when I turned off the AC to see if I could hear the sound better, it stopped. Thats when I realized it had to do with the A/C. Not to soon after I got a whiff of something burning. Fortunatly I caught it in time before anything actually melted or smoked.
  • The AC compressor on my 2007 Maxzda CX7 has fried twice, once at 30k miles and again at 60k miles. The trend is obvious. I have sent my info to the nhtsa investigation board. I would gladly participate in any kind of customer group challenging Mazda to address my financial implications of this defective system.
  • satz24satz24 Posts: 10
    They replaced my AC compressor (under warranty). Apparently with a newer-specification part.

    Unfortunately the hot weather has finished downunder, but from the few hot days since the new AC went in, it does seem to have improved....slightly.

    The median temp coming from the vent has cooled by perhaps 1.5 C to around 4.5C. However when the car has been parked and then driven again (when hot), the median temps are at least 3 degrees warmer, which is significant. Must have something to do with the built-up underbonnet heat, which also makes incoming fresh air at least 15 warmer than outside!

    still unhappy.
  • I HAD MY MAZDA CX-7 FOR 2 YEARS NOW, AND I HATE IT. MY TIRES WENT BALD WITHIN 6 MONTHS. THE DEALER NEVER TOLD US THAT WE HAD TO USE PREIEUM GAS AND NOT REGULAR. NOW THIS WEEK I WAS DRIVING AND I HEARD A LOUD NOISE AND THE PICK UP SLOWED DOWN. I TOOK IT TO THEM AND THEY SAID MY ENGINE WAS DEAD AS WELL AS MY TURBO. THEY WANTED ME TO PAY 9,000 DOLLARS TO FIX IT. THEY SAID I WASNT GETTING ANY OIL CHANGES. IM, LIKE WHAT, I WAS GETTING THEM DONE JUST NOT FROM THEM. THEY WONT FIX MY CAR. I HAD A MAZDA 3 BEFORE THIS AND I HAD IT FOR TWO YEARS AND I ONLY HAD 1 OIL CHANGE AND I NEVER HAD THAT PROBLEM. WITH THIS CAR I MADE SURE I TOOK CARE OF IT. THIS IS CRAZY MAZDA SUCKS.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Turbocharged engine always require more care and "nursing".
  • sdbobo619sdbobo619 Posts: 13
    I have 2007 Cx-7 and had the exact same problem, no warning one day ac stops blowing cold (should have known there is a design flaw, always noticed that AC struggled to stay cool on hot summer days) next day car breaks down on highway (belt snapped)

    Tow car to dealer, think I am replacing a belt get phone call telling me compressor locked up and snapped belt....now it makes sense....

    did some digging and found out design change on the following year, so that basically proves Mazda is aware they have a major problem...

    the more of us complain the more likely for a recall and thus justice as I paid out 1400.00 ..... My car has 39K just passed thru warranty in March 2009.

    Otherwise I love the vehicle, only other problem I have had is the white smoke about once every six months which the dealer tells me they have never seen....

    I will be filling out the NHTSA info tonight...
  • sdbobo619sdbobo619 Posts: 13
    my ac stopped blowing cold air one day, then the car broke down since the belt snapped the next....

    Always noticed on hot days here in SO Cal that the AC struggled to stay cold...
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Many newer systems will disable the A/C compressor if the engine coolant temperature starts to approach a level of overheating. Since there is no actual overheating, and in most instances disabling the A/C prevents same, there is no indication to the driver other than the possibility that the A/C light extinguishes temporarily, if even that.

    Plus a turbocharged engine might eb a bit more prone to entering this "zone".

    If you discover that the above is what is happening and/or is happening to often for your comfort, you can use the max cooling mode (adjust the blower speed manually to control your comfort level) to dramatically increase the A/C system's efficiency and thus avoid the "zone".
  • bigmick1bigmick1 Posts: 4
    I have not had any problems with the A/C. (30,000mi) I've always had black cars with dark interiors - regardless of brand or style, so perhaps I am slightly more tolerant of high-interior temps and slower cool-down times; but I have no real problems with the A/C system.

    I have experienced the so called "smoke," but that is simply condensation being blown off when humidity is high or the fans are run on low for an extended period of time. That happens in all vehicles under those same circumstances (I've owned GM, VW, Nissan, Ford, BMW) and is a physics issue, not a car issue.

    Also, all cars cool down much faster in recirc mode. All cars that I've owned struggle with the high temp/high humidity/non-recirc combo. Some better with others but all within a range I'd consider reasonable for that circumstance. For the record I live in the Washington, DC area.

    Mick
  • mazcrap1mazcrap1 Posts: 1
    to ihatemazda,
    I have had my POS CX-7 for 2 years. I bought used, it had only 4900 miles on it. We noticed a/c problems, took it in once and they adjusted, but never really fixed. Then in April of 2008 we were leaking oil and coolant. Turns out had blown seals on the transfer case. How many vehicles blow seals at 5500 miles? That should have been a wake up call then. Now, the wife and I were driving home from the store on 4/8/09 and same thing as you, heard the loud noise and car had to nearly crawl home. Had towed to the dealer on 4/12/09 and was told the very same thing, that turbo was blown, I didn't change my oil and now it needs a new engine. They want $9400.00 plus tax to drop a new engine. Hell with them if they think they are going to any more of my money. I still owe a buttload on the car.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Sorry, I forgot about, neglected to mention, the extra cooling load on the engine cooling radiator and coolant due to the need to provide cooling for the PTO, Power Take-Off.

    If you happened to have followed the year to year development of this "new" F/awd system, say on the Ford Escape, you will know that early on there was a serious over-heating problem. At one point Ford had a temperature sensor in the system and advised drivers to pull over and let the F/awd system cool down before proceeding.

    So I'm fairly sure the need to cool the PTO arose out of that issue and I doubt that the overall cooling system capacity was considered before adding the additional cooling load.

    Add a towing load and REALLY get into trouble, the A/C would likely be disabled continuously.
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