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Caravan/Voyager Starting and Stalling Problems

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  • milan4milan4 Posts: 2
    edited September 2011
    i have 2006 sxt 3.3 , it start about 4-5 times after i drove i park after i truing to start no start, only small click, i change starter- nothing, i change ignition starter switch-- nothing, maybe : neutral safety switch, did anibody have idea?
    also no code on OBD test
  • delzorrodelzorro Posts: 2
    This is a great site, not to jinx myself but i followed up an idea on how to fix the dash guages, i thought it was great. I smacked my dash and all the instruments came back on have have worked since, my ac blower sometimes is a bit hesitant to start, but nothing a quick whack doesn't cure. Now i am on the issue of my vehicle stalling.
  • delzorrodelzorro Posts: 2
    did you get it fixed, its not the pump or the filter, i can vouch for that! someone else posted that the connectors for the map sensor injectors n coil pack sitting next to the manifold needed manipulating n moved worked on his.
  • I have a 1998 Ply G/Voy, 200K Miles on it, and it is not starting at this point.

    Over the past couple of days, I would be driving down the road, and suddenly the van would think it had no fuel - fuel gauge drops to empty, fuel light comes on, and no fuel is going to the engine - then it picks up again. As my driving progresses, it happens with more frequency until I have to stop for a few minutes and let it rest - then it picks up again. This was Friday afternoon; Saturday morning, worked fine until the evening - and the same thing.

    Today, it happened again - except now, the fuel pump is DEAD. I checked by turning the key and not hearing the characteristic sound of the fuel pump engaging briefly. Likewise, the fuel gauge is empty.

    One point of note - I *just* had the fuel pump replaced back in May.

    Any ideas on what's going on? Are there other symptoms to check for?
  • Hi, I to have a 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan that starts and doesn't stay running. It also has the Anti-Theft system like your vehicle. How is it running still, and where exactly is this red wire you are referring to at? Hope you get this and are able to help. Thank you. Question? When you would go to start the van up, did your instrument panel ( odometer, tach, etc..) light up at all? When mine didn't light up, or work, I knew it wasn't going to stay running.
  • OK, found the problem here. The issue is a loose connector for the wiring harness to the fuel pump under the car. My mechanic says he can replace it for the cost of an hour's labor, and this guy says he can do it better than the locking molex that connects the thing to power and the BCM.

    Well, OK, it's either that or I have Firestone do it: $1300 for the wiring harness ALONE, plus the cost of labor (involves removing the ENTIRE dashboard to get it all).
  • Additional note - last symptoms are that it will get up to normal operating temperature before stalling out totally. By wiggling the connector, I can make it run - just don't know for how long though. Hopefully long enough to get 'er to the shop. =)
  • I had the same problem. it was both my O2 sensor. and my IAC idle air control.
  • I have a 98 voyager that keeps wanting to stall and buck.We have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and other stuff and its still doing it.Now the battery light is on so we get a new battery but light is still on and van is still stalling and bucking.Today it stalled and would not start got a boost it started but really tried stalling then when I pulled over the dash gauges started going crazy and no power even the radio is dead.I really need an answer how to fix this as I have a 1 year old granddaughter who is fighting cancer and I need to get back and forth to the hospital somebody please tell me how to fix it. Thanks
  • :confuse: :) MY wifes van developed a intermittent misfire at 2nd or 3rd gear. We would put it in neutral and rev the gas, this would temporarily ease the problem. This particular problem was mild and progressively got worse. The codes read a multifunction misfire. We replaced spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, map sensor, cam position sensor, crank sensor, throttle position sensor and coil pack. All connectors are brand new and dry. Our vans problem is still there. I am scratching my head and so are the techinicians I work with. We are at a dead end. The codes this morning now read 11, 37. It seems to be throwing multiple codes at different times. Is there any other avenues we could look at?
  • Hello I have a 96 caravan that starts then shuts down after 5 seconds. I have ran the codes and they say po736 reverse incorrect ratio, p1768 relays always off(stuck open). Does anyone have any direction in which to go to fix these problems or a web site that can help. Thanks
  • I have a 98 voyager that wont start. I have traced it down to no power is getting to the fuel pump. The only connector under the van is the one that connects directly to the fuel pump. Can you be more specific as to where the connector on your van is that is causing you trouble?
  • sounds like autoshut down relay or fuel pump relay or fuel pump
    ebenson@hondaofsalem.com 503-581-7785
  • sda2sda2 Posts: 1
    If no instrument lights work try this. (starts and then stalls also) Push the panel around the instrument cluster or strike the dash above the panel. If it then runs fine the problem is loose contacts where on the panels connecting pins (4 I think) To fix takes about 30-40 minutes. Disconnect battery. Remove dash around panel. Remove panel and sand contact pins. Reverse.
  • Our problem turned out to be the crank shaft. :sick: In the shop now being repaired.
  • Did the Crank shaft fix problem
  • No it did not. What fixed the problem was replacing the sensors. If you are having a stumble, misfire, stalling (our original problem) replace the sensors one at a time. This is a must do: After each sensor that is replaced, clear the "adaptive learn" from the computer, by disconnecting the battery, turn ignition on, headlights on, hold brake pedal down all at the same time for 5 minutes. This will clear all the compastors from the computer erasing all bad memory and trouble codes. Hook the battery back up and start it up. If you choose to replace a sensor use a factory part NOT an after market part. These vans do not like after market parts. I wonder how may owners of these vans know about this "Adaptive Learn" step. A $1000.00 lesson we learned. :blush:
  • The crank shaft was not the problem. It did have a problem with the crank shaft but the misfires, stumble, stalling was the sensors. After replacing every possible part on our van engine it still did not run. Still had the original problem. We limped it back to the shop today. frustrated and out of money. The owner asked if we "cleared the adaptive memory". When you put in a major part you must clear the memory of the bad codes or else the computer will remember the old (bad) codes and continue running with those codes. $1000.00 lesson we learned. Simple process: unhook the battery, turn the ignition on, turn on lights and push down on the brake pedal and hold for 5 minutes. This clears all the bad codes from the computer. Now the computer can recognize/relearn the new part. :blush: We had a very expensive "DUH MOMENT".
  • Did you ever find a solution..... I think it's like finding a needle in a haystack.... we purchased an 04 DGC used back this summer and just this week it started stalling while driving down the road. I've had it to the shop twice and they say they can replicate it and the computer hasn't left any info.... Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated....

    Thanks,
    Ranzack
  • Our problem was clearing the Adaptive memory after replacing a major part . We did not know this ($1000.00 step). We replaced the Map, Cam, Crank sensors, one at a time with out clearing this memory so our problem was always there. All you can do is start here.

    If you are mechanically inclined, then one at a time replace the Map, Cam, Crank sensors. After each installment clear the Adaptive Learn out of the engine computer. Use OEM parts, not after market. You can always return them if they are not the problem.

    Our alternator was going out on our van at the same time as our problems began so it was throwing weird codes. Be careful of dealerships, they have a tendancy to go for the most expensive part first. Like the main engine computer at several hundreds of dollars. Then they work down from there.
    Collectively between my wife and I we have 10years at a Chrysler Dealership Service department. We know there tricks and yes the TV documentary was right. :D
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