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Caravan/Voyager Starting and Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • The connector to the coil can be bad even though it snaps in and seems good. I hard wired it by crimping wire connectors to the 4 metal prongs and extending the wires. It takes some doing and I used a rubber piece from the old connector. You could find another connector at the junk yard and try it. They don't sell new connectors unless you replace the whole wiring harness ($$). See my other posting where I also hard wired my cam and crank sensors.
  • STALLING PROBLEM SOLVED ON 3.0
    I took out the old wiring harness thinking the MAP Sensor connector was bad and found that the wiring to the Fuel Rail connector was fried. I picked up a complete 15 Point harness at a Junkyard for $20. :) Thank you for your advice and ending 8 months of misery!
  • Help-Help
    I started to notice that when maintaining a speed of 20mph up to 50 mph, there is like a misfiring. A movement on the tach of 50-100 up then back down. A feeling of push/pull all though slight it is getting progressively worse.It is very annoying.This condition does not happen in any acceleration from 0-80 and only happens when I try to maintain a constant speed between 20-50mph. No engine lights are on and I had the dealer double check the computer today and it was clear as well.

    This van was taken in to the dealer to fix the recall on the power brake resevoir/new lines.
    This was done back in October and I know it did'nt do this before.

    So, is there anything the mechanic's could bumped on the back side and to the right of the engine block that could produce this? Like a hose, connector.?

    Plugs,wires,air cleaner ok per dealer.

    List of possibilities:
    fuel filter/pump
    Dirty fuel injectors
    dirty valves
    egr valve
    coil connection?
    tranny solenoid sticking
    exhaust pipe restriction
    cam sensor
    Valve spring?
    This list came from the old & new forum, I only came up with the dirty fuel filter.
    Where in the world do I start?
    BTW Thank-you for solving the notorious power steering groaning. By reading the old forum you gave me the info to get the dealer to fix it.
    Wolv
  • Help-Help
    I started to notice that when maintaining a speed of 20mph up to 50 mph, there is like a misfiring. A movement on the tac of 50-100 up then back down. A feeling of push/pull all though slight it is getting progressively worse.It is very annoying.This condition does not happen in any acceleration from 0-80 and only happens when I try to maintain a constant speed between 20-50mph. No engine lights are on and I had the dealer double check the computer today and it was clear as well.

    This van was taken in to the dealer to fix the recall on the power brake resevoir/new lines.
    This was done back in October and I know it did'nt do this before.

    So, is there anything the mechanic's could bumped on the back side and to the right of the engine block that could produce this? Like a hose, connector.?

    Plugs,wires,air cleaner ok per dealer.

    List of possibilities:
    fuel filter/pump
    Dirty fuel injectors
    dirty valves
    egr valve
    coil connection?
    tranny solenoid sticking
    exhaust pipe restriction
    cam sensor
    Valve spring?
    This list came from the old & new forum, I only came up with the dirty fuel filter.
    Where in the world do I start?
    BTW Thank-you for solving the notorious power steering groaning. By reading the old forum you gave me the info to get the dealer to fix it.
    Wolv
  • I've 95 Plymouth Voyager, 125K miles, V6, 3.0 Engine. I've intermitant problem of starting and stalling while driving. when I start the engine some time it starts immidieatly and some time it doesn't. This time it cranks but does not run.

    Some time while driving engine dies. I've to pull over and start the van again.

    I have changed spark plugs, wires, rotor and distributor cap.

    Is there any recommendation? I did read previous Q & A. It mentions about electrical harness replacement (20$ from junk yard) and crank shaft position sensor hard wiring etc. Is changing wire harness easy to do? I like to work on car but not a expert. I've done easy stuf like changing sparkplugs, wires etc.

    thanks in advance.
  • tfd1tfd1 Posts: 1
    after a 20 degree night came out to start van and it was dead. Hooked up a jump pack and van started immediatley. hooked up a tester and alt was charging fine. The instrument panel was going haywire. Speedometer shot to 100 all lights going on and off. so I figured the battery was fried, replaced battery and van still dead. any suggestions or answer are appreciated. Frustrated in ohio.
  • I am working on my friends 1993 Plymouth Voyager and is not starting. It had no spark to the distributor so I replaced the coil. It now has no spark to the plugs so pulled off the cap to see if the rotor was spinning and it was not. You can not spin it by hand so I guess the distributor couldn't be broken. Is this a sign of a broken timming belt/chain or something else? I need to hurry up and get this van running for her, she is trying to get rid of it.

    Thanks,
    Adam
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    IIRC, the various four banger engines had a timing belt, as did the 3.0 V6 Mitsubishi mill. The two Chrysler V6 engines use timing chains and are very unlikely to have this kind of problem. So, which engine is in your GFs Voyager?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Its the 3.0 V6 and it is 2wd. BTW, she's not my GF, maybe some other day, lol.

    Thanks,
    Adam
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Sorry, didn't mean to rush things. ;-)

    Okay, so you're dealing with the Mitsubishi mill. I've never actually had to work on one before so I don't actually know how difficult the timing belt R&R is. That having been said, by looking at my handy-dandy manual I see that this is a fairly involved job, and one that I wouldn't want to tackle without a guide.

    Were I in your shoes, I'd call around to see who has a manual and go and check the procedure out for yourself.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • But is the timing belt the problem? I mostly work on Volvos and if the timing belt breaks you can spin the rotor. On this van you can't spin the rotor and it dosen't rotate when craking. It dosn't make any sense to me :confuse: . Oh well, hopfully I can figure it out.
  • tbmosstbmoss Posts: 1
    We've had a problem for almost a year - have replaced several sensors, rebuilt the transmission - still continues. At times, while driving, it seems like the van turns itself off & then on, quickly - the rpm and speed gauges go down and then up again, the whole van shudders. Sometimes it happens many times in a few minutes, then not again for awhile. A few times it actually turned off and I had to pull over and restart it (which it did, fine). Now we want to get rid of it, but would sure like to find the answer to this problem so we could sell it for a decent price. Otherwise it's good, not yet 90K miles on it. Any suggestions? We're tired of pouring money into it!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Tough call. From what I can tell from the pictures, the distributor is slaved to the left side cam (front side on a transverse installation). Given that the distributor is driven at the same speed as the cam (i.e. half of engine RPMs), there should be a 45 degree gear cut for the cam/distributor drive, so turning the cam by itself shouldn't be a problem. That said, it would seem logical to me that if a cam is loaded up by one or more valve spring(s), it should be quite difficult to turn via the distributor shaft, especially so if the belt broke in such a way as to bind the cam drive within the belt housing.

    At this point, this is all mere speculation until you pull the front of the engine off and have a good look-see. Let us know what you find. Good luck. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • jorgerjorger Posts: 6
    I need help with the timming marks.How do I line the timming notches, thanks Jorge
  • I am going to check the timing belt tomorow and I have a quick question: Is the 3.0L an interference engine and if so do you think that we have damage it by trying to get it to start if the timming belt is broken?

    Thanks,
    Adam
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Funny you should mention that, I was just on a web site a few days ago that gave a list of many (most?, all?) engines sold here in the U.S.A. that are interference engines. I'll see if I can find the link in my "History" and I'll report back. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Per the following web site at least, the 3.0 liter Mitsubishi mill is NOT an interference engine. :shades:

    http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/bmw-525i-articles.html

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • the p0352 code indicate a coil circuit failure. I found that for my van one of the leads going to the coil pack that is controlled by the pcm was constantly to ground if the battery was connected. This means that the coil never charges and therefore cannot fire the plugs. This is likely due to a capacitor to the coil driver circuit in the pcm failing. I don't recommend removing the resin in the pcm and replacing the cap as this is your vehicle and if you get in an accident because of your fix, you may end up being in a big pickle.
    Why it happens is unknown to me, it may be from command starts, as that one wire that goes to your dash from the coil pack seems to be a command start wire. I would recommend going to a junkyard and picking up another coil pack (i got mine from an intrepid), as there may be a failure in that $10 part ($100 from store) even though it passes the resistance test across primary and secondary windings. If you get a new pcm, it is worth replacing.
    The likely culprits are: wiring for the coil pack and injectors, as they go across the engine and may melt from heat; Wiring harnness under the battery box as poor maintenance can drip [non-permissible content removed] on the harness and wreak havoc; PCM coil driver circuit just failing;

    Some no spark causes can include: camshaft or crankshaft sensors being faulty or inproper installation (always new paper spacer, always); Voltage supply circuit to these sensors or the output wire being faulty; a messed up flexplate!; grounds being poor; asd relay being faulty; connections in general; spark plug wires!! (secondary circuit uses two spark plug wires to complete the circuit) replace those rear plugs, it is hard, but if you remove the cowl and start taking things apart it gets easier, and if you take the intake phelum off you get "great" access to the plugs in the rear for 3.3 and 3.8L and you also can inspect the wiring to the injectors/coil pack. Just get a new metal gasket for intake phelum replacement.

    I had p0352 as a code and after tracing wires, replacing the plugs, checking the plug wires, and jiggling all sorts of things, ended up replacing the coil pack and the pcm (hard to find the pcm for my 3.8L 1996 fwd post nov 95 production date). Threw the junkyard pcm in and started right away. Just be thorough befor you do that, because it can be rare and expensive for the pcm. Match that pcm part number exactly, as parameters matter a lot. Never took it to the dealer because my year is pre crazy carkey days, and the van has been running for a month no problem.

    Hope people don't have the struggle MANY others have with this as dealers want to throw parts at it and it has a tendancy to reoccur for many online companions. BE THOROUGH WITH THE WIRES IN QUESTION. Chase them right to the pcm.
  • It could be your connections to the battery, as the battery seemed fine before i assume, and the removal of the battery may have weakened the cable connections. By boosting, you may have encouraged a better connection. Was the old battery frozen? low specific gravity? corroded connections?
    Consider replacing the terminal connections/ cables if you do feel or see failing wires
  • if you are replacing the belt, get them lined up in the first place! 1st cylinder tdc and all the marks line up, try to find a photo in a chilton or haynes. there may be one on the net
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