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Caravan/Voyager Starting and Stalling Problems

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  • Yes, also the starting censor.
    New fuel and filter.
    It will run and start like brand new for a couple of weeks then it wont do anything but run for a couple of sec.
    No lights on dash show.ligts,radio,heat everything will work except the gas gage,oil light.etc.
    Then it shuts down.
  • How about they Oxygen Sensor (check engine light would likely be on) or the Mass Airflow Sensor? Does the outside air temp or humidity make a difference? I recently had issues with my '94 Caravan and they replaced a number of things before replacing the Mass Airflow Sensor. It still isn't running smoothly, but is at least not dying everytime I brake.
  • It was a nice hot summer. As a result, I had no starting problems with my 1997 voyager. Now the cold damp weather is back and its a matter of time before I turn the key, and nothing happens. Or it shuts down while driving. P.O.S!!!
    Hey, its a great car when it runs.
    This is a sensor problem but the issue is in the wiring. My plan is to start at the computer and follow the wires to the crank sensor, cam sensor, and coil. Good luck if you can find a mecanic willing to do this. I hard wired these sensors and it worked (in dry weather). There must be a wiring/ground issue and it will take patience to find it.

    So - my advice, since you have replaced the crank sensor, then either remove the connector and hard wire it or cram the connector full of that electrical grease and reconnect. I tried this but it didn't last.
  • My '04 GC SXT 3.8L with 95K miles runs well, but idles a little rough when in gear. Now, after I fill the gas tank, the van will stall when coming to a stop right after leaving the gas station. It re-starts and runs OK until the next fill-up. Then it stall one time right after a fill-up. I'm not getting any check-engine lights or engine codes. Any suggestions on how to solve this problem would be greatly appreciated.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    It sort of sounds like your Evap System is either a bit hosed up or you are over-filling your tank. After the fuel nozzle automatically shuts off, do you "milk" it a little more?

    Best Regards.
    Shipo
  • Hi every one!! I jsut bought a new 2007 Dodge Caravan SXT in late Oct. I have one problem that has only happened 4 times. When you drive it and say you stop at a store, put it in park, shut the key off and pull it out, lock it up and leave it....Fine so far, but when you come back and try to start it, it will not start?? Turning the key on, the dash lights up but the "PRNDL" shows that it is in "R" reverse and off coarse it will not turn over. Moving the shift lever, you can get the it to move through R-N-D-2 only, it will not show P or L?? We can put it into Neutral at this point to start the vehicle and drive away normally and the next time you stop and start it again it's fine?? Now I know we are putting it in park because you can't pull the key out unless it is park or neutral??

    Has anyone ever seen or heard of this problem? I want to take it back to the dealer, but I know they are not going to find anything wrong unless it happens right there and then!! Like I say it has only happened 4 times so far and is more that likely to happen again, but we all know that things like this don't happen when you want them to!!

    Thanks for any help!! Sorry if I have posted in the wrong place!!
  • The other day my dad was on his way home and hit a deer with his 99 Dodge Grand Caravan, we decided that we would fix the damage ourselves since it wasn't too extensive. We had the damage fixed in a couple days, replacing the radiator, hood, side fender, air filter system, and the support that sits above the radiator, and it looks decent but won't start.......does anyone have any ideas? We've replaced the battery, and when the key is turned you can hear clicking in the fuse panel but the engine does not turn.....
  • I had it in to have the computer reflashed and they did not do it...seems they have found some problem and have to order some module for my van. When that comes in they will call and setup a new appointment. At that time they will also reflash!!
  • latllatl Posts: 1
    Wolv,
    Did you ever get this issue resolved? It's just that I have a 2005 SE with the exact same problem, I just did a tune up and seems to me that is getting progressively worse.
    Thanks!
    Luis.
  • I am not sure if the problem is fixed or not but since I disconnected the anti thief device,it has started.
    I have had this van at the dodge dealer and it hooked up to the machine that tells what is wrong and it comes back nothing wrong.
    When it doesn't run the anti theif light comes on and the van will run for a couple of min.then it dies right out as if someone is trying to steal it.
    the Anti Theif divice is a add on and did not come with the van.I took the wire off that was wired into the fuse and as soon as I did that it started.
    i sure hope this has helped you because this is driving me nuts.
  • Our 1990 Voyager will not start when it gets cold outside. There is no error message coming up. I simply will not start. The garage has scanned it but can't find anything wrong.

    Any ideas?
  • I have the same van, engine size and all. The problem sound just like my problem right now. I have gone through all the electrical did not find a problem. It is cranking but it will not start. Did you solve your problem and what did you do to solve it?

    Thanks
    Craig
  • I did fix my starting problem myself.
    It had been to the dealer and hooked up to the tester.They could not find the problem but I noticed it would run for a couple of seconds and nothing on the dash would lite up.
    Message would pop up saying Anti-Thieft.
    I thought that sounds as if there is something wrong with the Anti-thief system that was a add on and not put on by the manufactor.
    I disconected the (red wire) that was going into a fuse so far no problem it has started and stayed .
    I sure hope this might help you.
  • I have a 1995 3.3 V6 with a cold start problem (175,000 miles) . Cranks over fine but when cold I must pump the pedal or the engine will not fire. Once started cold, I must feather the pedal to keep it running for less than a minute or it stalls. After a minute or so, the engine runs a little rough (skipping/miss-firing?) for 2-3 more minutes then runs great.
    -
    This is where is gets weird. If below freezing, when the motor is stone cold, it starts right up and idles fine without touching the pedal!?!?
    -
    Also, after 15-20 miles, the check engine light comes on but it continues to run great and the engine will start/stop without any problems at all.
    -
    Leave it in the cold for a few hours (35-50 degrees) and you must pump the pedal or it just cranks.
    -
    I cleaned the Idle Air Control unit, Oxygen Sensor, replaced the intake manifold gaskets, fixed vacuum leaks, installed new plugs & wires, cleaned and oiled the K&N filter, replaced the coil / ignition pack, fuel pump, installed a new battery and tested fuel pressure.

    It now runs great but the identical cold start problem persists.
    -
    I have had this vehicle for 2 years and this problem has persisted. During the summer months (65 degrees +) the problem seems to dissipate.
    -
    During these cold New England winters, if I leave the vehicle outdoors (sub 35 degrees) for several hours, it starts right up (no pedal) and runs fine. However, I garage the Van in 40-50 degree garage overnight and every morning I must pump the pedal or it just cranks. It then miss-fires for a couple of minutes and then runs just fine.
    -
    Also, I check my fuel mileage on every tank and it's always around 16 mpg around town and can climb to 20 on long highway trips. Also, it does not burn a drop of oil and the plugs burn very clean.
    -
    It NEVER stalls once warm and it ALWAYS cranks over. The check engine light faithfully comes on after 15-20 miles of highway driving.
    -
    I have had several mechanics look at it and it has stumped them all.
    -
    Any ideas (particularly inexpensive ones) would be greatly appreciated
    -
    Thanks,

    Joe

    cobra_joe_s@hotmail.com
  • I'm not sure, but it could be the Throttle positioning sensor, my 92 ranger acts similarly but by your description possibly worse, and i am in the process of trying to replace it myself, based on some research i've done this problem makes sense for my vehicle and sounds like it could be a possible candidate for your issues,
  • I have a voyager minivan that would stall out at any time. I have been stranded on the highway one too many times. Talking with engineers at Chrysler HQ, I was to check the grounding of the electrical system. Second, I was to check the PDC (power dist. center for loose, broken or corroded wires). I took off my battery and removed 2 screws and rotated the PDC over to see the wiring harnesses. After an hour of checking each wire in each harness, I found one wire that was corroded and loose. After cleaning and re attaching that one wire, I have NOT had any more troubles with stalling. This is probably just one of many fixes that could be your problem. Good luck.........
  • tonyetonye Posts: 9
    Have a 1995 6 cyl 3.0 L base Caravan with 55,000 carefully selected miles ( moms car)

    Problems stared a month ago with intermittent check engine light/rough running. Mechanic replaced O2 sensor based on code.
    Intermittent check engine light/rough continued.
    Several trips to mechanic resulted in "dunno" as problem would not manifest itself.. ( thought it was the wife at this point)
    They replaced ECM cuz problem finally appeared for mechanics and when tapping on ECM the check engine light would go away.
    Problem returned, same error code and mechanic went with fuel injector cleaner.
    Chec engine light did not appear but then out of know where engine just would die, luckily at gradual aceleration from a stop (engine was warm, no check engine light warnings on some occasions).

    Mechanics went back to schematics and checked wiring and unable to find anything.

    Problem with unexpected engine loss went away for a few days but then returned, and persisted for several start/stop iterations. Luckily it was right after Carmax inspected and wrote offer for $750.

    Let it sit for an hour and engine loss after start returns. Note, it stays running if I keep rpms up, not around idle speed.

    My guess is:

    The vehicle has a "Micro-lock" anti theft device that is for ignition cutoff at start that I suspect may not be malfunctioning. Problem is I can't find boo on the company via Internet or local dealer that has schematics.

    100k question now is:

    What do you think? Any suggestions welcome!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    You might also want to be looking for a vacuum leak. If too much air is getting, it will snuff the van out at low RPMs.

    Keep us posted.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • tonyetonye Posts: 9
    Thanks..those can be worse then electrical.. but I'll go back to the tubes and hoses...
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