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Jeep Cherokee Grand Cherokee Steering Stability and Suspension



  • Check your panhard rod. What you are describing is what I know as "bump steering." When the bushings go bad, you will experience this.
  • ive got a 2002 grand cherokee awd.. when i turn left and somtimes right i get a bad vbration.seems when its cold not as bad but when its warmed up its terrible.the wheels also skip like there trying to catch up with each other.Going straight it drives fine. 4 wheel drive seems to work good in low and i think in high also.could it be the fluid in the transfer case or mabey the trans fer itself. any suggestions.Been fighting this for a year.
  • jclerkjclerk Posts: 2
    2002 jeep grand cherokee, after warranty expired (of course), in 2006, experienced steering problem, turning right, no problem.
    Turning left: vibration, noise. Steering fluid in the reservoir was blackish.
    Dealer $400 for new steering box, and $400 labor.
    Been running fine since.
    Dealer said life time warranty; meaning don't have to pay out of pocket for the same repair twice. But dealer has gone out of business since.
  • had same problem with my 02 cherokee. I was changing everything because it had 75-80k. Found out by luck it was a caliper getting hung-up. The friction after driving and depending on your speed, it would vary on vibration. Drive for 20-30min and lift the jeep, rotate each tire. My front right tire would not budge. This only takes a few minutes and would have saved me soo much time trying to find.
  • I'm new to the forum and a first time Jeep owner. I always try to buy American first and was happy that my wife and I agreed on the Overland Grand Cherokee which we purchased yesterday. She wanted to buy a Nissan Murano but I persuaded her to get the Jeep which admittedly wasn't very hard after driving the Grand Cherokee and experiencing the Overland interior. Less than 24 hours after our purchase we were driving into to work together, I made a right turn applied the brake and heard a loud popping noise coming from the front end. A short distance later I repeated the maneuver and again the popping sound. We took it to the dealer who claim they've never experienced this issue with the new body style. They are working on it but honestly admit they don't know what's wrong at this point. Has anyone out there experienced something like this and have any idea what might be wrong?
  • If a dealer tells me that line one more time, I would probably choke him. Typical and common to defer until warranty expires. If this is a new vehicle, take it right back, dump it on the service manager's lap, tell them this is a hidden defect and if they can't get it fixed you want another vehicle within [x] days period.

    These days no customer deserves anything less than perfect off the lot. Accept nothing less. The customer is not supposed to fix issues with new vehicles, that's why dealers have franchises and get paid profit when they sold it to you.

    If it is used, then you bought the problem. Good luck and don't back down.
  • buck53buck53 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 GC Overland too and mine started to do the same thing a few days ago. I would describe the sound as a crunching/grinding sound from the left front while making slow, sharp left turns. Mine has about 59,000 miles on it. I guess I don't drive a lot either. Did you ever pinpoint the problem? I'm not sure if it is a wheel bearing, CV Joint, failing Viscous coupling or something else.

    I appreciate any info.
  • I have a 98 grand cherokee 4.0 4x4 and have had the death wobble. I replaced the lower control arms, steering dampener shock, and the inner tie rod end. The death wobble is dead, i killed it. i suggest replacing your lower control arms, especially if they look dried up and cracked. Hope that helps you out a little. I just went with the stock replacements. they're about $50 a piece.
  • pjdmillerpjdmiller Posts: 4
    Well, I finally tried the suggestion of the Akebono calipers and new rotors. I had the original Jeep problematic Teves calipers which were so bad and those problems are well written on the web if you have them. I have a 99 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 that would start to shake when applying brakes AFTER the brakes warmed up. In other words, driving out cold it was fine then after a run in the city or on the highway, brake application would pulse and the front end would start to shake so badly that you actually had to ease off on the brakes.

    I went the local parts store here in Calgary and bought two front rotors, Akebono calipers and new pads. I pulled off the old rotors and calipers (calipers went back as exchange cores). The mating surface between the new rotor and hub was rusty and uneven. Chrysler data says it must be smooth and even so I took air tools with wire wheels and cleaned them for hours so that there would be less wobble possible between the rotor and hub mating surface.

    The new setup is fantastic. My braking pulse is gone. My front end shimmy is gone while braking. The old original Jeep calipers showed signs of seizing part way and dragging. The best part is mileage went WAY UP. We previously lived with about 450km on a tank (yeah, we got used to it over the years) and after the new setup, we get close to 750-800km per tank. Huge difference.

    My only leftover complaint is that a bump in the road still causes a minor rattle in the steering wheel. I have the original steering damper and have bought a Moog replacement which I will install (About $50 from Amazon). I will be pleased to report the difference, if any. Also, I inspected the rods and ball joints as best I could and did not detect any play. The only other place might be the pitman arm but I'm going to wait until I replace the steering damper since that is pretty easy. Hope this helps.
  • kmc8kmc8 Posts: 1
    Just recently (in 100+ heat) my steering has become squeeky and stiff--does ok driving straight--steering fluid didn't help-WHAT IS THIS problem indicative of? I'm afraid to drive it-upon start things are rattling in front end in addition to steering now. :sick:
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,984

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  • OK just finished doing this to my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I would get the death wobble as I rounded a corner above 50 miles/hour or so and the jeep would hit a pothole or road surface change (like on an overpass). Terrible wobble that won’t stop unless you slow below 40 or so! I fixed it after reading the posts here. I did encounter some problems and here’s my two cents to add to make your process even easier than mine.

    The guy who posted about replacing the stock bolt with a 7/16” bolt is right on the money. The housing that the stock bolt goes through has too much slop. Mine wasn’t wallowed out or anything, it’s just a bad design. A 7/16” diameter bolt fits perfectly. Ordered my bolt online from McMaster-Carr. Grade 8 Alloy Steel Hex Flange Cap Screw 7/16”-14 thread, 3” length. Unfortunately, they only sell them in a 10 pack. That was about $12 total. Their part # for the bolt is 92316A656. Here’s the problem I encountered though. That bolt has to go through the track bar bushing and that IS NOT 7/16” diameter. The previous guy said “drill it out”. Not so easy. Extraordinarily hard tempered metal. All my bits (went through 3 of them til I quit that approach) just made smoke and heat and began to melt the rubber. If you can do it that way, good on you. But there’s an easier way. Take the track bar to a machine shop if you don’t have a press. Have the bushing (the rubber part, the hard metal bushing inside of it and the thin metal shim ring on the outside) pressed out. Cost me $10. Go to NAPA and buy just the track bar bushing (NAPA part #274-9213). Cost me $17.69 with tax. It’s a “problem solver” bushing. Consists of two polyurethane/rubber halves and a metal bushing sleeve. Turns out the sleeve is 7/16” inside diameter! No drilling. New bolt fits perfectly. Solved my problem!!

    The only other thing I would add is about the nut that goes on the back of the bolt. The stock bolt is actually tack welded to a Z-shaped tab that is perfectly ergonomically designed to help you get it back together. It’s in a really tight constricted space. You’ll see. Here’s what I did: I took the factory tabbed bolt and re-threaded it to 7/16”-14. Wasn’t hard. Did a little internet research on tap & die drilling. Drilled it out to the proper pre-tap diameter (memory fails what that diameter was, sorry), then used a 7/16”-14 tap to cut new threads. If you don’t want to bother with that, I’m sure a machine shop would do it for you too. Maybe weld your own tab to a 7/16” nut, that’d work too. I’m also sure that you could just put a regular old nut on the back but it will be a PITA getting it started and tightened.

    Good luck. Thanks to all those who posted before me. Helped me diagnose and solve my problem. Just wanted to pay it forward and add some things that will make your fix even quicker and easier.
  • bihontebihonte Posts: 1
    have a 2004 cherokee also doing the same thing started researching the internet;Auto Recall Date: 03/10/2003
    Estimated Vehicles Affected: 286
    2004 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Defect Summary:
    Defect Consequence:
  • I just bought a 2000 jeep grand cherokee lerado from my uncle and replaced the driver side tie rod end that connects to the pittman arm. The passenger side uppers and lowers tie rod ends were replaced last year. For some reason the steering is tight and will not starighten itself out and return to center. There is some slop in the gear box. I have heard it could be ball joints, but i am not sure. Any suggestions???
  • Hey guys, to all who read this...IT'S THE DIFFERENTIALS....MINE DID AND DID UNTIL I CHANGED THE DIFF FLUID!!! IN MINE THERE IS 75-140 AND ALSO LIMITED SLIP ADDITIVE..THATS THE PROBLEM...THE CLUTCHES AND GEARS IN THE DIFFERENTIAL ARE GOING NUTS WITHOUT THE PROPER LUBE/OR CLEAN AND FRESH LUBE... I have a 2003 GC Overland...mine requires 75-140 and also limited slip additive...IF YOURS REQUIRES LIMITED SLIP ADDITIVE I PERSONALLY RECOMMEND GETTING THE LIMITED SLIP ADDITIVE AT THE DEALER...the limited slip that comes in some brand fluids wasn't sufficient for my continued making the horrible noise when turning...after I added the limited slip lube I bought from the noise...NOTHING...after a couple of figure 8's in a parking lot that problem is long behind me...I hope this helps someone...I came across and article just like the one i am typing now and thats how i discovered how to fix mine...seems common...
  • I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I have read several posts about the death wobble. It first acted up on mine on the interstate in New Jersey and I was on the inside lane and couldn't stop, couldn't get over to the side. Very scary, very dangerous. We took it back to the used car dealer and he replaced sway bars, shocks, everything he could think of and it kept happening, hit a bump or go over 55mph and it shakes like hell. People pulled over behind us to tell us our tires were dancing all over the place. They replaced about everything you could imagine with no success. Then I read somewhere that the brake rotors are crap and they get easily warped. Had them checked, sure enough, warped. Replaced rotors and no more death wobble. I end up replacing rotors on this jeep more than you would normall think to as once they wear down a bit, they overheat and warp. We replace rotors about every two years and no death wobble. Should have been a manufacturer's recall and fix for this, but not. There was lots of recalls for fixes, gas tank sensor, shifter linkage, and others. Hope this helps someone.
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