Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Jeep Cherokee Grand Cherokee Steering Stability and Suspension



  • jbstormjbstorm Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info. However, I have a 2001 JGC and the track bar has bushings on both ends. I had it replaced to no avail. The Jeep starts shaking violently at 50+ MPH and the only way to stop it is to pull over to the side of the road. I installed new Michelin tires (2nd identical) 4 months ago. The problem started shortly after this, at which time I got the wheels balanced again and rotated and it still vibrates. The tires were checked as well with no issues. I then replaced the tie rods, front shocks, had the steering gearbox adjusted and replaced all other rod ends. Still it vibrates. Next on the list was the steering damper, with no result. The latest replacement involved the wheel bearings. One by one starting with the pax side, which seemed to slightly reduce the vibration/extreme shaking. Then on the drivers wheel bearing assy. This did not fix the issue either. I also have put new brakes, calipers and rotors on the car. The ball joints were inspected and are ok. So, about $1000 (mostly my labor) later, I still have this issue. Also, it seems to typically happen in the afternoon when it heats up. Sometimes after pulling over to stop the vibration, I take off again and it is smooth. I am at the end of the road and looking for suggestions. Could it be an axle or CV joint? How about the front driveshaft? Or perhaps one of the larger attaching members on the front diff? Maybe something was tweaked when it was jacked up at the tire store. Finally, just before this started (Feb. time frame) it was extremely cold and pulling out of the driveway I could occasionally hear the sound of some sort of bushing or screaching noise like a spring, shock or something. This went away with the warmer weather. Thanks in advance for any help that is out there!
  • catlady1catlady1 Posts: 1
    I recently took my 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport into a dealership to have them check on a clunking noise I heard on the front end when going over bumps on the road. They told me that the front trailing arm and sway bar were loose because of worn bushings and that the front end will be loose if it's left the way it is. It's going to cost around $1000 for them to fix it. If I don't get it fixed now is the car going to be unsafe to drive? Will it cause other damage if these parts continue to be loose? Thanks!
  • jeepnmikejeepnmike Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,
    I have a mildly lifted cherokee, only 4", and im having problems with the right front u-joint. This problem has happened three times so far. The u joint will loose a c clip for the cap, and then throw the cap while driving. I replaced the joint the first time, then bought a axle assy. with the inner and outer axles, then replaced the joint one more time after that, but it still keeps throwing it. If anyone has seen this issue before, help would be much appreciated.
  • tomh7tomh7 Posts: 1
    I have tried numerous times to remove the bearing hub on pasenger side wheel,
    to get to the cv joint axle.

    could someone give me the correct procedure to remove this hub.

    thanks ,
  • mrkadiemrkadie Posts: 1
    My jeep has never driven so smoothly. Thanks for all of the tips. The cheapest fix I have ever had. Thanks so much.
  • I know this is old,but mine was the steering damper,I replaced that ,problem solved,that happened to me in my 94 jeep grand cherokee in 2002
  • Finally replaced the steering stabilizer and trac bar - the answer to the problem!! - its fixed and no more wobble at any speed or bump condition!! The answer for my Jeep anyway ('92 XJ with 230,000 on it !) and from what I hear this should fix the problem for most. Hope this helps everyone and thanks for everyone else's replies!
  • jah420jah420 Posts: 1
    did you ever do the video?
  • I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and WAS part of the death wobble club. I found these online forums to be very helpful in solving my problem. The Following was the solution to my problem.

    1: new rotors: warped rotors caused an initial wobble that caused steering components to loosen over time.
    2. Drag Link: I replaced the draglink tie-rod ends which SOLVED the PROBLEM!!! The initial wobble from my warped rotors lead to this problem worsening. I found the parts at a local pep-boys/ kragen auto and fixed the problem by my self in two hours. Total cost was around $80. Once you replace these ends, you should notice much more responsive steering, and no wobble from the front end.
    3. An alignment will more than likely be necessary after replacing the tie-rod ends that connect to the drag link.

    Hope this helps and please be safe while driving with the infamous DEATH WOBBLE!!
  • YO JBSTORM, try replacing the tie-rod ends that connect to the drag-link. This should eliminate the infamous wobble (at least it did for me). Also try having someone look under the front end to see what parts are loose. hope this helps!
  • jbstormjbstorm Posts: 6
    I have already changed the tie rods. The other item I changed in the very beginning was the master cylinder. This is where it gets very interesting. The most recent thing I did was take it to a shop I know to have the ABS system checked out. It was fine but, they said the new master cylinder was defective (A-zone part) which was leading to brake drag when the car heated up. The drag lead to occasional rotor warp on the passenger side .....and to the death wobble. I replaced the master cylinder again with a better one...and problem solved. I also replaced the calipers on this car with Akebono vs the Teves that were on it OEM. The Akebono are original on 2002 on. They are actually an upgrade per a service letter over the Teves calipers which can cause rotor warp due to unequal pressure in the caliper cylinders (2 per). I also installed cross drilled rotors just before putting the new master cylinder on. This is when the death wobble disappeared and allowed me to feel the brake drag. They were dissipating the heat from drag very quickly. The bottom line is a lot of $$$ later, and mostly my labor, I have it closed
  • To me, it feels like a vibration from the automatic hubs, it is a 1996 Cherokee SE 4x4, I-6, Auto tranny. I had a auto hub vibration from my old dearly departed Suburban that feels very similar to this. It's only noticable at highways speeds and thats it. My girlfriend is ready to freak out thinking the thing is about to fly apart. It's not a wobble or anything like that as it is straight as an arrow and no wierdness from the suspension. This is my first Jeep, and other then this complaint my girlfriend has, I think it's great. Anyone hear of this or know of something that actually might be causing it or is it just the nature of the beast?
  • No weirdness from the girlfriend, but my girlfriend really likes the way it feels. Whatever is causing it??? all is good. Yeeha!
  • Hey everyone,

    I did what he said on message 144 and I still have the death wobble:( Anyone else do this and still have the problem? Any other ideas?

  • If the trac bar didn't fix, the next step would be the steering stabilizer strut.
  • I read your post and have similar issue but it sounds related to your fix. My 99 GC Ltd has already had the rotors replaced due to warping and the wobble would only occur during braking and would be worst after highway driving. That was about 4 years ago. Then, in the last few years the braking wobble is getting worse. Highway driving at any speed is fine, just braking is the problem, the steering wheel will oscillate violently and the front end does the same depending on brake pressure and speed.

    In the city, the wobble is not nearly a problem but it seems to come and go. The explanation in #166 of a dragging brake would seem to be a good thing to check. I will go check rotor temps after a drive using my IR gun and see if there are differences. I'm assuming I can jack up the car and see if there is any drag on a brake? Any other suggestions before changing our calipers or master cylinders a in #166? This fix has been a real help since the mechanics have only offered to replace rotors and the problem comes back. Thanks all.
  • Your issue sounds purely like a rotor/caliper issue, not a master cylinder issue dealing with brake drag. I too replaced rotors several times on my GC without doing anything to the calipers. It was only a matter of time after replacing them that the shaking would start again. After looking into this in more depth, it turns out that the calipers are basically causing the problem. You may want to upgrade to the akebono calipers. I also upgraded to cross-drilled rotors as well. It is nice to finally push the brake pedal without experiencing some type of shaking.
  • It is a death wobble alright. Sent me into a high pitched squeal for the first time in my life. I thought the motor mounts had come loose. It actually snatched the negative cable wires out of the connector on the battery. I will change the tie rods, Bjoints, traction bar and hopefully this solves the isuue. I had a bad vibration at 60+mph. I took the front driveshaft off and it smoothed out like butter. Found a damaged driveshaft knucle and slightly hampered slide on the driveshaft.
  • I had a bad vibration at 60mph. I took the front driveshaft off and it smoothed out like butter. Found a damaged driveshaft knucle and slightly hampered slide on the driveshaft. 1993 Grand Cherokee automatic, so this problem has been around for awhile on Jeeps. I also experience the "death wobble" still when I hit a bump at highway speeds though the vibration at 60+ went away.
  • I looked at the calipers and they are the originals. I tested your comment out yesterday and slightly depressed the brakes while driving and the pulsing was definitely there. The brakes just grab a few times per revolution so it must be more than one wheel affected. It just gets violent at highway speeds and tends to come and go--perhaps related to braking, heat or some other factor. Unlike the death wobble posts there is never a wobble until the brakes get hit and it disappears when brakes are released. I will try your suggestion for the akebono calipers and different rotors. Thanks for the assistance.
Sign In or Register to comment.