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Jeep Cherokee Grand Cherokee Steering Stability and Suspension



  • topat46topat46 Posts: 19
    Hi all !..........My GC does not wobble or shimmy or shake. What it does is where there is a rut in the road when comming to a stop it will pull in the direction of the rut. When traveling at high-way speeds the car will not wander on a straight and rutless road. I notice though that I have to make very slight steering corrections at high-way speeds on all types of road surfaces. I recently changed the steering damper because it was leaking. The tie rod can be swiveled easily down but stiff in the up swivel motion. Everything looks and feels tight. The jeep has 93k miles on it. With each wheel jacked up there is no play in the wheels. Is this the price to pay for having 17 inch tires or ? Any suggestions would be appreciated.............Topat46
  • My jeep has the wobble. Whenever I hit a bump, such as coming onto a bridge or a small dip at highway speed (45-75MPH) the front end begins to shake so bad I have to pull over quickly. I replaced all the stabalizer bar bushings and the steering damper. I still had the problem yesterday at about 45MPH when I came onto a bridge. Should I replace the trac bar? I noticed the control arm bushings looked pretty worn. I had it jacked up and placed a jack stand under the control arm and noticed some play when I put weight on it. What do i do first? trac bar or the control arm bushings?
  • The steering stabilizer strut and trac bar should take care of your problem. Worked perfectly for me. Had very bad wobble on my 92 cherokee. The steering stabilizer strut is cheapest and then the trac bar but both aren't that bad. $200 including labor for both approx. if you take it somewhere. I replaced both at the same time on mine.
  • Well the sway bar bushing kit was about $40, The stabilizer shock was $35, I bought a control arm bushing kit for $70 (have yet to install it), and I found a new trac bar for about $40.

    I have 265/70/R15 Goodyear Fortera tires on stock alloy wheels, but for the first 20,000 miles or so on that tire I never experienced the shake. I have a 2" rubicon express budget lift on it, but that was about 25,000 miles ago, and this problem just began maybe 5,000 miles ago.
  • As your tires get more worn and subsequently slightly out of balance, that will aggravate the shake. Perfectly balanced new tires help it out. The older your suspension gets,also will show more signs of aggravation also. With a lift, that may pose some other problems unto itself as things wear but I think your on the right track with the parts your planning. Should help anyway.
  • I have a 2000 Grand Cherokee. I recently had a very dead battery and had to be towed. A new battery was installed. Since then I have several power losses. My map/dome lights do not work when the car is off. The headlights do not flash when I lock or unlock the doors with the remote. The horn does not sound with the remote lock and unlock function. The panic button on the remote does not work. The warning sound does not buzz when you shut car off and leave keys in the ignition. The main door lock does not work at first when car is powered off. No warning sound when you forget that you left your headlights on when you exit the car. Etc., etc. etc. Does anyone hae an idea what my mechanic did or not do?? Thank you.
  • myposmypos Posts: 5
    The problems I am experiencing with my 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee are similar to those describing the death wobble except one minor difference. I experience this wobble, of oh my god i am seriously going to die and have no control of my car, going around curves coming off a mountain at about 40 to 45 mph (more prevalent the faster I am driving) and lightly applying the breaks. The wobble presents itself more so when I am going through a left had curve (turning towards the driver side), more so than in a right hand curve. I have been to many mechanics that suggest different things that may cause this wobble (from the U joints to the rear break drums being warped and now cheep shocks), which none of which are the problem. I am about to replace all 4 shocks to see if the problem is fixed but will this problem just come back again like it does with everything i have done thus far to fix the problem. Would the suggestions of # 60 and #144 posts fix the problem or is this something else. Any Idea's??????
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    i would defenetly try there fixes before i spent any more money for other things
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    First get under the front, the pitman arm should have a bar to the passenger side, grab it and try to move it. It should be stiff. If not you need the tie rod end for that bar. Second, there is a bar that links both wheels together, grab that try to move it. If it move you need those tie rod ends. Third jack up each side of the front, so the wheel is off the ground. Grab the top of the wheel and push and pull if it moves you need ball joints. Now I am not sure how to check these but there are bushings on the control arms. These are the bars that connect the axles to the frame. On the frame side, these bushings are replacable, like 10 bucks each. Also check front hub/bearings. All of these can cause the death wobble. Even the stearing gear box. In short, the entire stearing system should be tight, no play what so ever. This is your death wobble. Chrysler aslo has a TSB(technical service builitn) regarding the front break calipers. Causes pulsating and wobble when breaks are applied.
  • myposmypos Posts: 5
    Thanks for the post. The caliper issue would make sense in this case because the wobble only happening while light to moderate brake application. I plan to get under there to check all the steering to make sure its tight this week. But every time I take the car in right after i replace the pads and rotors they keep telling me the rotors are warped and grooved and the pads need to be replaced as well. ahh peace at mind finally! :surprise: :shades:
  • I brought a used '03 JGC last year and have had some problems. Yesterday, with no previous warning, the steering is obstructed when I turn to the right. It is fine if I turn left, but about 3/4 of the way to the right, something is keeping the wheel from moving all the way to the right. At one point, I forced it, and it did turn all the way, but I heard something snap (not as if it broke, but as if the obstruction gave way) The problem did not go away after this, and as of this morning, it is still an issue. Any suggestions.
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Posts: 55
    Brake pulsation has nothing to do with suspension. I have had this symptom on almost every car I have owned with front disc brakes. Replace the rotors and it will cure it. As far as other suspension components, start with the steering box and work out from there. My son and I replaced the steering box on a 98 2 months back. My 2004 GC came with a defective steering U joint (replaced under warranty) and 4 years later its still fine, no problems, front end is tight. I suggest you get a good front end shop for these symptoms. Discount auto repair shops do not have the training or technical specialty to do more than change components and guess at the problem. Worse yet, don't do it yourself if you have no knowledge of front end geometry.
  • sixdayssixdays Posts: 10
    hi there i have the 97 laredo 2.5 td 4x4,can you help me ,if i put my jeep in to 4x4 and turn right or left it make a bad sound juddering i have to stop but if i dont turn its ok ,this is ok if i was born in the roman days were all roads were stright lol.thanks porscha
  • acommeroacommero Posts: 8
    You have a 4wd - If you use it on dry ground , it will do this - front and rear wheels are trying to turn at the same speed with 4wd locked in and when you turn, it tries to compensate by slipping one of the wheels on the ground thus giving you your 'judderring'. This is normal. You also own a Jeep so using 4wd on the pavement or other surface providing traction is not recommended. It is made to use when you may experience loss of traction - a true 4wd (or as close as you can get nowadays). Jeeps are not all-wheel drive vehicles to use all the time. Hope this helps.
  • sixdayssixdays Posts: 10
    sounds good but why dose it still do it off road in the wet at very slow speed ,and when i say noise i mean heavy teeth missing not sincing noise re porscha
  • acommeroacommero Posts: 8
    Well now you may have other problems - one thing to check first might be your front u-joints unless its coming from your front diff. Hopefully you don't have any gear damage but if you hear teeth grinding, its hard to say. Doesn't sound like a typ. problem per sae. Sorry couldn't be of more help. If you find it, post it so others can see. Best of luck.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    could be your viscuss coupling inside the transfer case

    what lettering do you have on your transfer shifter 4hi n 4lo
    or 2hi 4 hi n 4lo?
  • sixdayssixdays Posts: 10
    hi command trac,,from top to bottom,,is. 2WD/4PART TIME/N/4LO.
  • sixdayssixdays Posts: 10
    hi took it a run this morning,off road up the nearest big hill put it in 4 LO.
    and it felt like it was jumping a tooth somwere like the sound of a chain slipping a tooth ,that was streight up the hill no turns ,it did make the climb ,re porscha
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    have you changed the oil in the transfer?

    as for the chain jumping a tooth wouln prob bust the transfer case

    there vis a oil shifted clutch pack inside the transfer and could be not getting enough oil or the oil has thined out or you are low on oil
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