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Dodge Dakota Braking Problems

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  • musicbydmusicbyd Posts: 7
    edited February 2010
    my problem as follows about 2 months ago purchased a 87 dakota 4x4 cheap the brakes already an issue the booster didn't work it was a case of hard pedal but they stopped fine two days ago driving down the road the pedal got easy and stopped but one mile later no brakes at all checked the resevoir no fluid I check it daily thought maybe a ruptured line or cyl refilled still nothing towed to house level still up tried bleeding got nothing fluid still in resv wrapped paper towels around all wheel cyl master cyl and line junctions no leaks any where help
  • musicbydmusicbyd Posts: 7
    i have run into a problem cant seem to get that last upper left nut of the stud of the power booster it requires a deeper socket but... then the ratchet wont fit in the area provided do i have to take the lower dash or is there a specialty tool i can buy there is almost 3/4 inch of bolt past the nut so a short or universal doesnt seem to get it
  • musicbydmusicbyd Posts: 7
    87 dakota solved all other problems by replacin Mcyl and booster and another arose brake lights wont go out seems as if the shaft on the new booster was shorter so at max retrieval of pedal its not contactin boo switch there is a flat metal plate 1/2 inch above the attachment post with a 3/8 nut if i loosen this nut can that plate be moved forward to the contact point or is there another adjustment
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Would an offset box end wrench work?
  • musicbydmusicbyd Posts: 7
    the offsets i found were offst about one inch still the problem of ony two inches of play at full length trans lates to one quarter inch at nut some gave me an idea that worked perfect buy a CHEAP deepwell socket and cut off with a bandsaw itried this cut down to one and one eighth inch perfecto it work you can buy inbetween size sockets only they cost about twenty each mine was 599 for a set of thirteed metric deep well I cut em all just in case and still have my full good set
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Yep, sometimes you gotta do it 1/4 inch at a time.

    Cutting down a deep socket was good idea. You could also have tried taking a deep socket and grinding down the sides to make a couple of square surfaces that you could then get an open end wrench around.

    Can't argue with success, though :shades: .
  • I've got an 01 Dakota 4.7l v8 with 70000 miles on it and it feels like it is not stopping so well. I feel like I have to exert more force on the pedal then i do in other cars or trucks, and that it doesn't stop that quickly. I checked and cleaned all 4 corners today, no abnormal wearing and the pads still have plenty of material on them. I flushed out the old braking fluid and bled all of the brakes, this seems to have helped a little but it still doesn't feel right. The brake pedal also doesn't return to the top quickly, it is not super slow or stuck, but when i let my foot back it doesn't always keep up. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • msg1955msg1955 Posts: 2
    BEST BRAKES/ROTORS, ANY HELP.
  • msg1955msg1955 Posts: 2
    THE ROTORS WERE REPLACED 2 WEEK AGO BY MY DEALER, AS WERE THE PADS, 125 MILES LATER SAME PROBLEM, ONCE THEY HEAT UP , ROTORS SEEM OUT OF ROUND, NOW THIS WILL BE THE 3 TIME, ANY HELP, AT THIS POINT I WILL BUY MY OWN ROTORS AND PAD,THANKS, MIKE.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Did you bed in your new pads/rotors? If not, you can try doing this. There is more info online, just google "brake pad bedding" or something similar.

    Here's what you do. You have to make a series of progressively harder near-stops from 60-70 mph. Get up to speed, then get on the brakes hard, just short of locking the wheels or having the ABS kick in. Come down to maybe 20 mph (do NOT come to a complete stop), then repeat the process again. Each time, see if you can do it from a higher speed and apply the brakes harder. The idea here is to heat up the pads and rotors to the point where any pad material that has been built up on the rotor (which is really what's causing the out-of-round feeling) is eliminated, and a new rotor surface established (I'm simplifying things here a bit). Do this 4-6 times, then drive easily for a bit to cool everything down.

    I can't emphasize enough that you do NOT want to come to complete stop with the brakes applied, as this will keep the pads in contact with the hot rotor, perhaps causing material to be transferred from the pad to the rotor surface.

    Obviously, you cannot do this on any heavily traveled road such as interstates around metropolitan area, so chose your highway carefully.
  • I know what you are talking about. I have a 2002 dakota and I was having the same issues with my truck. I was replacing the brakes and rotors every few months it seemed like. There is a fix though, and its an easy fix. You have to buy slotted and drilled rotors. You can get these online, or at an auto shop. You can get any pads you like. The probelm is the brake design for these trucks is wrong. The truck is too big for the brake system they have.
  • bugz2008bugz2008 Posts: 5
    Wiring up an electronic brake on a truck that doesnt have the towing package.

    Anybody know the wire codes on the harness at the brake pedal for the 08 Dakota?

    Looks like there are two 14 gauge wires, and four 16 gauge wires. I could knick the wires and test them then tape them, but id rather not do that if someone knows whats what.
  • olddakotaolddakota Posts: 1
    I have a 1989 Dodge Dakota that I am having problems with a shudder at aprox 30-50 mph. I thought this was a bearing problem so I replaced all bearing on the front. I still have the shudder along with what sounds like a bearing noise. I have had problems with the back drum brakes and replaced both drums. I did not adjust the drum brakes and after replacing the drums I got a bad pulsation in the brake pedal. I thought maybe the problem is with the rotors. I replaced both rotors, no help. I am really at a loss. I have done brake jobs on this vehicle since I have owned it but this is frustrating me. Any Ideas?
  • bennybambennybam Posts: 1
    Iv got a 1995 Dakota. im having trouble figuring out why the brake lights wont work. the tail lights come on, and the turn signals, which are the same part of the bulb as the brake lights, work too. i think it could be the brake pedal switch but im not sure. any ideas?
  • 63pro63pro Posts: 15
    I have a '91 Dak, rwd, 3.6, reg cab. I bought it with bad brakes and had a local shop placed rotors and pads. They said all looked OK after that. Recently I had to replace gas tank straps because of rust and this pushed me into looking at all areas of truck and to my dismay, there is a lot of rust which made me sick. I checked the brake job and it appears the caliper adapter that acts as a rest for the caliper is terribly rusted as are the fittings on the hoses and steel lines. I want to replace but cannot find caliper adapter anywhere. There is also a splash shield with most of it rusted away that I cannot find, but maybe I can get away without it. Do any of you have any helpful ideas? By the way do these trucks run with metric bolts, etc., or US. When I snap on off, it isa guessing game for me as to what works. Thanks for any and all help. :sick:
  • tommy97tommy97 Posts: 17
    This is for:
    '97 Dakota Sport 2WD / 3.9L V6

    I have recently replaced my main brake line that leads to the rear axle. I have determined that the REAR bleeder nuts (10mm) are different from the FRONT ones (roughly 3/8").

    Chapter 9 of the Haynes Manual (Brakes) - #30041 - gives NO specs on the nut size for bleeder screws. Ditto Dodge dealership.

    Does anyone know FOR A FACT what the sizes are for the front & rear bleeder nuts on this model?

    I appreciate all respectful answers.
  • I have a 2001 Dakota with 40,000 and my front brakes overheat when I do a lot of hard stopping. I feel the brake peddle staying at the top and won't press down until they cool off. The back brakes stay cool. The truck also pulls to the right. it has new brake pads on it all the way around. Any ideas on this problem ?
  • jc727jc727 Posts: 5
    Had most of the same syptoms on my 2001 Dakota, found master cylinder over serviced. Drained some off and have never had problems again.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Sticking calipers?
  • I took my truck to the shop and they found out the caliper stuck and warped the disk. I had the caliper and disk replaced and new brake fluid put in and a front end alignment. The truck drives great now. Thanks to everyone for your help.
  • we have 2002 dodge dakota 2 times our brakes locked up.been everywhere. found out th<ANTILOCK<CONTROL UNIT/MODULE recall number is 06v038000 this is what is wrong with the 2002 dodge brakes locking up, We need a recall so everyone has to call federal trade document it, call dodge file a complaint call your attornet greneral , its really expense to fix this problem,im not sure if we can because i think the computer has to be program I am still trying to get our fix I will not stop so EVERYONE ahs to help call me if you need help 5709955110
  • abs unit recall number on 2006 is 06V038000 same problem as 2002 dodge dakota has antilock control unit module
  • jc727jc727 Posts: 5
    My 2001 has locked up 5 times in 120000 miles every time had dealers or some other shop do the repair usually new pads rotors sometimes hoses etc. It got so hot one time even had to replace wheel bearings.
    Any ways it would do it again after "repair" sometimes right away sometimes 30,000 miles.. Last time it happened I ripped it apart my self ordered new pads and rotors while in the process of installing them I noticed the area of backing plate that sticks out where brake pads rest in order to slide in and out, was all rough and gnarled. I ground and filed them smooth so pads could move in and out smoothly with wear and have not had a problem since..
  • Hello All

    I am hoping someone may have some insight on the issue I am having with my 2005 Dakota.

    No dash lights are signaling an error, but when I stop on a slick surface my ABS system turns on for a second or so then the truck starts sliding until it stops. Very rarely does the ABS system turn on after the first attempt, and if it does it is only for another second. We just had a heavy snow storm so it is easy to test out. Again I can feel the truck sliding and the ABS kicks on for a second and then stops working.

    When I turn the truck on the ABS light turns on as normal for a few seconds then turns off. There is no other identification of an issue that I know of besides the fact that the ABS does not work properly.

    Thank you for taking a look and for any help

    Matt
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Doesn't the ABS only work on the rear brakes? So the front wheels can still lock up, but at least the light back end won't come around on you. At least that's the theory.
  • Thank you for replying to the message srs. That does make sense to me in regards to the way the ABS is functioning. I didn't realize it was rear only ABS. I am accustomed to a sedan with ABS and it was totally different. This really helped out a lot and thank you for replying.

    Matt
  • russ47russ47 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Dodge Dakota Quad cab. After i drive it for a while braking it seems the pedal is all the way to the top and the brakes are on. After it sits for awhile the brakes are fine and it does not do it every time i drive it . Sure could use some help
    Thanks russ47
  • jc727jc727 Posts: 5
    edited July 2011
    A WAG, have you checked master cylinder level to see that its not over recommended quanity?
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    I've had the customary, warped rotor and seized caliper problems with mine since 1998.
    106,000km (little over 62K miles). It's 3rd set of rotors on it now, and 3rd caliper on the driver's
    side. The first oem seized up at roughly 50Kmiles and the second within 12 months on the same
    side.
    However, yesterday, I got quite a shock when I came off the expressway onto a down ramp
    and applied the brakes. The pedal went almost to the floor and the ABS and (B)rake light
    came on. I managed to slow the truck down to avoid rear-ending a car in front of me, but
    it was a miracle. I crawled to the nearest garage to get find out what had happened.
    Looked at the master cylinder reservor and it was almost empty! Looked around underneath
    and we found a leak about halfway along the frame. The front to back brake line had rusted
    at one spot and had sprung a leak.

    Since the garage had time to replace the brake line, they also checked the brakes on all 4 wheels
    and the back shoes were coming apart so it was time to change those. The bleeders were seized
    on the rear wheel cylinders so they had to be changed as well..and the cross axle brake line
    and the flex hose which had serious signs of abrasion from rubbing on the rear axle.
    4.5 hrs of labour later all the lines, except the ones for the front wheels had been replaced.

    Now this is the perplexing part. I thought that most modern vehicles had dual braking systems
    and the fluid in the reservoir was separated so that a leak and complete loss of fluid in one
    didn't affect the ability of the other set of wheels to still be able to brake....not so apparently
    on the 98 dakota..the master cylinder was practically empty..I did see a tiny bit of fluid in
    a middle "round" compartment, but not sure if this was for the front calipers or not.

    I was lucky that I still had at least 25% braking power (if that), but to me, this seems a serious
    design flaw in the master cylinder reservoir on the 98 Dakota.
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