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Toyota Echo Transmission

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  • I used to drive a '96 Ford Windstar and I still drive a '94 Mercury Sable Wagon. Both were notorious for having the automatic transmission blow up at just over 100K. I put a transmission cooler on the Windstar since I pulled a small utility trailer for holidays over the Rocky Mountains yearly.

    I thought that given the reputation of the transmissions, that I would occasionally flush the transmissions... thinking if I change oil every 5000 - 10000 km then changing the tranny fluid every 80K or 100K would certainly be reasonable.

    The outcome... I had 270,000 Km on the van when I slipped off an icy road last year (they wrote it off because the airbag went off) AND I am still communting daily with the Sable wagon and it's pushing 300,000 Km. I have had NO tranny problems except for cracked line to the radiator that was easily replaced.

    IMHO... I'd say that the flush is WELL WORTH IT! :shades:
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    Automatic, I assume? If you have a manual, they are taking you for a ride. Manuals don't get flushed.

    On an automatic, it's nice to do once in a long while as it gets all the fluid out and exchanges it, which regular drain-n-fills don't do. But also be aware that it is a MASSIVE profit item for mechanics.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • Actually I shopped around for pricing on a automatic "flush". One of the local, small time (not large chain) lube places had the best pricing. They took off the pan, cleaned it, changed the filter, put on a new gasket and then disconnected the pipe to the radiator cooling tank and kept on adding fluid until it ran out clean. As mentioned above, just "draining" doesn't work because the torque converter pools about 1/4 of the fluid and that doesn't "drain"... so you have to run the vehicle and have the new fluid "pump" though until it come out clean and pink. It was about $CDN 115 but there was LOTS of fluid pumped through the tranny.

    Oh... the other thing that I do is about every 25 000 I add a slippery/slidey "conditioner" that cleans and lubricated the valves and pumps. I sometimes got a clunk when shifting... and this always smoothed things out. Again... only about $8 and likely worth it.

    So... shop around for pricing and ask them exactly what they do... if it is just drain and fill... it doesn't change ALL the fluid. Ask around... /denis
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    Typical mechanic scam - dont fall for it! There is no requirement in the owners manual to change the auto transmission oil EVER. Or even the filter. The 1979 Chevy Silverado pickup truck I gave my brother in law at 250k miles now has 350k miles on it and the transmission oil is origional. (three engines though) A typical auto trans has like 10 qts of oil in it mostly for hydraulic power transmission issues NOT for lubrication. Mechnaics dreamed up the "power flush" thing to dupe gullible motorists. As you say your runs fine without any "flushes" at all.
  • Maybe mechanics are recommending "flushes" nowdays because the darn cheap transmissions are blowing up (I don't know about the reliability of the Toyota trannies). BTW, the 1979 Chevy truck transmission (likely a Powerglide) were INDESTRUCTIBLE... not like the flimsy ones they put in cars since the 90s. Do what you think you should... but if a tranny is known to blow up at 120K or whatever... I'm still ahead by doing 2 or 3 flushes by 300K... and no surprises nor downtime on holidays etc.
  • 2001 echo 5spd 100 thou miles. Had clutch and throwout bearing replaced...think the preasure plate as well but dont remember for sure. With clutch out in gear or at idle there is a loud growling noise. Noise is so loud it can be heard about the engine at any speed. I thought it muswt be tranny going...I did read where a bad preasure plate can make noise as well...any guesses
  • I forgot to mention that the clutch is jerky and it is hard to get smooth starts now. That wasnt the problem before the clutch was replaced....thats why I think maybe it isn't the tranny
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,666
    Sounds like a bad clutch job to me. 100k miles is not a lot for a clutch, and it is very low for a manual tranny. If the noise wasn't there before the clutch job, it shouldn't be there now. There are a few things they can screw-up on a clutch job, and it sounds like the bearing was not installed correctly. Is it making noise in neutral, clutch released (foot off), or specifically when? Pressure plate should have been changed, but yes, this could cause problems too. Let us know specifically when you have the noise, and when you don't.
  • no noise when clutch is engaged....just the opposite of throwout bearing (or so Ive been told.) Noise is when foot is off the clutch...even in neutral. This all started when we DID have a bad throwout bearing so clutch was replaced at same time...It is my daughters car. I willl have to check with her to see if presure plate was changed. Now to get a smooth launch you have to slip the clutch a lot...there goes that clutch....or it jerks a couple times.
  • '03 auto w/63K miles. when start in cold weather seems reluctant to shift out of first gear until it warms up a tad. what is this?
  • lhansonlhanson Posts: 268
    That's what it is supposed to do. Don't worry about it.
  • thanks, but is there a quick non-techie answer as to why it does that? thanks.
    -gary
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    Toyota designs them to rev higher when they are cold because it warms up the catalytic converter more quickly and consequently reduces smog-forming emissions. It has the added benefit of saving gas, believe it or not, as the engine uses a lot less gas when it is warm than when it is cold, and it warms up the engine more quickly too.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • the transmission is control by the ecu and the mass air flow meter is an input to the ecu.
    driving with a scan tool hooked up may give some insight.
  • An input shaft bearing will grind or growel.
    chirping is the the relaease breaing or its linkage.
  • 90% of the toyota automatic transmission failures are because the fluid was never replaced.
    look at it as insurance against the trany failing
  • you have that backwards. the massive profit is in flushing a transmission.
    if wait a long time, you will need to flush the transmission.
    drian and fill is ok if it is done reguarly on a toyota.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    LOL! I wrote that more than two years ago! But I didn't have it backwards, although I may have expressed it badly....what I meant was transmission flushes are a massive profit item for shops. From what you wrote, I believe we agree on that....

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • Hey guy's. I too have the chirping sound or squeling sound,on my 01 ECHO sedan 5 speed.When you engage the clutch the sound seems to go away.If it is the throwout bearing or, and pressure plate.How much does this job run?($)In genearal what does a new clutch run?
    Also my clutch seems to be losing pressure.(feels very lite)any ideas?
    It seems to shift okay but a little jerky sometimes.
    I just bought the car 5 day's ago and put over 1000 km's on it.Bought it with 145,000 k's
    90,000 miles or so.never been in a clamied accident.I am quite worried with the problems,because this is a super reliable brand.Yes the car is 10 years old and counting.
    Any input would be great.Or just chime in on your ECHO problems or experinces.

    I ran over a curb doing 30 miles an hour, was more of a concrete island dividing two lanes at an intersection.I was lucky to miss a metal light pole by just 3 feet.The little echo took all the force of the accident with the steel wheel and tire.There was a big bubble on the tire after.I thought for sure i killed the underneath of the car ,but all was needed was a used tire,and banging the steel wheel back to shape.And a balance and i was on my way.Tough little cars for sure.High ground clearance.

    Well thanks Bryan in London Ontario Canada
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    edited November 2012
    If pressing on the clutch makes the sound go away that is classic throwout bearing.

    "Weakness" is just the hydralic operateing system. ECHO has a light clutch pedal pressure. As long as the clutch doesnt slip while accelerating its fine.

    Sounds like the clutch is tweaked but serviceable.

    Personally I can drive a new car with a clutch 200,000 miles without replacement (or more) I have NEVER needed to replace a clutch.

    So if the car was mine I would just drive it hoping the dammage will stop and not get worse.

    But in the meantime look for a shop and get estimates. I dont know what they get for a clutch job but the ECHO is failry complicated to get the trans in and out Im thinking.

    Good luck and tell us what happens!

    Also post something at least once a week to liven thingsup around here! I love to gab.
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