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GMC Jimmy Electrical System



  • mwolf9000
    thank you and will check, the shop worked under there when they put a new actuator door in but told me nothing there would cause what is going on.
  • Did the brake light problem only start after they put the actuator door in? If so, then I'd definitely check that area for a wiring/connection problem.
  • melann40melann40 Posts: 1
    I just brought this from a friend and she did not know nothing about these things that were going on, the dome light bulb was replaced, still does not work, the button you push to open the rear window does not work and my stereo in it wont come on or off, so does anyone have an experience with this or could give me an idea what it could be?
    Thanks, Melody
  • jv6049jv6049 Posts: 2
    My Motor book does not explain this very good. When the shifter is in 2wd. the vacume is still holding it in 4wd. I was told to adjust the shifter linkage for the transfer case, yet it doesn't explain how to do this. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.
  • I have a 97 jimmy that I'm rigging for towing. Does anyone know what color wire I tap into on the brake switch?
  • i was wonderin if i install a 180-200 amp alternator would it cause any electrical problems in my 01 jimmy?
  • millertymemillertyme Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Jimmy 4.3 4x4. I unplugged one of the window motors for a reason that is now fixed and we were operating just the pas side window. It stopped working and now neither work. fuse is good, no obvious grounds or opens. beyond that, I'm not a spark chaser. I would really like to do this myself if it is an easy fix and i know i wont get a straight answer from a shop. Another funny thing is that it also has an anti-lock light and brake light that flash intermittently and they seem to reset every time i hit the window button. I'm thinking relay but I dont know where it is. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • ddegainddegain Posts: 1
    How do I remove the security system? My 97 Jimmy security systems works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. Last time it took me over half an hour to finally get the car to start. Replaced battery in the remote car starter....checked the voltage on the car battery....fine. Starter is also working.
  • michael79michael79 Posts: 21
    1999 jimmy 4x4 changing the cv shaft, will the cv shaft go through the steering knuckle, or do i have to remove it?
    thanks michael
  • keanijoekeanijoe Posts: 5
    98 Jimmy...takes 4 attemps to start in morning...great in afternoon. Runs bad at light throttle,,,,if I floor runs thing that is the morning...I start the truck and only the left side speakers work...truck runs bad....afternoons...both side speakers work and the truck runs great...I'm not crazy and know speakers don't make the truck run bad but the two have to be connected...It has to be some switch ...I think...also sometimes when only left speakers won't work...could it be the ignitiion switch?
    Or...could I just be CRAZY......... and crank sensor...distr..pugs..wires...
    I get codes telling me it misfires....and sometimes is -7 off in timing...but I can't turn the's locked down...HELPPPPPP
  • trikdaddytrikdaddy Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy SLS 4x4, 4.3L, 2Dr. I keep hearing the flasher (behind the glove box) clicking. Has done this for the last year I have owned it. I have replaced it (27.00 from dealer) and still clicks (they would not even take the part back even though I was in the lane outside customer service). When I press the brake pedal, the clicking stops. Take my foot off, the clicking continues. I disconnected the brake switch, and the clicking continues. All lights, flashers and blinkers work properly. Blinkers/4 ways do not flash unless turn signal/hazard switch activated. Still the clicking persists. Any help on resolving this issue would be very appreciated. Thank you very much in advance.
  • Hi guys...I have a good one here that I'm hoping one of you can figure out for me.

    I have a 1996 Jimmy that I put an electric over hydraulic plow on. I put a second battery in it to help with the draw. I used it all last winter and when everything was running (lights, defroster, rear defroster, rear wiper, front wipers...when I actuated the would draw down to @9 volts at an idle to 1000 rpm. I decided to put on a larger output alternator for this coming winter and bought a 155 amp unit and also the recommended beefier wiring kit with a 175 amp fuse in it. I installed everything and ran the vehicle with everything going and actuated the plow several times. It still drew down to @ 10 volts but recovered much quicker. I shut it off and since it's just used for plowing, I didn't start it again for a week or so.

    Recently, I started her up and immediately noticed that the voltmeter was registering about 9.5 volts with no load on anything. I called Napa and had them ship another one. I took my new one in and the guy bench tested it and said it was good. He also tested the new one they got for a replacement and found it to be bad so he ordered a third one. I installed this one and it worked fine. I started it up the next 3 days in a row and it was charging just fine...but the 4th day, it did the same thing. When I started it up, it wasn't charging. Something happened to both alternators between the time I shut off the vehicle and the alternator was the next time I started it and it wasn't.

    I believe I should have 12 volts at the charge cable end at the alternator at all times...I do. Also, the "L" terminal coming out of the harness at the alternator should have 12 volts when the ignition is in the RUN or START position...I can't confirm that. I don't have a test meter...just a 12 volt trouble light and I'm not sure I'm making a good connection to that small pin but I had these conditions before I installed the second alternator and it worked for 4 days.

    I don't understand what has happened...why the new alternator will work for a while and then just stop working while the engine isn't even running. I just replaced the original 105 amp alternator with a higher output one...and I installed the wire upgrade kit that goes with it.

    What does that "L" pin go to? Does it have something to do with "exciting" the regulator? I think I read that it could have a resistor in the line somewhere. What does it look like, where is it located, and how do I test it? Can you enlighten and help me...PLEASE? :confuse:
  • I have a 1997 GMC Jimmy 2WD 4.3L engine that I need a wiring diagram for. I bought a Haynes repair manual , but it doesn't seem to come close to covering my vehicles wiring. My jimmy had a fire under it at some point in its past and melted a large switch assy on the side of my tranny. It seems to select lights (reverse etc) among other things, but its all kind of a mess now. Where can a guy obtain this info. Thanks.
  • I think something is draining the battery. I replaced the battery and the alternator but that didn't help. I checked the fuses and they all look ok. I was thinking maybe it's the positive cable on the battery, but I'm not sure. I'm not familiar with the electrical system. I just tried to start the truck and there was power. As soon as I turned the key everything went dead. I'm going to get this battery charged again and take it from there. If anyone has any ideas, I'ld love to here it. Thanks in advance.
  • you have a bad connection somewhere, you can check the positive post to make sure it is not broken, that happened to me once, or your possitive cable is corroded somewhere down the line.
  • My brother was driving his Jimmy the other night when without warning he lost all electrical. He didn't even have a slighty flicker of power once it died. I asked him if he smelt anything hot like there was a short somewhere and he said NO. I checked his battery and it had more then enough power to turn on dome lights yet they wouldn't work. Everything is dead. We don't know what the problem can be, we looked at the ignition switch and I don't see anything wrong with it but not quite sure how to test it. What would cause this vehical to just loose electrical power without any warning?
  • My son's 97 Jimmy has the same problem as electric power anywhere. The other night we had to tow it home after it died from what we thought was a bad alternator. Headlights going dimm, stalled out, wont start, and when the jumper cables were removed it died. So the next day we spend some rent money on a new alternator and battery. Now theres nothing. No power anywhere. I've checked all the fuses I could find, and we took the covers off around the ignition switch and no power to any of the big wires going to the switch. We cant afford a mechanic and if he dosen't have it monday we're screwed....any ideas???
  • Well after my original post I took the battery to be checked. Although it was a new battery, it still needed a charge. I figured something was killing the battery. Since I charged the battery I haven't had a problem. I did figure out that if the break release was not pulled hard enough, the dome light would stay on. That might have been what was was killing the battery in the first place. I don't think that's your problem though.
  • well after a $190 repair bill we were informed that we had left a wire unhooked from the alternator...when we put the new one on it got trapped under it and we couldent see
    but thanks for the help guys.
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