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GMC Yukon Reduced Engine Power message

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Comments

  • 096torrer096torrer Member Posts: 2
    I have an issue with my truck, the check engine came on along with the reduced engine power warning light? Any ideas what to look for?
  • 096torrer096torrer Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone have a photo of what a throttle actuator control (TAC) module is on a 2003 GMC SIERRA 2500HD
  • eddy17eddy17 Member Posts: 1
    Help from a start "traction active" displays on dash and you can hear down by the gas pedle inside slipping grinding noise ? and no power not a good thing when your in an intersection ,if I let off the gas and hit it again it takes off , or I have pushed the button on the dash "stability system disabled " and leave it off . is this anything to do with the brown with white stripe plug in under the hood .thanls
  • edlynaquinoedlynaquino Member Posts: 1
    I also encountered this REDUCED ENGINE POWER on my 03 YUKON XL. I pulled over. Turned the engine off.Waited a few minutes, then turned it on again and turned it off twice. On the third try, the idling went back to smooth and no more REDUCED ENGINE POWER message.This only started when my battery was dying. After replacing the battery with the engine running, the AC don't seem to blow cold air anymore. I dont even hear the AC compressor kick in. You might be wondering why I had the engine running while replacing the battery because I thought I would need a code to unlock my stereo lock.Please help
  • skewterskewter Member Posts: 2
    OK I have read most of the posts on this and I did a couple of things suggested like the grounding wire, and the wires on top-just jiggled em. It seem to work but I am still having some issues with it starting. The latest is; when turning the vehicle on, it kicks over slow, like it has a low battery, or low charge. The clock will not keep its time so whenever you turn the vehicle off and then start it again, it always goes to 12:00. Could this mean I need a new battery? and why would the reduced engine power lignt come on ever so often? just need some help - dealers are ripoffs and I do not have a mechanic I can trust or the $. thanks in advance
  • bunchz71bunchz71 Member Posts: 10
    Maybe to me sounds like you have an alternator going out. If the battery is weak, and not fully charged, your ignition system may not get getting the full voltage that is recquired to function properly. Any warning lights on the dash on, other than Reduced Engine Power ?
  • skewterskewter Member Posts: 2
    Well - I changed the battery and things are back to normal so far- i checked the alternator and it was running great. the battery was dead dead dead. I hope that was the problem, knock on wood. I appreciate all your responses and if i run into any more issues- i will be back on this board - you guys are great! thanks-
  • yukon03yukon03 Member Posts: 7
    I am just now experiencing this issue as well and I do not think it is my battery or my alternator. Where did you purchase this harness connector?
  • yukon03yukon03 Member Posts: 7
    Greetings! How did you check the alternator? Did you remove it from the vehicle or check it while it was running? I checked my battery with a voltage meter while it was off (12.3v) and when it was on (14.3). The battery is 29 months old and is a Duralast from Auto Zone! Still have the warranty receipt and was getting ready to head up there and get it replaced until I checked the voltages. Would the harness cause the false/positive voltage check! I am grasping for answers to get this fixed the first time as we are going camping next week and I use my Yuk to pull or pop up camper and I am a little stressed right now!! Any assistance will be greatly appreciated!
  • yukon03yukon03 Member Posts: 7
    Can anyone tell me where the ground wires are on my 2003 Yukon!! I have read almost every post on this site regarding the Reduced Engine Power situation and I have come to the conclusion by troubleshooting my Yukon and just watching the alternator gauge meter fluctuate that this might fix my problem as well!! The battery and the alternator are fine on my vehicle. If someone could please send me a pic of the ground wire location and that computer/battery harness wire everyone is referring to I would greatly appreciate it!!! My Yuk has been sitting in the driveway for two weeks now because I am afraid to drive it in fear of getting stuck or involved in an accident!! Going camping next week with the pop camper and need to have this problem resolved by then!!Thanks for all of your support, this forum rocks!!!!!!
  • yukon03yukon03 Member Posts: 7
    Are you having anymore issues with the Reduced Engine Power problem after you changed the battery?
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    See post #22 from bunchz71, and the provided picture from him/her may give you an idea of the wiring...
  • wendygeewendygee Member Posts: 1
    Hello! I have a 2004 Chevy Avalanche and my Reduced Engine Power Warning flashed. Upon conducting a diagnostic check the following popped up:
    P0120 Throttle/Pedal Pos sensor A clef malf
    P0156 025 clef malf 2/2
    P0157 025 clef low volts 2 2
    P0332 knock sensor 2 clef low input bank 2
    P0496 Evap high purge flow fault
    P2135 Throttle/pedal position sens/SW A/B voltage correlation
    I HATE the idea of going to a dealer to have the issue taken care of because I am hoping it's either faulty wiring or a sensor and in owning cars for over 20 years I have yet to have a good experience with taking my car/truck to a dealer to have it repaired. Does anyone have any suggestions, guidance, or direction? Even if I could get my hands on an Avalanche electrical schematic I may have a shot at troubleshooting this issue? the biggest problem is that the engine will not accelerate higher than 20 miles per hour once the warning comes on, and it comes on sporadically so it needs to be taken care of ASAP. Help anyone? Thank you!!!
  • bunchz71bunchz71 Member Posts: 10
    I would suggest to try and read some of the earlier post in this forum on this topic. Lots of good info. Thanks,
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    Wendygee, I saw your post a few days ago and was not able to suggest anything until now... Basically, from your list of trouble codes and what I can find is to begin your trouble shooting from the Throttle Pedal position sensor for proper resistance reading and if its physically secured in place and etc. Sorry, I could not find the service manual for your particular model year, so, you may have to check that in your local library or GMC Service Department for the sensor spec and location for trouble shoot. Good Luck!

    As far as the Knock Sensor and other codes may be triggered by the pedal sensor, so zoom in on the pedal sensor first.
  • cwaycway Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 yukon xl. I was driving it today and put my foot on the gas to give it some power and it did nothing. All of sudden my oil guage dropped from 40 to 0 and the car just died. I tried to start it again and it started and then shut off. I just replaced the transmission,water pump. Does anyone have any ideas what could be wrong with it??????? some one told me the fuel pump,sensor and then the most expensive the computer...please help
  • bandit79mprbandit79mpr Member Posts: 1
    i own a 2003 silverado 1500hd crew cab, 6.0 automatic. i fought the reduced engine powre thing for almost a year, kept throwing the code of bad tpp, replaced it to no avail, tuned it up to no avail, new wiring harness from tpp (on pedal) to tac module to no avail, new throttle body and wiring harness to no avail........at this point i had spent almost $2000.00 and it was still running like crap, took it to the dealer for reprogramming and another throttle body (free of charge after i blew up in the mechanics face) and it ran fine for 2 days and i took it back again in may 2009 and the mechanic was gone when i went to pick up the truck, i asked the guy at the counter what he did this time and he said that the head mechanic had done "something" with the tpp but he was'nt sure what. the truck ran like a top all summer with trips to the mountains towing my camper, runnung all over the place looking for parts for my restoration projects and daily trips to work. around the middle of september the temperature started dropping into 40's and 50's at night and guess what?, that good ol reduced engine power light came on again. the mechanic that worked on the truck and "fixed" it cannot be found because the dealership has since closed down. so , does temperature affect whatever is happening? (the same tpp code is being sent) can i only drive this truck inthe summertime? my truck has 76,000 miles on it now and it is useless to me if i cannot safely drive it. i have owned,driven, and worked on chevy cars and trucks for the last 20 years and this new generation of wireless throttles have convinced me to never own another one. :lemon: i think i'm gonna go buy a toyota............................
    p.s. i had a little luck with mine if the light would'nt go away after 4 or 5 starts by unhooking the positive battery terminal for 5 mins or so , this usually gives me 6 or 7 trouble free starts before i have to do it again. good luck and if anybody else has this problem and it seems temperature related like mine, please let me know how you finally fix it.
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    Just wondering if you know the Trouble Code(s)? I assume something in the range of:
    P0120, P0122, P0220, P0222, P2135.......
  • yukon03yukon03 Member Posts: 7
    Greetings! I resolved my issue by simply replacing the battery. A low battery will trigger that error code. Good luck!
  • bunchz71bunchz71 Member Posts: 10
    My suggestion would be to look @ post 22 of this forum. I apologize if the picture didnt work before, my photobucket account went inactive for a while since I did not log in. I still to this day do not have any problems with my truck after I replace the harness end. You did say you replaced a lot of wires but in the picture is the one I replaced. Have someone wiggle the wires when it is not in Reduced Engine Power Mode. It may save you a lot of time and money.
  • janinethompjaninethomp Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2006 chevy colorado and have been fighting with the reduced power message for months now....i have taken it to several mechanics and have had the electronic throttle replaced, the map sensor replaced, and the computer re programmed by the dealership....its still doing it!!! Im at a loss...and ready to junk the vehicle I still owe $8000 on it. After paying mechanics $2000 I'm desperatly seeking a solution. Any ideas???

    :mad:
  • haydenbrohaydenbro Member Posts: 1
    We had the same problem with our 02 Denali. I found 2 problems that seem to have fixed the problem. First I replaced the gas cap. Our problem seemed to come up after getting gas, and when i removed it there seemed to be no pressure. After that I found a loose battery connection. I removed the connections, cleaned them and retightened them. So far no more problems.
  • rich136rich136 Member Posts: 1
    I just started to expierence the exact problem with my 2003 1500 HD Cre Cab. MY problem is exactly like yours. I will take your advise and check the wires. Thank you
  • as2359as2359 Member Posts: 1
    T have a 2003 GMC Sierra 2500HD with the 6.0 and when this happens I loose throttle response and engine rpms stays constant at 1200 rpms.
    Well I have had this problem for the last 8 months and I was able to get through it by just shutting down and then restarting. It would last for days and sometimes even months, but the last couple days it had gotten worse and yesturday I read this blog and didn't find any loose wires. I did find that the pressure sensor on the top of the engine, back towards the firewall was connected, but loose. I took the cover off and then the three plate screws and removed the plate. I then diconnected the sensor and wrapped the rubber seal with some teflon tape and this snugged up the connection. Immediately on start up the check engine light cleared and is running great. I hope this helps, and lasts!!
  • bonecollectorbonecollector Member Posts: 1
    I also have a chevy avalanche 2004 and got the reduce power code (2135) I read all of the posting and was thankful for the advise. I replaced the wiring harness to the throttle body... No Good. I then cleaned all the ground wires from the battery to the firewall... No Good. I checked the amount of juice in the battery and it was good charging and off. Then I cleaned the throttle body with a cleaner and... Still No Good. Finally I did the last check and changed the throttle body itself because the throttle sensor is riveted to the throttle body and Walla! The truck was running fine. I have heard in the past postings that it could be any of the above you just have to try and see what works for you. Thanks again, for all those who post their advise it helps! P.S. I do have my old wiring harness and would sell it cheap to help someone.
  • french_canuckfrench_canuck Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    I had the exact same problem for about 6 months. With turning off the ignition for 15 seconds and truck woud work fine again until next time. But the last time it happened, I washauling a 25Ft fifth wheel and got stuck in a mountain region uphill just before a curve with no way up or down. Situation scared the hell out of me, my wife and the kids. I finally took it to a garage and there were three wires from the throttle-body connection cut a few inches away fron the connector. Altough the insulation looked fine, the wires were almost cut inside, probably giving the error code to the throttle-body control hence reducing power engine. Cost me less than 130.00$
    So before changing parts look at these wires from inside even if they look fine.
    The mechanic (who has worked for GM for 12 years) said it was a common problem on these wireless pedal-throttle-body assembly.
  • murkemall13murkemall13 Member Posts: 2
    Hello All,

    I own a 2003 GMC Yukon, recently the low engine power warning and check engine light came on. Here's the kicker...I read all the post and recommendations and even printed the fixes and took them to the mechanic who thought he repaired it after checking the wires, I changed the gas cap to a locking one. The mechanic after being asked to check the wires first, said he removed and reconnected them without problem from the vehicle during test driving. The moment I pick up the vehicle the first time, I get a block away from home and loss of power occurs. Back to the mechanic it goes and I'm told its the Throttle Body that needs replacement. Guess what happen today after about a week....Low Engine Power!!! Please if anyone can recommend a mechanic that has actually repaired this problem, it would be of great service than having a mechanic tell me to "turn the vehicle off then retry to start it" I'm at my wits end here and GMC is not looking too good right now because most dealer mechanics are rip offs anyway. No recall or anything...some help they are.
  • murkemall13murkemall13 Member Posts: 2
    Hi Steve...I too have had this happen in a multi-laned 70 mile per hour roadway. Talk about scared for your life and my family was in the car. To add insult nearly got a ticket for moving too slow. There should be a better explanation from GM about this issue...I guess going back to the old cable and pulley method instead of these so-called electronics is too hard for them to do that might alleviate consumers pouring money into the pockets of mechanics that don't know squat about why this is. I think a Class Action Lawsuit would ruffle some feather or at the very least get some real answers.
  • swinstonswinston Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same issue and I have replaced several sensors from the error code. I have taken it to numerous independent shops and GM Goodwrench locations and still no luck. The problem is fixed while at the shop and comes back after driving off! Did you get yours fixed? If so, can you please share what they did to correct the issue. Thank you so much!
  • njmedicrnnjmedicrn Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 yukon xl and have had so many problems with it since day one, from drive shafts to bushings and ball bearings and now the reduced engine power problem, which a "mechanic" said is the throttle body, which he graciously replaced for $600.00 and said he saved me money by using a pigtail connector for the wires rather than replacing the whole main wire harness.3 months later, still having problems and saw all the wires exposed under the hood. Another "mechanic" said it probably wasnt the throttle body at all but only the wire harness and offered to fix the problem for the low low price of $1500.00. So now, wondering who is right and how to get past this.
  • jim4315jim4315 Member Posts: 1
    I have had this problem on my Tahoe. I have replaced the throttle postion sensor to the tune of $600. That did not fix the problem. I then had the connector changed for $200 and the problem continues. I went to the dealer for some parts for another vehicle and the problem occured in the parking lot so I drove it into the shop. The mechanic found that the throttle position sensor was not working correctly so the replace the thottolr assembly under warranty from when I had purchased it before. THE PROBLEM PURSIST.
    In looking at other forums this is a wide spread problem with the GM fly-by-wire controls
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    jim4315,
    Can you please e-mail me with more information regarding your vehicle (including current mileage) and situation? I look forward to your response.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • barbipixibarbipixi Member Posts: 1
    my bf has a Tahoe as well and just came across this problem today. we are worried about driving it and we bought the vehicle from a CarMax and we don't have alot of money to spend on fixing it if no one can figure out what's wrong?
  • giunick99giunick99 Member Posts: 4
    edited December 2010
    I have a 2003 and a 2007 Denali XL. They both have the same problem and if someone knows a reputable car garage or mechanic that has knowledge about this issue, please let me know, I'm in Stratford - CT. Seems like GM is not caring at all for customers. I'll keep you posted if I fix my problem. And if a class law suit comes up, I'm "ALL IN".
    Bringing to the "STEALERSHIP"seems like not solving the problem for our friends here, and looks like veryone has a different fix that worked (when worked, lol), so it is a factory problem that must be addressed by GM not by our own pockets, I'm REALLY ANGRY!!!!!!
    Thanks.

    Giulianno
  • peoplecmebutpeoplecmebut Member Posts: 1
    somebody help me
  • giunick99giunick99 Member Posts: 4
    Seems like my 2007 had a TPS problem. So the whole Throttle Body had to be replaced and so far, so good. The 2003 still ahving issues but the Reduded engine power problem is no more so far. I'm having codes for my catalyt converter P0230 P0240.

    I'll keep you guys posted.
  • waelbhswaelbhs Member Posts: 2
    I have a hummer h2 sut 2006, I had the light on for 2 hours, than I turned on the car I had the message " reduced power engine" I turned off the car door 1 min so everything went back ok, but the check engine light was still on till next day it turned off by itself.
    Thn after couple of days while driving I had the same message, I turned off the car for couple of seconds thn turned it on everything went back ok again.

    I took it to the dealer they changed the throttle body module, but later I had the same problem
    With these codes : 1516, p 2108 and u0107...
    And driving that huge car in the street and suddenly can't move for an unknown reason that even dealer isn't solving is a bit shame
    Any suggestions?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    peoplecmebut ,
    How can I assist you?
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    waelbhs,
    If you are unhappy with the work that is being done at your dealer I would recommend seeking a different dealer. Please keep me posted.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • waelbhswaelbhs Member Posts: 2
    I would appreciate any idea about my problem, actually I dnt trust these dealers anymore they are so smart in using words, bcz actually I spent my time, being stuck in the streets suddenly and my money that I through it in garbage.... So if u give me a trick or any kind of useful help, it will be more than helpful and I will appreciate it and that will means that the GM do care about their customers and that it deserve the trust that we gave to drive your cars and use your technologie and that GM not just care about the money.
    So how much u dare to help me here?
    One more time I appreciate your quick reply hoping that yr next reply will be useful and helpful
    U2 sut 2006
  • giunick99giunick99 Member Posts: 4
    After 2 new Throttle bodies my cars are like champ again. Not even think in going to the "STEALERS" lots of BS and nothing fixed, the only thing that I need from them are the parts and even needing parts I could get much cheap from GM Parts Direct.

    Good luck folks.
  • jonesey_101jonesey_101 Member Posts: 7
    I have been having this same problem. I have a 2003 Yukon Denali XL.. I have had it in the shop 4 times and its still not fixed. I am afraid to go any where in my vehicle and its scares me when it jumps into the"reduced engine power" "stability system disabled" mode. I have to pull out of traffic and sit on the side of the rode. To travel less than 30 miles I had to pull over seven times. I have read each of your statements and I really don't understand what actually fixes the problem...please somebody help.....
    Thank you for your time.
    Jonesey_101
  • jonesey_101jonesey_101 Member Posts: 7
    I have been having this same problem"reduced engine power" "stability system disabled". I have a 2003 Yukon Denali XL.. I have had it in the shop 4 times and its still not fixed. I am afraid to go any where in my vehicle and its scares me when it jumps into the"reduced engine power" "stability system disabled" mode. I have to pull out of traffic and sit on the side of the rode. To travel less than 30 miles I had to pull over seven times. I have read each of your statements and I really don't understand what actually fixes the problem...please somebody help.....
    Thank you for your time.
    Jonesey_101
  • jonesey_101jonesey_101 Member Posts: 7
    I want to make sure I am understanding correctly replacing "throttle body" fixed the "reduced engine power" "stability system disabled" issue ? I have had mine in the shop 4 times and it needs to go again...I don't have money to keep guessing what's wrong. I trust my mechanic totally..he is a very fair and good man... and has worked on GM cars for years. I can see the frustration in his face when he addresses "the codes" and they don't solve the problem.
    Thank you for any insight...
    Sincerely.
    Jonesey_101
  • jwp1013jwp1013 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same issues and had brought it to my mechanic and the Chevy dealer. They replaced everything from the gas pedal to the wiring harness and still same problem. I refused to give them more money and solved the issue myself. I looked over the the wiring harness that had been replaced by the Chevy dealer and found they did a lousy job splicing the wires together. I cut the wires back another few inches and spliced together and have been smooth sailing since. Hope this helps.
  • seebirdseebird Member Posts: 1
    Hello My Fellow GMC Owners!

    I am posting my recent ordeal with my 2007 GMC Yukon, because I too am extremly frustrated with the incidents and mainly GM, and their poor products, and customer service. Over the last month, I had three seperate incidents whereby I was driving and the check engine light would appear, and within moments, the engine reduced power message flashes, and the vehicle loses power. Luckily, each time I was able to pull over to the side of the road/interstate and out of harms way.

    I took the vehicle to the same GM dealership each time. The first time, they reset codes and cleaned the throttle body. Two weeks later, the incident occurred again. Back to the dealer, and this time, a different set of codes (unsure which ones) and I rode off into the sunset. Only to return three weeks later, with the same issue. On this visit, the decision was made to replace the throttle body.

    Here is my issue - my 2007 GMC has on 77,000 miles and is covered under the 5yr/100,000 powertrain warranty. The throttle body assembly is a covered component under this warranty. In 2010, the warranty was altered by Gm and they no longer cover this part, amongest several others. But this is only for 2010 models and newer! Therefore, models 2009 and older ARE covered. I had to generally go to war with the GM Area District Specialist, about this issue. He wanted to say because they made the changes to the 2010 warranty (removing the throttle body assembly as a covered part), my 2007 vehicle was no longer covered. After a week of constant debating, and the investigaton by a different District Specialist, they covered the part and advised the confusion was their error.

    So, if you have a vehicle with the specified problem and it falls under warranty (within the designated mileage, less than 100k miles) FIGHT to make certain it is taken care of under your warranty. This part is $500+ to repair out of pocket, and you shouldn't have to pay it when it is covered.

    Hope this helps! In addition, I have filed this complaint with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (www.nhtsa.gov), and your complaints can help our problems be elevated to a recall status, and protect others and even safe a life. Go to their webite or call to file the complaint! There is strength in numbers! Also, please see the attached bulletin below. This way you can read it for yourself. Good luck!

    *************************************************************************

    GM Service Operations
    **Urgent Message**
    DCS 412

    DATE: September 21, 2009

    TO: All US GM Dealers, Service Directors, Warranty Administrators and Parts Managers

    SUBJECT: Changes to the General Motors 100,000 Mile/5 Year Powertrain Warranty for 2010 Model Year Vehicles

    This message is to provide information regarding the a few changes to the GM Powertrain Warranty for 2010 model year vehicles. Previous model year vehicles are NOT affected by these changes.

    For model year 2010, General Motors is announcing a slight change in the components that are covered under the 100,000 mile/5 year limited warranty on all light duty cars and trucks. The Warranty and Owner Assistance Information booklets have already been updated with these changes in all New 2010 model GM vehicles.

    The following items have been eliminated from the Powertrain portion of the coverage for 2010, however, they will continue to be covered for the entire length of the Bumper to Bumper Limited Warranty for all GM vehicles. Select components may also be covered by Federal or State Emission coverage. Please refer to the Labor Time Guide and Policies and Procedures (P&P) manual for further details.

    1) The entire pressurized fuel system (in-tank fuel pump, lines, fuel rail, injectors and return line.
    2) The Engine/Powertrain Control Module (ECM/PCM) and module programming.
    3) The Transmission Control Module (TCM), Transfer Case Control Module and module programming.
    4) The Throttle Body Assembly.
    5) Clutch and Pressure Plate for Manual Transmission.
    6) Sealed Wheel Bearing Assemblies or Hub and Bearing Assemblies (axle shafts, seals and bearings that are part of
    complete axle housings are still covered).

    The following items have been added to the Powertrain portion of the coverage for 2010.
    1) Engine oiling system including the hoses, lines and cooler.
    2) Crankshaft Pulley.
    3) Clutch Master Cylinder.

    The GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) and the new Global Warranty Management Investigate Vehicle History screen allows you to identify this new warranty by the abbreviated description under the Applicable Warranties section. The word warranty at the end of the description is abbreviated “WTY”. Previous 100,000 mile/5 Year Warranties have the entire word spelled out.

    See: www.truthaboutcars.com for the full posting of this memo.
  • spectator213spectator213 Member Posts: 1
    I work and a car lot and i had the same problem with 2 of my trucks , i fixed the problem with the first GMC truck changing the battery and the other one was the ground ,.
  • giunick99giunick99 Member Posts: 4
    At least on my case, both cars had the TB with problems. The mechanic that I take my cars for electronic problems is MUCH MUCH more experienced than any other DEALER (per say) specialist and he has lots of years specific in electronic diagnostic trobleshooting, so he's basically like a very good neurological doctor that can answer lots of questions and find solutions where things don't look so logical. I had both cars fixed at the same day, but I want to make it clear that even my guy said other problems can cause the "reduced engine power". So on my case so far so good.
  • bekarussellbekarussell Member Posts: 1
    My mother-in-law is having the same issues with the 'reduced engine power' light. I'm very suprised that there has not been a recall on the faulty parts or even the entire vehicle itself by GMC. This problem can be very dangerous. The most recent incident left my mother-in-law and her 2 children suddenly stuck in the middle of a very busy freeway with no power. I guess once someone reports injury or death then GMC will take action.
  • jonesey_101jonesey_101 Member Posts: 7
    My yukon Denali 2003 is back in the shop for the 6th time. I can't believe GMC doesn't care about its customers more. I was brought up to believe in America and her products but this is really making it difficult. Unless something is done soon. I know I will not ever recommend a GMC or purchase another one myself.
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