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Volkswagen Jetta Starting and Stalling Issues



  • oyepapi24oyepapi24 Posts: 2
    I own an '03 Jetta manual transmission (2.0). For some reason all electrical went off (power windows, radio, lights, clock, etc) when I attempted to start. It appeared as though I had a dead battery, but after a few seconds the lights and all came back on. I attempted to start engine, but all that occurred is that the engine seemed to go through a sequence of checking certain items... power lock on doors unlocked and other clicking/beeping noises came on, but engine did not turn. Then all electrical went off. After waiting a few minutes all electrical came back on, but the same sequence occurred when I attempted to start. Any and all suggestions welcomed!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Did you have your timing belt replaced yet? If not, i'll wager the waterpump is the problem. The impeller on the waterpump is made of plastic that will disintegrate and block the passages in the cooling system at best (which may trigger the coolant migration) or seize at worst - causing the timing belt to strip and break, introducing the possibility of a very expensive engine replacement.

    I had the timing belt changed on my 2003 Wolfsburg Jetta 1.8T (73,000 miles) and my wife's 2003 Passat GLS 1.8T (68,000 miles) - and in both cases the waterpump was on the verge of disintegration (both pumps were replaced with the improved version with a metal impeller).

    If the timing belt/waterpump has been changed before the 80,000 mile interval, I would make sure the coolant level in the expansion tank does not exceed the full line - which is the halfway mark in the reservoir. The upper half of the reservoir needs to be empty so the coolant has sufficient room to expand. Too much coolant in the reservoir will cause the coolant to overflow out of the reservoir - another way of producing the coolant migration condition.

  • taguchitaguchi Posts: 3
    thru march and april here in canada, we had a few cold snaps where the tempearture dropped overnight by 10 degrees or more. My jetta didnt want to start after sitting in the cold on these nights. no problems over prior winters. no problems if I didnt leave the car too long without turning it over. battery and starter working fine. I figured out that i could get it going by letting the starter turn over a few times, then pumping the gas as i released the ignition. Ive heard a few theories from bad gasoline to clogged filter. I've replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump and air filter but the problem returned. My volkswagon mechanic is stumped and says he needs to see it in the "wont start" condition...which means waiting till it gets cold again. Anyone heard of a problem like this b4?
  • I have a 1997 GLX VR6 with the exact same problem. When the car is parked in a hot parking lot and the internal tempeture in the cab is hot, the car will not start. If I roll down the windows and wait for 5 to 20 minutes the car starts. When the cab is cool the car starts with no issues.

    Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix it?
  • I figured out what was keeping my 97 jetta from starting when the temp dropped and humidity went up. It was simply water condensing in my gas tank. a few bottles of water remover has solved my problem. Hope your starting problems are as simple to solve.
  • dnyidnyi Posts: 1
    So, lately my car has been hard to start in the morning for the last few days. I woke up today started it and it finally kicked over after 4 tries when it did the engine revved up to 2100rpms and then came back down to 1500rpms and now it constantly revv's up and down between the 2 like a teater totter. I looked inside my engine and noticed a little white smoke was coming from the engine not much but a little. So then I get back in the car and put it into drive and the revving stops however now its idleing at 1400rpms. I need help on how to fix this hopefully in an inexpensive why please let me know what you think it might be
  • 1997 2.0 jetta gls. aba motor.
    After starting it will run for anywhere from 15 to 45 minutes and then shut down. It will not restart for at least 5 minutes. Upon restart it might never quit again or it might quit after another period of time. It doesn't run rough or give any other symptoms that its going to quit. It just shuts down. No engine light. Looking for ideas.
  • 2002 Jetta tdi -- This car starts right up - runs 1 or two seconds then stalls. Any Ideas?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    You may get more TDI related info from the TDI-specific forums.

    However - starting then shutting off immeadiatly is often related to the immobilizer kicking in. (It thinks the car is being stolen)
  • I just bought a 98 Jetta GL on Saturday for my daughter to drive back and forth to school, the car has 170,000 miles on it! It is in very good shape, and seems to have been well taken care of. I have two issues that I'm dealing with, first, the car stalls. It starts fine and runs well, but stalls freqeuntly. If sitting and idleing it will idle at approx. 1000rpms, and then just shuts down after a few moments!!!! Second issue, low beam headlights won't come on! All dash lights are working, and parking lights are on, high beams will come on, no low beams. I checked the fuses, and they are fine!!!!
  • I've had my jetta for almost 2 months now, havent had any problems until about two weeks ago when a friend noticed i needed a new serpentine belt. Well I havent gotten that fixed yet( was supposed to this weekend) and MOnday my left front blinker went out( i dont know if that has anything to do with this) but the side ones still work. This afternoon I go to start my car and it started all sluggish, taking way longer than normal. It did that twice today and I go to get in my car a third time and put the clutch in, turn the key, starts to go again and clicks and stops. Now it wont start at all, but my radio and everything is still going so I know its not my battery. I'm not too fond of cars(typical female) so I have no idea what else it could be.
  • For a while now I'll get in my car and it will tell me to stop that my engine coolant is empty...and its drained twice in about a month not sure if that would have anything in common with this though lol
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    Lets see if we can help you make the connection here.....

    1)The Serpentene belt drives the ALTERNATOR...
    2)The alternator charges the BATTERY...
    3)the battery starts the ENGINE...

    Does that help you understand?

    To fix.

    1) Charge battery fully (not a quickie 15 minuite)
    2) Replace serp. belt.

    If you have to 2.0L engine, the serp. belt takes about 37 seconds to remove and another 48 seconds to put new one on.

    To replace blinker bulb, it may take about 4 minutes.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    If your engine is losing antifreeze, you may have a serious issue.

    First and formost, check the oil to make sure it is not "milky" in apearance. (antifreeze in the oil)

    After that, you need to determine if it is LEAKING or being burned off as steam out the tailpipe.

    Also, just incase you were not aware..... use ONLY the VW G12 antifreeze. Mixing in any other type of antifreeze can cause gelling and plugging of the cooling system.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Also, just incase you were not aware..... use ONLY the VW G12 antifreeze. Mixing in any other type of antifreeze can cause gelling and plugging of the cooling system.

    Careful, there...she did not say what year her car is. I don't know when VW started using G12, but my kid's '97 was orginally G11 (not G12).

    In addition, people have been known to flush out the G12 and put in the green stuff. Adding G12 in that situation would be just as bad as the reverse.
  • My 1991 jetta gli will not start. It is cranking just fine like it wants to start but with no sputtering. I can hear my fuel pump turn on. Is it a lack of fuel getting to the motor. My the way it is cold because of the snow.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    I appreceate your concern about this. I believe the G12 is the replacement for the G11.

    You are correct that the folks that chose to replace ALL their antifreeze with somthing else REALLY have to be careful about what they are doing. In this situation, an unknowing mechanic may add the wrong stuff.

    Since virtually ALL of the various automakers specify HOAT antifreeze (or even pure OAT)... it is best to stick with what the manufacturer recommends. Intermixing the "green stuff" with any OAT is asking for trouble. To make matters worse, some automakes OAT is actually green.

    Given that the G12 has proven itself to be perhaps one of the best antifreeze elixiers on the market.... I fail to see why anyone would chose to change their system over to somthing which protects the engine less or does not last as long as the G12.

    Indipendant tests have shown that G12 will continue to protect the various engine metals FARRR longer than the "green stuff" which has to be replaced every couple of years to maintain the same level of protection.

    Antifreeze information

    OAT = Organic Acid Technology
    HOAT = Hybred Organic Acid Technology
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I fail to see why anyone would chose to change their system over to somthing which protects the engine less or does not last as long as the G12.

    I agree, yet it does happen.

    My understanding is G11 is an ethylene glycol based anti-freeze. So G12 is not compatible with it.

    My son's '97 is labeled G11, but actually has green coolant in it. I believe G11 would be blue in color. I imagine the previous owner switched just because they had coolant changed and that was what the shop they went to used.
  • wonder if you ever figgured out your problem with stalling?? . have the same problem & am curious
  • I just bought a 2001 jetta 2.0... I thought that I got a pretty good deal on it... it has only 45,000 miles on it... Anyway the day after I bought it the check engine light came on... I didnt think to much of it at first but the next day I noticed that the idle was running kinda rough.. like it was bogging out and then trying to catch back up... The tach would go down to about 200 rpms and then shake and come back up to about 900rpms.. then is started dying while I was sitting at a stop light or something... I took it to the deal and the said that the mass air flow sensor was bad.. so 350 dollars I am back on the road thinking all is fixed.... about a week later the check engine light is on again.. I put the scanner on it and now it say its running to rich bank one.. I dont know what to think. and now its starting to run rough and stall again.. I dont want to spend thousands of dollars trying to figure out what is wrong... Any ideas please????????? I bought it for my girlfriend and all I want is a safe reliable car...PLEASE HELP ME
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