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Hyundai Azera Maintenance and Repair

Since the owners manual doest talk about oil changes, does anybody have details on how the filter drains, where the drain plug is?? I hate to have to buy a service manual just to do minor maintenance.
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Comments

  • wamba2000wamba2000 Posts: 146
    I have not changed the break-in oil yet as the Azera only has 1500 miles on the odometer. I understand the panel that fits over the top of the engine, held on by 6 connectors, needs to be removed to access the oil filter. The factory oil filter is a cartridge, and comes with two gaskets. I would guess one is used for the cover of the oil filter housing; the other might (not sure) be used on the drain plug for the engine. (I have a Honda that requires a new washer every change.)

    As to the drain plug: I have not looked specifically, I will expect it to be on the back side of the oil pan. Won't know til I get there. Sorry couldn't be more help
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Basically what you said, except the two gaskets which come with the new filter cartridge are nitrile or silicone "o-rings". The larger one seals the cartridge housing lid to the housing. The smaller one goes over a nipple on the replacement cardridge prior to installation to prevent unfiltered oil from "cheating" back into the sump. As far as the drain plug is concerned - S.O.P. (standard operating procedure). The hex-head plug is on the back of the sump bottom extension, centered near its bottom. (Unless Hyundai's uncharacteristically changed the size of the engine oil drain plug, a 17mm wrench should be fine for removal and replacement. In a pinch, you should be able to get away with an 11/16" open end wrench, or 6 pt. socket or closed end wrench without danger of rounding off the head. I wouldn't chance a 12 pt. inch-system wrench, though - that's just begging for a rounded-off drain plug head. It would also be uncharacteristic for Hyundai not to provide explicit instructions and diagrams in their owner's manual detailing the oil change procedure. Check the "D0-IT-YOURSELF MAINTENANCE" section.)
  • Was at the dealers on Saturday. The service guy told me the filter wrench is a special one that the auto parts stores dont have. Thats a "gottcha"! The wrench is not listed in the parts fish. Any idea where to get one? So has anybody out there changed their own oil yet? This filter wrench seems to be a big issue just to change your own oil.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    You have two options:
    1) Gingerly remove the oil filter cap using a LARGE set of ChannelLok pliers along with a rag inserted between its jaws and the cap to prevent marring it. But, you run the risk of rounding off the points on the cap with this kludge.
    2) Bite the bullet and buy the genuine, handy-dandy Hyundai oil filter cap wrench, part #: 09263-3C100. (I located the part number in the online Hyundai Azera shop manual's special tool subsection of the "General" section. The accompanying online diagram indicates it slips over the flats of the oil filter cap and has what appears to be a 3/8" square hole to accept a 3/8" drive shank to loosen or tighten.)
  • Great! Thats what I needed. Now my problem is conveying this with the "Dip" in the parts department. He does not seem to know about "Special Tools". At least the service guys are being helpful at the dealership.
  • If one reads the newly posted article on AOL they will see the definite advantages in using full synthetic oil. They recommend using 5-30 weight in most conditions, due to the fact that modern engines are built to high and tight specifications which do not require thick oil to fill improperly engineered gaps. The synthetic oil should provide longer service and provide increased gas milage.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    AOL, eh? Now there's a paragon for up-to-date technical expertise and information... I don't have any fundemental objections to 5W-20, but I won't use that viscosity range in anything I own, either, given my climate that varies from warm (rarely down to +40 deg. F.) to HOT. Hot climate, high compression engine - not a combination I care to entrust my engine to light viscosity motor oils. I'll leave doing that to others. The move to lighter viscosity range oils in the U.S. is purely EPA driven. Failure to achieve mandated EPA fuel economy targets results in stiff financial penalties against the "errant" automaker. Outside the U.S., automakers, both U.S. and foreign, continue to suggest 5W-30 and 10W-30 - and the precisely machined bearing clearances are identical to those for engines produced for U.S. sale. To those who implicitly trust the U.S. owner's manual's recommendation to use 5W-20, good luck and I hope your long term experiences prove my reservations wrong.

    (But, in the meantime, they'll have to tear my 10W-30 motor oil out of my cold, dead fingers... :P)
  • Ray, I agree, I have repeatedly questioned dealer "advisors" about the 5W-20 recommendation in the heat of the Arizona deserts. I think they feel better since 5W-20 is less common and justifies them charging more....less chance of going to the auto parts store to buy your own.

    That's why I change my own oil in my cars. I can make sure get the Mobil 1 or Syntec that I paid for.
  • Band wrench works great. On the Sonotas I have changed i have actually taken the filter off by hand on the first oil changes. (Sonota V6 uses the same filter and setup)

    (I run an oil change shop)
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    )) "(I run an oil change shop)" ((

    You would be a good person to share with us your opinions of who formulates the better motor oils.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Not sure how much of a thickness difference there is between 5W-20 & 5W-30, but in the DC/MD region...they are using the 5W-30. Temps can go up to 100 (summer) down to -15 (winter). With all the hot days we had this past summer, the 5W-30 didn't seem to have any problems and my change intervals were between 3500 - 4000 miles.

    If I recall correctly, the owner's manual does say that you can use 10W-30 or 10W-40 as well.

    I too change my own oil and I've been using the 5W-30 Syntec.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    A lot of times, it seems like it takes forever for parts to come out for a new model vehicle. I love ceramic pads in that you don't get as much brake dust build up on your wheels. I had them on my '02 Sonata and they were great. Here's a link where you can order ceramic pads for the Azera:Azera Ceramic Pads

    image
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    )) "Not sure how much of a thickness difference there is between 5W-20 & 5W-30, but in the DC/MD region...they are using the 5W-30." ((

    You're not hurting a thing running 5W-30. Both 5W-20 and 5W-30 are very close from about +30 deg F. down to -30 deg F., so cold "flowability" isn't an issue. At fully warmed engine temps in hot climates, 5W-30 exhibits somewhat more "body" with less of a tendency to wash off moving parts, but at the expense of slightly reduced fuel economy - in the range of a half mile per gallon reduction. I still run 10W-30 in my '03 Sonata V6 and yet manage 30+ mpg at 70 mph with the A/C roaring. I recently had a congenial discussion with an enthusiastic 5W-20 aficionado and asked him how many tri-initial ultimate driving machine owners he thought run that mouse-milk viscosity in their weekend club day events. He turned a little red and walked off without answering. (Golly - could it have been something I said?)
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Ray_h1...so do you think I should go ahead and switch over to a 10W-30 for the summer months? Does it hurt an engine of you bounce back and forth between viscosities???
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Here in inland southern California we see summer temps over 106 deg. F. for a month and a half. Not Phoenix or Houston hot, but, still hot. (only hit 95 yesterday - a real cold snap...) 10W-30 in the D.C. area during summer wouldn't hurt a thing, but I don't want you to get the idea that it's an imperative. Would I use 10W-30 in your summer climate? Yep. If D.C.'s as humid as I suspect in the summer, your underhood temperatures could well be as hot as the desert southwest since you undoubtedly depend on the A/C - and at that with one setting: full arctic blizzard.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Yeah...the humidity here is nothing to laugh at! I mean...as soon as you walk out your front door you've got a bead of perspiration forming on your forehead. At least out in Cali, you get to walk around before you start sweating! ;)

    I'll keep that tidbit of info in mind. From now on...from about May thru the end of August...I'll put 10W-30 in and the rest of the months I'll go with the 5W-30.
  • wamba2000wamba2000 Posts: 146
    Allmet, I'll add my experience to the discussion. Back when I lived in cold-cold Minnesota, 5W oil was a mandatory, as the engine turned over easier after sub-freezing temps. There was a noticeable difference in 5W vs. 10W based oils.

    I have been lead to believe that 5W base oil is best no matter what climate, as it will flow faster and cover those parts not well lubricated at start up.

    So....I will run 5w-30 Year round in our Phoenix heat. No problems with oil circulation, but the 30 should be better for high temps protection.

    Good luck
  • cap wrench, part #: 09263-3C100 Did you now the price.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    No idea, but someone else posted on one of the Azera discussions recently that a common rubber "strap" wrench works just dandy on these new Hyundai V6 engine cartridge oil filter caps. These strap wrenches usually run about $3.00 plus or minus at most any auto parts store. Word to the wise, these caps seal with an interference-fit O-ring instead of a pressure-loaded conventional gasket. They don't have to be (and shouldn't be) screwed on with the force of a sumo wrestler pumped up on anabolic steroids - just snug enough not to be hand-removable will be sufficient.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Ray,

    Actually...if you just snug it down by hand, the cap isn't seated completely (I found out the hard way on my first oil change). Tightening it by hand doesn't get the seal to seat properly and oil can leak out. The wrench will tighten it just nicely, but listen or feel for a little pop, that means the gasket is seated. If you can take the oil filter cap off by hand...it's not on right.
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