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Hyundai Azera Maintenance and Repair

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  • Buying the oil and OEM filter myself, plus getting rid of the old oil, I have found it much more convenient and cheaper to let the dealer do it. I pay less than $30. Keep in mind Hyundai don't recommend filters other than their own. There is a TSB on the filter. I have worked on all types of cars and trucks for the past 50 years and oil/filter changes I hate doing, even though the 3.8 is a easy one to do.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Paying less than $30...is that for synthetic or conventional oil? Personally, I love the convenience of being able to do my oil change when I want it done and not having to wait in line. I usually purchase my oil, filter and chem-tool (fuel system cleaner) well before I need an oil change so it's on hand for when I'm ready. Once I get started, 25 mins...start to finish and I'm ready to roll.
  • Agree with you. Both my Hyundai and Toyota dealerships provide a free third oil and filter change. Toyota chargs $31.00 and Hyundai charges $35 normally. Also, they check to see if there are any TSB's out on the vehilce and check some other items on the vehicle. This is how I found out I need the stop light work performend under warranty.
  • Has anyone had to R&R the set top SDARS for their radio?

    How difficult is the process? What kind of connectors are on the unit?
  • Yeah, as a matter of fact. They fixed it the second time and we haven't had any problems for 2 months. This time they actually fixed something in the memory settings as opposed to the actual seat.
  • My wife is asking if I can get the Japanese specs so I can give her side of the seat full power, lumbar support and memory :)
  • Has anyone else experienced premature wearing of the rear brakes? I have a 2007 Azera Ltd. bought 2 years ago, drive about 10,000 miles/year. I have always gotten long wear on brakes on other cars. Took the Azera in for an oil change last week and had Goodyear check the brakes just for the heck of it, no problems or noises. They said the rear brake pads were corroded and the rotors needed to be machined. They were surprised as there was normal wear on the front brakes, but the rear brakes were shot, very unusual for a front wheel drive vehicle. I took the Azera to the Hyundai dealer thinking this was a warranty problem. They claim it is not, it is a maintenance item. They said because I did not take the car in for its 15,000 mile service, where they inspect and clean the brakes, that dirt built up in the rear brakes (but not the front?), and that caused the problem, so it was my bad, according to Hyundai service. But I have been reading many posts from Santa Fe and Sonata owners that they also have had premature rear brake wear. I have not been able to find any posts about Azera owners having rear brake problems.

    By the way, I do not have any problem with the Azera's suspension or noise. It does get terrible gas mileage in the cold Michigan weather, about 19.5 right now.

    I am getting ready to contact Hyundai customer service to complain and request a refund of the $307.21 brake replacement costs. I kept the used parts, should I take them to a brake shop and get their opinion?

    Love my Azera, very rare to see another on the road. I bought this car for the long haul, but am concerned about what caused this rear brake problem. Also that the rear brakes had to be machined so soon, is that a concern?
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Donazera,

    Not sure what the issue could be. I didn't have a problem with premature wearing, but they did seem to wear faster than most rear pads on any other car I've owned in the past. I replaced my first front set around 35k miles and the rears needed to be replaced around 37k miles. Normally, the rear pads seem to last twice as long as the front pads. However...since having changed my pads a few times, it has been consistent for the most part. The only thing I can attribute to this is the ESC system as it employs the rear brakes when it senses the car needs it. It may not be noticeable to us as we drive, but it would explain an increase in the wear of the rear pads.

    Wow!!! $307.21 to replace the rear pads!!! I'm so glad I do my own. :shades:
  • donazera

    Check out TSB 08-BR-002. Tells how to correct a squeaking noise from the rear breaks. It seems the pads rub on the caliber making the squeaking noise but also if the pads drag on the caliber they will wear alot quicker. Its a lack of lubrication that causes the problem IMO. As Almet said rear brakes outlast front pads 2-3 to l.

    I had your same problem on my Chrysler 300M, when caliber piston retracted the pads didn't and rubbed on the rotor causing rapid wear. Use to feel the caliber every now and then to see if they were getting hot. To bad you paid so much for a simple repair, could of bought two new rotors and pads for that price, the labor is what got you.
  • Thanks for your reply but I never had any noise coming from any of the brakes. If the rear brakes wore out prematurely, could it be that the ABS was engaging the rear brakes too often, and I would not notice that? I mean, would I notice if the ABS was engaging the rear brakes, or would I not notice that happening?
  • :confuse: Is the window lock switch on the driver side door supposed to be illuminated when you have the headlights on? It is the only switch on the panel that is not. The owner's manual does not specify and I thought I would check here before going to dealership. Thanks.
  • MY car has 33,000 and at the last service they said there was 70% left.Do they do the rotors when they replace the brakes?
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Hey Oskinunker1...most places will tell you that you need to get your rotors turned when they do a brake job. Personally, I haven't turned my rotors yet and I'm on my 3rd set of pads. Just to put it in perspective...my car is getting ready to turn 80k on the odometer. Usually, rotors only need to be turned when you feel a vibration in the brake pedal meaning the rotors are warped due to hot spots (abusive driving) or from having the lug nuts tightened down too much or unevenly. Funny thing is...if it's part of doing the brakes, why does is it a separate charge and so much more than the actual brake job itself? Just like when you get shocks/struts put in, you have to pay extra for the alignment when they are done. Some things just don't make any sense.

    However, back on the topic...I have just put on my 3rd set of pads on the original rotors and have yet to turn them. I have never worn my pads down to the metal, never felt vibration in the brake pedal or anything like that. Only thing I've done is wiped the rotor surfaces down with brake cleaner, spray the pads with brake cleaner and do the install and everything has been fine for almost 80k miles. That's just my experience with the situation.

    By the way...may your new year be happy, safe, blessed & prosperous!!! :shades:
  • Right On (allmet33), I've never heard of anyone who had to have their rear brake rotors turned, almost impossible to overheat the rear rotors under nomal driving conditions. I've cleaned mine with a little metal sand paper and brake cleaner and back on they go. To me its another way for repair shops to make money. Front rotors are usually put on the lathe to clean off the build up pad material that accumulates on the rotor and creates a vibration when applying the brakes. You really have to do some hot stops to warp a rotor. There is alot of good info on the web about brake rotors that would surprise alot people and how shops make extra money on brake jobs. With my 300M, I had a extra set of front rotors that I would have cleaned up and ready for install whenever I did a brake job and my 300M was hard on front pads weather they be ceramic or semi-metalic. IMO the semi-metalic pads were a better pad but they created the black/grey dust on the rims.
  • gamlegedgamleged Posts: 442
    The window lock switch does NOT illuminate...
  • Thanks. It does seem weird though for it to be the only one on the whole panel.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    SilverBullet00...since switching over to ceramic pads, I've never had to worry about build-up. My front rotors have been just as good as my rears to be honest. Take off the caliper, remove the old pads, give all components a good cleaning with brake cleaner fluid, wipe everything down and install the new pads.

    You're right...shops always saying they need to "turn" rotors is a scam and that is where you pay most of the money for a brake job. Funny thing is, you're paying a per-hour fee on something a machine is doing. The tech only has to lock the rotor onto the lathe, turn it on and walk away.
  • allmet33......Usually you wont get any build-up if you burn the pads in after installation and let them cool with a little rotation after a hard panic stop. The build up is what many shops try to sell you as warp rotor. As far a ceramic vrs semi-metallic pads, I like the ceramics for their cleanliness but my 300M didn't. I have anyone say what is on our Azera's, but from the build-up of dust on the rims I have to think they are semi-metallic. By the way have a Happy New Year.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    That's a good thing, to be honest. I believe you are correct about the Azera having semi-metallic pads as OEM pads go. Ever since switching, the rims don't dust up like they did when I first bought the car.
  • So I am going to bring in my 2007 azera limited in for service (if my warranty is not voided by the amplifier and kicker woofer I added - asked about this in another post - will this void my warranty as a side question?).

    I am really having trouble understanding which TSB's I should print up for my car and bring with me to the dealer. Is there any way for someone to post them for me (thank you 100 times) so that I know which ones to bring with me to the dealer to push them for the repairs/replacements. The following is what I am bringing my car in for but any other TSB's I should bring with me I would like to since I am nearly out of the warranty (second owner approaching 60K):

    -I need to bring my car in for the suspension - it is really bouncing all over the place and I hear the knock described by many.
    - when cold the car does not shift smoothly at all it is in fact very rough. It is like the car down shifts prematurely.
    - a whining noise that gets worse when the rpm's go up (in park, neutral, drive or reverse). This has been going on for a little while and has been getting worse.
    - alignment - the car drifts to the right (tire pressures are all okay)
    - vibration when going above 40 MPH (I may have lost a wheel weight or something so this may be resolved by balancing).
    - the seat belts do not always go all the way back up, they have to be assisted. They are always getting caught in the door when I close it (driver and passenger side).

    Thanks so much in advance...
  • You need to get a free registration at Hyundai's service site. Once you're registered, you can look at all TSBs for your Model Year.

    http://www.hmaservice.com/

    No, your adding a woofer won't void your warranty.

    I don't remember the exact TSB for the suspension issue. But on the HMA Service website, it is under the Suspension section.

    There's another TSB for the RPM issue. It is probably listed under the Timing Chain section.

    The cold weather transmission shift issue is not a 'problem', is present in almost all makes. No worries there.

    As long as the seat belts are not knotted, they should go back smoothly. Might not be a big issue, but worth getting checked out. Also, there's a very recent TSB on the seat belt harness.
  • I did register there after my initial posts (it was recommended). But for some reason (maybe I am just reading to much into it) there are lots of TSB's and I am not sure which ones I should walk in with. I will take another look but I personally find it pretty confusing. Thanks for the input... I was nervous to take the car in before finding out about the subwoofer (I am a kid at heart).
  • For the bouncing there is a TSB regarding the front struts but it has to do with the knocking sound. I had to go to 2 different dealers to get them to honor it. As for the other TSBs I don't usually concern myself with them unless it is a safety issue or I am experiencing problems related to it.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    The only part of the warranty that will be voided by adding the amplifer and sub is the warranty covering the OEM sound system. I negated that anyway by installing all new equipment. I did use the OEM amp since it did a really good job to begin with.

    Good luck with the other issues though.
  • My local dealer wants to charge me $79.95 to change my Cabin Filter. What is normal cost for this service?
  • 101649101649 Posts: 192
    If you're handy, you can do it yourself..Go to Wally World and get a disposable A/C filter...remove the current one under the glovebox (instructions are in the owner's manual)...cut the a/c filter (usually 20x20 or 22x24) to the same size as the original and reinstall the new one...you'll have enough left to make a few additional ones...if you want, you can tape the cut edges with duct tape......filter from walmart: $3.00; time to cut and install: 15 minutes; savings: immeasurable...
  • I won't sugarcoat it; Your Dealer is a crook for charging that much. Don't be a victim..

    You should change the filter yourself. It's very very easy & you don't need any tools or any skills. Your owner's manual has instructions for changing the cabin filter.

    Buy a pre-cut cabin filter from Wally world or Autozone or, even from your dealer. Follow the instructions from the manual. You'll be done in under 2 minutes.

    Again, don't let the dealer scam you like that for such a simple service. There's a reason why auto dealer's have such low credibility with the public.
  • Yes, you can change the cabin filter yourself. For me, the trickiest part was opening the space behind the glove box. That took a bit of work. Just follow the instructions in the owner's manual. You have to press in pretty hard on the sides. Of course, the whole time I was worried I would break it. I made my own filter, as suggested here, the first time but then just bought a replacement filter at an auto parts store. I'm a 60'ish woman. If I can do it, anyone can.
  • (See also post 205 which was the first post in this thread to tell you everything you wanted to know about oil changing, and some things you wouldn't think of)

    Update: Just did my 25K oil change. Since that filter's SO big compared to the tiny spin-ons, I decided I'm going to change the filter every other time. All I did was change the oil this time. The Fumoto valve replacing the oil pan drain valve made it a clean easy job, done in several minutes without me having to do anything more than reach under the car behind its right front wheel and flip the valve, then return it to closed when it was done draining. My hands never got dirty.

    The only reason I'm posting this is because I got a great big surprise. A whole six quarts drained out. I expected only five since I never broke the seal on the oil filter housing. It would seem that when the rest of the oil drains out of the pan, that which is captured in the oil filter housing drains out too. This was confirmed by the oil light remaining lit for a couple seconds on the start-up after the oil change. When the crankcase is full, the light goes out immediately.

    THAT'S GREAT. There wasn't a residual quart of old oil left behind. I feel even more comfortable doing a filter change every other oil change from now on.
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