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Hyundai Azera Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    My 2006 has just over 10100 miles on it and i too have a bit of a leak from the top of the engine. I figured that Hyundai would weasel their way out of replacing it under warranty (leak started around the 80k mark). So...instead, I'll just have it replaced when I get the spark plugs done since the have to take apart the top part of the engine while doing so.

    Seals and gaskets sort of do the same thing, but the seal is used to "seal" fluids in or out. Gaskets are more for keeping metal from rubbing by allowing for expansion and contraction as it's porous. Funny how both are wear and tear items, but one they'll replace while the other the won't. :confuse:
  • cobrazeracobrazera Posts: 352
    " Weasel " is a great choice of words. It would appear that the Hyundai warranty is merely a marketing tool and has very little substance. My 4 year old Azera doesn't have a lot of miles, but they have denied a couple of my warranty claims - chipped steering wheel and a plastic cover under the car. A fabulous car, but the long warranty is a joke.
  • I got them to cover that but only after filing a dispute with the agency that regulates them. As soon as I filed the papers , they called. Look in your manual and you will see who to contact.
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    Seal replacement is not too expensive..problem is getting to it...have to remove the intake, etc.....I don't know where the seal is located on the Azera engine, but if it is "up front" it may not be too bad...check with an independent shop for an price..Allmet, where is the main seal located??? Is your leak the seal or valve cover gaskets??? probably either way the intake will have to come off.....
  • approaching 48k and really have not had much go wrong other than some seals which were replaced under warranty.

    This car seems to eat tires. MY BFG's with 22k on them are starting to get noisy. If they last till 30k, I will be lucky. Plus they have a 60k warranty.I do not drive agressively.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Are you running V-rated tires or H-rated tires? That could be a difference maker as V-rated usually are a bit softer than H and don't last as long. Then again, it could just be the compound they are made of.
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    I have an Azera that I don't drive much....What is the recommedation for "dry starts".....1 or 2 times/week; once /month; 2X/month???? I am under the assumption that once the engine reaches operating temp, the contaminates in the oil are cooked away???? Everyone says that dry starts are harmful to the engine I agree, but if you drive a care every other day, you are subjecting it to 3-5 dry starts/week......my main purpose is to minimize dry starts and keep the oil contaminate free......opine
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,975
    It's not so much the dry starts, it's the dry starts combined with not driving the car up to operating temperature. I'd say that if you don't intend to drive it, don't start it up---just keep a battery tender on it.

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  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    I keep a battery tender on it, and also run the car up to operating temp.
  • I have a 12 year old Mustang Cobra that I garage for 4-5 months every year. A fresh oil change with Mobil1 and 45lbs in the tires is all I ever do to prepare it for storage.
    I start it every 6-8 weeks and let it idle for at least 30 minutes. I have never used a fuel stabilizer or a battery charger. The car has 26K miles on it and has no problems and the original battery! The engine is DOHC, aluminum block and heads - the same construction as the Azera motor...Richard
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    Thanks... my Azzy is not in storage, but just don't drive it much...maybe once every 45 days....I start it every week and let it get up to temp for about 20 minutes... I keep synthetic oil in it and change it 2X per year, also use battery maintainer on it...all the engine guys warn about "dry starts" doing damage to the cylinders and/or pistons& rings....IMO, you dry start your daily driver probably 2X every day.....
  • IMO, if you drive it every 6 weeks - that's how often I start my stored Cobra - why do anything special as long as the battery will stay charged that long. Some alarm systems drain the battery more than others: I have friends with C5 and C6 Corvettes and they tell me that they're lucky if the battery will last a month before going dead
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    sounds good...try leaving the hood up on your Azzy overnight and you'll probably have a low battery in the am...just from the alarm sensor, no under hood light...I replaced my Korean battery with the top of the line Interstate Platinum....
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Posts: 213
    After fighting the insurance company the Dealer convinced them that my "short" was a damaged wiring harness in the door which was hit in an accident a year ago.So they charged the insurance company $1400.00. I go away for 4 days and come back and the car won't even turn over. Hyundai road service says sorry you have used you yearly alotment of "Two" jumps. So after calling customer relations they come out and get me going . car now at the dealer. Also the radio is now totally dead.

    A month ago I installed the top of the line insterstate battery.
    2007 Azera with 49k.

    If I am now told it is a short in the radio, I am going to demand they replace it or I will call the insurance company and tell them to ask for their money back.Why the hell is the radio only covered for 36 months? :mad:
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    radio, a/c, battery and some other items are 3/36...check your owner's manual
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Posts: 213
    Bad fuse casued radio to not work. Thats the good news. They are unable to find the short and claim there is no drain on the battery but want to keep the car for several days to confirm.

    Did we decide it is better to lock the doors and activate the alarm when you are going to be gone for a week? Will this cause less drain?

    My guess is when the Hyundai road side service came and jumped my battery it probably blew the fuse.
  • On another Azera forum, moderated by Gamel-Ged, I found the answer to any number of variants of this problem. First my history. Left car at dealer a couple years ago for the dash board replacement, and the battery was dead when I went to pick it up. Quick charge and test showed the battery to be good, and dealer had no idea why battery was dead. I assumed it was due to the trunk left ajar as I frequently got that notice in the dash display. A year later, the same thing happened in my driveway.

    Gamel-Ged sez it's (one of) the security sensors located in the doors, hood, and trunk. If one of those switches isn't fully depressed and you use your fob to lock it, the computer will run the battery down overnight by trying repeatedly to arm the car and failing. The give-away on this is you don't get a chirp when you press the fob's lock button.

    Turns out these switches can often be insufficiently depressed due to an incompletely closed door/hoot/trunk or a deformed or missing rubber "depressor" that fails to comletely close the switch. That explained a LOT of what I've been observing (trunk open light on the dash that goes out on its own) every now and then.

    I'd refer you all to that forum, but my computer crapped out yesterday and this is a new laptop with no internet links yet installed in favorites.

    Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo
  • I noticed in passing that there are several people who drive their car infrequently, but start it up every couple weeks and let it run for 10-20 minutes to charge the battery and drive off any moisture that might accumulate in the oil due to the start.

    First off (particularly in a cold climate), your oil will not warm up enough in 20 minutes of idling to drive off moisture. It needs at least half an hour of operation under load to do this. Frequent starts like this are more harmful than useful. Get a battery tender if the car's going to sit for several months at a time.

    I can't remember now what was Second off.

    Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Posts: 213
    What if you have your car in your garage and don't lock and go away for a week? Better to lock?
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    once the temp gauge shows proper operating temp it shoud be ok??? operating temp does more than just drive off moisture...also "cooks" contaminates than accumulate in the oil from driving the car....I'm in FL, so operating temp occurs quickly....

    I keep a battery tender on mine...20 minutes will hardly charge a battery,,,in the old days, it took about 7 miles of driving to recharge just the juice that was used to start the car..don't know about todays situations
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    I think to "lock and load" would be best...min voltage/amp draw by the armed system as opposed to open switches trying to close or arm..
  • gamlegedgamleged Posts: 442
    Here's a TSB reference on this forum I posted three years ago, with a nod to popeye4 who was likely the first on on any forum to come up with a fix:

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1037a2/25#MSG25

    To wit:

    TSB 07-90-008
    JULY, 2007
    AZERA (ALL) & VERACRUZ (ALL)
    INCREASED CURRENT DRAW ON AZERA AND
    VERACRUZ VEHICLES WITH HOOD OPEN

    This bulletin is provided for informational purposes on normal vehicle operation.

    DESCRIPTION:
    Opening the hood on Azera and Veracruz vehicles will ground the security system’s hood input switch. Grounding the hood input switch places the security system module (incorporated into the BCM) into a readiness standby mode.

    While in standby mode, the BCM consumes an increased amount of current that may discharge the vehicle battery if the hood is left open for several hours or overnight.

    Displaying or Storing the Vehicle
    To avoid discharging the battery while displaying the vehicle on a showroom floor (hood open), a self-regulating automatic trickle charge may be connected to the vehicle battery. If the vehicle is to be left parked with the hood open and accessory power is not required, the Power Connector on the interior fuse panel should be removed.
  • I don't know if locking or leaving unlocked makes any difference. If something's not secured, and you try to arm the alarm, it's my understanding that this is what drains the battery.
  • The temperature gauge is not a true indicator of the oil temperature. Several non-controlled "experiments" that I've heard of indicates that it takes about 30 minutes for the oil temperature to reach steady-state operating temperature. The coolant temperature, OTOH, will usually come up to operating temp within 5-10 minutes depending on the ambient temperature. It's only after the oil temp reaches full operating temperature that moisture will start to boil off.
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    what do you consider "stesdy state operating temp" for motor oil?? Engines don't survive will over 250* F....oil is cooked and the affected bearings are "coked over" and fail... with coolant temps near 200* and exhaust manifold temps 700* or hotter, it appears that a lot of that heat will be transferred to the oil.....a main function of motor oil is cooling the parts that it is lubercating Where did you find the non-controlled and probably unscientific experiments that you mentioned.???.....The AIP website will help you with oil facts....
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Posts: 213
    Just go a page of them. One for a front or rear brake job including turning the rotors for $239.00.This seems like a deal and I do need Brakes. I wonder if they target people they know need a particular service?

    Anyway with my audi A6 the cost would have been more than double this and they would have insisted on replacing the rotors.Have 50k on the car.
  • jkolehjkoleh Posts: 38
    As I'm approaching the 60M mark on my 2007 Azera, decided to do some price checking for the severe servce maintenance schedule cost. Dealer where I bought car (AKA rip-off center) wanted $1,000. Second dealer in area quoted $500, and local BP car care center quoted $298, all for the same service. Moral to the story--shop around.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Yeah...$200+ is the reason why I started replacing my own brake pads. In most cases, getting the rotors turned is a scam. They charge you for an hour's labor even though it takes them a few seconds to put the rotor on the machine and turn it on...the machine does all the work. The only time you really need to have them turned is if you feel any vibration when you apply the brakes (which indicates warped rotors). I've had my Azera for 5 years with 108k miles on it and have yet to turn the rotors. Pad replacement is quite simple on these cars and I use ceramic pads by Akebono and haven't been happier.

    In regards to Audi...I found a great spot that replaced my wife's front rotors & pads (ceramic) for about $350. Audi wanted that price to just replace the rear pads with semi-metallic pads (no rotors).
  • yaqui1yaqui1 Posts: 6
    The manual for my 2009 Azera GLS (3.3 liter) calls for 10W-30 every 7,000 miles but for severe conditions (which is not my driving) the oil should be 5W-20 every 3,000 miles. That makes sense to me.

    What puzzles me is that the dealer uses the 5W-20 without asking about my driving and I instruct him to use the 10W-30. I'm assuming he's just 'enhancing the revenue' of the service department.

    However, despite the manual, the oil filler cap on my engine says: "See Owner's Manual", "SAE 5W-20 GF3". Does anyone know how this contradiction in instructions has been settled?
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Hmmmmmmmmmmmm...curious. I use 5W-30 (Castrol Edge) and i change my oil every 7500 miles.
This discussion has been closed.