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Hyundai Azera Maintenance and Repair



  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    I think to "lock and load" would be best...min voltage/amp draw by the armed system as opposed to open switches trying to close or arm..
  • gamlegedgamleged Posts: 442
    Here's a TSB reference on this forum I posted three years ago, with a nod to popeye4 who was likely the first on on any forum to come up with a fix:

    To wit:

    TSB 07-90-008
    JULY, 2007

    This bulletin is provided for informational purposes on normal vehicle operation.

    Opening the hood on Azera and Veracruz vehicles will ground the security system’s hood input switch. Grounding the hood input switch places the security system module (incorporated into the BCM) into a readiness standby mode.

    While in standby mode, the BCM consumes an increased amount of current that may discharge the vehicle battery if the hood is left open for several hours or overnight.

    Displaying or Storing the Vehicle
    To avoid discharging the battery while displaying the vehicle on a showroom floor (hood open), a self-regulating automatic trickle charge may be connected to the vehicle battery. If the vehicle is to be left parked with the hood open and accessory power is not required, the Power Connector on the interior fuse panel should be removed.
  • I don't know if locking or leaving unlocked makes any difference. If something's not secured, and you try to arm the alarm, it's my understanding that this is what drains the battery.
  • The temperature gauge is not a true indicator of the oil temperature. Several non-controlled "experiments" that I've heard of indicates that it takes about 30 minutes for the oil temperature to reach steady-state operating temperature. The coolant temperature, OTOH, will usually come up to operating temp within 5-10 minutes depending on the ambient temperature. It's only after the oil temp reaches full operating temperature that moisture will start to boil off.
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    what do you consider "stesdy state operating temp" for motor oil?? Engines don't survive will over 250* F....oil is cooked and the affected bearings are "coked over" and fail... with coolant temps near 200* and exhaust manifold temps 700* or hotter, it appears that a lot of that heat will be transferred to the oil.....a main function of motor oil is cooling the parts that it is lubercating Where did you find the non-controlled and probably unscientific experiments that you mentioned.???.....The AIP website will help you with oil facts....
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Posts: 213
    Just go a page of them. One for a front or rear brake job including turning the rotors for $239.00.This seems like a deal and I do need Brakes. I wonder if they target people they know need a particular service?

    Anyway with my audi A6 the cost would have been more than double this and they would have insisted on replacing the rotors.Have 50k on the car.
  • jkolehjkoleh Posts: 38
    As I'm approaching the 60M mark on my 2007 Azera, decided to do some price checking for the severe servce maintenance schedule cost. Dealer where I bought car (AKA rip-off center) wanted $1,000. Second dealer in area quoted $500, and local BP car care center quoted $298, all for the same service. Moral to the story--shop around.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Yeah...$200+ is the reason why I started replacing my own brake pads. In most cases, getting the rotors turned is a scam. They charge you for an hour's labor even though it takes them a few seconds to put the rotor on the machine and turn it on...the machine does all the work. The only time you really need to have them turned is if you feel any vibration when you apply the brakes (which indicates warped rotors). I've had my Azera for 5 years with 108k miles on it and have yet to turn the rotors. Pad replacement is quite simple on these cars and I use ceramic pads by Akebono and haven't been happier.

    In regards to Audi...I found a great spot that replaced my wife's front rotors & pads (ceramic) for about $350. Audi wanted that price to just replace the rear pads with semi-metallic pads (no rotors).
  • yaqui1yaqui1 Posts: 6
    The manual for my 2009 Azera GLS (3.3 liter) calls for 10W-30 every 7,000 miles but for severe conditions (which is not my driving) the oil should be 5W-20 every 3,000 miles. That makes sense to me.

    What puzzles me is that the dealer uses the 5W-20 without asking about my driving and I instruct him to use the 10W-30. I'm assuming he's just 'enhancing the revenue' of the service department.

    However, despite the manual, the oil filler cap on my engine says: "See Owner's Manual", "SAE 5W-20 GF3". Does anyone know how this contradiction in instructions has been settled?
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Hmmmmmmmmmmmm...curious. I use 5W-30 (Castrol Edge) and i change my oil every 7500 miles.
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Posts: 213
    The reason it's $1000.00 is because they are doing things not required in the manual. Like replacing the spark plugs. These cars require so little service that the dealers are always trying to add things to make money.When I ge there i will give them a list from the manual and ask for a quote.Then again, maybe I should just go to the gas station across from my office.
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Not sure what is involved in the lower price quotes you've received, but I do know that everyone I've taken my Azera to just to get the spark plugs changed was a $260 (min. quote) to get done.

    I know one thing, I am currently knocking on 110k miles for my Azera and i'm still running on the original plugs. The only thing I've been doing is making sure I keep my oil changed, keep the transmission & radiator serviced and replace the air and cabin filters every so often.

    Usually, you pay for the mark-up on the dealer parts. I buy my parts through and have a place that installs them for me.
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    they have to remove the intake to replace plugs (they will want to do throttle body (gasket) and injector service when they do the plugs) also mark-up on irridium plugs by the dealer is about $16/plug......$$$$$$
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    Has anyone tried the new synthetic bio-derived G oil??? Saw it @ Wally World and it was only 1 weight available (5W-30).....Cost $26 for 5 qts, but there is a $13 rebate on their website.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Has anyone upgraded their OEM headlights to the HID's? I bought a kit from Xentec, but it's not exactly plug-n-play. Was wondering if anyone else has ordered one that was simple plug-n-play or if there's an adapter that needs to be purchased.
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    I haven't upgraded, but what I understand is that the HID's require heavier wiring harnesses and a ballast system......they are essentially like an welding system since they generate a lot of heat to get the gasses to burn in the bulb .....I put Sylvania ultras in my 4 headlights and am very happy....what is the cost of an after market HID kit?
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Actually...the HID kit comes with everything you need to make the upgrade. The power to the ballast comes from the OEM bulb plug. I was able to do my install in about 20 mins. The hardest part was figuring where to stash the ballasts. I pulled the headlight housing out and used the double sided tape they provided and stuck them on the inside of each fender. So far, so good!!!

    I only paid $32 (free shipping) for my HID kit on eBay. I know what the Sylvania Ultras cost per pair and you'll probably be replacing those before I replace an HID bulb. Also, the output from the HID's is much brighter than the Ultras (I've had those before myself). I'm so glad I finally did it, I'm also glad I waited because when i first wanted to do it, the HID kits were $150 and upwards. What I may do is get a pair of the Ultras for my high beams though.
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Posts: 213
    edited June 2011
    What booklet is it in. Have checked owners manual and owners handbook and can find nothing.

    Just noticed a coolant leak. Have 51k on the car. Purchased 8/2007
  • oskidunker1oskidunker1 Posts: 213
    They found the leak and did the following which would have cost $1000.00 without the Warranty covering it! 51k on the car.

    Leak coming from under oil filter body housing. also leak coming from water pump housing and oil filter body.. gasket intake man gaskets o rings etc.

    Ralph at Camissa motors in Burlingame was excellent as always.
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