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Dodge Ram Transmission Problems



  • I have a 2006 Ram 1500 Quad cab with the 5.7 multi displacement Hemi. On cold and cool mornings or evenings when I start it and place it in gear the transmission will sit there from anywhere of 3 to 6 seconds before it to engages. It's still under warranty and the dealer tells me this is normal. Has anyone else heard of this?
  • my 94 4x4 1500 318 auto did some Very weird stuff* tonite.
    i went and replaced the egr valve at advance..when i went to leave,the truck literally wouldnt go into ANY gear..i tried revving,etc,no dice..when i shut the truck Off tho,and restarted,it went into 1st....i tried to drive it home,but it was refusing to go from 1st to any other gear....i finally figured out that if i shut the truck off,then restarted it and put it in gear,it would pull off to about which point it would flash and no gears....i made it to about 2 miles away,and this time when i did the restart,the truck pulled off Strong and All 3,like,wtf?...then,i get home and revved it,its fine..took it out of gear,put it back in,and im back where i started,no gears..just exactly what in the hell is wrong with this thing?
    any help would be appreciated.
    Edit:btw,the guy at advance did a scan,Before this happened,With the truck running..
    i asked him if it should be off first and he said no?
    the truck Never did this until he did that scan,im wondering if he messed it up somehow,by testing it running?
    the codes came up as code 31 and some weird code hex4??
    again,thanx in advance for any help..Brokedown in New York.
  • yes,because the trans gets no fluid until you either put it in gear or Neutral..the front pump doesnt activate in thing to do is to put it in neutral Before you put it in any gear..let it flow some fluid Then put it in gear....there is a way to redo the trans with a special valve to cure this/no fluid pumping in park/,but it is a rather expensive fix.G/L,rob
  • Code 31 is a problem with the canister purge solenoid circut. I can't help with hex4 as my list only goes from 11 to 72 on OBD-1 equipped trucks.
    To get the codes manually cycle the key in the following order: on-off-on-off-on but do not start the engine. Watch the check engine light, it will flash. A short pause between flashes will indicate the 2nd digit and a long pause will indicate the beginninng of a new code. When the cycle is complete you will get code #55
    Check with your local dealer to see if the engine should be running or off when using a diagnostic code reader.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Whether or not the engine should be running depends on what test you are running and if your scanner is capable of reading those tests. Example: Engine ya gonna check that without the engine running?
    Even the older OBD1 systems had some capability to make tests with the engine running.
  • This past week the transmission on my 02 ram (5.9 4X4)started slipping. Now it only shifts from first into third after 50 MPH and then makes what seem like mini shifts. Still feels like it slips at low speeds. It was 3/4 qt low on fluid and I see some rodent bites in some wires but can't find any cut lines or vacume lines. What is going on??? Engin lite is on so I am going to the dodge dealer asap. Any ideas outthere?
  • Yes I spoke to the service manager and he showed me a service bulletin that states that it can take up to 3-6 seconds after the vehicle has sat for 8 hours or more. I guess the fluid drains from the torque converter. He didn't say if this was a defect in the transmission or if a fix was coming. Just said that once it was placed in any gear other than park the pump would kick in and once the pressure was up 3-6 seconds there shouldn't be any problem. Any way thanks for the response. PS what is the fix
  • i`ve learned a lot in the past 3 days,but my trucks still has no codes,yet it doing the same thing..start it,put it in gear it works fine,change to park then back and no gears..gotta be something guy says limphome mode.?im just praying for a good answer.

    as far as a good value for fixing trannies that Are`nt Broken YET,heres a kit.
    if you really want some performance,check out this page,its full of options for our trucks.
    sluggo33,the part you need is listed on that page,its a tube that allows the convertor to be fed in

    #SC-46/47RHE. The Sure Cure Transmission Reconditioning Kit, Parts in one box to cure common root-cause problems. Sonnax is pleased to announce our 46 / 47RH / RE (518 / 618) application-specific kit to provide rebuilders with a full complement of parts in one box to cure common root-cause problems. Sonnax Sure Cure™ kits will simplify decisions for transmission rebuilders by providing the best Sonnax fixes in one box with detailed, step-by-step instructions, and all orderable by one part number. Cost $148.00

    good luck,and if anyone knows whats up with my truck,please reply.
    so far ive heard the computer needs to be reprogrammed,reflashed,bad convertor,bad wiring,bad sensors,etc etc..the baffling fact is that it Will work fine,Once..but take it out of gear and its gone....

    o,the best part,i bought another 94,360-2wd 1500 longbed so i would have something to drive ,guess what happened on the way home?
    yep,trans acted weird..SIGH!!!!!
  • [quote=rollerdoo]I am also getting a fluxuation in rpm at highway speeds. You can hear and see the variation in rpm. At 70mph with the cruise set it will bounce about 300rpm. So if the rpm is steady at 3000 it will bounce up to 3300. Its almost like a mini slip. I was told it could be my lock up converter going bad. Any info would be great.[/quote]

    I am having the exact same problem. According to a response on this forum, it sounds like some of the likely solutions are replacing the tps, or shift solenoids. Are there any other likely problems that I should look into concerning this problem?

    It also sounds like wiring problems are not uncommon on these systems. I live in Arizona, and I have had more automotive wiring problems (I have 9 cars) since I moved here than I ever did in Oregon. It's phobably not a bad idea to go around the tps connections, transmission wiring connections etc. with a tube of dielectric grease. This has solved many of my wiring problems in the past.

    Since this seems to be a common problem with these trucks, why do I not see any receall or service bulletins? Maybe Chrysler would not be the fourth best selling auto manufacturer (Toyota is kicking their butt these days) if they treated their customers a little better.
  • skkatskkat Posts: 1
    The transmission in my father's 1996 Dodge 1500 pick-up recently went out. He took it in to have it re-built. The person working on says they have rebuilt the transmission but it still won't shift into first gear. The have told him it is due to the computer and the pcm needs to be replaced to fix the problem. Does this sound legitimate?
  • but the tranny probably didnt need to be rebuilt in the first place....according to various sources,and dodge dealer here in ny,the computer needs to be reflashed,or retrained.NOT REPLACED
    thats what they claim is wrong with my truck.
    im waiting for my appt to see if they are right.
    they also say,and i kinda believe them on this,that if you have dextron of any sort in the trans,it needs to be drained out and ONLY ATFPLUS4 should be put into any dodge automatic trans..All Chrysler four-speed automatic transmissions* are very sensitive to the quality of the transmission fluid. Only use the ATF+[3 or 4] in these transmissions. Do not use Dexron or Mercon.

    something to do with the lubrication quality of the fluid,messes stuff up.
    also,Dont Let Anyone whos not qualified to run a scanning tool touch your truck!!
    my truck is currently in limphome mode,(ty advance auto)which im betting is the problem with yours as well SKKat.
    to test this theory
    start truck put in you have partial 1st?of any kind?
    now shift to park,and back to first..anything?
    if nothing,shut key OFF and then restart to see if you have 1st gear again.
    if so,then get the computer reflashed Before you spend a dime on the transmission.
    hope this helps,may or may not be the answer,but after going thru the wringer on this for the past week now.......
    btw,just for kicks,try this too,it didnt work for mine,but hey maybe...
    take off the battery cables overnite,Both of them and try again in the morning..if you have gears make sure that you have the trans module retrained.
    heres a link to the allpar page,its very good reading and explains a lot better than i can.
    also,for those of you who have wondered if chrysler knows about its defects,check this page out,warning,make sure you are sitting down first,its kinda brutal.
    again,i stress that i know little to nothing and im just hoping this helps people out..g/l,rob
  • I am having the similar problem. Mine won't shift from 2nd to 3rd. Did you happen to find the problem??
  • I talked to a transmission specialist the other day about my Dodge. He seemed very knowlegable, and came highly reccomended.

    He says that the rpm fluctuations that I'm experiencing at highway speeds are caused by the lock up torque converter cycling on and off when it shouldn't. This symptom may be caused by any one of a number of bad electrical connections.

    If the battery has corrosion on one of the posts, then that is a possible cause.

    There are two computers that can have a bad ground. I believe that each computer has it's own ground. Cleaning the grounds / scratching the paint at the ground can cure the problem.

    A faulty ground at the battery can cause this problem too.

    The last possible cause that he mentioned was a bad tranny fluid pump. Some times these pumps leak between the front and back of the pump. Sounds spendy.

    Hopefully I can gear my problem with a little wire brushing.

    By the way, now that it is getting cooler here, I have experienced my transmission not wanting to go into gear. You guys were right, placing the transmission in neutral seemed to take care of the problem. Thanks.
  • Dusty,
    I have a 99 2500 with a V10 and a 47RE Trans. I'm having the same problem with only 65,000 miles on the truck. RPM started bouncing +/- 200 at freeway speeds. I had it machine flushed with ATF+3 and a new filter/gasket put on. about one month later I lost 1st gaer and overdrive. I'm being told that I now need a $2,200 rebuild. What do you think? Sandman :confuse:
  • Hey hotvfr, I had a similar problem with my 2002. Only I lost 3rd gear. It ended up being the Valve Body. The plate is too thin, causing the spring to push thru the plate. They replaced the plate with a thicker one and added a couple extra screws. Also, they put a shim inside the spring allowing constant pressure so the spring won't "slam" into the plate. When I dropped the pan I was able to see the problem. It cost me approx. $900.
  • hey, my truck has been running fine and the other day my tranny started slipping on the way home. when i got it home it wouldn't make it up the drive way. i can cut off the truck and let it sit a while. start it up and it will go right in gear (almost like it just has to cool off). but it will only go about a block down the road and it will die off like it goes in neutral. the hasn't been any grinding at all just a little whining. is my tranny gone or what?
  • the lower transmission line going to radiator,cut it off at steel end,replace that rubber line and install a tranny cooler as well.
    there is a little stupid check valve in that line,which can become was a factory design,to restrict the fluid,and is not what you need or want in there.
    just change it out.
    do NOT remove the whole end thats attached to radiator as it is plastic and you Will be screwed if it comes out of the radiator.just cut the lines short at the radiator,and leave them Alone!
    the tranny cooler will help a lot as well,and will be super easy to install,you just attach your lines and clamp then good,then zip tie the cooler to the radiator.

    your best bet is to drop the pan and check the filter,drain As Much of the fluid as you can.
    why,because you basically smoked the trans fluid to nothing..its worn out/burnt.
    you need to get as much as possible out of that trans.

    when you refill the tranny,
    make sure you use the ATF+4 Nothing else!!
    yes,i know that is expensive stuff,but its the only way.
    this is all just a good luck shot,as they are tough trannys,but you def ran that one hot.
    it either will or wont work..yes,i understand thats a bit of change for the fluid/10-12 quarts @4 bux a quart,and a filter,7 bux
    but thats a lot cheaper than a 1500-2800 rebuild.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    Yes. I have the same transmission stuck on the back of a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD (Turbo diesel). If the trans sits for more than four hours (at least on my Jeep)the torque converter and other parts drain back into the trans pan.

    I suggest that you let the engine idle for about fifteen seconds before putting in gear.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    This question for those of you who have HEMI powered RAM trucks with the five speed automatic.

    Have any of you had torque converter failures or has Dodge done a recall on this transmission?

    Here is the problem. I own a Jeep Liberty CRD (MY 2005). The 2.8L turbo diesel generates 295 lb-ft of torque @ 1800 RPM. I get 80+% of torque starting at 1400 RPM, peaking at 1800 RPM and falling off at 3200 RPM. The recall states that the torque converter will need replacement and the engine will need to be detuned a little to reduce the amount of torque it generates. The reduction in torque will enhance torque converter durability and transmission durability too.

    Any information is appreciated.
  • I have a 98 ram 1500 318 auto, the tranny is taking forever to shift into second, no slippage, just waits till about 3,500 rpm to shift, unless i let off the gas a little.all other gears seem just fine, any ideas??
    thanks :confuse:
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