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Dodge Ram Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    What year vehicle and how many miles?

    Do you have reverse?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • ArazuArazu Posts: 8
    1998 with 122K. Yes I do have reverse.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Well, the fact that the gear positions do not align with the gear you are in indicates a gearshift cable or Transmission Range Switch problem. The fact that you have reverse immediately eliminates a front servo or kickdown band being at fault.

    I do not believe that manual shifting at a high RPM has cause this problem either. The fact that you were at full throttle might have pushed the Throttle Position Cable into a bind area or the Throttle Pressure Lever is stuck in the wide open throttle position. This would definately cause the exact symptoms you are describing, except for the gearshift alignment problem.

    You may have two problems at once in this case.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • ArazuArazu Posts: 8
    I don't have a cable from the shifter to the transmission. It's all solid linkage. I double checked adjustment by placing the vehicle in park, loosening the adjustment bolt, manually moving the transmission range lever (Is that what you mean by range switch?) to park and tightening the bolt. I should note that the lever correctly aligns with the notches on the column. It's just the indicator that is incorrect. Is that adjustable?

    I checked the throttle lever on the transmission and it was in full idle position with the vehicle off and in park. I didn't check for proper sync. between that and the throttle cable. I'll look for a bind tonight.

    Thanks for all of your help. I appreciate that people like you are willing to spend some time to help people like me save a lot of money and learn something in the process.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Maybe I missed it or forgot to ask, but what year is this RAM?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I should add that your problem could be a loose/out-of-adjustment, or burned Front Band.

    Dusty
  • ArazuArazu Posts: 8
    It's a 1998. I'll look into the band adjustment as well.

    Thanks!

    Edit: How do I tell if the band is burnt?
  • have a 99 dodge, 1500 pu, 4x4. trans seems to be slipping. pulled out on e-way, going about 55, i trompped it, to get up to speed, and it acted like it was in neutral, and the rpm went up, without corresponding mph, i backed off quickly, and it just went back to the way it was, and i slowly built up the desired speed. a couple of other times, when taking off quickly, it acted simular, with the rpms being higher than the mph, like i was slipping or spinning on ice. are there any vaccum lines, or modules like on the older trucks, someone said these are all electrical. perhaps a bad wire? i have 89,000 miles on truck, and it will see its 10 th birthday in one week.---------jackson20
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Sometimes you can detect a burnt smell in the fluid, but not everybody has a nose for this method. Most people may not be able to notice a weak burnt odor, either. The only real way is at tear down.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • ArazuArazu Posts: 8
    Argh. I knew you were going to say tear down.

    After some further research I'm pretty sure it's something to do with the front band. That would explain the bad 1-2 shift and the poor handoff between the front and rear bands during the 2-3 shift. I just hope it's adjustment. I didn't have a chance to look last night.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    For all the hokey, mischaracterizations and just plain bulls*** about Chrysler transmissions, worn clutches and bands are not that prevalent in RH and RE series when compared to Ford, and even more so, GM truck transmissions. It happens, of course, but usually when there's a combination of poor transmission maintenance, high mileage, and stress. This is often most common around here on vehicles that plow snow or landscapers that tow...often beyond the truck's rating...trailers and heavy equipment.

    What is far more common on these is a broken servo or a band lever that's fallen off.

    When a band lever falls off it's usually because the servo is stuck or broken, but I hear techs say that sometimes on high mileage units they'll come off if the transmission's never had a band adjustment. You'll need to pull the pan down in order to see this, of course.

    Then again, at this mileage they are often judged by transmission shops to need a rebuild. Many times when they don't need it. Mopar trannies are about the easiest to work on and the basic architecture hasn't changed since the original A727. Shops don't make as much money on transmission repairs, but they do on rebuilds and they feel more secure about a satisfactory repair by tearing it down and rebuilding one. A lot of independent shops hate Chrysler because they were the first to go electronic, which disabled them for many years in properly diagnosing problems and effectively shutting them out of repair business. This is still quite prevalent in the industry, I'm sorry to say.

    If you take this Dodge to an independent repair place, I'll bet the chances are they'll tell you it needs a rebuild. Be interesting to compare the old bands and clutches with new ones. There have been some upgrades to the 46RE since '98, so I'd advise inquiring about what they will do to modify and install and revisions.

    Best of luck,
    Dusty
  • ArazuArazu Posts: 8
    Thanks for all your help. It's time to take it in. I went to adjust the band and drove the bolt all the way into the case without reaching even 20 in/lbs of torque.

    Thanks again!
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Have you pulled the pan? It sounds like the band lever has possibly fallen off or the band has worn down to the strap..

    Best regards & Merry Christmas!

    Dusty
  • My 1999 2500 stalls when shifted into reverse when engine is warmed up, and twice has stslled in drive when stopping from highway speed. Any Suggestions?
    Thanks, Berry
  • Hi Sometimes when I try to start my 01 2w drive 5.2 litter it would not start because it didn't seam to be in park compleatly so I would tap the shift lever up or slip it down to neutral to get it to turn over the other night I thought the shift lever broke but it is the part the shift lever is connected to. My question is do know if that part can be replaced or do I have to replace the whole steering column
    Thank you Popieswhip
  • Maybe putting an aftermarket floor mount shifter would be better than replacing the steering column but I'm not sure what tranny is in my truck and don't know what shifter will work with that tranny. Thank You for any info. you have
    Popieswhip
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    What engine and how many miles on the vehicle?

    Do you experience harsh initial engagements when going from park or neutral to another gear?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    No, you do not need to replace the entire steering column.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • It's a 360 Magnum and it has 89300 miles. No it does not make harsh engagements.
    Thanks,
    Berry
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Appraising the symptoms, I'm not sure its really a transmission problem.

    The transmission contribution to stalling would have to be something like a locked torque converter, a stuck front or kickdown band, or excessive hydraulic pressure. Excessive pressure could be caused by a defective Govenor Pressure Sensor or even a dirty valve body. A locked torque converter would cause stalling in a forward gear and probably also present you with some harsh overall shifts. A stuck band (applied mode) could be caused by a stuck servo.

    My apologies, that's all I can think of at the moment.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • i have reverse and first gear but no 2nd or 3rd. could my tourque converter be bad or do i need to rebuild any help would be great thanks frank
  • Thanks. it gives me some ideas anyway.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Frank,

    If the converter was bad you wouldn't have a first or reverse.

    Because of the age of your vehicle, I would first check the electrical connections at the transmission for corrosion. If you loose the circuit to the valve body or electronic governor it will cause this problem. This is very common on older vehicles, especially those in high moisture/snowy environments.

    Beyond that you could have an inoperative front servo (broken or stuck) or a bad kickdown band.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • thanks i will give that a try
    frank
  • I have a 97 Dodge ram 1500 4x4 short box. When I put it in 4 wheel drive it sqeaks in the front end and sometimes when it is in 2 wheel drive. Can anyone give suggestions of what the problem may be? Thank you.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Assuming that this noise is never present when in two-wheel drive, turning, or the suspension is loaded and unloaded, I would begin by suspecting the front U-joints.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • I have a 95 dodge ram 1500 4x4 auto trans and 360 engine that has no reverse and will move forward but still tries to move forward in neutral and is under load even in park. I pulled trans out and partially dissasembled, the front band is smoked and the clutch discs I have looked at are burnt and warped. I removed the input shaft and intermediate shaft assem, dissasembled the front clutch with out problem but cant get the rear clutch apart that contains the planetaries and clutch pack, the input shaft and splined hub will wiggle but wont seperate from the planetaries. I have a tech book but doesnt give alot of detail on how that should seperate! Anyone know the answer to this?
    Thanks drew_blue
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I think what you are trying to remove is the Intermediate Shaft and Planetary Gearsets. Do you have the transmission mounted in a vertical position? That's the recommended disassembly & reassembly position.

    Sometimes trying to work on them laying on a bench horizontally puts side forces on the end of the shaft and makes removal difficult. If need be, make or use a tool to grab onto the Low/Reverse Drum to move it outwards.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • Thanks thats good news Do you know if I can get that from a pull-a-part or should I go directly to dodge or do you know a place I can get the part number All your help is appreciated
    Thank You popieswhip
  • I have the input and intermediate shaft out of the case but cant get the input hub to seperate from the intermediate shaft and gear set.

    Thanks drew-blue
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