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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • gonogogonogo Posts: 869
    Have you had it checked for codes? You could still have power to the head lights and they will not come on without a ground.
    I own a 99 Sonoma 2.2 auto. I have lots of information on the 99, the head light schematic looks like a bowl of spaghetti.
    The 99 also has a BCM, Body Control Module, not sure if that could cause your problem.
  • mikeysonmikeyson Posts: 4
    No engine codes. I have the Chilton repair manual which has several wiring diagrams that I've been looking over. It almost looks like there's 2 seperate issues, the lighting and the heater. I'll check back once I look at the power to the lights...
  • Hi there,

    this is the first time posting on this forums and only because i'm about to loose my job because my truck is making troubles.

    I bought a 83 s-10 (2.8l v6)from a car shop last week. when i testdrove it everything except the headlights worked fine. they said they're gonna fix it and i can pick it up at night. when i came to pick it up i had to compression start the car but the headlights worked. i drove for 5 minutes and the lights started getting dimmer and the turnsignals stopped working.I pulled into a gas station, turned off the car, turned it back on and it worked fine again. 15 miles later the voltage dropped all the way down and the engine died. My buddy came with another batterie and i could drive it to my house. The next day i drove it all day (never used the headlights) but at night and probably 20 minutes after i turned on the headlights the voltage started dropping again and i turned the car off before it could die again. Then nothing worked anymore, not even a click to start it.
    Next morning it started without any problem and again ran all day. even had it running with the headlights on for a while and it worked fine. then again at night i had the same problem and i turned the car off(had to jumpstart it the next day).
    Autozone tested alternator and it was fine...
    the wiring seems kinda screwed up so i wonder if i could have a short

    any helpfull tip is much appreciated !

    thx in advance
  • sn4ck0sn4ck0 Posts: 8
    Hello all,

    I've a 95 S-10 2.2l, and I'm trying to work on fixing my heater/a/c issue, and I believe that it is a grounding issue, but I'm unaware of where the grounds are for this.

    So if any of you have or know where I could get them, I would be much, and greatly appreciated.
  • dehdeh Posts: 1
    I have a 1985 GMC S15. When the lever is right, or left all of my turn signals come on at the same time. Would there be any help out there for what the problem may be?
    Thanks...
  • farside4farside4 Posts: 3
    I recently towed a friends trailer and noticed when unhitching that the running lights were out. And also noticed that the driver side parking lights were out as well including the license plate light. I have a brake light and turn signal just no parking light on that side. The passenger side is working fine and all other parking lights are working correctly. Is there by chance a inline fuse that i missed cause i have check all the fuses that i know of in the fuse box. Any suggestions.
  • farside4farside4 Posts: 3
    found problem looking now a replacement fuse box..
  • bgolenorbgolenor Posts: 2
    just had samething fixed
    replaced multi function switch in steering wheel worked 5min he said switch burned relay out. replaced it and working fine.
    i would try relay first
  • bgolenorbgolenor Posts: 2
    i had same problem with my 2001 s-10
    garage put in muti function switch in steeringwheel work for about 5 min.
    than a relay because old switch burned old relay.but works great now.
    so i would try relay first


    GOOD LUCK
  • polanderpolander Posts: 3
    The daughters 1991 GMC Sonoma with a 2.8L V-6 died on the side of the road and was towed home. A friend of hers put in a spare battery he had, checked the fuel pump relay, said it was bad, wiggled it and the truck started. She bought a new battery, put a few miles on the vehicle that night, next day a few more miles then another tow home. She bought a new relay which I replaced with no success. I heard no fuel pump noise and lowered the tank. Another "helper" showed up, I handed him a tester and he said I had voltage to the pump. So I replaced it. Hit the key and it wouldn't start. I listened for the fuel pump and heard no noise. I tested the old pumpto find it worked fine. Checked power to the tank with a Multi-meter to find 5 volts and that my helper didn't realize a dim bulb meant low voltage. I checked the wires from tank to hood, no breaks or fuse links. Pulled apart the multi-pin connector on the firewall to find it full of axle grease instead of dielectric grease. Cleaned with contact cleaner, re-assembled, hit the key,heard the fuel pump, nothing. Pulled the fuel filter, got a shower of gas, replaced filter (the old one clogged so badly it wouldn't pass air). Hit the switch, nothing. Checked voltage at tank and it was back to 5 volts. Removed and re-cleaned connector, still nothing. Put the charger on the new battery. Tested Ignition Module at the parts store. It was defective so I replaced it and still nothing. I've cleaned grounds and checked terminations (after I ran a wire from the battery to the disconnect on the fuel pump0. Still nothing. I probably fried the new fuel pump with all of the twisting and tugging. I know that was a lot to digest. Tomorrow evening I'll drop the tank again and try again. HELP ME PLEASE, My hair is gone! Thanks
  • hello, iv got a 91 s-10 2wd with a tbi 4.3 auto tranny. well my truck quit running and started blowing ecm fuses. so i pushed it down the road and decided to put a new fuse in it. well it started working again and i drove the truck for a couple of months like this. well a couple of days ago my truck just quit running. and smoke started coming out form under the dash. it melted the fuse it didn't just blow it it litteraly melted it! so i towed the truck home. started inspecting things and testing stuff. well i went over any visible wires and checked the pump its still good. but i found a couple of bare wires inside the throttle body they go to the injectors. so i replaced the wires and injector plugs. put a new fuse in it and it doesn't blow the fuse but it wont start either doesn't even fire. so i put power directly to the pump to make it run it still didn't do any good and i know its pumping i took the line off and tested it i put fuel in the throttle body and it started. i have a parts truck like it so if you have any ideas id appreciate it. thanks
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Posts: 161
    If the truck will run with some other type of flammable spray, sprayed into the throttle body, its most likely fuel related only. Because you tested the grey power wire to the pump and it only had 5v. Suspect sorted assembly for fuel pump or power delivery issue. Unplug the harness and check voltage again. If you now have 12v, you have a short in either the pump or the assembly hanger. Remember if 12v is being supplied and there is a short somewhere, your meter will read less than 12v, depending on the amount of amps the short is. GM fuel pumps short quite often in the assembly hanger where the wires go through to the pump. By unplugging the harness and checking the voltage this way, you will know only then if the proper voltage is trying to be supplied.
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Posts: 161
    If the truck will run with some other type of flammable spray, sprayed into the throttle body, its most likely fuel related only. Because you tested the grey power wire to the pump and it only had 5v. Suspect sorted assembly for fuel pump or power delivery issue. Unplug the harness and check voltage again. If you now have 12v, you have a short in either the pump or the assembly hanger. Remember if 12v is being supplied and there is a short somewhere, your meter will read less than 12v, depending on the amount of amps the short is. GM fuel pumps short quite often in the assembly hanger where the wires go through to the pump. By unplugging the harness and checking the voltage this way, you will know only then if the proper voltage is trying to be supplied.
  • im trying to remove the fuse box on my 91 s-10 i dont know how to get to what ever is holding it on can some one help me? thanks
  • polanderpolander Posts: 3
    Thanks, I replaced the wires from the tank to the terminal block under the hood and the pump worked. Still wouldn't start. I have fuel in and out of the throttle body, power to the injectors when I turn the ignition to the on position. Since the fuel filter was so filthy I decided to remove and clean the injector module. Inspection revealed much dirt and a bit of rust on the pressure regulator diaphram so I cleaned the unit, rebuilt the regulator, reassembled and reinstalled the unit. Still nothing. Any thoughts?
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Posts: 161
    Now that you have fuel comming out of the injectors, sounds like the fuel issue is resolved. Spark plugs may have gotten fouled with all the cranking. Check for spark also, on more than just one wire.
  • polanderpolander Posts: 3
    Well, at that point, I didn't have fuel coming out of the injectors. I was cautioned about using DIY cleaning chemicals. (see my screen name) I filled the unit with cleaner and let it soak for a while. I then rigged up a "gizmo" of clear tubing that let me have cleaner to back wash the injectors by applying low air pressure. That did the trick. The dirt (or ?) had hardened in the injectors like concrete. (maybe one of the kid's friends was pissed) Put it back together and drove to the new O'Reilly's in town for some high end fuel injector cleaner. Lucas fuel injector cleaner was on sale 2 for $6. (limit 12 per customer) I stocked up. Thanks to all for the help. Sadly, spending so much time under the hood and under the truck revealed emergency brake cables that need to be replaced, wheel cylinders that are leaking, valve cover gaskets that are failing, and a radiator that probably needs to be flushed. Again, thanks to all.
  • sinfulonesinfulone Posts: 1
    What did you do to fix the problem? I have a 95 that is doing the exact same thing.
  • OK so I did a bonehead move today... took apart the wiper motor connector to clean all the contacts, and didn't keep track of which color wire went in which socket!!! There are five wires, two at the top, a black wire in the middle, and two at the bottom.

    I'll label the sockets like this, looking INTO the connector at the metal connections:
    --------
    | 1 2 |
    | - 3- |---
    | 4 5 |
    --------

    where the line by the "3" is where the tab on the connector is. I'm fairly sure that 3 is the black wire, but if someone could be so kind as to peek under their hood and tell me where all the other wires go? Don't worry, I won't be making this mistake ever again!!!!

    Thanks tons,
    Tim
    (gotta love ASCII art....)
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