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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • jfj600wjfj600w Posts: 2
    Nopey , , , in fact things seem to be getting worse. . . the inside - dome light will not work unless I over ride it. . then I have to cut it off manually . . and the gas gauge seems to have gone whacky. . that may not be related. . . I just do not have the money to take it to a shop. . .
    The door thingy. . I got to the switch but was unable to get it out. . so I am not sure that is the problem or not.
    I am just scared it is going to stop on me and I will not be able to get anything running. . . scary to have a vehicle like that. . but right now. . no other choice. . ..
  • daveykc5daveykc5 Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 S-10 and i have some power door locks issues, Neither of them work. Checked the fuses they are all good. I have an idea that it might be the relay but i cant seem to find it. If any one can either tell me where to locate the power door lock relay or how to fix the relay i would appreciate it very much.
  • Hello, My 95 S-10, 2.2l 5-speed with about 135,000 miles on it is about to get scrapped. While driving I get random electrical shorts (or hiccups) which cause the radio to pop, lights to dim, engine to miss, and if I'm really lucky everything shuts down. I have been able to get power again and start the engine within a few moments. No trouble codes from the computer so I have replaced the battery, alternator, positive terminal post(coroded), and those 2 relays that are mounted under the hood. I have also looked all over the engine for bad grounds. From what I have read from earlier posts it sounds like a semi-common problem with little or no (affordable) solution. The next step I am considering is replacing the ignition switch based on info from the internet. Any advice? PLEASE! :lemon:
  • jedifrkjedifrk Posts: 1
    I have a '99 Sonoma 4.3 and under heavy acceleration the engine loses power and the dash lights dim. Problem started after I replaced battery and positive battery cable to the starter (corroded through). I have since added another ground wire from the battery to the frame and sodered a new wire to the other positive wire going to the battery. I am at a total loss any help would be great.
  • i have a 1999 s10. the connector for a code checker stop working ,how can i fix to read codes i plug the code reader i get nothing. code reader works ok.does the connector go bad,do i have tyo replace it, please help.
  • My truck did the same thing it is probably a fuse thats what it was for mine if not try moving the wires that go into the back of the plug
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 872
    Check your cig fuse, it powers the diagnostics.
  • fatal22fatal22 Posts: 2
    I just bought a 98 s10. When I bought it, the guy informed me that there was a headlight out. I went and replaced one, and realized they were all dim. I went ahead and replaced all of them and only one is working properly. I am assuming its a ground issue, but am wondering if it could be anything else. It doesn't seem to be the alternator because the lights don't get any brighter as I drive. There are also no other electric issues in the truck.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    I would lean towards bad ground. I had a light issue a few weeks back involving the rear lights and turn signals and found a bad ground wire. Fixed the wire and all is good now. While yours is not the same issue, it does involve lights not working properly when the bulbs are good and the rest of the electrical is good, so the only thing left is wiring somewhere.
  • dbilldbill Posts: 2
    Need help, have been having a bad electrical issue, truck is running and and when the the ignition is shut off the truck continue to runs but if you turn down the dimmer switch the truck will shut off. Also with the truck off you can turn on the radio by turning on the headlight switch but if you use the dimmer you can shut the radio back off. I have replaced the headlight dimmer switch with no luck. It acts as if the headlight switch is crossing or back feeding with the ignition switch, because when you do turn on the headlight switch the service engine soon light comes on. Can anyone point me in the right direction. 2002 chevy s10 4.3L 4x4 Thanks
  • dbilldbill Posts: 2
    Thank you for your help, although that was not the issue. After tracing and tracing and tracing finally found the problem. It was in the instrument cluster, it was back feeding through the ignition and light switch which was causing all my problems. Replaced the cluster and all is well.
  • I have a 98, 2.2l, 5 speed, 136k, and it does the same thing. I'll lay out EXACTLY what it does in case anyone has any ideas...

    Volt meter will slowly dip from fourteen down to around 11, taking up to 5 minutes to drop, sometimes bounce back up momentarily only to drop again, and the truck will sputter and die. Sometimes I can put it in gear while it's rolling and it'll kick back in and pop back up to 14 volts and be fine...but usually if it DOES start back up, it'll just slowly dip back under 11 and die, and to keep from fighting with it I'll just coast till I find a decent place to pull over. The radio, a/c, lights, everything accessory continue to work, lights are NOT dim at all, even though the volt meter reads nothing with the key on. Then I sit, turn the ignition off and back on...sometimes getting absolutely nothing, sometimes barely over 11, but when it's ready to go and run right it'll jump all the way back to 14...and start like nothing happened. If I don't let it sit for about five minutes, I'll try to start it and it'll do something that's almost like it's fouling out...won't be weak turning over, but it's like as soon as the engine kicks in something is killing it...so I let it sit a little longer, and eventually it'll start and sometimes won't do it again. Also, I've noticed that sometimes the security light will come on...more about that in a moment.

    It has done this since around 105k, it'll happen for a couple of months, then go away, sometimes for six months at a time until it returns. It seems to happen more when it's hot outside, whether the air is running or not, and when it's raining at night, obviously when there's more of a pull on the battery. Very early on I noticed that using my blinkers would make it take huge dips, and sometimes make it begin the "slow fade" when it had been fine...so I just stopped using them altogether...and it still happens. It happens at freeway speeds, city driving, has happened while I've been stopped at red lights, it doesn't really matter...and it'll seem to be getting worse and worse, I'll repair or replace something, and then it'll go away for a few months...and come back.

    I have replaced the battery, put in two alternators, a starter, battery cables, found a security system under the steering column that would click and keep it off (may have been unrelated) and took it and all its wiring out, found a heat shield on the starter between it and the exhaust pipe that was shorting out from the hot wire to the pipe, tried to make it work and eventually removed it...found various bad connections in the dash and replace them...and all of these things would make it better for a few months, and then it'd come back.

    As far as I know I'm the third owner of the truck...the guy I bought it from told me nothing about the security system (it made the lights flash), and it has wiring that suggests that someone had an amplified sound system in it as well...all of which I've removed, and I thought maybe bad wiring by them in the past was where this was coming from, until I checked message boards and saw others having the same problems. The only things I can think to replace now are the ignition and ignition switch, and I'm starting to think maybe there's a bad circuit in the CPU or something.

    If anyone has fixed this or has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them. I'm ready to blow the truck up before it stalls on the freeway again and succeeds in killing me.
  • I just posted on this, would've tagged yours in my reply if I could have. Read above and see if it sounds similar. We should start a support group...lol.
  • :confuse: i have a 2000 gmc sonoma and my headlights dont turn on at night and sometimes during the day. i checked fuses, ground, switch and relay is good. the bulbs are good. what gets me is when i have the problem the two wires at the plug for the bulb are throwing 12v positive.any body can help it would be appreciated. thanks
  • The fuse to the cigar lighter is blown. Replace it and any other fuse and the code checker will begin to function.
  • 1991 chevy s-10, bad ign module replaced, still only getting spark to top of distributor at end of ignition try. whats up?
  • holy roller. You have described the problem exactly what my truck does. I am sure that your speedo and tach sweeps all the over just like a electrical hiccup. All gauge lights up. What do we do anything? Have you found a solution besides "For Sale". I would hate for it to die when trying to pass a vehicle.
  • I replaced the crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor as recomended by a mechanic, no help, replaced the alternator and I had to replace the catalytic converter because the backfiring ruined it, I replaced ECU and still no help I said thats enough!!!! I traded it in on a Honda Civic. I took it to several diffrent mechanics and electrical specialist and nobody could figure it out. I was also told by someone that they had a similar problem on a Acura and it was the main relay I didn't check or try it on mine because I had already gotten rid of it. Its worth a shot just don't waste your money on the parts I bought they were no help. Let me know how it turns out. Good Luck
  • I have a 95 S-10 ZR2 and have changed the blower motor and the interior blower switch but still cannot get it to blow on the highest setting. I am wondering if it is the relay or not, and if so, whereabouts is it located on the truck?
    Thanks,
    Eddie :shades:
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,073
    Is the motor not blowing on the highest setting, or is it blowing on the highest setting (you can hear the motor blowing), but aren't getting the proper air volume??
  • k8vk8v Posts: 1
    I would like to know where is the throttle position sensor located on my 97 gmc sonoma and how hard is it to replace?
  • That sensor is on the opposite side of the cable coming from the accelerator pedal, it should be pretty easy to replace !!
  • No solutions yet...as soon as I get some cash saved up I'm buying something else and selling it, sigh.
  • I have a 1994 2.2L 5 Speed Manual Sonoma, I bought it used and it ran fine for the first year I owned it. One day driveing home from work the truck's RPM's droped slightly and when I tried to push on the gas the truck had little to no power. Since then i've tried many things such as a tune up and checking all basic tests. I found out that if you unplug the altenator or the fuse that it is hooked to the truck will run fine but die as soon as the battery runs out. I replaced the altenator it wasn't it. I replaced alot of sensors the only thing else i could think of is a short. IF ANYONE HAS ANY IDEA OF WHAT IT COULD BE PLEASE REPLY IVE DRIVIN LIKE THIS FOR 8 MONTHS.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 872
    Only thing I can think of is the ignition module or the PCM can't handle 14 volts anymore, just a guess though.
  • Checked Position Censor already but i will have to check the ignition module thanks.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 872
    PCM Power Train Control Module. It's the engine computer.
  • That was one of things we were looking at but for some reason never checked I guess I should then.
  • Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 2001 S10 OBD2 plug under the dash? Wires are pushed out of the back and I can't scan the vehicle.
    Thanks!
  • kjc4kjc4 Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with the Driver Side Power Window working off and on. I thought the problem might have been the switch. I replaced the switch module and the problem was still there. Could the problem be with the connection to the motor or a broken wire? I am looking for a drawing with instructions related to removing the inner door panel so that I can check the wiring and conection to the motor. Can someone send me information related to obtaining drawings and directions? Or, can someone give me some other ideas related to resolving the problem before I take the door apart?
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