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Chevy Suburban and Tahoe AC and Heater Problems

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Comments

  • Thanks, Cary, much appreciated!
  • For my 2001 Suburban, I can get heat in the back but none in the front. A/C and blower still work just no heat.

    -Getting hot going in and out of the heater core so I don't think it is plugged
    -Got enough coolant in the system
    -Tried a new blend door actuator but that did not appear to help. While turning the temp knob, the actuator was moving but then it stopped moving. Put the new actuator on and it didn't move either.
    -Went to the junkyard and got a heater control from another 2001 and put it in and still no movement with the actuator.

    What the heck could be the problem? This is my wife's car and she doesn't really want a cold car in the morning. And let's be honest, if she ain't happy, ain't no one happy.
  • 2003 Suburban, no heat is delivered to the driver's side. Defroster, vents and floor vents all blow cold air (brrr) on the drivers' side only. Passenger side and all the rear vents work fine with lots of heat. A/C works fine for all vents in the summertime. Any help please. And yes, the temperature sliders are both all the way to the top (max heat). Thank you.
  • On three occassions, I have noticed the a/c in my 2008 Surburban running on it's own without the engine running or key in the ignition. Is this normal? Why does it do this or is there a problem? Thanks.
  • My 2007 tahoe just did the exact thing, what did you conclude was the problem with your driver side heat?
  • Curious to know if you ever found a solution to this problem. My Tahoe is doing the exact same thing and we cannot find anyone around here willing to give us information without paying an arm and a leg for it.
  • I was having problems with my 2004 Chev 2004 not blowing out any heat from the floor or face vents; it was only blowing from the defrost. This happened after my battery died.

    I found the information online about pulling about the 10amp fuze for the ECM and let it stay off for 10 minutes and then plug it in and let the computer reset itself. I did that, and it WORKED!

    Also had a problem where my rear-air wouldn't blow hot air, so I thought I would try the steps again. Now, my display on the Digital Climate control won't work at all. THe little lights for the defrosters won't come on....doesn't work at all. I checked a few of the fuses to see if they were blown, but they look good.

    Any suggestions?
  • Hey guys,

    I have a 1999 lifted 'Burban which has developed a clicking/grinding noise when moving. It sounds like it's coming from the middle of the vehicle. I notice it only when moving, and the noise occurs concurrently with the speed of the vehicle. When idling it is absent, same when revving the engine in park. It sounds like metal/metal clicking or grinding.

    I recently had the rear-end replaced due to a previously incorrectly installed differential. At the time of repair I had no issues, but this came about and is worsening. I feel that it is something with the driveshaft (but I know barely anything about cars), as it only occurs when the wheels are moving. I hate to bring it to a shop without an idea of what is wrong. Any suggestions?
  • i had the same problem with my 99 suburban and i figured it out. the caliper was loose on the drivers side front tire. check your brakes, rotors, and calipers on the front wheels, make sure nothings loose. hope this is helpful to you
  • Thanks for the tip! I'll check that out. Would a loose caliper affect my braking? I just had the master cylinder replaced and the whole brake system bled, but I still feel that the braking is mushy, for lack of a better term. This is definitely something I'll investigate. Thanks!
  • nohlsnohls Posts: 1
    Curious to know if you ever found a solution to this problem. My 2000 Tahoe is doing the exact same thing and my auto repairman can't figure it out....Thanks
  • Hi, I have a 2004 Suburban with problems. I had a problem with my ac last summer and they replaced the compressor I believe, but now I have no heat or ac but the mechanic noticed a hole in some pipe when he had my hood opened last weekend. My car will hit 350,000 miles tomorrow and I am determined to keep it, so I am getting it fixed. If there is anything unusual, I will post it but it is just hit or miss whenever I have a problem and the car is paid for and still cheaper than a car payment. I just wish it got better mileage!!!
  • realdeal3realdeal3 Posts: 3
    Hello, am having a problem with my A/C when i hit the AC button all it does is blink have anyone had this problem before
  • yysgirlyysgirl Posts: 3
    Did you by any chance drive through water? Is it raining? I had to do some searching on this site and figured out that the sensors under my hood were damaged and need to be replaced. If I drive through rain/water and it splashes, my light blinks until the sensors dry.
  • realdeal3realdeal3 Posts: 3
    It happen right @ winter time so this is the 1st time since it gotten hot i have tried it which sensor was it cause everyone keep telling me its goin to cost like $600 to replace the ac unit so im trying all the cheap thing 1st to see if thats the problem
  • realdeal3realdeal3 Posts: 3
    anyone else had this problem
  • I have the same problem while moving only. I checked the braked but agree that the sound is from the driveshaft area somewhere. I replaced all the ujoints and still the clicking. Really noticeable when on the freeway against a wall.
    I have been told the bearings could be the issue but its coming from the middle of the SUV.
    Did you get yours fixed?
  • mlaniermlanier Posts: 19
    I bought this vehicle from a dealer, and after a week the rear air would only blow hot air. I contacted them about the problem, they diagnosed it as the blend door actuator. So I replaced it and still had the same problem. I found an electronic piece connected to the duct system, I disconnected this piece and the actuator allowed cool air through the system , but not cold air, my question is to anyone that can answer it, is this piece I found a thermostat for the rear air system? Thanks for any reply
  • tank6617tank6617 Posts: 1
    edited December 2007
    I have a 2000 Tahoe. When I turn on my AC it works fine until I the rpm's are raised to about 2000 rpm. I then get a loud rattle under the hood. I have replaced the belts and tensionner and still get the same noise. Still no problem with AC it cools fine. Any suggestions?
  • gpd151gpd151 Posts: 1
    Just purchased a 2003 Tahoe with 109k miles. Beautiful condition and the only big problem I have is the automatic heat controls. If I set the controls to 75, it will freeze me out. If I set the controls to 80, it will freeze me out. If I set the controls to 65, it will freeze me out. So the A/C works, and that is a plus... However, I have to turn the dials to 90 to max them out before I feel heat, which it puts out good heat, but only from the floor.

    My upper panel for the rear, as well as the rear control panel, they have either off, or full cold, and never get hot air.

    The PCM doesn't show any codes, aside from the front airbag sensor. I've got a couple months before the heater will be necessary, so where do I begin?

    Thanks
  • My 2006 suburban has had a few electical issues, and the dealers were going to charge me a lot 2 different times, and they were wrong. The power of the internet is the only way to keep them a little honest, any way I have a problem with the blower motor running after the car is off with the keys out and doors closed. Need any good help I can get. also would never buy another chevy again.
  • Good afternoon steve450,

    I see that you've been into your dealership to have this looked into already; if you would like for us to follow up on this with the, please send us the following information via email at socialmedia@gm.com so we can update our system and get a Service Request going: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • No thanks you work for GM. I would rather bash your company, I have already contacted your company and have a personal rep. The items I was speaking of were 2 other issues, for which were wrongly diagnosed By Alpine GMC, and Emich, Of the Denver area. Your company has had some of these issues dating back to the early 2000's and they were never addressed. One of them was a power seat control drivers side,and seat heat both sides. They said I needed a new control module at Alpine, but while reading information on the internet I discovered information about a problem with the plug underneath the seat. I'm assuming that the plug pins create too much reistance for the voltage which makes the wires overheat which actually make the wires get hot which in my mind could create a fire hazard. Make a plug and pins bigger to handle the issue is my remedy. But until GM is held accountable things wont change. I wont bother you with the other one right now but it went from an $800.00 fix from the dealer to my $40.00 fix. I found the first fix on the internet which Im assuming no GM mechancs read.
  • Sorry for the mispelling resistance.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,184
    edited August 2012
    You have 30 minutes after posting to edit posts here. Not that it much matters since we're all fluent in chat typo. :)

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • dezbdezb Posts: 14
    I Have had to have my rear AC fixed. can't recall the issue. I have now had all of my door locks replaced. Thank God for the extended warranty that something told me to buy when I purchased my 2008 Tahoe. I have neVER had the need for an extended warranty before. Our 2000 GMC Sierra takes a licking and keeps on ticking, but I don;t think I will purchase a CHEVY product any time soon. I will be trading in my Tahoe before the extended warranty expires. It is a shame, because it rides nice when running properly. The dealership (Freeway Chevy) knows me by name, which is sad. The dealership is great, but the product is not. My husband told me that his company, a long time chevy buyer, is now going to purchase Ford work trucks because the chevy trucks they have are experiencing some type of wiring problems on the new trucks. This is a shame because they purchase many trucks every year. This is a shame. We were going to cosign for our daughter to purchase a malibu, but due to the poor quality of chevy lately, we are now looking at Honda and Nissan products. We have always been firm believers in buying American, but not when you are losing this kind of money.
  • I have a 2003 Subruban, at times I am earing a high pitch noise through the radio speakers. The pitch goes up and down and follows the RPMs as the motor shifts up and down. Does anyone know what the possible cause might be. Thought it was the altinator, switched it out and it is still doing it. Any help or guidance would be greatly appriciated. Thanks
  • WHen temp setting is all the way to Cold, AC works as expected. When I bump the temperature setting on the dash one notch towards WARM, it goes to full heater. No gradations. I suspect blender door actuator. Does anyone know where it is (I think there are more than 1?) Is it easily accessable or does dash have to come off?
  • I have a 2005 suburban loaded and my heater and air will not blow out until my RPM's go up like on the interstate and at that point it blows out hot or cold air but my rear vents work fine...the thermostat for that is at a different place. What could be causing this?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,068
    aswann75,
    We understand if you're looking for some do-it-yourself advice as the vehicle is outside of any applicable warranties by time, if not also by mileage. If you did decide to work with a dealership on this and wanted for us to work with you through that process, please email us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, a summary of the situation, and the last 8 digits of your VIN).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
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