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Chevy Suburban and Tahoe AC and Heater Problems

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  • My 2006 suburban has had a few electical issues, and the dealers were going to charge me a lot 2 different times, and they were wrong. The power of the internet is the only way to keep them a little honest, any way I have a problem with the blower motor running after the car is off with the keys out and doors closed. Need any good help I can get. also would never buy another chevy again.
  • Good afternoon steve450,

    I see that you've been into your dealership to have this looked into already; if you would like for us to follow up on this with the, please send us the following information via email at socialmedia@gm.com so we can update our system and get a Service Request going: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • No thanks you work for GM. I would rather bash your company, I have already contacted your company and have a personal rep. The items I was speaking of were 2 other issues, for which were wrongly diagnosed By Alpine GMC, and Emich, Of the Denver area. Your company has had some of these issues dating back to the early 2000's and they were never addressed. One of them was a power seat control drivers side,and seat heat both sides. They said I needed a new control module at Alpine, but while reading information on the internet I discovered information about a problem with the plug underneath the seat. I'm assuming that the plug pins create too much reistance for the voltage which makes the wires overheat which actually make the wires get hot which in my mind could create a fire hazard. Make a plug and pins bigger to handle the issue is my remedy. But until GM is held accountable things wont change. I wont bother you with the other one right now but it went from an $800.00 fix from the dealer to my $40.00 fix. I found the first fix on the internet which Im assuming no GM mechancs read.
  • Sorry for the mispelling resistance.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,931
    edited August 2012
    You have 30 minutes after posting to edit posts here. Not that it much matters since we're all fluent in chat typo. :)
  • dezbdezb Posts: 14
    I Have had to have my rear AC fixed. can't recall the issue. I have now had all of my door locks replaced. Thank God for the extended warranty that something told me to buy when I purchased my 2008 Tahoe. I have neVER had the need for an extended warranty before. Our 2000 GMC Sierra takes a licking and keeps on ticking, but I don;t think I will purchase a CHEVY product any time soon. I will be trading in my Tahoe before the extended warranty expires. It is a shame, because it rides nice when running properly. The dealership (Freeway Chevy) knows me by name, which is sad. The dealership is great, but the product is not. My husband told me that his company, a long time chevy buyer, is now going to purchase Ford work trucks because the chevy trucks they have are experiencing some type of wiring problems on the new trucks. This is a shame because they purchase many trucks every year. This is a shame. We were going to cosign for our daughter to purchase a malibu, but due to the poor quality of chevy lately, we are now looking at Honda and Nissan products. We have always been firm believers in buying American, but not when you are losing this kind of money.
  • I have a 2003 Subruban, at times I am earing a high pitch noise through the radio speakers. The pitch goes up and down and follows the RPMs as the motor shifts up and down. Does anyone know what the possible cause might be. Thought it was the altinator, switched it out and it is still doing it. Any help or guidance would be greatly appriciated. Thanks
  • WHen temp setting is all the way to Cold, AC works as expected. When I bump the temperature setting on the dash one notch towards WARM, it goes to full heater. No gradations. I suspect blender door actuator. Does anyone know where it is (I think there are more than 1?) Is it easily accessable or does dash have to come off?
  • I have a 2005 suburban loaded and my heater and air will not blow out until my RPM's go up like on the interstate and at that point it blows out hot or cold air but my rear vents work fine...the thermostat for that is at a different place. What could be causing this?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,001
    aswann75,
    We understand if you're looking for some do-it-yourself advice as the vehicle is outside of any applicable warranties by time, if not also by mileage. If you did decide to work with a dealership on this and wanted for us to work with you through that process, please email us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, a summary of the situation, and the last 8 digits of your VIN).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • Hello,

    I had the same exact problem and I fixed mine myself and saved me $100's of dollars!!!! Here's what I did......I went to YouTube and searched for the exact issue and I found this AWESOME video and website called Sparky.com he shows you how to troubleshoot the blower motor resistor. I followed exact instructions, went to the part store puchased the blower motor resistor and replaced it with NO problems. This happens when your blower motor resistor gets wet from A/C or rain via a clogged drain tube.

    Here's the video to watch. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0mDPW9P5VU

    Good Luck!!
  • first of all I changed the instrument cluster and heater control already. first problem is ac/heat only comes out of the defrost. then the next is, when you hit the snowflake to turn ac on it goes hot but when you turn ac off it blows ice cold. can anyone tell me how to fix it?
  • runamuck7runamuck7 Posts: 1
    I have a 2012 2500 Suburban that has a problem getting the compressor to start after a hot soak. This only happens during the hottest part of the summer here in Arizona and has done it since new. The dealer has not been able do duplicate the problem, I showed them a video of the malfunction during it's current visit there. With the ambient temp of 110F+, during a restart after a hot soak period, the compressor does not want to come on. During the non-op, the system insists on outside air. The compressor light will light for a moment than turn off. Push for recirculate, the light will lite for a moment and then shut off, then the compressor light will shut off and stay off. This argument will continue for 2-15 minutes before the system decides it wants to come on. After it does decide to come on, the system will revert back to outside air when it starts to cool down in the cab and I will have to push the button to get it to go back to recirculate. If it makes any difference in diag, the engine is the 6.0, it has the trailer package and it is a 4 X 4. Also, when it is this hot, the engine will get hot during longer idle times (15-20 minutes). The truck does not have a pusher fan in front of the condensor. The temp gauge will go to the 3/4 mark past 210F, the fan clutch does engage the fan. Fast idle at about 1200 RPM will get it to come down. I work out in the heat, my wife dosen't. Thank you for your help.
  • spritemanspriteman Posts: 25
    I am thinking that due to the high temps your system could be in a very high pressure state in the refrigerant which would cause the system to shut down.

    Here's the info for a 2008 Suburban 2500 - that's the latest I have. I don't know if yours works the same way but I would expect it's at least similar. It explains how the A/C system works - hope this helps:

    The A/C system used on this vehicle is a non cycling system. Non cycling A/C systems use a high pressure switch to protect the A/C system from excessive pressure. The high pressure switch will OPEN the electrical signal, to the compressor clutch, in the event that the refrigerant pressure becomes excessive. After the high and low side of the A/C system pressure equalize, the high pressure switch will CLOSE. Closing the high pressure switch will complete the electrical circuit to the compressor clutch. The A/C system is also mechanically protected with the use of a high pressure relief valve. If the high pressure switch were to fail or if the refrigerant system becomes restricted and refrigerant pressure continued to rise, the high pressure relief will pop open and release refrigerant from the system.

    Let us know what you find out.

    Spriteman
  • I just had my compressor replaced and my air is blowing cold while I moving but when I'm at a stand still, it blows warm. HELP!!
  • dsmcneildsmcneil Posts: 1
    edited August 2013
    I have a 2003 Chevy Suburban 1500, when I turn on my a/c or heat it sometimes comes on and sometimes not. If it comes on , it sometimes shuts off by itself or it will stay running even after the vehicle it shut off. Sometimes we have to remove the fuse in the fuse box under the hood and leave it out until we get back in the vehicle. When the a/c is on it is very cold and the heat is very hot as well. Could the relay be bad or could it be something else? Does anyone have these same issues and if so has your issue been resolved? Can someone please help, not sure where to start. Thanks in advance. I can be contacted at darstevemcneil@gmail.com
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,931
    Emails may get you personal help but not help others. Please don't ask for "personal" help via email. We all benefit when a problem is discussed on the open forum.Thanks.
  • bruijnbruijn Posts: 1
    Our 2007 Suburban [5.3 FFV - LTZ trim] has a cold AC in front, but blows warm air for rear passengers.
    AC has been refilled twice, interior temp.sensors checked [and one replaced].
    GM dealer in the Netherlands is out of any good ideas what might cause the problem.

    Anyone who has a clue....

    Thanks!
  • Two checks:

    1 - you need to check to see if you are generating cold refrigerant in the auxiliary expansion valve in the rear unit - take the right hand cover off of the rear/auxiliary unit and feel that when the unit is running that a cold line is coming from the expansion valve. If it is that's good because otherwise you have a more involved fix.

    2 - when you turn on the rear unit and the blower is running do you feel any kind of air coming out of the rear air vents?

    These two checks will at least give you a starting point of what's wrong.

    SM
  • seanyboyseanyboy Posts: 1
    edited September 2013
    My 2000 chev tahoe is having issues with dual climate control. Both front and back blowers are not working. sometimes front will come on in high but no ac or door actuators work.. Also not sure if issue is related but my dash has died no tach no speedo no guages. truck starts fine and runs great. Any suggestions
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