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Chevy Suburban and Tahoe AC and Heater Problems



  • Does anyone know where I can buy the original Panasonic roof mount dvd for my 2003 Suburban. I have checked ebay.
  • I've got a problem with the same fan rattling when it is below 40 degrees. Once the vehicle warms up, the rattling goes away.

    How did you "get" to this area in the head-liner? I haven't found any good way to investigate the rattling.

    Could this termister/sensor be causing the rear compartment temperature actuator from working? The rear HVAR is stuck on cold, no matter if I change the temperature settings on the front upper console or rear console. I tried replacing the actuator, but that didn't fix it.

  • It wasn't easy, and I'm not sure that I found the best way to do it. My manual (non-GM) simply said that if you have the computerized climate control system, it's too complex so take it to the dealer. Helpful!
    I used a screwdriver to pry off the perforated disk in the headliner. It has four legs that clip into the cover on the "aspirator" assembly. They have actually used adhesive to hold the cable in place so that the assembly doesn't move very far when you do this.
    To get in there, I pulled the rubber door seal away from the frame, and the cover on the B pillar also pulled out - it's held on by several clips. THen I was able to get my hands up between the roof and the headliner, but there wasn't much room to see what I was doing or to manipulate things around.
    It turned out that the cover on the aspirator had become detached and when I got that back on and reattached the perforated disk, the system worked normally.
    If you had to replace the assembly, then you'd have to figure out how to disconnect the electrical connector - wouldn't be easy due to the difficulty of getting your hands in there and it wasn't obvious to me where the clip was that held the connector in place.
    Hope this helps, and if you find an easier way, please let me know in case I have to go in there again.
  • Thanks for the update. I haven't had any time to further investigate. I found another one of these behind the rear seat and can't imagine how to get to that one.

    I'm wondering now if the second one has something to do with my rear HVAC problem.

    Thanks again,
  • Hi Chris
    Interesting!!! My rear system works OK, so it makes sense that it has a separate sensor somewhere. I had never gone looking for it. Where exactly is it behind the seat?
    My front system is still flaky - sometimes OK and sometimes it just keeps heating, so I think I'll actually have to bite the bullet and buy a new one of those "aspirators". It was $54 at the dealer and about $32 on-line but I think that getting the cable disconnected could be the biggest challenge because there's really not much space to get your fingers in there. Please let me know how you get on.
  • This one is centered in the ceiling, directly above the back of the rear seats (second row seats, not third). Being centered and like 3 feet from the tailgate, I'm gonna find it difficult to get that one out. Not even sure how the dealer would either.

    I may breakdown and go get it looked at. Just haven't had the time nor the money.

    If you hear something pertaining to this, please write.

  • My 2004 Suburban HVAC blower motor has stopped blowing. I took it out and tested the leads (resistor lead with battery, ground and input as well as the two wire output to the motor) with the system on (control command for fan at full blast) and there was no input voltage. Ground and battery work just fine. The heater core gets hot, but the fan isn't passing any air past it. Any help is appreciated.
  • well, took it to a repair shop, and the thermistor (little box in line with the wiring that tells what voltage to send to the motor via temperature based resistance) was bad...replaced it and everything works now. wish i had known, could have saved a hundred bucks in "labor"!
  • I have a 99 suburban that yesterday the hi speed on my fan went out I still have the low midlow and midhigh, do you think that its the blower resistor and if so how can I check
  • flyboy_25flyboy_25 Posts: 2
    I havea a 03 tahoe lt. I disconnected my battery to place in another car. after putting it back in my tahoe died several times unless i kept the rpms high. at the same time my climate control was spuratically going floor vent to window vents to the dash vents. after cycling itself it is now stuck on window vents. i can adjust temp. and speed and my rear climate control is fine. several days later i noticed half my lights on my steering wheel for radio and stuff are out. bout an hour later my i was going down the interstate and i noticed my speedometer was showing 45 but new i was doing at least 75. as i would let off my pedal to slow down my needle on speedometer would go down but not back up as my speed increased. then it slowly stopped working all together within 5 mins or so. well 2 hours later i had to pull over but left my truck running, got back in and my speedometer was working just fine. for the year that ive had the tahoe now, ive always had that clicking/hissing sound coming from the drivers dash area and it is at a one second interval. sometimes louder than others but consistent but ive not heard it every since these other problems occurred. overall, the only problem i had was the clicking untill i disconnected my battery then i got more than i wanted. does anyone have any good news on how to fix the problems.-randy
  • alliantalliant Posts: 1
    Very Strange, but ironically I have the exact same problem? I put a new battery in the other day and instantly it started acting weird? It seems like it is putting a drain on the battery or alternator, I had alternator tested twice and it checks out fine. My AC is cycling from floor to panel to dash and then stays on dash regardless of selector position? Now the temp indicator on the rear view is reading OC instead of a degree? I also had the exact same clicking noise in my AC system, if you swith the ac selector postion to just one click past panel , the sound will go away, in other words turn the ac position selector all the way counter clockwise, then click it once clockwise. That process usually got rid of the clicking sound for me. Although I often wondered if something like some change is stuck in there preventing the control to change positions, I have kids! Also after changing battery the car was idling rough and would stall if I turned hard. I continued to drive it for 25 miles and it appears to have gone away, running pretty good now. I think the computer (PCM) or (ECM) needs to reset once you disconnect power. Funny Chevy mentions nothing in the owners manual about keeping power to the system when changing a battery? Car is running pretty good now, although I still have the AC issue, let me know if you have found anything out? Best Regards, :confuse:
  • rgj1960rgj1960 Posts: 1
    when I run my rear A/C in my 1999 Suburban I get water soaked in the carpet in the rear cargo area and on the floor behind the drivers seat > is my drain plugged ? and where is this drain ?
  • whhagerwhhager Posts: 2
    I have a 03 tahoe z71 and the battery went out on me. Replaced the battery and all seemed to work fine except for my rear a/c, it does not work since the battery change. Any idea what may be causing the problem Thanks
  • whhagerwhhager Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Tahoe Z71 and the battery died. When I replaced the battery all things worked except for the rear a/c blower. Any ideas on what to do to fix this. thanks
  • watrprowatrpro Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Surbaban that only blows air from the defrost. The A/C stopped working the next day. I checked the freon level and it was ok. I also checked the compressor and it worked ok when I sent 12v direstly to it. What can I check next. The a/c button on the dash seems to flicker but nothing happens. Thanks Steve
  • flyboy_25flyboy_25 Posts: 2
    man i wish i could help u but im not sure what is going on with the battery and climate control problems but they need 2 have a recall on the problen because lots of people r having the same problems
  • Check the thermistor above the passenger have to remove the shield, and then take out the fan...inside is a 2 or 3 paneled heat sink looking part that measures the temp of the air going to the cabin, and thus meters the fan speed. Mine failed (only defrost worked, manual or auto control failed), and it took a $200 trip to the shop to find out that the thermistor fails on quite a few suburbans because of poor QC. The part is under a hundred bucks (from the dealer)...replacing it is as easy as unplugging it and putting the new one in. Hope this helps.
  • watrprowatrpro Posts: 2
    That is the best answer I have heard yet. Thank you.
  • larconelarcone Posts: 9
    I had a 1999 Tahoe that did that. It was a deformed rubber gasket on the ambulance style doors as a result of a poor manufacturing process. Take a close look at the gasket around the doors and see if any are is crimped as a result of the improper application of glue from the factory.
  • larconelarcone Posts: 9
    Yeah, that's nice. Next time you might want to give Rock Auto a look see ( They could have sent you the same part for $40.36, shipping included.
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