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Toyota Sienna Sliding Door Problems



  • We also have the 2005 XLE. Blessed with BOTH the door weld "clicking" issue AND just had the driver side sliding door fixed. I don't know the technical term but the cable the door slides on seemed to have rusted out and then s
    Got sheared in half. In both cases we were fortunate that for some reason I had signed up for some kind of platinum warranty (which of course we nevr get- knowing Toyota, they probably slipped it in without me knowing. At any rate, the repair would have been $1200.00 as you stated. RIDiCULOUS! I've owned a Toyota since college, but I Swear the next minvan is a Honda. I also hate that I or a passenger can't use the Navi while driving.
  • Question on cutting the cable. How would you get to the cable if the door is stuck in the closed position? I disengaged the auto switch however it is impossible to open the door manually. Would I need to take off the inside door cover to get to the cable?
  • wismomwismom Posts: 1
    edited November 2011
    Have you tried opening the far back passenger window? It won't give you much room, but you may be able to access it that way. Otherwise, yes you'll have to remove the door panel from the inside.

    My door on my 2005 Sienna XLE was in the open position when this happened and we were able to cut the cable from the outside.

    I now carry a clipper in the van....just waiting for the other sliding door to malfunction so I can clip that cable as well. UGH.

    Once the cable is cut, you can manually open and close the door. Better than nothing.

    This site is helpful too:

    And when you're done with that there is actually a Facebook site dedicated to this issue....If 200 folks sign, the administrator is planning to file a class action suit.: 033754
  • My 04 Sienna sliding door cable snapped, and they surprised me with a $1500 bill to repair. Options were limited unless I wanted a 3 door van. Six months later, the door no longer works, take it in for adjustment, and they have to replace a different motor. Turns out it's my adjustment, as in $450 more to replace. Out of warranty, so Toyota won't help. I don't pay it, and the previous $1500 spent is worthless. I'm glad there are other strong options for new cars, I'm having a hard time justifying staying with Toyota after 20 years of continuous ownership. Very very frustrating.
  • venomjimvenomjim Posts: 1
    edited December 2011
    I had this same problem and used the fix you mentioned above. It worked great as far as getting the door to close, but now it won't open. It seems like the cable does not have enough tension to release the rear latch. Do you know how I can get access to the cable to open the door? I think, once I get it open, I can readjust the cable tension or adjust the rear latch mount towards the interior and retighten those two screws.
  • When my wife arrived at work she needed to get in the passenger side power sliding door. When she finished she went to close it and it would not budge. Yours truly had to drive 20 miles to check it out. Sure enough there was no closing it. After looking at all of the possibilities - removing the inside panel, checking the door motor, and cable; I had about given up. Then I noticed that the lights were dimmer than usual and that cranking the engine sounded like the battery was on its last leg. I ended up putting a new battery in. Shazam, the power door was able to close. Have not had a problem with it since. Any write-ups I have checked out do not make any reference to a low battery being the cause. One side note. In the process of trying to manually close the door I busted the outside handle loose from the forward anchor. So now have to take the door panel off anyway and replace that handle. The wonders of plastic.
  • Had the same problem on my Sienna went with these guys and they fixed my regulator door thingy for my 2006 sienna. I didn't want to pay the $1500 my local dealer was quoting me, and I think that price didn't include installation. I have 3 kids so I'm kind of surprised it only 5 years for its to break. Hope this helps you!
  • So you just remove the regulator and send it to them? How much per side?
  • Ya I just took off the my old unit, and shipped it to them, they put a new cable into it and shipped it back in like 2 days. It cost me $650 for the rh side. I haven't had a problem with the lh side....yet.
  • mtorgmtorg Posts: 1
    My drivers side door on a 2004 Sienna has been making crunching sounds, and working sporadically. It usually works, but sometimes needs a pull to get started opening or a push to get fully closed. At times you can hear a slight crunching kind of noise. We take it into the Toyota dealer, because the typical auto repair and collision places didn't want to touch it.

    The diagnosis is that it was a 'controller'; basically telling me it was an electronics issue. If it's an electronics issue - why is there a crunching noise as if something is jammed in there? And they tell me that the part is $651 plus $350 labor to replace.

    Does this make sense to anyone? I feel that I'm being taken advantage of by the dealer in this situation.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It's probably out of warranty, and given dealer rates are higher, it may be a good time to find a good private mechanic who knows Toyotas.
  • jjllcaljjllcal Posts: 31
    I have the same problem several years ago... Toyota said the same thing about the motor is the problem and asking for 1500 to fix. I brought it to an independent mechanic and it was a L shape door hinge ( upper one ) that holding the door from the body that create the problem (The cushion somehow worn off, toyota used cheap parts). In my case, the door was not lifting high enough and it is creating friction with the body. When their is a friction the sensor will stop the door movement and causing it to stop in the middle of the door closing process and you need to pull it again to finish the process. It cost me $250 to replace the hinge and it is working since then.
    I hope this will help.... good luck ... never buy another toyota again... this is not just the problems i have with the vans... there are lot more....
  • Well, I got both of my doors fixed. Before that, the plastic handle to the passenger sliding door broke. The handle repair was just under $200. Toyota would have charged that for the part. I had them cut the cable to the power door to make it manual and they fixed the drivers side door. The handle, both doors, replacing all dash lights and rear brake work was $505. I shudder to think what the bill from Toyota would've been.
    Good luck out there.
  • The passenger-side sliding door of our '06 Sienna LE got stuck OPEN in restaurant parking lot in June of 2011. The dealership was nearby and the manager came to help us. He couldn't get it closed either. They gave us loaner and kept our van for 3 days to repair. They said they had not seen the problem before. They replaced the slide motor assembly and covered the parts under warranty. They charged us $930 for labor. 9 months later, the door is starting to making a small grinding noise again. We can hardly wait!

    It seems there are already enough of us who have experience the same/similar problem to warrant a class action suite.
  • adiehl13adiehl13 Posts: 28
    Mtorg- I posted quite a bit about this. The "crunching noise" is likely because the cable is rusted out. This is how ours started. Eventually, it sheered off and then you couldn't open or close the door. There is also a problem with the motor. I actually think there is a technical service bulletin out now. Check out one of the TSB sites. They won't actually "recall" these things but I got mine fixed under the platinum warranty.
  • We have a 2005 Sienna that first had the cable on the passenger side sliding door break but we just used it as a manual door. However, just a few weeks later my wife went to open the door and it would not open at all! I have spent many hours working on it, but to no avail. I even took the interier door panal off, which is very hard with the door shut, but all I could determine is that the latch on the front of the door, on the post that the front door latches to, simply will not release. It has been five months now that we have had to function with only one sliding door working. A Toyota dealership said it would be several hundred dollars just to "try" and figure out why it isn't working. I am so frustrated and disappointed with Toyota.
  • susand3susand3 Posts: 1
    At only 3 years old and 47K miles the cable snapped on one of our power sliding doors yesterday and could have injured someone the way the door slammed shut! I called Toyota customer service and there is no technical bulletin or recall. I filled a complaint with the NTSB. Now I just have to bring it to the dealer for the bad news. It seems like it will be a very expensive repair. It's outrageous to know that this has been going on since the introduction of this generation of vans and Toyota has not done anything to correct the problem. :mad:
  • I have had problems with my 2006 Toyota Sienna power sliding doors and I see by the number of posts, so have many others. Here's what I found that may help some of you. First, you need to understand how the thing works: There are TWO small plastic coated cables, one to pull the door open and one to pull it shut. The pull-open cable attaches in the slot just under the vent window and the pull-shut one is attached on the same level in the hinge area. Both have two screws holding them onto the body. The system can be completely disabled by disconnecting BOTH of these clamps. The failure happens when the plastic coating starts to come loose and then it fouls the system of pullies and finally either breaks the pullies of the cable. If you start having problems with the door binding, you can save the cables by disconnecting them and this will allow the door to open and close as a manual one. At this point, I would suggest having someone with a lot of mechanical ability to try and save the cables It involves completely removing the sliding door , disassembling it, which includes removing the window, then removing the cable motor and pullies, then removing all the plastic coating pieces from the pullies and what is remaining on the cables. I did mine and it took several hours of work. I now understand why the labor cost is so high. Finally, if you disconnect both of the cables as I mentioned before and the door still "drags", you may also have a sticky roller on one of the three hinge/supports. If so, carefully remove one at a time and lube them up. Be sure to support the door as you do. Good luck!
  • ruthzruthz Posts: 1
    Here is my whole story:
    1) June, 08: My 2008 Sienna had small car wreck. Left Slide door damaged but no problem to open/close either manuallly or automaticaly.
    2) Sep, 08: I took to Body Shop which was recommended by insurance. Slide door outer body change.
    3) Slide door control start having problem since then. Sometime open a little bit then stop; some time open all the way but not close; some time open and close but not fully close. I took my car back forth to body shop about 5 to 6 times from 2008 to 2010. 3rd time I took back at Summer 2009, they change "whole control thing" inside the slide door. (I don't remember what part they change exactly. But now they told me they change "wire harness". They didn't file to auto insurance for this change and they never gave me any documentation each time I took my car back to them. I hate my neglect for never request any further document every time I took back because the manager is very nice and cooperate and I thought he should have record in their system...Now I think they may feel guilty therefore they didn't give me any paper work, even the extra parts change and have not report any those problems to auto insurance and rather to paid the extra cost by themselves.)
    4) Since they change this parts, my slide door still have same problem twice. The last time I took my car back is one year after they change the control part. 2011 is the first year I had not send my car back to them. I thought they fixed the problem eventually. But I am wrong. Three weeks ago, I took my daughter for dental appointment. I parked my car and click my remote control, the slide door start to open normally for a half then all a sudden sliding all the way to the end like loose control. It unable to close anymore. But when I click my remote, I still can hear motor sound and I have no problem to manually close it.
    5) I call body shop right way like before and was noted the manager is new. I told her all my story but she can not find any my information. So I bring my original paper work to her and heard their computer system totally changed and she even don't have my record at all. So she make a copy of my paper and took my car to inside to check. In less than 10 mins, she came back to me and said the CABLE MOTOR ASSEMBLY is broken and need be change. And that the same time, I saw a broken metal wire appeared under my rear window. The wire is still like fresh brand new stainless steel and no any sign of wear and tear. and the broken ends like force broken either by high tension or pinched something. And when I check closely, the black plastic wrap around broken wire are all cracked. The new manager said Moter Cable Assembly is normal wear and tear parts and nothing relate to their work.
    I doubt Moter Cable Assembly has problem because a) When I click remote or button in the car, I still can hear the motor sound. b) how can they tell Cable Moter Assembly broken in less than 10 mins without uninstall anything. c) I can see the wire is broken. For me, It sounds like only need replace wire. Can they just change wire to save my money.
    I truly believe this problem is strong relate to the body shop never appropately install my slide door. Every time I took back they make some change. I believe the wire must be pinched for so long and all the sudden broken.

    6) I complain to insurance, but they said the door was changed since 08 and they had no any record show the control have problem since the door was changed. My milage is 66,000. So they conclude it is normal wear and tear and I need pay full by myself.

    7) I check with Toyota dealer and tell them I will take my car to them full check just want them show me the problem honestly and tell me if related to inappropate installation or some thing wrong. they refuse since they don't want to involve any investigate.

    8) When I had my oil change last week, the tech told me it is CABLE MOTER ASSEMBLY problem too. He just take a quick glance. We can see the wire is broken visibly, why it is cable moter asesmbly whole thing problem. Only the part need $1300 not include labor. Is it possible only change wire?My God!

    I am so upset and angry. I need fight for rightous. This slide door always have problem since they install/uninstall so many times. Other slide door have no any problem at all. Further more, I don't believe 66,000 miles suppose have normal tear and wear for Slide door. That tear and wear is because this poor slide door being manipulate too many times by body shop. They need at least take some responsiblity. Please help. will Any advices and suggestions, no matter technical or how to fight, are deeply appreciate. thank you very very much!!
  • pinvestpinvest Posts: 1
    The problem could also come from the weather. I have a sienna which has given me the same problem. I noticed that htis would happen only during cold days. So I decided to clean the rails and use grease that will not clutter with the cold. The first thing to do is clean the rails top and bottom with a degreaser. If this works, use liquid grease, but like I said make sure it does not becomes hard during winter or cold days. I fixed the isssue doing the above. Good luck.
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