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Toyota Sienna Sliding Door Problems



  • michwood59michwood59 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem on my 2007 sienna. I found a fix for it although I haven't actually repaired my door yet though. Please see post number #321 for the fix. Its actually a defective motor latch release mechanism and can be purchased for about $ 100.00
  • duster4duster4 Posts: 2
    Still waiting for a final verdict from Toyota, but my 2011 Sienna cargo door would was not operating properly. My wife brought the car in for regular maintenance 3 weeks ago, asked the dealership to check it out. They reported it to be OK. Now, it stopped working. Would not close completely. The car is outside the 36,000 mile warrantee, but still less than 3 years old. The dealer now says it's a $2,500 repair. Unbelievable! Also, the dealer charged $90 to assess the situation!
  • duster4duster4 Posts: 2
    I posted the other day about the sliding door not working on my 2011 Toyota Sienna. Unfortunately, it is out of warantee because I'm past the mileage. I couldn't get the door to even close. The dealer eventually did get the door closed. Wanted to charge $90 for 'diagnostics', but eventually backed away from that. Their 'diagnostic analysis' told me 'it works intermittently. Well why wouldn't I want to pay $90 for that? They told me the fix was $2,500. Toyota said that they might be willing to pay half. What a sham. They can't build a car with a door that works for even 3 years. They inflate the repair costs, and then think I'll feel good about paying half.
    Also, just try asking for a supervisor at Toyota. 'I will have one get back to you in less then 1 business day' is their normal response. They didn't even get that right! I didn't get a call back.
    I will never buy a Toyota again!!!
  • schdealschdeal Posts: 2
    This is my first Toyota car and buying experience is very good, I like the driving more than Honda Odyssey.
    But the night mare come after I have the car, this is the worst NEW car I have ever buy.

    The moon roof rack broken after 6 months, even though it's replaced by the warranty.

    The sliding door began to have problem after few months, while opening the door, it produce a big bang sound,a really scary noise, it's like some one is hitting your car with a big hammer. but it doesn't happen all the time, so the dealer can't find it out easily. Finally I have to leave the car at service for a whole day, they finally heard it and replaced something as they claimed, it's better for few months, the sound come back again.

    The clip for the seat belt on driver side broken after 2.5 years, the stupid car was keeping beep while driving because I can't faster the seat belt.

    The steering wheel is making turn sound when you turn, while it's very smooth and quite before.

    The paint is chipping, my Honda Accord's paint maintained very well after 10 years, but the paint of this car begin to chip after one year.
  • cbrunocmecbrunocme Posts: 1
    I have an issue with both of my sliding doors

    Driver's manual slider - intermittently will not open form the inside and have to pull very hard on the outside handle and slam the door shut

    Passenger side power slider - the button's all stopped working a few weeks ago and intermittently the door will not open form the inside and have to pull very hard on the outside handle

    I was going to replace the cheap little motor in the door lock actuator on both sides but I had not read of anyone having trouble opening from the inside so I was wondering if there were other parts I should be looking at or if it still sounds like the actuator.
  • kvnimrlskvnimrls Posts: 2
    Horrible to see that so many Sienna's are having the same issue and Toyota doesn't feel it's and problem. MY '04 Sienna passenger slider is having issues. The door opens when it wants, the cable snapped, the lock is malfunctioning.
    Toyota wont fix it. Because I am the second owner, I am not eligible for the extended warranty. They know the issue exists and they could care less....
    the slider once opened while my wife was turning down our block! What do they need? A Class action law suit to get them on the ball!!!
  • The most common issue on these 2004 to 2010 Sienna power sliding door failures is the protective sheathing on the cables, and the hinges. The sheathing gets old and brittle and starts to crack and peel off. The sheathing then starts to bind up in the pulleys of the clutch, in the cable guides, or under the spool cap. This creates addition resistance when makes the motor complain, prompting most be people to think the motor is going bad. We have never had to replace a motor due to wear and tear. Its always the cable. As the sheathing peels away from the cable, it also exposes the cables to elements, Allowing the cable to rust and become brittle. Once it starts rusting it will break in short order. I do not recommend using the cable without the sheathing tho. The exposed metal cable can and will break the plastic pulleys of the clutch assembly. With no plastic coating on them to protect the thing plastic pulleys of the clutch from the steel cables, we have seen many many clutches broken beyond repair. Since we cannot fix the clutch, nor do we have an aftermarket replacement, the only other option then is to purchase the item from the dealership, and they go for over $1200 list price. So if you intend to keep the power sliding door feature in your car, I highly recommend you send them out for rebuilding before the pulleys in the clutch break.

    The second most common problem are the hinges. The first generation hinges are very thin and a prone to bending out of spec. This can make opening and closing the door difficult, and also put additional stress on the motor and cables. If the issue is bad enough it can make the cable snap, as the cables are not running in their intended pathway. This issue as been dealt with by Toyota by way of making a stronger hinge, but as most people know it is not covered under warranty. Fortunately the price of the new updated hinges isn't too expensive, under $100. I'd recommend ordering this unit from your local dealer if you need a new hinge.

    We have replacement parts for just about everything except for the clutch at this time. We also do cable replacements with brand new cables with a 90 day no hassle warranty. Contact us at Thank you!
  • gnoknutingnoknutin Posts: 1
    Which cables do you cut? I've been looking all over youtube and the internet to figure out what cables to cut and can't find anything. I don't mind having a manual door -- I just don't want to cut something I shouldn't cut.
  • Hey guyz, Bensons Auto has just posted video instructions on how to remove the Sienna sliding door motors. It really does look pretty easy.
  • ADD US TO THE LONG LIST OF GRATEFUL PEOPLE! We used the PDF you mentioned and read post #321 on this log, both extremely helpful! Ordered the part ($77.75 + $17 shipping) from our Toyota dealership, had it in 2 days and tackled the project ourselves (no mechanical know-how). 2 hours, 5 minutes later, works perfectly!!!
    It's worth mentioning that although the step-by-step PDF directions & pictures are a lifesaver , it doesn't tell you all repairs have to be made while you're INSIDE the van. We had to do this at first light because the summers in AZ are so brutal after 9am!
    Also, just for background, we took our minivan to the dealership first who quoted us $875 to fix the Door Lock Motor Release Assembly. Then went and talked to a mechanic shop down the street that a friend works at, at they quoted us $1275 to fix it (Toyota won't sell them the actual part you have to buy the WHOLE DOOR KIT otherwise they won't warranty it).
    This was by far the most helpful site and best leads on this door failure!

    Thanks again, AZ parents
  • So, how do I tell what fix I need? On my passenger auto door, it opens and closes fine if you pull on the handle. If you press the button on the fob, it tries to close and then stops right away, and it wont open with the button either. Thanks.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,426
    edited August 2013
    that is probably the actuator. I paid about $100 for mine and it took about 3 hours being very deliberate.

    I actually have a second one since there was a nick in the first one I bought so they sent another for free. I was kind of saving it in case it happens again, but we will probably sell the van in the next few months.
  • so, the instructions above from Bensons dont apply to the actuator?
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,426
    See post #321 as mentioned above.
  • if you do sell the van, please let me know if i can have the extra actuator.

  • How did you fix it
  • My girlfriend has a 2009 Sienna with power sliding doors. She is having an issue with the passenger sliding door. She said she was driving and noticed the door open light was on, pulled over and closed it. After re-closing it light went off. Later, while she was driving, the door opened all the way by itself.

    The door seems to function, (opening and closing with all switches, remote and manually) but I have noticed something odd that the passenger door is doing that the drivers side is not doing. When the door closes, you can hear, and see, the rear latch engage, but about 1-2 seconds later, you hear the latch again, and the door pops out ever so slightly. The other odd part of this is that when it first latches, the door is actually pulled in beyond the body line of the rear quarter. It's almost like it is pulling the door in to far. After the 1-2 second delay, and you hear the latch again, the door pops out a little, but at this point, the door is now in perfect line with the quarter panel like it should be. I tried pushing from the inside, and prying from the outside to teat the latch, but the door does not move.

    I'm sure this is not normal, (as the drivers side does not do this) and now we don't know if it is going to fly open again at some point or if it is truly latched. Have you heard or seen this before? Any suggestions on what might be causing the the rear latch to disengage slightly?

  • gameengineergameengineer Posts: 1
    edited October 2013
    Awesome! Your post is old but relevant. My wife's car (2006 Sienna LE) just started showing this problem. Opening or closing the sliding door works via door handles (manual unlatching) but using any button, ie FOB, interior buttons, (motor assist unlatching) does not work. Door lurches but is still latched so it fails to open. Door lock release motor acts like it is toast.

    Your part number is still valid today. I called local Toyota dealer who quoted same part (85620-08061) at $149 while the same part at ( is only $80 as of this post. And the dealer was only quoting part cost not part and installation cost.

    I am ok around mechanical things and I am cheap and refuse to pay $$$$ for this repair so this *shouldn't* be a problem to change out. The extra notes about the motor screws location being on the back of the control panel was good.

    Hopefully this repair doesn't require any special tools you have to purchase from toyota.

    Thanks so much for your very detailed post. It made a world of difference. It helped me diagnose and locate the issue without having to pull the door panel off first. Before ordering I will go ahead and pull the panel and verify the release motor is not functioning.

    Good grief I have flipp'n electric toy motors that last longer than this!
  • Thank you for the detailed heads up! Can I get the PDF you're mentioning?
    I'm new to this forum.
    If you wouldn't mind emailing it to me:
    Thank you so much!
  • I'm all for your Facebook page. I have a 2011 with the exact same issue with no real help from dealer. They continue to brush off the issue because I can get occur with them but the symptoms continue. It seems to be more frequent when parked on any sloped surface.
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