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Chevrolet Lumina Maintenance and Repair



  • ledzep2ledzep2 Posts: 1
    I can't get a straight answer on whether I need a left front strut,left front axle, ball joints or cv joint. How can I tell which I need or who is telling me the truth? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Well let's see.

    STRUT --You can bounce up and down on the left front of the car, listen for noise, or compare the resistance to the other corners of the car. You can also shine a flashlight on the strut and look for oil dripping out of it.

    AXLE -- there is no way NO WAY to visually tell if an axle CV joint is bad unless you disassemble it. But you can see if the axle boot is torn, which may only mean to replace the boot, not the whole joint, and you can drive the car in very tight left or right circles and listen for a steady clunking noise which appears in a regular rotational sound of clunking, and goes away as you straighten the wheel. For a bad LEFT axle CV joint, you'd make tight RIGHT circles.

    BALL JOINT -- a jack can be placed under them and the wear (slack) in them can be measured or estimated. Anything more than 1/8" play up and down is probably too much. If you can't see it move, then no sale.

    If a shop cannot demonstrate to you the basis for their diagnosis, other than crystal ball, intuition, or dart board, then don't believe them.


  • I gotta 92' chev lumina euro 3.1 and the engine doesn't idle and when we took the vacum tubes off the carb gas seems to be leeking out as soon as you turn the key so its been flooding the engine we think its the fuel pressure regulator but not totally sure someone wanna help out?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Don't think you have a carburetor on that puppy.


  • well carb control intake whatever
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Multi Port Fuel Injection

    You could have a sticking injector. Maybe this description will inspire you a bit:

    The fuel supply system begins with gasoline in the fuel tank. An electric fuel pump, located in the fuel tank with the fuel level gauge sending unit, pumps fuel to the fuel rail through an in-line filter. The pump is designed to supply fuel at a pressure above the pressure needed by the injectors. A pressure regulator located on the fuel rail keeps the fuel available to the injectors at a constant pressure. The unused fuel is returned to the fuel tank by a separate line.

    The ECM uses voltage inputs from several sensors to determine how much fuel to give the engine. The fuel is delivered under several conditions, called "Modes." All modes are controlled by the ECM, and are described below.

    Starting Mode:
    When the ignition is first turned "ON," the Electronic Control Module (ECM) turns "ON" the fuel pump relay for two seconds, allowing the fuel pump to build up system pressure. If the engine is immediately started, the fuel pump will continue to operate. If the key is left in the "ON" position, but the engine is not started, the ECM will turn the pump "OFF." The fuel pump will remain "OFF" until the ECM detects the crank signal, or in the case of a faulty fuel pump relay, the oil pressure switch detects approximately 4 psi of oil pressure which will then bypass the fuel pump relay.

    Fuel delivery from the port injectors (which deliver fuel in all operating modes) is controlled by changing the amount of time the injectors are turned on or "pulsed" by the ECM. The ECM checks the coolant temperature sensor, throttle position sensor, and the crank signal, and determines the proper air/fuel ratio for starting. This ranges from 1.5:1 at -36°C (-33°F) to 14.7:1 at 94°C (201°F).

    Clear Flood Mode:
    If the engine floods, clear it by pushing the accelerator all the way down. The ECM then turns "OFF" the injectors. The ECM holds this injector flow rate as long as the throttle stays wide open and the engine rpm is below 600. If the throttle position becomes less than 65%, the ECM returns to the starting mode.

    Run Mode:
    The run mode has two conditions, called "OPEN LOOP" and "CLOSED LOOP."

    OPEN LOOP: When the engine is first started, and engine speed is above 400 rpm, the system goes into "OPEN LOOP" operation. In "OPEN LOOP," the ECM ignores the signal from the Oxygen sensor, and calculates the air/fuel ratio based on inputs from the coolant temperature, throttle position, and the mass air flow (MAF) sensors.

    The system will stay in "OPEN LOOP" until the following conditions are met:

    1. The Oxygen sensor has a varying voltage output, showing that it is hot enough to operate properly. (This depends on temperature.)
    2. The Coolant temperature is above a specified temperature.
    3. A specified amount of time has elapsed after starting the engine. CLOSED LOOP: The specified operating conditions vary with different engines, and are stored in the memory calibration module (Mem-Cal). When these conditions are met, the system goes into "CLOSED LOOP" operation. In "CLOSED LOOP," the ECM calculates the air/fuel ratio (injector on-time) based on the signal from the Oxygen sensor. This allows the air/fuel ratio to stay very close to 14.7:1.

    Acceleration Mode:
    The ECM responds to rapid changes in throttle position and air flow, and provides extra fuel.

    Deceleration Mode:
    The ECM responds to changes in throttle position and air flow, and reduces the amount of fuel. When deceleration is very fast, the ECM can cut off fuel completely for short periods.

    Battery Correction Mode:
    When battery voltage is low, the ECM can compensate for the weak spark by:

    1. Increasing the amount of fuel delivered.
    2. Increasing the idle speed.
    3. Increasing the ignition dwell time.


  • So how do you think i should go about fixing that how would i do it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    I guess you could start by checking fuel pressure at the fuel rail using a fuel pressure gauge, to see if it's too high. You probably need a workshop manual if you're going to tear into the fuel injection system on your own.


  • Well what are the odds that its the fuel pressure regulator compared to the odds of it being a sticking injector?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    That's a good question. I don't really have the experience with that car to answer with any legitimacy.

    Why don't you re-post your original question, with all the details, to our Answers Department? Maybe one of the technicians who visit there has a better idea for you:



  • I have a 97 chevy lumina. I recently had it in the shop for a problemwith starting. while there they said that the cooling fans were not coming on and that it was because of a relay switch that was stuck. They said that they cleaned it and now it is working, but I never hear the fans coming on. How do I tell if they are and where do I find the switch to clean it off myself if it's not working?
  • slindemanslindeman Posts: 1
    Ok so i got the power steering pump put in but i guess it only came with one screw and it needed three so my belt came off. Now i am wondering if i need to buy a new pump or if i can just get the screws and serpentine belt?
  • jonboy85jonboy85 Posts: 3

    I have a 1994 Lumina Sedan with grinding front-end brakes. Could this just be a sticky brake caliper? Or is it just a worn-to-the-knub disc shoe? I'm putting it in the shop tomorrow AM, but just thought I'd ask.

  • I have a 97 Lumina,that will tirn over but wont fire,then back fires,,what is wrong?
  • I have a '99 lumina 3.1, if I leave the car parked for a couple of days the battery will go dead and have to jump start the car. Replaced the battery about 2 months ago with a new one and the problem is still there. Any suggestion please?
  • Okay. Im only 16 years old, so lord knows i dont know what im doing... but this is my first car, and the last 2 days that I have drove it, my car has overheated and started smoking. I got someone to look at it, and they said that it was leaking antifreeze. They changed my antifreeze and put more in it. Well my temperature still keeps rising and still overheats and smokes. I dont know what to do.

    Another problem is every since I got the car, when I change the gears, the car jerks pretty bad. My brother told me it was nothing, but a friend of mine said I need to have it looked at. Does anyone know what could be wrong with it/.
  • Find thesource of the leak. Ask someone with experience.

    I assume you have a stick shift. If so check the clutch.
    If it is an automatic check the transmission!
  • I got a 1999 lumina 3.1 automatic. Its been running great since we got it about 4 years ago. just normal maintenance, battery, and starter last year. It's got 198,000 miles on it and ran fine until today. Drove to take my daughter to dentist, no problem, got back in to leave and it won't turn over. The dash lights come on, window's work, just won't turn over with the key. I can jump across the solenoid on the starter and it turns over, start's, then dies after about 3 second's. Any advise would be appreciated.
  • It could be your passkey/passlock system. When the key is in the 'On' position, does your security light flash?
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