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Ford Explorer Electrical Problems



  • I could add to that class action suit as at 72,000 miles my transmission was replaced due to unpredictable, dangerous stalling while driving 75 miles per hour on a freeway, a ford dealer told me to replace the transmission as the transmissiom head had completely cracked?
    I have since read on this blog of a similar problem that some one else had and they only replaced the V2V valve, now am wondering if I got taken by ford yet again, anyway I have also had to replace the ball joints in front at 72000 miles, so I would be interested in a suit
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    This sucks, but you may have no recourse. This is not common, but there was a recall on SOME Ford trucks about a speed control connection that could cause a fire. I have no idea if your truck was included in the recall. Also, if so, it may have already been fixed. Otherwise, it's not a design flaw on the truck. Apparently you don't what the cause was, so I don't either.
    Could be electrical, or fuel, like a burst pressure hose that was spilling gas, which caught fire? Who knows?

    It's 10 years old, old cars have issues. Very sad this happened, it's not your fault, but not likely anybody's fault. It's not
    Ford's fault, their Explorers are generally very durable and dependable. More likely a mechanic error, left a clamp off or maybe a bad piece of tube or hose?

    Yes, you'll have to pay for the car, and if you didn't have Comprehensive insurance, you aren't covered. As I said, it sucks, and I feel very badly for you. :sick:
  • miky64miky64 Posts: 1
    i have a 1997 explorer lt trac con 4 dr it seems my sebser on the door light st ys on for about 20 mins or more .it seems to kill my battery .and then sometimes it goes out .did u ever have a problem with a funny noise in the left front wheel .it seems if u are going 80 kms its not to bad but when u it ,100 kms.its bad can it be a bearing fr sitting .and wear is the sencer for the dome lights .can u help .mat be able to set it .thanks mike
  • i have a 95 ford explorer with 4.0 liter motor.ive replaced plug wires 5 times and plugs 3 times.used belden wires last time and autolite platinum plugs.runs great for an hour or so then misses really bad like its missing 2 cyl. im stumped now.what could cause this??
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    No check engine light or other lights on? When you take the old plugs out, what's their condition? Wet? Oily? Carboned up? One set of new cables would do it, so stop changing those. How many miles are on it? The 4.0 is a damn good engine, even if abused, it will last a long time.
  • no check engine light.plugs look fine when i remove them.cleaned the air idle control.when its first cranked up it runs like a new explorer.has 1000000 miles. can be running great and stop to get gas an cut it off then it misses.idled it for 2 hours one day before it started missing. after putting several plug wire sets in noticed i could see sum spark in wires.used wire covers for last set of beldens put on. the running great at start then swithing to bad miss is whats throwing me off.
  • I have put 140K miles on my 2004 Explorer. Among the usual issues over the years, it now has blinkers that have decided to work only when they want to. When they are not in the mood to blink, they just stay on. Cold, heat, use, length of time car has been on; there seems to be no common factor. Any ideas?
  • 2007 Sport Trac V8 4.2L warning system periodically indicates "check charging system". I had the alternator bench checked at a local parts store, but with several attempts they cannot get it to display a failed test.

    I know that the alternator works (at least most of the time because the battery stays charged) and might just periodically fail (diode stuck open?). I'd hate to replace the alternator just to find that the system indicator is actually triggered by some other component.

    Has anyone had similar symptoms and found a different cause of the problem?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You need a new blinker switch, goes in your fuse panel and looks like a small tin cup. Pull it out, put in a new one.
  • rzaruizrzaruiz Posts: 1
    I've never been a Ford person but since i married into one i have no choice but to try and see if there's anything i can do. I recently purchased new tires for my husbands truck and went to a Ford Dealership to have the car aligned. I was told this truck couldn't be aligned because there was a part that i needed to install in order to align it. The part runs around $200 to $300 per tire. I may be a woman but I've been maintaining my car for a long time and I've never been told this with my truck or car. Not sure if its a Ford thing but has anyone else been told this with their truck?

  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Actually, no. How many miles on her? I can't imagine what it could be..... They RARELY need alignment until they have over 100,000 miles on 'em. Even if they've jumped curbs. They are tough as nails.
  • jdndvrsjdndvrs Posts: 1
    We have the same vehicle and just started having the same problem. Have you found out a cure yet. I carry a meter with me and as soon as my warning light comes on, I check and it is charging anywhere from 13.64 to 13.f1 volts, depending on what is on.
  • We have 2006 Explorer and the interior dome lights don't work. Now just noticed that the dash instrument lights are out when lights are off (they should be bright). They do work (and dimmer will brighten/dim) when lights are on (both parking and headlamp modes). No fuses seem to be at issue.

    We also cannot get the oil life message reset....

  • I should clarify that the dome light that won't come on is the one in the back (ceiling mount over the back seat). The lights in front (courtesy) do work.
    I tried bulb change to no avail.
  • re_mechre_mech Posts: 1
    I have a '99 XLT. The radio has been intermittent for a few weeks. I pulled it out and found a bare, uninsulated wire in the wire harness. I don't think it is structural in any way. It just seems wrong. There is no signs of damage. I can't tell where it goes without unraveling the entire bundle. Anyone ever seen this?
  • Last week it was raining so I had my wipers on. I smoke so my window was down a lil bit. I got to work that night and I let the window up and turned off the ignition. 8 hours later I get in and the wipers are on. I tried to turn them off but they were stick on. I could not change the setting.. they were stuck on one speed. The windows would not go down on any window... and when I leave my key in the ignition the ding ding does not happen. Anything simple that would explain this?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    It's possible you need to push the Info button on the dash, may turn it on. Also, are your instrument panel lights working? If not, it's probably just turned down very low, or off.

    Failing those two possibilities, it will probably need a new panel.
  • I have a 2007 Explorer Eddie Baurer with approx 44,000 miles. Recently the vehicle eletrical system has gone on the fritz. The temp controls race high then low and the warning lights come on then go off. After this happens the vehicle will not start. Then later it will start and drive with no issues. I repleaced the battery and it happened again. The system chack says everything is fine. Also it has a electric starter that will not function after this happens. Could there be a short in the system?

  • johnminnjohnminn Posts: 52
    edited January 2013
    When I run into “inexplicable” (what the over????) Electrical problems I check out the grounding points. If you find a grounding point which looks questionable, then disassemble the grounding point, clean it and check the lead wires. Do inspect the connector for corrosion where the wire goes into the lug. I have found connections where the corrosion has worked it’s way up the wire as much as four feet and I had to replace the connector and the wire. IF you find this, be sure that where you make your new connection and wire is WELL sealed and possibly at a low corrosion point.
    When reestablishing the ground point, I use anti corrosive paste and star washers. (Star washer lead(s) star washer, flat washer and then nut or screw). I can not even count the number of times I have found this to be the cure.
    DO NOT replace high buck items unless that component fails on a bench test. For example almost any battery supplier has a tester for testing the battery under load.

    PS: If the grounding point is severely deteriorated, make up a new grounding conductor and add that to the original grounding point and connect the new lead to a good clean chassis point. I have gone so far as to drill a 5/16ths hole in a good clean frame point and then ground the new ground wire there with a bolt and washers and anti corrosive.
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