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Ford Explorer Electrical Problems

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  • I can't find the passenger compartment fuse panel. The rear wiper motor quit working. The manual says it's under the drivers side gauge panel. Does anyone know, I feel like an idiot.
  • cruachancruachan Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Exploer Eddie Bauer 4.0. The daytime running lights flash intermittently. It is happening more often. Any ideas?
  • mlsimonmlsimon Posts: 2
    I felt like an idiot too. I just purchased my 06 Explorer and looked for the panel 3 times before I finally found it. Look up under the dash of the driver's side and it is closer to the door. The fuse panel cover is about 2" x 5". It is very hard to spot, but once you see it, you won't believe you missed it. Hey, do you know if I can use my cigar lighter as a power port? The manual says that it is only to be used as a lighter.
  • jonesdorijonesdori Posts: 2
    Hi, Thanks to your help I found it, it was a bit obscured because I have my trailer electric brakes in that area. I'm getting too old to bend like that. As to the power ports, I use both of my ports to charge my cell phones and I have no problems. Again, thanks for your response. Dick Jones
  • mlsimonmlsimon Posts: 2
    Glad I could help. I don't think anyone should have to bend like that. I must have a blown fuse in my fuse panel under the hood if my front port isn't working. Glad to hear that you use them both.
  • tommyr2tommyr2 Posts: 1
    i recently purchased a 96 ford explorer and when i first got it the windows would roll down with the key on. but after i start the vehicle the windows dont work. now they only work sometimes. only when to engine is not running as soon as i start it they dont do anything. ive checked fuses and circuts,relays. any ideas
  • bucanolebucanole Posts: 18
    Thunderbolt have you by any chance found the answer or a solution to your problem? I have the same one in regards to the window and door ajar light. The door ajar problem I am hoping will be fixed by sparying WD40 on the swing bar (TBD). The windows I fear are from a dead motor and if so I know that's a pricy fix.

    Is anyone using aftermarket motors on their windows, mine have failed on my 03 EB V6 at least twice each while under warranty (expired now)?
  • On my wifes 2004 explorer both the driver side and the passenger driver side windows do not work. First the passenger window quit now her driver side window quit. I would say it is the switch but any help would be great. Also how do you get in to the door panel to check or even exchange the switch if I can pick it up at the auto store.
    :surprise:
  • peezalpeezal Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2002 ford explorer, made the last payment in April, and in May a problem began. When I start the car, the day lights blink on and off like a police car. If I turn on the headlights, the blinking stops. It's kinda funny how many people pull over for me, but I would like to fix the problem. This has been happening for a few weeks now, and I have a feeling that the dash lights are going to go soon..
    Anyone have any Ideas? thanks
  • peezalpeezal Posts: 2
    did you get a resolve to this problem. I have the same issue with my ford explorer.
    Thanks
  • tangled911tangled911 Posts: 1
    Had the same problem I replaced the daytime running lights module also check for broken wires at module. On a 95 explorer it is located on the drivers side rad support access is from underneath it`s a rectangular box.
  • all my fuses are good one day i put the battery in wrong and there wnt my raido and inside lights any know how to solve this problem everything else works is the raido connected to the same source as the inside light ? i liked to know whatwire it is so i can fix it any know
  • gradwjtgradwjt Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Ford explorer XLT that started having some electrical problems about the same time. The headlights do not come on automatically but work from switch (Ford dealer said the sensor was working and was sending signal to turn lights on). The map lights work when the ignition is off but not from switch when ignition is on. They work from the dimmer though. The door locks will not unlock from either door switch, but will from key fob. They will not lock from key fob, but will operate from door switch. However, when I press lock twice on the key fob the horn will sound even though the doors do not lock.
  • jem1947jem1947 Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem. First the passenger door locks quit working from the fob and the door panel . I can unlock with the key. Now the drivers side stopped working and will not open with key. It will go down from the door panel but not open. Have to reach acrss from passenger side and pull the door hanle. Any one have any ideas? :(
  • oscar50oscar50 Posts: 5
    tommyr2 did you ever get it fixws I HAVE SAME PROBLEM MY EMAIL IS
    96 Explorer with pwr only operate with ignition on engine off
    sethar@live.com thanks
  • oscar50oscar50 Posts: 5
    My 96 ford explorer suddenly developed a problem with the power windows not working when the engine is running. With engine off and ignition on, the windows
    work. I tried replacing the Accy delay relay with no sucess any suggestions thanks
  • oscar50oscar50 Posts: 5
    FYI I went to junk yard and found a 96 with the same features.....swapp :D ed out the GEM and now I'm cruising down route 66 . Thanks for sites like this ....knowledge is Power
  • I have '98 Explore. I have no brake lights or turn signals. The fuses and lamos are good. Is there a common point where these two come together? I do not have any schematics.
  • 98 exp xlt door lock switch will not lock, just open both pass and driver side. Switch in hatch locks and opens

    When I bought the car used, the remote would open but not lock the doors. The alarm system thinks it is locked because you could arm it just by pressing the lock button. I would lock the doors by pressing the switch on either door. Recently, both switches will now only open, they will not lock, but the switch in the hatch still locks and opens the doors. The touch pad on the drives door also will open just the drivers door as it should, and all the doors when 3/4 is pressed. It cannot be used to lock the car, but will activate the alarm if you enter the code and it thinks you are locking it. I changed all 4 relays in the back, no help. All fuses are ok.

    I checked for a broken wire could not find one.
  • We bought an explorer used and didn't realize that a lot of the fuses were missing. We put them all in and the one for the overdrive and the rear defrost keeps blowing. We even tried to put one in that was stronger. We have had the vehicle for about a month now and went outside last night to hear a noise. the light was on in the vehicle and the power locks were unlocking and locking over and over again. We ended up unplugging the battery becuase we could get it to stop... WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE VEHICLE?? Please help! :(
  • I am not sure what your problem is but I had similar problems when I noticed my Power windows stopped working . The back window wiper stopped and the dome lights. At one point their engine started miss firing and stopped. I tried replacing a bunch of relays that the guys on this web spoke of' the accy delay relay etc . Finally I went to what is described as the GEM it is a circuit board in a little box which is mounted on my explorer(1996 ) to the left of the radio. It is about six inches by 4 inches and is mounted vertically . You have to pull out the radio and fan control . It comes out pretty easily after you take out the two screws below the radio. This module is a brain that controls a lot of stuff. I found a similar explorer at my local junk yard and bought it at a reasonalbe price. I put it in and all my problems went away.
  • Thank you so much... i just took it to a shop to diagnose and they charged me 250.00 and didn;t tell us a thing... ugh starting to hate cars! :mad:
  • Well look at it this way it could have been worse , hopefully you are set to go for awhile . Sounds like you have a pretty good shop to go to. That sounds like a reasonable price. I live in PA near allentown and find it very diffulcult to find a
    honest mechanic.
  • I have a 96 model. Having increasingly serious electrical issues. For no reason instrument lights go on an off, windows work sometimes and sometimes not, and the remote alarm will go off with no warning. Yesterday I was in it and instrument lights were going off and on and now the 'door ajar' alarm goes on and off for no reason. Engine runs fine and car is ok otherwise. Oh, and the blower fan for heater and a/c does not work. Is this a major headache or a simple problem to locate and fix?
  • I have a problem with my 1997 Ford Exploder that is absolutely driving me bonkers, and before I take it to another service shop to have them charge me $300 for not fixing it, I thought I'd post my problem here first.

    I have a radio that just gets CRAPPY reception. I mean -- it seems to lose signal power. And strangely enough, this happens slowly, like over the course of four or five months. Local stations that used to come in loud and clear give me only static now. And then -- after about six months of this garbage -- the situation reverses itself. The signal slowly GROWS in strength -- until I have A-1 excellent reception from local and non-local stations.

    This great reception will last for approximately six months, and then start that downward slide to static hell again. I'm telling you -- this is driving me nuts. Ford installed some sort of connection between the antenna and radio, promising that would solve the problem, but the static only got louder.

    Have any of you had ANY issues with this? Can you provide any help?

    The CD player on this thing works fine. It's the only part of the radio that I can rely upon with regularity.

    Thank you,

    Bill
  • If you have a premium sound system from the factory and have a sub in the rear, the amp and 2nd part of your radio is located with the sub. I replaced my radio and took the amp, sub and 2nd part of radio out to make more room
  • Had a similar problem with my 2008 Ford Explorer. The car would die usually in the middle of an intersection-extremely dangerous situation. Had the battery and alternator tested on the vehicle and they checked out ok. The voltage guage would be a little low of middle range. Had a check engine light on which was probably unrelated a oxygen sensor i believe. Car finally died on the side of the interstate and i removed both the battery and the alternator and took them in to be bench tested. Both tested bad or weak on the bench test and i replaced them for about $300. Havent had this problem now for about a year and my wife has been driving it every day.
  • dmr59dmr59 Posts: 1
    i am having issues w my a/c on my sport trac.....i just found that there is no pomer getting to the a/c comp. i no longer have my manuals and wanted to see which was the relay or fuse that drives the a/c.

    thanks
  • seems many many people have the same problem with the radio staying on while the truck is off... spitting out cds then suckn'em back up again all by itself... its been draining my battery! ugh.. ok so does anyone know for sure what it is? is it the radio? is the the truck sending a signal to the radio? does it help when i punch the face of the radio? (cd's get stuck sometimes and wont eject)... ideas? thanks...
  • Maybe someone can help me, I recently bought a used 04 explorer, after I start it the Battery gauge(on the instrument panel)starts to climb to H. When it gets to the H everything on the instrument panel seems to die.. my power windows and locks dont work, my radio doesnt work and all the needles on the instrument panel go as if the car was shut off. I checked the fuses and they all look good. I dont know what else to do...

    Thanks....
    Tom
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