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Ford Explorer Electrical Problems

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  • Hello..I am Having the same problem with my 99 explorer. I have replaced Battery and alt.. And No Help...Couple things to check..Ingnition...And also there is a test to check if their ids a circuit not closing when it should..Its not hard to do but Long to explain..You need a test light remove the Positive cable to batt..link Test light to the cable and the battery..1 by 1 start pulling the fuses in your vehicle when the light goes out that will tell you if you have a circuit not closing..BUT this step didn't work for me Maybe better luck with you..Let me know.. Good Luck
  • Sounds Like a Voltage regulator which is in the back of your alt... If you have a volt meter and a haynes book It will tell you the amount of volts you should be having...12 from the Battery and 14-14 with the motor running check it at the vbattery..If this is not helping..There are 3 hook ups at the alt...the single wire should read 1 volt.. the Power wire..attached with the nut at the alt..should read 12 ...Voltage regulators funtion is to stop over charging the system..1 phase is higher range for driving around town the 2nd phase is to limit the ams when on freeway and such so it does not over charge the system..Sounds like yours is over charging..Have it tested alt.. cost 150.. So the should be able to tell you A Normal alt is 14 -15 volts....Good luck
  • Hello..Check the Grounding strap from the Body to your motor..It should be located in the middle of the Fire wall..It is a braided strap..If this ground is Loose or corroded it may cause Blinking Lights..I Had an old mach 1 And always got pulled over because they thought i was flashing my lights at them..lol.. But it was the strap..Hope this Helps
  • My 1999 Ford Explorer is draining battery. The battery will charge just fine and it will start again. Even if you turn the car off after you jump it, it would start right away. After 4 hours of not running, it will drain the battery again. I do not see any symptoms with the car other than the battery draining with it sits. I remember this problem with my other 1997 Explorer and the mechanic bought some parts and went under the car and replaced something under by the oil drainage. He did not open the hood, he just went under but I do not remember what it was.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • Just want everyone to know. I have a 2003 explorer limited and the door adjar light and dome light would stay on and the drivers side window and power door lock buttons would stop working. After several hours of troubleshooting I found broken wires in the factory wire harness in the middle of the drivers door jamb. It looks like when they installed the harness in the factory the harness got snagged on something and cut 3 wires slightly. After a few years of normal use of the door 2 out of the 3 wires finally separated from each other opening 2 important circuts for the door. I spliced the wires back together and never had an electrical problem since.
  • reeccreecc Posts: 2
    2002 EXPLORER XLS.
    I've been having the same problem and it has become worse over the years. It started off as the door ajar/dome light staying on but when the dealer fix my TRANSMISSION PROBLEM (1st & 3rd gears broke and fell into the trans), I believe they fixed the problem; which i think was a short in the passenger door. Recently, my car shut off on me 3 times! First i replaced the battery (it was time). the second time i was on the eway, the car started riding kind of ruff and then it just shut off. I had to cost to the bottom of the exit ramp. I replaced the alternator. Just 2 days ago, someone jumped infront of me to where I had to hit my break, just hard enough from my purse to fall on the floor. When I slowed down to start at the light the car shut off. Thank goodness it started back up, but I really need to get this fixed. Not to mention the locks flicking back and forth sometimes! When I was cleaning the snow off my windows the locks started flickering and locked me out with the car running! How much did it cost to reprogram the computer and replace the throttle?
  • I did not reporgram the computer or replace the throttle. I found defects in the wiring harness in the door jamb. when you open your car door you will see what looks like a collapsable rubber hose. That houses a wire harness which feeds many wire circuits to your door components. When you cleaned snow off of your car some snow probably got down into your door jamb and shorted out the power door lock circuit and made them activate the door locks. If I were you I would open the door, pull back on the rubber to expose the factory wire harness, and see if there's any cuts on those wires. It's really easy and you can't break anything doing it. If a wire breaks while doing it then that means you just found an intermittant circuit. And it's broken wires like that, that are giving you intermittant problems with your power door locks and dome light being on. I had a few broken wires and a few cut wires ready to break. As far as the car shutting off when you break hard well that's probably a totally separate problem. Maybe you need a tune up with new plugs and fuel filter. At what RPM does your car idle at? Does it even hold a constant idle? You see, when you brake hard thers's a large pressure differential in your intale manifold from when your just driving down the road. Whatever's suppose to help your engine recover from that and help it idle may be where your problem is.
    I hope this helps, and I hope you find some broken wires in your door jamb because it's a very easy fix.
  • reeccreecc Posts: 2
    2002 EXPLORER XLS.
    I've been having the same problem and it has become worse over the years. It started off as the door ajar/dome light staying on but when the dealer fix my TRANSMISSION PROBLEM (1st & 3rd gears broke and fell into the trans), I believe they fixed the problem; which i think was a short in the passenger door. Recently, my car shut off on me 3 times! First i replaced the battery (it was time). the second time i was on the eway, the car started riding kind of ruff and then it just shut off. I had to cost to the bottom of the exit ramp. I replaced the alternator. Just 2 days ago, someone jumped infront of me to where I had to hit my break, just hard enough from my purse to fall on the floor. When I slowed down to start at the light the car shut off. Thank goodness it started back up, but I really need to get this fixed. Not to mention the locks flicking back and forth sometimes! When I was cleaning the snow off my windows the locks started flickering and locked me out with the car running! How much did it cost to reprogram the computer and replace the throttle?
  • leroyb1leroyb1 Posts: 1
    i need to replace the switch,i have to hold the light switch to keep them burning.never replced one before can you help?
  • jimmyd27jimmyd27 Posts: 1
    I have a 03 Ford Explorer XLT V6 FFV, and when I park my car and turn off every light switch in the vehicle the rear brake lights stay on. Yes I know brake lights are only in the rear but, I over explain things. If anyone has any Ideas on what I can do before letting the dealership anal probe through my wallet. I am all ears and eager to learn. I am going to try to change the daytime run lights relay first then check back here for the next couple of days. before heading back to the dealership. Please tell your ideas, comments, or just opinions. There is no bad suggestions if it leads to the right solution.......
  • 7203fast7203fast Posts: 1
    You may need to replace your brake light switch . I had the same problem with my lights and the switch was sticking.
  • jbeamonjbeamon Posts: 2
    I was a mechanic for about 12 yrs. but haven't been in the biz for about 7 more. I have a '97 Explorer V6 where the alternator light comes on intermittently while driving. Now when I have the vehicle parked, I checked the voltage. It held steady in idle at 14.0V so I rev the engine up until the light came on and watched the voltage drop to 13V. The belt doesn't seem to be slipping. Are these late model fords using internal regulators? If so, will I need to replace the alternator?
  • jbeamonjbeamon Posts: 2
    Had the alternator tested, I am told that the alternator is fine. The light was intermittent and after the car warmed up, it went out then right before I had it tested, the light came on and stayed on but they said it tests fine. What gives? Could it be the diode in the alternator?
  • I have an electrical/mechanical clicking noise that is coming from the left rear inside (just inside tailgate on driver's side, under trim panel, down close to floor). It usually happens when I first start the vehicle when it hasn't been driven in say 24 hours. It will stop clicking on its own eventually. Sounds sort of like a relay, clicking about once per second and is relatively noisy. The vehicle has factory rear air and heat vents. I can turn up the fan speed on the rear air ducts then turn it back down and that seems to cause it to stop clicking sooner than it would if I do nothing. I definitely think it is part of the electrical circuit for the rear air conditioning/heat fan. Any ideas on what may be causing this? Could this be a problem in the electrical circuit somewhere else other than where the clicking is coming from? I have not figured out how to get behind the plastic trim panel to eyeball what is making the sound yet.
  • tjinpatjinpa Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 98 Mountaineer. I got the door boot pulled back and found 3 broken wires. How can i take this apart so i can repain the wires?

    T J
  • brews62brews62 Posts: 1
    I have just bought a 93 explorer. I have had a problem with no start. It is equiped with a remote start and has on 2 occations go to turn the key and nothing there. only getting 4.65 V at the remote start. Anyone with this problem or fix for this???
  • All I did was pull the door boot to the side, then strip the wires that were broken then crimp on but splices. You will need a pair of wire strippers and a pair of crimpers. Do not try and use a pair of striper/crimper combo set. you won't be able to get the crimper portion of the tool into the door jamb. I think I used the blue automotive but splices. Then that's it. Crimp on the splices and your good to go.

    Just a tip. It's a pain to do everything with one hand because your other hand is holding the boot out of the way, soo you may want to have someone leaning over your shoulder doing that for you as you crimp the splices onto the wires.
  • rstorey1rstorey1 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 explorer and can't get the power locks to work. They unlock but won't lock and the fob won't work iether. The rear lock works properly but door locks won't
  • kmeiner03kmeiner03 Posts: 9
    Do you use the FOB to unlock the car or the key?

    Just for the hell of it open the drivers door and the passenger door and pull back on the rubber boot the covers the wiring harness. See if there's any broken wires in the harness. I talked to alot of people with wiring problems in the door jamb and there's usually a few broken wires. It seems to be a common problem with the Ford Explorer.
  • brokefordbrokeford Posts: 1
    I have a 95 explorer. my daytime running lights stayed on and would drain the battery dead. it turned out to be the daytime running light module, located under the bumper drivers side, looks like a small amplifier, one electrical plug. the reason the lights stay on is because this module has a direct link to the battery, so if the "solenoid" sticks your lights don't turn off. the thing costs too much so i just removed mine and now the problem is fixed, however you will lose your high beams indication and emergency brake indication, and of course no daytime running lights. headlights and brights will still work. hope that helps.
  • I took my rig into the car wash tonight and when we came out to leave i turned my headlights on and the display light on my radio goes off and the radio still works just fine.. but when i turned off my headlight the display light for my clock popped back on like normal. What could be causing this issue.
    Thanks for any help at all.....
  • I have a 2002 Explorer and I'm changing the battery terminal. I purchased a universal. It does not fit because of the plastic tray that's over the battery post. Can I take that off (it's also on the positive side as well) to make it fit....and why would the ground wire spark when I'm trying to hook things back up? I see a set of ground wires..there are 2--i had to cut the plastic off to expose more wire...do they still need to be separated? Also, when I touch the ground wire to the new terminal, the lights flash and I hear a click as well as some sparks. I don't have anyone with mechanical knowledge available in the neighborhood at the moment and I really need to get this done...I have no other transportation...Thanks!
  • dallasmdallasm Posts: 2
    I got a real electrical challenge for you "experts" out there. Ready?
    First thing to go out was my side mirrors. Then I started having problems with the car starting which was thought to be the fuel pump but now turns out to be electrical. Every now and then i have to pop the hood and wiggle the fuse box to get the fuel pump to kick in. Now my windows dont work and that a/c has cut out. Tomorrow they might work but today they dont. Periodically they work. Its like the car has a mind of its own and windows and a/c will work only when it wants too. Anyone out there deal with this problem? I sure would appreciate some advice on this because driving around tucson , arizona with the windows up and NO A/C is gonna kill me.

    thanks
  • kmeiner03kmeiner03 Posts: 9
    I never claim to be an expert. just a guy that loves to fix things. Anyways, if I were you I would find the cpu and pull every plug off and check each pin for corrosion. Since you seem to have random problems scattered in different areas I would start there.
  • dallasmdallasm Posts: 2
    Where is the cpu?
  • fishinjimfishinjim Posts: 4
    I have a 2005 Explorer V8 Limited.
    Yesterday, driving it, AC and stereo playing. We turned on the headlights and the AC stopped blowing, the console lights dimmed, and the radio stopped playing. Turning the headlights off and everything started back working.

    Today, I had the battery tested and it tested OK. Placing the battery back in the car and now everything works again.

    Any ideas?

    Jim
  • kmeiner03kmeiner03 Posts: 9
    did you have your altenator tested? I've had simmilar problems in the past and it ended up being the alternator. and during the problems I never got the battery light on the dash.

    -kevin
  • fishinjimfishinjim Posts: 4
    I have not had the alternator tested. I ran the system self check from the dash and it passed the Charging System test but I will have it checked as well.

    Jim
  • fishinjimfishinjim Posts: 4
    ok, I had autozone test the alternator and it tested ok.
    another incident today - my wife was driving the kids down the expressway and the open door dingdingding sound happened.
    It's off to the dealer tomorrow morning but it's gonna be very hard to diagnose.
  • fishinjimfishinjim Posts: 4
    I have a 2005 Ford Explorer Limited and although I wasn't in a carwash, I had the exact problem with my headlights and display console.

    I don't have a resolution yet but I did unplug my battery for a good 20 or so minutes (to have it tested) and when I plugged it back in, everything went back to normal.

    Jim
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