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Ford Explorer Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • I am not sure what your problem is but I had similar problems when I noticed my Power windows stopped working . The back window wiper stopped and the dome lights. At one point their engine started miss firing and stopped. I tried replacing a bunch of relays that the guys on this web spoke of' the accy delay relay etc . Finally I went to what is described as the GEM it is a circuit board in a little box which is mounted on my explorer(1996 ) to the left of the radio. It is about six inches by 4 inches and is mounted vertically . You have to pull out the radio and fan control . It comes out pretty easily after you take out the two screws below the radio. This module is a brain that controls a lot of stuff. I found a similar explorer at my local junk yard and bought it at a reasonalbe price. I put it in and all my problems went away.
  • Thank you so much... i just took it to a shop to diagnose and they charged me 250.00 and didn;t tell us a thing... ugh starting to hate cars! :mad:
  • Well look at it this way it could have been worse , hopefully you are set to go for awhile . Sounds like you have a pretty good shop to go to. That sounds like a reasonable price. I live in PA near allentown and find it very diffulcult to find a
    honest mechanic.
  • I have a 96 model. Having increasingly serious electrical issues. For no reason instrument lights go on an off, windows work sometimes and sometimes not, and the remote alarm will go off with no warning. Yesterday I was in it and instrument lights were going off and on and now the 'door ajar' alarm goes on and off for no reason. Engine runs fine and car is ok otherwise. Oh, and the blower fan for heater and a/c does not work. Is this a major headache or a simple problem to locate and fix?
  • I have a problem with my 1997 Ford Exploder that is absolutely driving me bonkers, and before I take it to another service shop to have them charge me $300 for not fixing it, I thought I'd post my problem here first.

    I have a radio that just gets CRAPPY reception. I mean -- it seems to lose signal power. And strangely enough, this happens slowly, like over the course of four or five months. Local stations that used to come in loud and clear give me only static now. And then -- after about six months of this garbage -- the situation reverses itself. The signal slowly GROWS in strength -- until I have A-1 excellent reception from local and non-local stations.

    This great reception will last for approximately six months, and then start that downward slide to static hell again. I'm telling you -- this is driving me nuts. Ford installed some sort of connection between the antenna and radio, promising that would solve the problem, but the static only got louder.

    Have any of you had ANY issues with this? Can you provide any help?

    The CD player on this thing works fine. It's the only part of the radio that I can rely upon with regularity.

    Thank you,

    Bill
  • If you have a premium sound system from the factory and have a sub in the rear, the amp and 2nd part of your radio is located with the sub. I replaced my radio and took the amp, sub and 2nd part of radio out to make more room
  • Had a similar problem with my 2008 Ford Explorer. The car would die usually in the middle of an intersection-extremely dangerous situation. Had the battery and alternator tested on the vehicle and they checked out ok. The voltage guage would be a little low of middle range. Had a check engine light on which was probably unrelated a oxygen sensor i believe. Car finally died on the side of the interstate and i removed both the battery and the alternator and took them in to be bench tested. Both tested bad or weak on the bench test and i replaced them for about $300. Havent had this problem now for about a year and my wife has been driving it every day.
  • dmr59dmr59 Posts: 1
    i am having issues w my a/c on my sport trac.....i just found that there is no pomer getting to the a/c comp. i no longer have my manuals and wanted to see which was the relay or fuse that drives the a/c.

    thanks
  • seems many many people have the same problem with the radio staying on while the truck is off... spitting out cds then suckn'em back up again all by itself... its been draining my battery! ugh.. ok so does anyone know for sure what it is? is it the radio? is the the truck sending a signal to the radio? does it help when i punch the face of the radio? (cd's get stuck sometimes and wont eject)... ideas? thanks...
  • Maybe someone can help me, I recently bought a used 04 explorer, after I start it the Battery gauge(on the instrument panel)starts to climb to H. When it gets to the H everything on the instrument panel seems to die.. my power windows and locks dont work, my radio doesnt work and all the needles on the instrument panel go as if the car was shut off. I checked the fuses and they all look good. I dont know what else to do...

    Thanks....
    Tom
  • Hello..I am Having the same problem with my 99 explorer. I have replaced Battery and alt.. And No Help...Couple things to check..Ingnition...And also there is a test to check if their ids a circuit not closing when it should..Its not hard to do but Long to explain..You need a test light remove the Positive cable to batt..link Test light to the cable and the battery..1 by 1 start pulling the fuses in your vehicle when the light goes out that will tell you if you have a circuit not closing..BUT this step didn't work for me Maybe better luck with you..Let me know.. Good Luck
  • Sounds Like a Voltage regulator which is in the back of your alt... If you have a volt meter and a haynes book It will tell you the amount of volts you should be having...12 from the Battery and 14-14 with the motor running check it at the vbattery..If this is not helping..There are 3 hook ups at the alt...the single wire should read 1 volt.. the Power wire..attached with the nut at the alt..should read 12 ...Voltage regulators funtion is to stop over charging the system..1 phase is higher range for driving around town the 2nd phase is to limit the ams when on freeway and such so it does not over charge the system..Sounds like yours is over charging..Have it tested alt.. cost 150.. So the should be able to tell you A Normal alt is 14 -15 volts....Good luck
  • Hello..Check the Grounding strap from the Body to your motor..It should be located in the middle of the Fire wall..It is a braided strap..If this ground is Loose or corroded it may cause Blinking Lights..I Had an old mach 1 And always got pulled over because they thought i was flashing my lights at them..lol.. But it was the strap..Hope this Helps
  • My 1999 Ford Explorer is draining battery. The battery will charge just fine and it will start again. Even if you turn the car off after you jump it, it would start right away. After 4 hours of not running, it will drain the battery again. I do not see any symptoms with the car other than the battery draining with it sits. I remember this problem with my other 1997 Explorer and the mechanic bought some parts and went under the car and replaced something under by the oil drainage. He did not open the hood, he just went under but I do not remember what it was.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • Just want everyone to know. I have a 2003 explorer limited and the door adjar light and dome light would stay on and the drivers side window and power door lock buttons would stop working. After several hours of troubleshooting I found broken wires in the factory wire harness in the middle of the drivers door jamb. It looks like when they installed the harness in the factory the harness got snagged on something and cut 3 wires slightly. After a few years of normal use of the door 2 out of the 3 wires finally separated from each other opening 2 important circuts for the door. I spliced the wires back together and never had an electrical problem since.
  • reeccreecc Posts: 2
    2002 EXPLORER XLS.
    I've been having the same problem and it has become worse over the years. It started off as the door ajar/dome light staying on but when the dealer fix my TRANSMISSION PROBLEM (1st & 3rd gears broke and fell into the trans), I believe they fixed the problem; which i think was a short in the passenger door. Recently, my car shut off on me 3 times! First i replaced the battery (it was time). the second time i was on the eway, the car started riding kind of ruff and then it just shut off. I had to cost to the bottom of the exit ramp. I replaced the alternator. Just 2 days ago, someone jumped infront of me to where I had to hit my break, just hard enough from my purse to fall on the floor. When I slowed down to start at the light the car shut off. Thank goodness it started back up, but I really need to get this fixed. Not to mention the locks flicking back and forth sometimes! When I was cleaning the snow off my windows the locks started flickering and locked me out with the car running! How much did it cost to reprogram the computer and replace the throttle?
  • I did not reporgram the computer or replace the throttle. I found defects in the wiring harness in the door jamb. when you open your car door you will see what looks like a collapsable rubber hose. That houses a wire harness which feeds many wire circuits to your door components. When you cleaned snow off of your car some snow probably got down into your door jamb and shorted out the power door lock circuit and made them activate the door locks. If I were you I would open the door, pull back on the rubber to expose the factory wire harness, and see if there's any cuts on those wires. It's really easy and you can't break anything doing it. If a wire breaks while doing it then that means you just found an intermittant circuit. And it's broken wires like that, that are giving you intermittant problems with your power door locks and dome light being on. I had a few broken wires and a few cut wires ready to break. As far as the car shutting off when you break hard well that's probably a totally separate problem. Maybe you need a tune up with new plugs and fuel filter. At what RPM does your car idle at? Does it even hold a constant idle? You see, when you brake hard thers's a large pressure differential in your intale manifold from when your just driving down the road. Whatever's suppose to help your engine recover from that and help it idle may be where your problem is.
    I hope this helps, and I hope you find some broken wires in your door jamb because it's a very easy fix.
  • reeccreecc Posts: 2
    2002 EXPLORER XLS.
    I've been having the same problem and it has become worse over the years. It started off as the door ajar/dome light staying on but when the dealer fix my TRANSMISSION PROBLEM (1st & 3rd gears broke and fell into the trans), I believe they fixed the problem; which i think was a short in the passenger door. Recently, my car shut off on me 3 times! First i replaced the battery (it was time). the second time i was on the eway, the car started riding kind of ruff and then it just shut off. I had to cost to the bottom of the exit ramp. I replaced the alternator. Just 2 days ago, someone jumped infront of me to where I had to hit my break, just hard enough from my purse to fall on the floor. When I slowed down to start at the light the car shut off. Thank goodness it started back up, but I really need to get this fixed. Not to mention the locks flicking back and forth sometimes! When I was cleaning the snow off my windows the locks started flickering and locked me out with the car running! How much did it cost to reprogram the computer and replace the throttle?
  • leroyb1leroyb1 Posts: 1
    i need to replace the switch,i have to hold the light switch to keep them burning.never replced one before can you help?
  • jimmyd27jimmyd27 Posts: 1
    I have a 03 Ford Explorer XLT V6 FFV, and when I park my car and turn off every light switch in the vehicle the rear brake lights stay on. Yes I know brake lights are only in the rear but, I over explain things. If anyone has any Ideas on what I can do before letting the dealership anal probe through my wallet. I am all ears and eager to learn. I am going to try to change the daytime run lights relay first then check back here for the next couple of days. before heading back to the dealership. Please tell your ideas, comments, or just opinions. There is no bad suggestions if it leads to the right solution.......
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