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Ford Explorer Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • 7203fast7203fast Posts: 1
    You may need to replace your brake light switch . I had the same problem with my lights and the switch was sticking.
  • jbeamonjbeamon Posts: 2
    I was a mechanic for about 12 yrs. but haven't been in the biz for about 7 more. I have a '97 Explorer V6 where the alternator light comes on intermittently while driving. Now when I have the vehicle parked, I checked the voltage. It held steady in idle at 14.0V so I rev the engine up until the light came on and watched the voltage drop to 13V. The belt doesn't seem to be slipping. Are these late model fords using internal regulators? If so, will I need to replace the alternator?
  • jbeamonjbeamon Posts: 2
    Had the alternator tested, I am told that the alternator is fine. The light was intermittent and after the car warmed up, it went out then right before I had it tested, the light came on and stayed on but they said it tests fine. What gives? Could it be the diode in the alternator?
  • I have an electrical/mechanical clicking noise that is coming from the left rear inside (just inside tailgate on driver's side, under trim panel, down close to floor). It usually happens when I first start the vehicle when it hasn't been driven in say 24 hours. It will stop clicking on its own eventually. Sounds sort of like a relay, clicking about once per second and is relatively noisy. The vehicle has factory rear air and heat vents. I can turn up the fan speed on the rear air ducts then turn it back down and that seems to cause it to stop clicking sooner than it would if I do nothing. I definitely think it is part of the electrical circuit for the rear air conditioning/heat fan. Any ideas on what may be causing this? Could this be a problem in the electrical circuit somewhere else other than where the clicking is coming from? I have not figured out how to get behind the plastic trim panel to eyeball what is making the sound yet.
  • tjinpatjinpa Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 98 Mountaineer. I got the door boot pulled back and found 3 broken wires. How can i take this apart so i can repain the wires?

    T J
  • brews62brews62 Posts: 1
    I have just bought a 93 explorer. I have had a problem with no start. It is equiped with a remote start and has on 2 occations go to turn the key and nothing there. only getting 4.65 V at the remote start. Anyone with this problem or fix for this???
  • All I did was pull the door boot to the side, then strip the wires that were broken then crimp on but splices. You will need a pair of wire strippers and a pair of crimpers. Do not try and use a pair of striper/crimper combo set. you won't be able to get the crimper portion of the tool into the door jamb. I think I used the blue automotive but splices. Then that's it. Crimp on the splices and your good to go.

    Just a tip. It's a pain to do everything with one hand because your other hand is holding the boot out of the way, soo you may want to have someone leaning over your shoulder doing that for you as you crimp the splices onto the wires.
  • rstorey1rstorey1 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 explorer and can't get the power locks to work. They unlock but won't lock and the fob won't work iether. The rear lock works properly but door locks won't
  • kmeiner03kmeiner03 Posts: 9
    Do you use the FOB to unlock the car or the key?

    Just for the hell of it open the drivers door and the passenger door and pull back on the rubber boot the covers the wiring harness. See if there's any broken wires in the harness. I talked to alot of people with wiring problems in the door jamb and there's usually a few broken wires. It seems to be a common problem with the Ford Explorer.
  • brokefordbrokeford Posts: 1
    I have a 95 explorer. my daytime running lights stayed on and would drain the battery dead. it turned out to be the daytime running light module, located under the bumper drivers side, looks like a small amplifier, one electrical plug. the reason the lights stay on is because this module has a direct link to the battery, so if the "solenoid" sticks your lights don't turn off. the thing costs too much so i just removed mine and now the problem is fixed, however you will lose your high beams indication and emergency brake indication, and of course no daytime running lights. headlights and brights will still work. hope that helps.
  • I took my rig into the car wash tonight and when we came out to leave i turned my headlights on and the display light on my radio goes off and the radio still works just fine.. but when i turned off my headlight the display light for my clock popped back on like normal. What could be causing this issue.
    Thanks for any help at all.....
  • I have a 2002 Explorer and I'm changing the battery terminal. I purchased a universal. It does not fit because of the plastic tray that's over the battery post. Can I take that off (it's also on the positive side as well) to make it fit....and why would the ground wire spark when I'm trying to hook things back up? I see a set of ground wires..there are 2--i had to cut the plastic off to expose more wire...do they still need to be separated? Also, when I touch the ground wire to the new terminal, the lights flash and I hear a click as well as some sparks. I don't have anyone with mechanical knowledge available in the neighborhood at the moment and I really need to get this done...I have no other transportation...Thanks!
  • dallasmdallasm Posts: 2
    I got a real electrical challenge for you "experts" out there. Ready?
    First thing to go out was my side mirrors. Then I started having problems with the car starting which was thought to be the fuel pump but now turns out to be electrical. Every now and then i have to pop the hood and wiggle the fuse box to get the fuel pump to kick in. Now my windows dont work and that a/c has cut out. Tomorrow they might work but today they dont. Periodically they work. Its like the car has a mind of its own and windows and a/c will work only when it wants too. Anyone out there deal with this problem? I sure would appreciate some advice on this because driving around tucson , arizona with the windows up and NO A/C is gonna kill me.

    thanks
  • kmeiner03kmeiner03 Posts: 9
    I never claim to be an expert. just a guy that loves to fix things. Anyways, if I were you I would find the cpu and pull every plug off and check each pin for corrosion. Since you seem to have random problems scattered in different areas I would start there.
  • dallasmdallasm Posts: 2
    Where is the cpu?
  • fishinjimfishinjim Posts: 4
    I have a 2005 Explorer V8 Limited.
    Yesterday, driving it, AC and stereo playing. We turned on the headlights and the AC stopped blowing, the console lights dimmed, and the radio stopped playing. Turning the headlights off and everything started back working.

    Today, I had the battery tested and it tested OK. Placing the battery back in the car and now everything works again.

    Any ideas?

    Jim
  • kmeiner03kmeiner03 Posts: 9
    did you have your altenator tested? I've had simmilar problems in the past and it ended up being the alternator. and during the problems I never got the battery light on the dash.

    -kevin
  • fishinjimfishinjim Posts: 4
    I have not had the alternator tested. I ran the system self check from the dash and it passed the Charging System test but I will have it checked as well.

    Jim
  • fishinjimfishinjim Posts: 4
    ok, I had autozone test the alternator and it tested ok.
    another incident today - my wife was driving the kids down the expressway and the open door dingdingding sound happened.
    It's off to the dealer tomorrow morning but it's gonna be very hard to diagnose.
  • fishinjimfishinjim Posts: 4
    I have a 2005 Ford Explorer Limited and although I wasn't in a carwash, I had the exact problem with my headlights and display console.

    I don't have a resolution yet but I did unplug my battery for a good 20 or so minutes (to have it tested) and when I plugged it back in, everything went back to normal.

    Jim
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