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Ford Explorer Electrical Problems



  • after unsoldering wire harnesses for 2 days and tracing wires i found out that there was a short in the harness to the transmission and a bad wire inside the trans. new transmission good to go.
  • I have a 2006 Exporer, automatic ac/heat controls. Today when I started the truck the fan went on and blew on high, even though the car was still cold. Pushing the 'off' or the 'auto' button does nothing, the fan continues to blow cold air full force even though the temp setting is at 70. I tried raising and lowering the temp setpoint but that did nothing. Is there a sensor or switch or something that needs to be replaced / reset ?
  • I have a 2002 ford explorer and when I hit any bumps the door locks go off and on and the interior light flashes....I just replaced the transmission in this vehicle, I can not afford much else. Please help.
  • lreuterlreuter Posts: 1
    Okay, not possessed, but it's acting on its own... The dealer thought it might be a ground fault in the driver's door harness, then said they'd figure out exactly where for a bushel of money.

    We live with it, but has anybody seen some/all of these symptoms and offer a guess as to where to look for home repair?

    * Press any button on the door entry code panel and the anti-theft/panic goes off.
    * Driver door lock button works until you pull the key out then inop.
    * Rear window defrost activates dome light and 'door ajar' fault message for (and defrosts).
    * Radio plays until you remove key (used to play until door open).
    * Cabin heat temperature controls don't seem responsive.

    and maybe not related:

    Since our last visit to a different dealer the transmission doesn't always engage in Drive. After a hard stop it also won't engage, or drops into gear suddenly with a jack rabbit start. Sometimes sitting at a light it 'thumps' the car. I thought someone had lightly rear-ended me, but nobody was behind.
  • blowing the 50 amp fuse for the ignition switch/starter relay upon eevry turn of the key, i replaced the battery and the starter with new ones. i'm still blowing that same fuse! what else should i look at???
  • should i check out the wire harness for a short that may cause the 50 amp fuse to blow upon evry attempt to start? installed new starter ,battery and fuse.
  • leopold1leopold1 Posts: 4
    Yes Mike you will need to check out the harness, because you do have a short. More than likely you either have a bare wire touching the frame, or you have broken wires in the harness somewhere touching each other. This can be done either with an ohm meter, or the old fashioned, and sometimes the best way, of simply inspecting each wire for damage. Remember if you are using an ohm meter that you must isolate the system and wires you are checking, or you can get false readings.
    Best of luck
  • leopold1leopold1 Posts: 4
    Forgot something Mike. Sorry, but it is 0522 on a Sturday and my mind has not picked up speed yet. Make sure that you test any switches, or relays as you are going through the harness, because that may very well be where your problem lies.
  • budd00budd00 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 ford explorer that the batt. get drained very easily. I have to boost it every time i drive it, I've bought new alt. battery ten. pulley (incase the belt wasnt turning the alt. pulley properly) If I put a new battery in it it'll run til' that battery is drained then its back to square 1. I could boost it right now drive for a few miles and after that it might start 2 more times after that, then its back to needing a boost. Whats draing my battery?

    PS. Everything else works fine. :confuse:
  • leopold1leopold1 Posts: 4
    mikehutch, you need to start at square one. Anytime you have an electrical problem, don't make it worse by randomly changing parts. All that does is confuse you and cost money. Start out by checking your battery with a load tester. Do not go to your local parts store and get them to do it. Remember, a good, knowledgeable mechanic does not work at the parts counter. Buy yourself a load tester and use it yourself. That will tell you if your batt. is any good and whether or not you are getting a charge from the alt. You must have at least 13.8 volts coming into your batt. to keep it charged and not more than 14.8 to 15 volts. DO NOT PULL THE POS. CABLE OFF WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING OR THE NEXT THING YOU WILL BE BUYING IS A COMPUTER! If your tester tells you that the batt. is good but the alt. is not putting out, check to make sure that you have batt. volts going to the alt. You must have that to excite the fields. If you do, then it is time to find out where your voltage is going to, or where it is dammed up,ie... a switch, relay,diode, or simply a bad or damaged wire. GOO LUCK!
  • budd00budd00 Posts: 2
    I already pulled the the + off while it was running. So what do I do now?
  • bigwanebigwane Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    My rpm gauge drops out off and on and the engine idle so low it cuts off,
    once you get going for a while its ok but may cut off at anytime.
    Anyone knows if there is an idle adjustment to tweek the rpm?
  • cherisewcherisew Posts: 1
    My 2005 60k Explorer is acting very strange...the automatic windows do not work but the door locks do the stereo has power but wont keep the display on, play a cd ( it take and eject) and no radio, the gas gauge does not work but all the other ones this happened at once. Any clues before the dealership starts taking my :lemon: car apart? And yes the battery is fine.
  • chief632chief632 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 exploder. 1 day my windows, radio, moon roof, vanity lights and map lights quit working all at once. Checked fuses for all, and are ok. I tested the 30amp breaker under the hood its ok. Anyone have any idea what this problem could be?
  • I'm having a problem with the door ajar light staying on and all doors are shut. When this happens the lock switch goes crazy and my dome lite goes on and then sometime flickers. Also a beeping noise goes off. Please help me i can't take it anymore.
    Thanks Kevin
  • mntwindanmntwindan Posts: 4
    Hi Kevin, I am having the exact same problem. It did it all the way to work this morning on a 40 minute drive. I stopped and checked all the doors and the rear hatch. On the way home, problems. Let me ask you if you have a crack panel right below your rear window? Next to the Ford emblem? I am thinking maybe it is getting moisture in there at night and causing a short? I know it is a stretch but I am trying to figure out why it does it in the morning and not on the way home. I usually park outside....I am putting it in the garage tonight and will see if there are problems on the morning drive. I have a 2002 Ford Explorer, Eddie Bauer edition, 4X4.
  • mntwindanmntwindan Posts: 4
    I kept my SUV in the garage last night and had no problems. So, this is ongoing and it could be more than just moisture shorting it out. My wife has a 2002 Ford Explorer also and has had this same problem. She said she stopped the car in a safe place and shut if off and re-started it and had no further problems. My guess is the sensor probably just needs to be re-placed. We have both had the rear air fan problem....2x each...should be a recall item. Also have both had problems with the rear window body panel that cracked top to bottom (right underneath the window).
  • mntwindanmntwindan Posts: 4
    My SUV is still doing the same thing with the sensor and door lock and alarm going off for no reason...not a fun ride. I will call my mechanic and try to remember to post the results.....
  • mntwindanmntwindan Posts: 4
    I will keep posting for someone else searching for the answer...I went on some other websites and found some people had success with spraying silicone spray into the working parts of the door jamb (where it latches), will try that tonight as the chime was going off for my morning 40 minute commute....can't turn the music loud enough to drowned out that annoying sound. I will post results... :mad:
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