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Mercedes-Benz C230 Problems and Repairs



  • Did you check the fuse box?
  • Haven't checked that yet. Put a new battery in & that didn't work. Hoping that it is something simple.
  • lakepoplakepop Posts: 221
    Have a ABS light on a 98 C230. I'm guessing that it is probably a sensor but I am eliminating the easy stuff first.

    Brake fluid....full
    fuse.....................CANNOT FIND ??????

    Thats what I need for now....where is the fuse located? I've already looked under the hood in the fuse box....not there.

    Also need to know how many sensors.....1 per wheel or only the front ?

    How about on the differential ???

    I'll pull the wheels and get to the sensors soon. Plan on checking the connections and cleaning them up ......hopefully thats the problem.

    OK....any advice/inputs ?????
  • lakepoplakepop Posts: 221
    Code cleared..........DIY replaced Mass Air Sensor. A very simple <15 min job.

    Obviously saved a bunch of $$$$$ over the Mega Buck dealer.
  • nalaiqnalaiq Posts: 1
  • I have 2000 C230K.(116,000 miles) I will try to describe my problem as best I can. When in D, it sounds like I am driving a 5 speed and changed to 5th gear when I should have changed to 3rd gear. The RPM's are very low (at slower speeds) there is a deep rumbling, and the only way to eliminate it is to a) step on it a little, or b) drop to the lower gear (which doesn't always help much if I am driving 15-40 mph). Nobody seems to have seen this before, one mechanic said he could charge me $2000 but he didn't know if he could fix it?!? Any ideas? Thanks.
  • kufukufu Posts: 14
    The air mass meter is located on the rear of the air cleaner cover on the right hand side of the engine compartment. Unplug the electrical wiring from the sensor by turning the union nut anti-clockwise until it is felt to disengage and then separating the two havles on the connector. Slaken the hose clip at the engine side of the sensor, then pull off the inlet ducting. Release the spring clips at the air cleaner side of the sensor and remove the sensor. Recover the O-ring seal.
    You can get Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner on www.
    Product Number #883593 Price is 9.95 plus S&H
  • slj333slj333 Posts: 4
    I own a 2005 c230 sedan. The car is great but as the warranty gets closer to expiring, I would like some recommendations on a good and reasonable extended warranty option.
  • hdoolabhhdoolabh Posts: 3
    I woned a c240 2004 model and recently decided to change it for a c230 sport and the only reason i did this was due to the warrenty expiring.

    I went to my local dealer (little rock AR) and traded my 240 for the 230. the 230 only had 10K miles on it and was used as a loaner car for others having work done to their cars. I got full warrenty on the 230 and am very happy with it. One of the keys had a crack on it and the dealer replaced it without any hesitation.

    I would consider doing a trade out for a 07 model the dealer may have in order to keep your vehicle in warrenty.
  • jtyler84jtyler84 Posts: 1
    My wifes 1998 C230 turn signal, power windows, and door locks stopped functioning the other day. I checked the fuse box under the hood and in the trunk and didn't find any blown or loose fuses. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it which seemed to fix everything, but after a day, the passenger side windows operate intermittently and the switch signals are crossed (IE I push the front passenger side window switch down and the rear goes down, or the front goes down but wont come back up unless I press the rear passenger window up or down). Any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,411
    Could be a quirky relay but one would need a wiring/relay diagram to see if one relay box controls all these items. If it does, that would be a likely suspect; otherwise, such bizarre behavior suggests a fault in the wiring harness or perhaps at the fuse box wiring. These things can be tough to track down. But try to sniff out the relay issue and also make SURE your battery connections are clean and that your battery/alternator is operating at proper voltages. Any drop in voltages will cause your electric systems to go bananas.


  • Hello everyone, I have a 05 C-230 Kompressor and i would like to know where's the location of the transmission fluid tray and the stick to check the fluids. I recently change my oil and oil filter but i'm having trouble finding the transmission fluid tray and stick. If you guys have the knowledge and pics of the locations it will help me out a lot.

  • I have heard from all MB mechanics that an owner SHOULD NOT change their own transmission oil. It is hygroscopic and water will be absorbed... just like brake fluid Changing oil is one thing but transmission and brake fluid are dangerous to change!

    In fact real mechanical technicians use a suction device to remove all the transmission oil before changing. They are that careful to avoid entry of moisture.

    You shouldn't even consider adding even a little bit of brake fluid from a can that has been opened! I learned that on the first Porsche I owned back in 1965 :shades:
  • I have a 2005 Mercedes C230 Kompressor that has been perfect for the 4 years I had it. However, today the message came up "Taillight Lamp Left". So I proceeded to replace the bulb which had burned out. I took it to the dealer and he put the new bulb back in the board and I drove off. As i was leaving the message still appeared; "Taillight Lamp Left" along with "Taillight Left Lamp: Backup light on".

    We tried replacing the board that holds the bulbs and that wasn't it? The message still appears. Any thoughts?
  • check the harness under the middle console. I had the same problem. a loose wire was the cause. strange thing is I disconnected the battery and it happened again.
  • c230 kompressor failed inspection, seems the air flow sensor might be a problem. check engine light keeps coming on after the computer is cleared it works for a while then comes back on. I replace it from a shop on amazon $100 bucks the machanic is scratching his head... have no idea what to do. help
  • art30art30 Posts: 1
    2003, C230C coupe. 61,000miles. Battery error every morning for the last 2 weeks. I got new batt. Used a power mantiner that you plug into the lighter so I would not loose voltage while I removed the old batt and installed new. Everything went great. Didn't loose any radio settings, seats or anything else. The only Malfunction is the message "SRS system error go to workshop". The red SRS light is also on. Car drives fine. How can I reset the error and see if it comes back. I have turned the car on and off 4-5 times but message still shows. I do not want to pay MB $120 minimum for them to push a reset button.

    Let me know what you think.

    Txs Art
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,411
    I think you need to go to a dealer or repair shop and hook it up to the STAR system or some such. This only takes 2-5 minutes. They should do it for free as a courtesy.


  • We have a 2002 C230 with 120,000 miles. I have some electrical problems and not sure if they are related. The big one is we have no low beam, parking light or turn signal on the drivers side. The cable coming into the cluster has 4 functions,, including the high beam which works. I swapped all of the bulbs to the passenger side and they all work. I checked the fuse and it is good. I swapped it out with the passenger side and it is fine. I also checked the fuse box and there is power to the fuse. There is no power to the cluster. Am I missing a connector somewhere? Also the battery goes dead if the car is not driven everyday. We put in a new battery but didn't help. I don't know if this is related. Also have a bad noise through the radio so right now we pulled the fuse for the sound system. Any help here would be great.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,411
    Well congratulations on attempting a logical and diligent diagnosis, first off.

    Yeah you know this all does sound related and I'm here thinking....what component could cause all of this to happen?

    I came up with two ideas, one vague, one more concrete.

    Vague: A glitch in the wiring harness from the headlight to a connector or junction box further up on the firewall.

    Concrete: Your headlight switch itself or the connector that plugs into it.


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