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Mercedes-Benz C230 Problems and Repairs

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  • Hi All,

    Quick question whats the trick to tightening the 4 alternator mounting bolts, so the unit does not bind, does not seem to mount flush, same unit I took off just had it rebuilt
  • barrymbarrym Posts: 9
    When the AC is running in the manual mode with floor/dash air distribution, the air will initially discharge from all four dash board outlets but after a period of time (2-3 minutes) the air quantity from the center outlets diminishes (while the outlets nearest the doors continue to deliver ample air volume). Occasionally, air volume will return to the center outlets but will again diminish after a few minutes. Is this normal (I would have expected that in the manual mode, I would have total control of air distribution)?

    Tnx

    Barry
  • March 2010 my engine light went on, it was one of the worst days of my life, $5,300.00 for a Balance Shaft. They said they had to take the entire engine out of my Mercedes C230 that only had 74,000 miles on it.
    The service manager John and his boss said that this is very rare to have happened but I went straight to the internet and found out differently.

    Now, the work that Laguna Niguel Mercedes-Benz Dealership did, 8 months later and only 4200 miles since that repair, I need a new intake manifold and #2 exhaust Valve that is not seating. Another $2825.18 to fix this now!

    The Dealership said they never toughed any of those things while working on the engine however the invoice they gave me says differently!

    Add me to the Class Action Law Suit...please!!!
  • I understand your frustration, but our Membership Agreement does prohibit using the Forums to organize lawsuits. Also, if you've never been a part of one, you might think about whether it's even worth it. It'd likely be resolved somewhere around 3 years from now, and the award for individuals in the lawsuit would likely be that MB would pay for the fix or compensate you some piddly amount that wouldn't come close to compensating you. In most cases, you're better off trying to resolve it as an individual rather than as a "class."

    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • jm04jm04 Posts: 1
    Hey, me and my friend both have 2005 C230's. When he heard my car make the same noise you've described after putting it reverse, he said, "hey, I know what causing that noise, my car did the same, it cost me $400.00 for a new alternator and it fixed the problem." I haven't fixed mine yet. But I'll do it myself. Autozone has the part for $171.00. In actuality, its the Alternator pulley causing the problem, its all one unit. He said if you don't fix it soon, as he waited and it ended up causing transmission mount/ motor mount problems from the excessive vibration.
  • so my 1998 c230 benz keeps cranking but won't start like you said...mechanic said its not the alternator but he is still trying to find out what and i was just wondering if i can get your opinion....car was running great till all the sudden it felt like it was staling on me and died tried to start i only get the cranking?
  • Add me to the list of dissatisfied Mercedes owners. I too own a 2006 C230 and started having issues with it. Periodically the car would lose acceleration and RPMS would be high and the vehicle would jerk when I tried changing gears. Took it to a repair shop and received P0717/P0718 fault codes and something about the valve body. Mechanic claims he received instructions from Mercedes to do a software update on the car for $300 and that should take care of the issue. Well the car drove ok for about one month until my check engine light came on. One day later the car starts doing the same thing it was a month before. As I change gears from park, reverse or drive, the gear shift jerks and I am unable to accelerate past 20 mph no matter how much pressure I place on the gas. So I have the vehicle towed back to the mechanic and now he says that the valve body needs to be replaced. The fault codes should have told him that in the first place when I first took it in to him. Anywho, now it's costing me $1200 just for the valve body part, which I hope will fix the issue. Lord knows I can't afford anything else to go wrong with this bloody car. Wish I never bought this darn thing.
  • Howdy, I just completed a lien sale on a 1994 c230. Car is immaculate inside and out! Except the engine. A blown head gasket or more, plus needs water pump Would it be smart to get it fixed, and use it as my own or should I just find someone that wants to part it out approx 146,000 miles
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,700
    edited January 2011
    No such car. It's either a C220 or it's a later model C230 (1996 on up)

    But that's not really important---the car is definitely not worth repairing if it's a mid 90s C class sedan. I don't think parting it out is a good way to go, since that could take forever and there's not really a big demand for parts.

    I'd say the only market appeal is as a "fixer-upper" for someone who wants a hobby, is good with wrenches, or maybe who has a wrecked one with a good engine.

    If it were a C320 convertible, it might be worth saving.

    I'd put it on craigslist for $1500 and see what happens.
  • christ10mommiechrist10mommie Posts: 1
    edited March 2011
    Marsqum. I am with you. If there's a recall, I too would like to know about it and to get signed up! I just had my C230 Kompressor Sports Coupe in for regular service B maintenance (--at $700 as opposed to the usual $400, but my mechanice does WAY more than what you would typically get from a dealership in the run of the mill $400 service B.) My car is a 2003 with about 80k miles on it. To my horror, the day after service, my car wouldn't start. When I turned the key over, it made a low humming sound that I didn't understand at all. :confuse: I towed it back to the mechanic, in a controlled rage... of course :mad: and he was able to diagnose quickly that it is a timing chain issue. Repair will run $3 - 4k, I'm told. :cry: This is where I thank God for giving me the wisdom to purchase and to keep my GE extended warranty :) even through a long season of unemployment when I really could have used the money that would have been reimbursed to me through a cancellation of the warranty. The warranty will cover the repairs, even though the mechanic will have to tear the whole engine apart (apparently) to qualify the event as a covered claim. (Kind of like going from Washington state to California by way of England, if you know what I mean. :D) 'But whatever it takes! - I could not have afforded this repair if it were not for the warranty. Still, if there is a recall related to the timing chain, I am interested in jumping on that bandwagon for sure. Please keep me posted.
  • I own 2005 C230 kompressor 2dr 1.6 manual transmission. Recently I've changed batteries in my key remote unit. Shortly after while driving dash cluster/ gauges stopped working. Car was running fine but I did not want to continue driving like that so I parked on the shoulder. When I tried to re-start the car again I was not able to do it. Car just did not recognize a key. I wasn't able to lock or unlock doors, even though light on remote was still working/. Luckily my spare key worked right away and did not have any problems after. When I took it to dealership (MB San Diego) they told me:
    Old key can't be reset and I would need a new key $370 + $900 for some kind of key reader that is placed on steering column!
    When asked why replacing $900 part that works fine with spare key. Their answer was a bit confusing. Supposedly that device (chip) is working but they predict it might die. However, no one knows when or what may cause it to die, it could die in few days or 10 years. And they assume it could happen when programming that $370 new key. In that case I would have to get 2 new keys and that part.!!!
    Since when do you have to be responsible for mechanics mistakes.?

    Few months ago I had Engine light on and I was told that I need to replace Cam Shafts Solenoids O2 sensors and Main Computer. When asked, why computer, they've tried hard to explain that Computer is BRAIN OF ENGINE when spotting drop of oil in connector casing it needs to be replaced. Total cost would be ~$5,600.00. Even though computer was performing well, car was running fine besides Cam Shaft small leek and o2 sensors which triggered ENGINE LIGHT. I've politely thank them for their concerns and took my car back. I got myself $4.99 box of cue tips and cleaned computer slot connections thoroughly and ignored engine light.

    Until today, when dealing with this key issue I found out that MB has RECALL on Camshaft Solenoids and Chain Belt.( just saved ~$5000) !!!

    If anyone has same problem with a key please let me know.
  • ehon0101ehon0101 Posts: 2
    I also have this car with the kompresser. One day my alternator light came on then flipped off the next day. And every since this day my car makes a noise when it turns over from starting it. It also makes a noise when I put my car in gear while using the ac. I was told motor mount bracket also, and now this has been repaired the noises have not stop. Can you explain alittle more your problems you had with this issue because my car is still not fixed. Thanks I need anyones help with this issue...............
  • ehon0101ehon0101 Posts: 2
    One day my alternator light came on then flipped off the next day. And every since this day my car makes a noise when it turns over from starting it. It also makes a noise when I put my car in gear while using the ac. I was told motor mount bracket also, and now this has been repaired the noises have not stop. Has anyone had problems with their car doing this also because I am at my wits end..... Thanks.
  • I think the alternator issue and the vibration issues are totally different. As for the vibration, have you had the mounts around the transmission checked? If you are hearing and feeling the vibrations when you put it in gear, it may be coming from this area. Also check your exhaust system mounts.
    Have you taken your car in to have the charging system checked to make sure the alternator is charging. There may be a ground issue or something related to the alternator to give you the intermittent "check engine" light. I would also look at the tension of the serpentine belt if it's giving you this noise when you start the car.
  • I took a risk, and just purchased the above mentioned car, knowing it has acceleration problems. It has a rebuilt transmission, as of 20K miles When pressing on the gas, it bogs out, when you let off the gas and press again, it comes back and continues to accelerate. The seller tells me he thinks its the throttle actuator.... Any other thoughts?
  • Not really sure about the throttle actuator, but you also may want to check your Mass Air Flow Sensor. If thats what it is, you can find them on Ebay for around $140.00 take 5 mins. to put in. If you get it from a Mercedes dealer they will charge you around $575.00 just for the part.
  • thanks for that. after hours of searching, i get the feeling this may be the problem. i have seen the replacement sensor for as little as $99. looks like i could DIY. thanks for the info. will post update.
  • kufukufu Posts: 14
    Before you buy replacement sensor try to clean present one. Visit: www.PerformanceProducts.com or call 1-800-243-1220 and get Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner for around $ 13,00 plus S&H.
  • 4sport4sport Posts: 2
    What did you decide to do with your tranny slip issue (limp home mode)?
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