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Infiniti Q45 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mild1mild1 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the tips! It definately eases my mind somewhat. When you said 111K was not high mileage, you were refering to MILES, right? Cuz 111K kilometres would definately be on the low side. I'll see if I can find any service records for the car, I plan to talk with the dealership guy tomorrow; I seriously doubt there will be any.

    I'm just mainly concerned with a car that may need a buncha new suspension bits (struts, cvs, bushings) with this kind of mileage, but I'm surely going to send the car to my mechanic to check it out before I buy.

    Thanks again! Much appreciated. I'll let you know how it goes.

    JON
  • waliswalis Posts: 35
    Firstly, thanks for taking time to help Q45 owners with their problems...you are a true gem.
    Question #1: My antilock light will not go off on my 1992 Q45. Also, the brake pads worn message on the message board won't go away. I changed all pads (front & rear). The sensor is connected on the rear passenger brake and still no solution. How can I solve this problem?

    Question #2: My car rides well except for a vibrating sound that seems like maybe one of my tires is bad. I've changed all four tires about three different times trying to solve the problem but to no success. I just changed the passenger side wheelbearing and still didn't solve the problem. Could it be another bearing or something else? Please help!
  • elwessoelwesso Posts: 42
    Who cares miles vs KMs.... WHen cars last 300,000 miles 111k is just a scratch on the surface. not saying yours will last that long but 250k should be no problem.... I know probably 10-15 people with Q45s of any year over 250,000 miles, and 2-3 over 320k miles...

    Main thing thats gonna be worn out is the shocks... as well as tension rod bushings.... Just factor in $2000 in new parts and labor and you wont be disappointed... I can assure you, youll be amazed by how the car will be after a suspension rehab, especially if its all original stuff.

    People really like to cheap out on brakes, and 10 feet can make or break you in terms of a panic stop....

    Just so you know, its AGE that kills stuff not so much mileage (especially with suspension components)...

    The drivetrain is going to be solid assuming the oil has been changed regularly... Just let me know as many details as you can.
  • elwessoelwesso Posts: 42
    For the ABS light, theres a few things it could be... Best thing to do is put it in diagnostic mode and see what it thinks is wrong.... COuld be as simple as the relay or something else...

    For the brake pads worn, i always take the sensor wires and short them together. I put an aftermarket brake kit on my Q (no sensors) and I did this to make the things go away. Just short it, you should know when its time to replace the brakes anyway without the idiot light.

    Could you describe where the sound is coming from(front/rear left/right)... Is it a high frequency or low frequency vibration.... theres a few things it could possibly be... but id rather have mroe details before going for that.
  • waliswalis Posts: 35
    It's definitely from the front. It's more from the passenger front. It's a low frequency vibration very similar to a bad tire. It's not my tire becuase i 've tried three different brands and it still didn't fix the problem.
  • elwessoelwesso Posts: 42
    lift up that corner (its best if the other corners are on the ground for stability) and pull and push on the wheel and see if theres any play.... im almost thinking about a bad tie rod end... or something.... Generally tire related vibrations come and go at different speeds...
  • waliswalis Posts: 35
    please help by telling me what to look for if I can lift and take the wheel off the car. Is a bad tie rod easily detectable? How do I check for it? What steps do I need to take in inspecting it? Thanks!
  • elwessoelwesso Posts: 42
    you dont necessarily need to take the wheel off the car, just get it up in the air (off the ground) and shake it... you should feel NO play at all... Make sure the steering wheel is locked as well...

    Most auto shops would be abel to tell you if you have bad tie rods.
  • waliswalis Posts: 35
    Okay...I did exactly as instructed and found no play whatsoever on both front wheels. They were as stern as they could be. Is there any other thing you can think of? The vibration is resembles a sound from a bad, unbalanced tire. It's from the front. I also noticed that the front passenger wheel doesn't spin as freely as the driver side. PLEASE HELP! I did have the rack & pinion changed at some point. I'm not sure if the vibration started right after that or much later. Please advise!
  • elwessoelwesso Posts: 42
    Hmm... This could be something maybe like a stuck caliper and your rotor is really warped.... Sounds pretty goofy... It could also be a REALLY bad wheel bearing, but normally bad bearings make a lot of noise... They could cause a vibration but ive never really heard of that, but i reckon most wouldnt let them get that bad.
  • Yes, it could be a stuck caliper. I had this happen on my '95 Q45a. The caliper on the right front wheel occasionally froze and the heat created caused the vibration. Next time it happens get out and feel the hub of the wheel. If its hot, that's your problem. BTW, stop the car before you get out to feel the wheel! :D
  • I recently bought a 99 q45t with 162K miles(alot of miles) but I feel comfortable in my purchase because the car has had only 2 previous owners. The vehicle was used a company car for 5 years with all maintenance and required tuning (driven about 25,000 miles per year). The second owner has the car for about 20,000 miles before it was repossessed. For about 5 monthes the has sat on a lot undriven and unmoved. I am currently experiencing no problems but would like to know what type of maintenance you would recommend for a car with this type of mileage (recently had fluids and air filter changed). I also wanted to find out the typical problems owners experience for 99 q45t. I have tried to research as much as possible,but have not found any information.

    thanks
  • 162k is a lot of miles for the year, but its not a lot of miles for the car itself!!!!! If all your fluids are changed (including brake fluid and diff fluid) are changed and fresh, then just do the plugs and that should be OK... maybe a fuel filter too...

    Theres a lot of reading available on the other website's ive posted before.
  • waliswalis Posts: 35
    Finally! I solved the vibrating issue with my Q. It turned out to be the drive shaft's center bearing (the center of the propeller underneath the car). The dealer priced the shaft at $1000 sice it can't be dismantled into pieces. They only sell it as a whole. I decided to try a local salvage company and got a nice one for about $200. It was installed three days ago and BINGO the vibration is gone. Thanks everyone for your input and suggestions. I hope someone can benefit from my crazy ordeal.
  • waliswalis Posts: 35
    Hello elwesso: how does one know if the spark plugs coils are bad? I removed one but I can't tell if it's bad or not. Please help!
  • Ahh yes the center bearing, i had thought that what it could possibly be... should have mentioned something about it, i could have hooked you up with a brand new one for about teh same price... with the updated design....

    hard to diagnose vibrations over the internet.
  • You can do a resistance test on them. if you have a service manual, just get out your volt-ohm meter and test it... however on most Q the coils dont fail often. On 90-96 ive heard of 1 confirmed case where one coil went bad, and on 97-01 just a few, not nearly as common as dealers what you to think.

    what symptoms are you experiencing. i know you have a 92 and im guessing you took it to a "mechanic" because it doesnt idle smooth. Coilpacks are the "generic" answer for those who dont know diddly about the car. Your probably looking at injector issues.

    Give this article to your mechanic or whoever is working on the car. http://www.q45.org/ohminjectors.html
  • Good afternoon! A good friend of ours sold us a 95 q45 here a while back that need some work done. Very minor work in my book but I ran into a problem pretty quickly. The car needs brakes badly but I'm unable to get the wheels off. The car has been sitting for years so I thought maybe the wheels were rusted on. After some wd40 and a lot of tugging and pulling, they still won't come off. Is there some special tool I need to get them off? The lugnuts were rusted on pretty good also but I managed to get them off with no problem. I was amazed that this car even ran and it runs like a champ, even after sitting for as long as it did. It hadn't run in litterally 2 or 3 years. I jumped it and it fired right off and ran incredibly smooth. So all I need for it is brakes and we have a car that only cost us 50.00. The guy we bought it from was going to give it to us to get it out of his driveway but my wife didn't feel good about just taking it so he said 50 bucks. Sold! Anyway if I could get these wheels off, we'd have a very nice running car. Thanks for any help you can give me in this I REALLY appreciate it.

    Tony
  • Wow ive never heard of that happening. Does not bring comforting feelings to heart!!! Pretty obvious to think that the car has been seriously neglected, then again if its been sitting outside for 2-3 years anything is possible...

    The only thing I could think of is to get a puller of some sort and put it around the spokes of the wheel... I assume you have the regular 95 Q "20 spoke" wheels, right??? Not the ones called "piepans" which look, exactly like an inverted pie pan... I might also try giving a mighy wack with a hammer to the back of the wheel.. You dont want to keep pounding on it but sometimes just that sudden blow will take care of it.

    Otherwise, you could try unbolting the caliper/bracket from the hub (shoudl be able to do it from behind, tricky but it should be able to be accomplished) and just push the whole thing off the studs... However, i think youll find the rotor will be even harder to get off. There are threaded holes on the rotor that you can insert a bolt into to tpush the rotors off.... :)
  • waliswalis Posts: 35
    thank you so much elwesso! I'd do the injector resistance test. Is there any diagram/instruction on how to change injectors on Qs and how difficult is it?? Thanks a lot!
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