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1996 - 2001 First Generation Honda CR-Vs

2

Comments

  • Go for it...100k is still good and will run like new once you tune up the car (new spark plug wire, spark plug, rotor and cover) and . Just make sure the timing belt is new-including the water pump then do the other thing one by one if you can do it yourself like transmission oil, gear oil and coolant.
  • it's sad you have this kind of problem... did you ever tow your vehicle with your ignition set to off. I 'm just curious because I remember some CRV owner with this towing problem that CRV can only be tow when the ignition is set to on of it will break the transmission. I think there is a recall about this.
  • Hi all,
    Looking at a few CR-Vs to buy, about year 1999/2000. Hope this not a stupid question but what features are associated with each of the CR-V codes.
    etc:
    RSVi
    Si
    GLi
    ...

    If it makes a difference it will be a Ireland/UK version.

    Any info appreciated.
    Thanks
    A
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Hi all,
    Looking at a few CR-Vs to buy, about year 1999/2000. Hope this not a stupid question but what features are associated with each of the CR-V codes.
    etc:
    RSVi
    Si
    GLi
    ...

    If it makes a difference it will be a Ireland/UK version.

    Any info appreciated.
    Thanks
    A


    It make a lot of difference. In the US we get LX - lowest trim level. EX - middle trim level and SE/EX-L highest trim level. They all come with the same engine, and choice of tranny or AWD (LX). In 1999-2000 only LX was sold as 2WD, and was only avaialble as auto, while 5 spd manual was available on LX and EX AWD, and SE came with auto only.

    Si is usually reserved for sports models (Sport Injected), the rest... You will need to get a hold of a brochure from 1999-2001 to get full details on what were the differences between trims.
  • Thanks for the info blueiedgod.

    Anyone know where I can find brochures for old European CR-Vs? Thought I found some the other day but don't understand Japanese!

    Cheers
    A
  • stevecarstevecar Posts: 148
    We found old owner's manuals for a ten year old accord on e-bay. worth a try.
  • caseyc2caseyc2 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Honda CR-V LX 2WD... I have 251,423 miles on it... Only maintenance I've ever done to it is every 100,000 miles have the timing belt and spark plugs changed... never changed the transmission fluid... Still runs great!
  • suebugsuebug Posts: 3
    Hi Folks,
    My car, a 1999 CRV, was either tampered with or slipped out of park INTO drive a few days ago while idling in my driveway. It then crashed through the gates to the backyard and made impact with the garage, doing considerable damage to the garage, but not to the car. There are scrapes on the bumper but not one dent! The only other way we can think of, that this may have happened, is that perhaps the car was ACTUALLY stuck between neutral and drive but then popped into drive.

    :confuse:

    Has this happened to ANYONE else? Thanks for your help!
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Hi Folks,
    My car, a 1999 CRV, was either tampered with or slipped out of park INTO drive a few days ago while idling in my driveway. It then crashed through the gates to the backyard and made impact with the garage, doing considerable damage to the garage, but not to the car. There are scrapes on the bumper but not one dent! The only other way we can think of, that this may have happened, is that perhaps the car was ACTUALLY stuck between neutral and drive but then popped into drive.



    Has this happened to ANYONE else? Thanks for your help!


    Did you engage the parking brake?
  • suebugsuebug Posts: 3
    NO AND it was on a slight incline.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    NO AND it was on a slight incline.

    If I were the police officer at the scene, I would have issued tickets for failure to secure the vehicle.

    Having automatic transmission does not mean you don't need to apply parking brake. Plus, having the parking brake on takes the stress off the tranny, prolonging its life.
  • arigarig Posts: 4
    i had a 1998 cr-v with 136 000km amd had a blockage in transmision but best car in world and recomened to any 1 and they never die!
  • kregiskregis Posts: 1
    i also own a crv which now has 172,000 miles and runs harder than ever. the only thing that ever gave me problems (other than replacing the belts and water pump) was the thermostat. i plan to do some motor upgrades to put me closer to the 200hp range
  • suebugsuebug Posts: 3
    I'll take note of the parking break comment in so much as it takes the stress off the transmission. Thanks! The ticket... ARE you a police officer? We didn't actually call the police, just the home owners. Kind of difficult to prove someone tampered with our car, in our driveway, crashing into our garage.

    SO... I guess the answer to my question is NO... no one has ever had gear slippage issues and YES it was probably the group of smart-ss kids across the street who shifted the car into drive.

    Thanks.
  • I have a 2001 Honda CRV with about 128k miles. I have recently noticed two problems that may or may not be related.

    The air conditioner from time to time but rarely will not turn on. It will not blow air, hot or cold. Usually after turning it off and waiting about 5 minutes it will come on and work fine.

    Possibly related, when the air conditioner is on, the car idles pretty hard sputtering at times as if it might stop. It immediately returns to the correct idle if the air conditioner is turned off.

    I am not sure if this is related to the compressor problems others have spoken about but any input would be greatly appreciated.
  • My 1999 Honda CRV stalls intermittently. I can limp along for awhile by playing with the gas and brake then it is fine. I had the fuel filter replaced but it didn't solve the problem. Any ideas what could be wrong? Thanks!
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    My 1999 Honda CRV stalls intermittently. I can limp along for awhile by playing with the gas and brake then it is fine. I had the fuel filter replaced but it didn't solve the problem. Any ideas what could be wrong? Thanks!

    Information about mileage should help. But, the valves on that engine need to be adjusted every 30,000 miles. If they have not been adjusted, they get tighter and push the valve seats into the soft aluminum head and the valves start to burn. Once the valves are burnt, you get stalling issues. The cost to replace the head on this engine is about $3000 from Honda.

    But, you may be in luck. If you have the Owner's manual and is says that valves don't need to be adjusted until 105,000 miles and you are under that mileage, you may have a leg to stand on to have Honda to foot the bill.

    1) Check the owner's manual for valve adjustment intervlas.
    2) If it says 105,000 miles or 90,000 miles and you are under that mileage. Take it to the dealer.
    3) Have the dealer do diagnosis, usually $80.
    4) When they tell you that the valves are burnt and you need a new head, call Honda corporate (the number is in the manual)
    5) They will open a case, and depending on how nice you are and how many Hondas you have owned in the past, they may cover it 100% or have you pay for labor.

    Good luck.

    P.S. Register with Honda Owner's link (on Hondas main website), enter you VIN number to see if the ignition swtich recall has been done.
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    Clean the throttle body.
  • my 1998 CR-V (mileage 85,000 miles) vibrates continuously when I stopped at traffic light. It vibrates even more in "P" than in "D". Can anyone help me with this problem???
  • dtstofdtstof Posts: 61
    Perhaps you've got a bad engine mount.
  • You are not the only person experiencing transmission problems. The original transmission lasted 52,000 miles (replaced under warranty) the second lasted 68,000 miles and I had to eat the third one at a cost of $1600.00, rebuilt. I have a 2001 model but it is the same transmission.
  • have an 01 with 74k - you would think it is a brand new car.
    these are 200 to 300k cars. IF MAINTAINED CORRECTLY.
    its not a question of the milage but was it taken care of?
    if so 123k is nothing to a honda - an american car NEVER- but a honda, no problem.
    change the timing belt get new belts, hoses, fulids ect - should be OK - again "IF IT WAS MAINTAINED"
    steveg
  • My fiancee has a 1999 CR-V that stalls and will not idle when put into gear. It starts and idles just fine at first but after the stall it will not start unless you really hold the gas down hard. I changed the fuel filter and the air filter but that didn't help. Car recently overheated due to a coolent leak. (no coolant in the oil) Engine light is also on all the time. I could not find any vacuum leaks. Car will run in gear as long as engine is revved with foot on the brake but as soon as you let off the gas it dies.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    My fiancee has a 1999 CR-V that stalls and will not idle when put into gear. It starts and idles just fine at first but after the stall it will not start unless you really hold the gas down hard. I changed the fuel filter and the air filter but that didn't help. Car recently overheated due to a coolent leak. (no coolant in the oil) Engine light is also on all the time. I could not find any vacuum leaks. Car will run in gear as long as engine is revved with foot on the brake but as soon as you let off the gas it dies.

    So, the CEL is on and the car is trying to tell you something, but instead of listenning to it, you post on the internet?

    Check the CEL and see what it says.

    My question would be when were the valves adjusted last time? And chances are the code is going to say "misfire on one or all cylinders."

    But, read the codes first, before you do anything else. The car is trying to tell you what is wrong.
  • mjb56mjb56 Posts: 170
    I just replace the struts on my 2000 SE. The ride is back to new and the handling is great. However, the new 'bounciness" seems to have jostled some other body parts loose and there's a lot of knocking noise coming from all 4 quarters. I'm wondering if it's just the struts making noise of if it's something loose inside. Any suggestions?
  • Just bought a 2001 SE with 83K miles. I parked it outside. Knowing it will rain, I made sure sunroof and windows were closed properly. It rained hard last Saturday. I noticed that the front passenger side's floor was wet. No roof leaks were detected. I brought it back to the used car dealer. He quickly assesed that all he needs to do is replace the rubber seal above the door where the glass ends. He says that it appears worn. It appears more than that. Since he is a non-Honda dealer, I feel he may not be aware of the car's history. Do you have a suggestion as to what the problem is and how to solve it? I want to compel the dealer to take it to a Honda specialist. Thanks for your help.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Just bought a 2001 SE with 83K miles. I parked it outside. Knowing it will rain, I made sure sunroof and windows were closed properly. It rained hard last Saturday. I noticed that the front passenger side's floor was wet. No roof leaks were detected. I brought it back to the used car dealer. He quickly assesed that all he needs to do is replace the rubber seal above the door where the glass ends. He says that it appears worn. It appears more than that. Since he is a non-Honda dealer, I feel he may not be aware of the car's history. Do you have a suggestion as to what the problem is and how to solve it? I want to compel the dealer to take it to a Honda specialist. Thanks for your help.

    The 2001 SE did not come with a sunroof from the factory. So, you have an aftermarket sunroof.

    Look at the windshield and see if it has Honda logo. In a rare case, even if it has a Honda logo, it may have been replaced.

    Also, if you are using the window defogger (the one that blows on the windshield), it utilizes A/C. A/C takes the moisture out of the air, and condeses it. It should dribble down the tube form the A/C module, which is behind the glove box on the passenger side. A clogged drain tube will result in water leaking onto the passenger side floor.

    I think there was a recall of sorts for the firewall well or something that allowed water in. Register your vehicle at www.honda.com Owner's Link and see what was recalled and if recall was performed.
  • The used car salesman brought the car to a Honda dealer as I suggested. Honda denies that there was a Technical Service Bulletin for the water leak. I agree w/ you that there may have been one. Dealers will try to weasel out of anything. Anyway, they suggested looking at the windshield. It turns out there was a small crack at the edge covered by the rubber and right above the glove compartment. (How did Honda dealer guess?) My salesman had it replaced and said that they did a water test on it and showed no leaks. It remains to be seen. There is a new storm coming in tomorrow night which should put the repair to the test. Will keep post.
    Thanks.

    P.S. Just curious you did mention that the "windshield. . .may have been replaced". Sorry I still did not get it.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    P.S. Just curious you did mention that the "windshield. . .may have been replaced". Sorry I still did not get it.

    If the previous owner had replaced the windshield after it cracked, the installer may not have installed it correctly, which will cause a leak you described.

    Windshileds are replaceable parts, just like everything else on a car.
  • mjb56mjb56 Posts: 170
    Finally replaced the rear sway bar links and that cut out all the noises, groans and clunks. Handles better too. At the same time the power steering pump went out. In all, I've spent about $2K in the past two years on this car but it finally seems to be up to par. 145K mi. Engine and tranny strong and tight. Wife loves the car so we'll probably be keeping it for awhile. Honda parts are sure expensive, though. The last item to fix will be the driver side power window which is painfully slow in closing, but that will have to wait. Quoted price to fix was $240. Not worth it just yet.
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