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Suzuki Wagon Electrical Problems

PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,854
Having an electrical problem with your Suzuki wagon? This is the place to work it out.

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  • I have an Aerio 2003, which is great. The dashboard lights are now blinking or flickering. The car is running and starting fine. Is this a known electrical issue or do need to change a fuse? I switched to a new battery in the hope this would stop.

    Thank you for your help. :)
  • The problem with the vanishing Time/temp display is another common Suzuki defect. Make a lot of noise with Suzuki ..... who knows ....you may get a replacement for free.
  • jairo2jairo2 Posts: 1
    temp. and clock light go off when it turn head lights on.
    Change antifreeze engine light come on.
    I have 73,000 miles, and I drive on highway between 70 to 80 MPH. no major problems. :P
  • Hello, I was wondering if you ever got the clock light fixed, it just happened to me too and I dont know how to fix it or what is wrong!
    THANKS! :(
  • carthellcarthell Posts: 124
    I had the problem. Rather than fiddling with the LED or other electrical components of the clock/temp display (I don't think any dealer has the equipment to fix electronics), my dealer replaced the unit. Hasn't given me any trouble since. Of course, my unit failed during the warranty period.

    -d
  • mine works, but when i turn on the headlights (not the running lights that come on automatically) the time / temp display back light cuts out. This seemed to happen after i jumped my buddies car....other than that my electrical system works fine
  • Hello,
    I bought a new [2007]Suzuki wagon last spring and noticed it pulling to the left the first time I drove it on the highway.
    I'd also started noticing that the warning lights on the dash for brakes and battery would come on sometimes. Not all the time, just come on for a while and then go off.
    I mentioned it to the guys in the service department when I took it in for alignment and after they worked on it, the warning lights stopped coming on.

    For a while. But then they started doing it again and I thought it was an electrical malfunction until a month or so later, when my car's battery died while I was driving it.

    The car had started with no problem and kept going while I drove on the highway, but when I slowed to exit it seemed to lose power and went completely dead shortly after I got off the exit ramp. The guy who came out from TripleA tried to jumpstart the battery and it would start up, but then it wouldn't hold the charge even long enough to drive it up on the tow truck. At the dealership they said it was just a bad battery [said there are a few bad ones in every batch.] They put a new one in and the car seemed to be working fine -until last night. It's only been two months and I've been extra cautious, since they replaced the battery, to be sure no lights were left on, etc., so there must be something else draining it. The warning lights on the dash were coming again and I kept thinking I'd better get it into the shop again but kept putting it off. I work by appointment doing massage therapy and need a big car for my equipment. It's hard taking the time to get it to the dealership and sometimes they don't have a big enough loaner car available, etc.
    Shouldn't have to be taking a brand new car in for repair so much. It is my responsibility, as a disabled vehicle in the road is a danger to myself and others; but I'm wondering at this point if the problem is going to get resolved by taking it to the dealership again tomorrow. I've heard they're not very good with electrical problems.
    Is there something that causes a car battery to die while you're driving it, as opposed to it not wanting to start up, which is the usual sequence of events?

    Thank you for taking the time to listen and (please:) give me some advice.
    Lynn
  • Okay, I'm kind of complex here...I bought my car Class A. I don't know if I have ANY sort of warrenty to speak of. Especially after letting all this time go by. Back at 30,000 miles or before, intermittantly at first, my thermometer / clock light wouldn't come on, or would go out when I turned on my headlights. It was weird. Now, for months it won't come on at all. I am at 100,000 miles plus. Is my Check Engine Light coming on possibly Electrical in nature?? I swear it came on at precisely 100,000 miles, but of course, it took me a little over a week to get the time to let the car stay at the shop for the day. By then, I was waay over the 100,000. Do I have any hope with a dealer, especially since they have NO possibility of making any future money on me?
    :cry: ronnie
  • I'm surprised one of the "real mechanical" types hasn't said anything. But did someone finally mention your alternator? From what I understand your battery has a charge. Then you use the charge to start your car; then in the ensuing time right after that it is re-charged by your alternator converting the turning engine energy into more electrical energy that goes back into your battery. If, your alternator is dead, or not doing it's job, then your battery continues depleting by all your headlight use and restarts until dead. Depending on your battery size, it may only give you one or three starts and that's it. I had a battery issue, I thought, long ago, and that's how my problem solved itself out.
    :blush: uh, good luck.ronnie
  • Problem surfaced during rain while parked, headlps came on-wont go out,ac blower stays enabled without ign on also.Found fuse cover under dash full of water,Possible that water shorted between batt and ign-on circuits frying what is most likely a ground circuit on/in one of the controll modules.Anybody have experience with this? Which module is afu? Where located? etc... ANY help is GREATLY appreciated.DT My wife doesnt like my temp fix of a 22.00 knife switch on the battery negative terminal.
  • OK.....Here's the synopsis.Water entered down radio antenna into "A" pillar then flowed inside wire loom to the fusepanel under dash and an elec module at firewall near fuse panel.This shorted something just enough to activate half the ignition circuit.The issue has self cleared after 24 hour drying out period.Fix will include one of following. )an O ring and/or heat shrink seal at base of roof mtd. radio antenna. )OR ........Jack up said antenna and slide a new car under it. DT
  • We have a Aerio SX 2005. Our dash board lights and tail lights went out. Put a new fuse in and went out again and again. OK I have a short. Brought it to a mechanic who has had it for two days and can not find the short. Anyone have a problem like this one?
  • carthellcarthell Posts: 124
    Electrical work, uggh. It is hahd. Some background:

    1) Residential phone system. Every few months, I would get no dial tone from any of my phones. The solution presented by my phone company was to unplug everything, wait for the company's equipment to reset the breakers, then plug everything back in. One day, the problem got so bad that I went to the local big box hardware store, bought wire, a network wiring book, a polarity tester, new jacks, and junction boxes. Found out that the problem was related to the polarity - the electricity through the 'phone wires were simply running in the wrong way. After running new wire to certain parts of the house and cleaning up the connections (originally put together with electrical tape and plastic twist terminals), everything has worked fine since. I helped a friend solve a portion of his problem when he could not get DSL service.

    2) Fuse problem. This was a cakewalk: My mom was buying fuses very few days for a certain circuit in the house. I asked around, and realized that the replacement fuses being bought didn't have as high an amperage rating as the original. A purchase of a fuse that had a 10A-difference rating solved the problem.

    If you want to do this on your own:
    The simplest thing to do is to make sure that the amperage rating of the replacement fuses that you're buying matches the original.

    The other step (and you MUST have a good background in automotive tech), you'll have to find a electrical diagram of your car (time-limited e-subscriptions are available via Suzuki USA's web site) and a powered probe/meter device available from you local hardware or specialty electronics shop. Start testing the connections between the dash and taillight circuits and other circuits that should NOT cross-connect until you find a fault.
    PLEASE DO NOT TEST THE AIRBAG/SEATBELT RESTRAINT CIRCUITS UNLESS YOU'VE DISCONNECTED THE DEVICES FIRST!!!

    Otherwise, please ask the auto shops in your area for a recently-certified ASE tech with a lot of electrical experience and patience. I speculate that your mechanic gave your car back because of either a realization that the problem:
    a) has a life of its own, and deliberately hides until you reclaim your car (I've
    experienced this w/others for different electronics);
    b) probably will exceed your ability to pay for the time and resources needed to fix everything properly;
    c) exceeded the mechanic's set of skills and resources needed to resolve the situation.

    Nope, I'm not an electrical guy. I "play" with technology to see how things work.

    -d
  • carthellcarthell Posts: 124
    As a result, I can barely see in the daytime the cruise control and left-side tachometer displays on my 2003 SX. The diagrams I have access to show that a panel above the display and the display's front cover can be removed; the display can then be lifted from where it is after removing 4 screws. I'm a little worried about the force that would be needed to remove the items (I used a finger to poke at the edges of the top and front covers; the seal is tight.) Of course, there's no guarantee that the lights are replaceable even if I managed to free the instrument display.

    Has anyone tried to do this? If you've changed the tint of the display, your input is valued, also.

    -d
  • I have a 2001 Suzuki Esteem wagon that has lots of electrical problems... To start with, the rear defroster is automatically "on" (or the light is in the button on the dash panel) every time I turn the car on, until I put the car in reverse, then back into first. Then the light goes off. When that light is on, the rear windshield wiper won't work. When it's off, the wiper works fine.

    However, that's only a small piece of it. The centre brake light in the middle of the tailgate window doesn't work unless I have the car idling in neutral, then sometimes it does but not always. The brake lights on either side at the back work fine. BUT the reverse lights in the tailgate don't work either. They are on, but so dim they are not useful for anything - you have to cup your hands around them to see that they are on at all. The bulbs in these have been replaced with only a marginal improvement.

    The car also has a problem with run-on, which I've been told could be connected to my having bought the car at sea-level and now am driving it at roughly 500m above sea level? The car runs fine, but these little issues pile up and start to annoy. The run-on thing can be an issue - I can have my key out of the ignition completely and it will still be running until I take my foot off the brake which causes it to make an unhappy noise and shudder to a stop (which I try not to do). What the?....

    There are no Suzuki dealerships anywhere near my small BC town, and I don't want to go back out to Vancouver to get it looked at. Any suggestions? I'm also a student and too broke right now to sink much money in. I'm wondering if other people are having these problems and whether or not anyone's made a stink about it. The car is only seven years old - it seems a bit ridiculous to have this many electrical things going wrong in a car so young. Unfortunately, none of these problems were apparent during the test drives or the pre-purchase inspection (we knew about the reverse lights and were assured that it was likely an issue of the bulbs needing replacement which we now know is not the issue.)
  • It sounds to me as if you have a bad ground to tailgate which will cause numerous symptoms due to electrical back feeds from the defroster,rear wiper,backup lights,anything else thats tailgate mounted and electric.Also be sure to run an 8 or 10 gauge wire from the tailgate to ground(any metal surface) as well as the battery to the fender or some other nearby grounded point other than the engine block.This may solve most of your issues.The tailgate ground wire is most likely already in the orig. harness so if you can find that and follow it into wherever that ground ring and bolt or screw (won't be far along) and be sure of good tight elec connection.Usually hidden at floor level maybe under a rear seat? Hope this is helpful. DT
  • Refrence #s 11 and 12,Upon further investigation I found that the rain water from "A pillar" harness had slowly filled up fuses panel cover under dash as well as another unknown module at base of steering column.I drilled two 1/8 dia. holes in lowest corners of fuse cover to allow drainage and I guess the other module dried out on it's own.Car has not repeated issue throughout many heavy rains.Anybody want to buy a knife switch? DT
  • Thanks - that's quite helpful. There is a location I've noticed where the wiring goes through a tube and from beneath the hatch floor to underneath the back seat - I was actually wondering whether the wires might be wearing a bit there, since it's directly in the path of friction every time the seats are lowered.

    Any idea about the run-on issue? I've been told it may also be an issue of the engine running too rich?

    Thanks again for your help - it's really appreciated. :D
  • Electrical backfeeds are tricky devils.The run on could be another symptom of a bad tailgate ground also as the rear defroster and backup lights are both ignition controlled circuits and there is no ground to either it is possible that one(the defroster) is feeding through itself back around the ungrounded loop to the backuplight circuit,through the filaments thus keeping just enough voltage on that half of ign. to keep the ignition at above 6 volts,not enough to "latch" a fuel solenoid but certainly enough to keep said solonoid latched once already there.It is also important to test all under dash fuses as well as the ones under the hood near the battery.There is most likely an open ground somewhere either from engine to fender,or tailgate to wherever or both causing this myraid of issues.Also watch for water in the under dash fuses panel and that silver module at the base of the steering column.This was a similar issue I recently had.See numbers 11,12 and 19 in this thread.Good luck and happy holidays Muddycat, Torpedo out.
  • Did you ever resolve this issue. I am having the exact same problem with my 2003 aerio sx it started a couple of weeks ago
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