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Suzuki Wagon Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • Hello, did you ever get this issue resolved? I have another issue the fuse for the taillights, sidemarkers and part of the dash keeps blowing. The funny thing is when it blows the backlight for the clock comes on. Figure that out
  • I had a real good mechanic look for days to figure it out and finallbroke down and took it to a dealer. IT took them a week to fix it. There was a switch in the steering column that went but they also found a problem in the wiring harness in the headlights. Whey the problem took a few years to surface is beyond me but that is the story they gave me. They did not charge me full price to fix it as I could have bought a new car with the labor expense. I was in constant contact with them on it and told them if the cost to fix it was going to be too high I would rather trade it in for a new one. They charged me $500 or so. I think the switch they replaced was about $200
  • mrslip1234mrslip1234 Posts: 4
    How do you open the hatch back when the key and remote fails to work. I have tried to open the back in many ways but am unsucsessfull. MY left rear tail light is out, it may be related to this problem. please help.
    The only thing I can do is try to take off the inner rear door panel to see if I can pull the releas mechanism. The drivers manual has no release listed for the hatchback just the sedan. I am hoping I can get it to open .

    any thoughts
  • carthellcarthell Posts: 124
    The back hatch can also be released via the power door lock switch on the driver's door, Open the doors twice in rapid succession. You should hear another "clunk" from the back lock on the second open. Also remember that the rubber trim around the hatch edge can be (for me, at least) so sticky at times that you can be fooled into believing that the hatch is still locked. Put a little more muscle into opening the hatch.

    If you truly can't open the door manually from the key slot on the hatch that would imply that a control rod in the lock mechanism has loosened significantly, keeping you from opening the hatch conventionally. There are two anchors and some bolts that help hold the plastic trim to the hatch located along the edges of the hatch door (I also looked at my car to confirm the locations), and are very hard (if near-impossible) to get to while the hatch is closed. If the hatch simply isn't stuck in place by the rubber trim, you'll have to start (argh!) cutting into the hatch's interior plastic cover to get to the lock mechanism.
  • tornspeedotornspeedo Posts: 6
    These wagons/hatchbacks are known for having a loose ground to hatch. You may try an alligator type jumper wire from a known ground to the hatch then try the electric release. It concerns me that the key will not operate the hatch as if the linkage may have fallen off inside the hatch. The key as far as I know is completely independant of the electrical issue and should be mechanically connected to the release mechanisim.Another trick would be to turn the rear wiper on, and with the ignition off try the release button. This would "fool' ground the hatch to the de-energized iginition circuit which at that point(ign off) is one big ground. Good luck...I think you will be pullin that inner panel if none of these work. DT
  • mrslip1234mrslip1234 Posts: 4
    Thanks, I have tried the electric door from either remote or key at the front drivers side hitting it twice as you suggested, It didnt work.
    I hope I dont have to cut the panel But I am not far away from trying that.I will try that when I get off night shift.
  • mrslip1234mrslip1234 Posts: 4
    good Idea, an alligator jumper. and or the rear wiper alsoo cool idea.

    I will let you guys know tommorow night thanks very much
    md
  • mrslip1234mrslip1234 Posts: 4
    Can you tell me what switch they replaced and perhaps any other specifics?

    thanks
    md
  • KCRam@EdmundsKCRam@Edmunds Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,496
    Just so there's no confusion, I believe carthell is referring to the door lock switch on the inside of the door, where you would lock or unlock the doors while in the driver's seat.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Moderator

  • carthellcarthell Posts: 124
    Never post around bedtime! Regretful things might be typed. Add "with the power lock button on the armrest" to the end of "Open the doors," and a complete, specific thought is formed. (Audience cheers, confetti falls from everywhere, the seas part...)
  • Where on this car is it located and what does it look like?
  • tray72tray72 Posts: 2
    edited March 2010
    I have a 2003 Suzuki Aerio. I recently had a mechanic to change the starter because the car wouldn't start and I took it to Autozone who told me that it was probably the charging system. Well my mechanic put the new starter on and it ran fine for a week. All of the sudden yesterday I got in it to go to lunch and the dashboard started blinking on and off but the radio was still on and the car was still driving. I turned the car off and when I started it it cranked right up. Later that night it did the same thing and when I tried to start it it would not start. What could this be? Is there some sort of electrical problem like a safety switch issue or something?
  • carthellcarthell Posts: 124
    First, make sure that the battery terminals are securely connected to the battery cables. Earlier last year, I cleaned and sprayed lots of anti-corrosive on the terminals. Put the cables on as snugly as I could, and ran fine for 24 hours until I had to leave work. Turned the key: no cranking, no power, nothin'. Thought about if for a while, then used an insulated pair of pliers and a little brute force to push one of the cables fully on the terminal. Car fired up as usual.

    Howzabout the generator? Did you have it tested? If you had the battery tested after each failure, and it is outputting less than 10 volts, the generator might be the problem.
  • tray72tray72 Posts: 2
    I had the battery tested and it's really a fairly new battery too. It tested fine, there's no corrosion on it but I will have my friend to make sure the cables are fully on the terminal and I will ask him about the generator as well. Thanks.
  • I know this is an old post but I had this same trouble. The cable connecting to the battery frays something awful. If you re-twist it and cover it with silicone it will hold out. :)
  • I FOUND IT!

    I had all the same problems.

    Right Side of the car, under the back right side window, under the carpet and plastic, you have a bunch of connectors there, one of them is a two connector pair.
    It was all brown instead of yellow, because of the heat of a faulty connection to the defroster, backup light, and all that.
    It gets pretty hot even when the connection is good.

    The ground is the black with silver spots cable.

    Reconnected them properly and it works perfectly now.

    Thanks for the hints people !!

    Med
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