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Chrysler 300M Starting/Stalling problems



  • Does the engine sputter / stall out completely , or does the electrical drop out quickly? I suspect it is the latter , which is common when the electrical system has not been serviced properly.

    I have the full Chrysler Technician Service Manuals , complete with full diagnostic and repair procedures for 99-04 300M's , including the Special etc. on CD. If you are interested , I could send you a full copy for your future use : FREE via mail. Let me know if you are interested , and I will quickly post my email address (then edit it out to refrain from offering a multitude). With Adobe Reader , you can view every single piece/part of the car , and any applicable symptom solutions. 10,000 pages +.

    I'm busy right now , but I will come back and edit this post , to suggest a permanent fix to your problem , once I know more about what is actually happening when the car shuts off.
  • While I'm driving it just shuts off as if I was turning it off flat line what I call it
  • My wife has a 2002 300M. We have had it for a little over 3 years. We had issue with starter clicking. Had it replaced under the aftermarket warranty we bought from chrysler dealer. Well needless to say ever since we have had issues. They have been replacing them every time. Last time we took it to a chrysler dealership and had them diagnose it. They Came back with nothing. They have replaced the starter every time and it's been 7-8 times now and same issue. The most recent they supposingly put OEM starter on it and it's lasted almost a year this go around but still issues

    Well now the car is out of the warranty and Chrysler is wanting 600 to replace starter cause they'll have to diagnose it again but the tech said it would be honestly waste of money since our records show same thing with nothing found.

    We were driving the other day stopped to eat (it was raining outside) stopped for 45-1 hour. Went outside and just clicked nothing more. Got a ride home went back with some tools removed air filter housing and checked terminals everything seemed tight as I could feel. Tried jumping it still nothing. Slammed hood several times still nothing

    Tow truck shows up next morning and it fires right up. He shut it off 3 times and fired back up each time no problem. We went ahead and had it towed he pulls it up on the truck to try agaiand it wouldn't start. So we towed it to my moms house her husband has a shop with lift etc.

    I haven't been out there yet as family emergency came up but he said he's been out there the past 2 days and tried starting it numerous times right after each other and it fires right up like nothing is wrong.

    Im at a lost for words. I have no clue where to start. I'm kinda strapped for money right now but don't mind forking it out if it's a actual fix and not same thing we have been doing. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP!!!
  • pitmanoeuvrepitmanoeuvre Posts: 68
    edited November 2011
    It sounds to me like you have a grounding problem. All ground wire mounting spots/points must be checked for rust or corrosion. Remove driving light on passenger side (ground wires there). Remove ground terminals from driver's side inner fender rail , clean with wire brush etc.

    There are major discrepancies in the Chrysler Service manuals , as to whether or not there "is" or "should be" a dedicated ground cable going from the battery ground terminal (directly to the passenger side engine block). The manual says there is 1 there as such , but it doesn't exist. The manual also says that there is supposed to be a ground cable bolted directly behind the starter (on the transmission casing) - but there aren't. These types of discrepancies can cause all sorts of power failures , clips , etc. , where the PCM will shut down as a result , or the starter will not engage etc. Plus , you really need to be checking the engine ground straps that are braided , which go from the engine "head" to the inner fender well mounts (GROUND). If just 1 braided strap fails to conduct to ground , (rusted) , a no-power condition can exist. I have replaced just 1 , and had the engine start & run without any issue in the past.

    The same principals can be applied : if you were to attempt to use a rusty lightbulb , and screw it into the socket of a lamp. The result would be : intermittent lighting of the filament , dimness of the bulb , on-off conditions , or no lighting of the bulb - or the bulb might burn out as a result of improper & inconsistent voltage flow to the filament. With today's computers , the computer will sense an abnormal condition (and treat it as a short) - shutting the entire system down.

    Another noteworthy thought I just had (you said it was raining) when you had the no start condition. In the Service Manuals , they mention that the rear window defroster lines are not embedded into the glass (they are glued on top of the inner glass) - therefore you should not clean the inner of the rear window with harsh chemicals of any kind (water only). Those lines could be broken , cracked (not working) , "or" - crossing over each other , "or" RUSTED on the window edge contact areas to the window frame.
  • About the back window wires. It's been raining the entire time past 4 days even while he's getting it to start its same outside condition.

    I'm going to Go ahead and replace the battery and possibly the battery terminals they are corroded pretty bad on top. I'll check the grounding straps and othe grounds too. I pray I figure this out. It's been eating me alive. We love the car and it will be paid off in 6 months. Hate to get something else after getting it paid off so I hope I get it solved.

    Anymore ideas send them my way please
  • It's a faulty wire that connects to your starter its a small thin wire on the side of the starter
  • Need to look at the actual wires and cables themselves, I having same issues with my 99 300m. We took the front tire OFF to change the battery and after a quick look behind the fender well was the main positive battery cable and the inner tie rod. The tie rod has rubbed the positive battery cable until the bare wire is showing. So everytime I turned the wheel while driving or at any time the bare wire came in contact with the tie rod the car would die b/c it grounds outs (so to speak). Hope this helps. It really made me fell better that it was something as simple as that!
  • are you speaking of the wire that goes from the battery to the starter itself?
  • Well got the car back today from my moms husband. He searched everything he could and found nothing. The entire week it was out there it started multiple times daily for him. It was getting power to the starter wire and we load tested the battery and it's good. We get out there to drive it home and it fires right up. On the way home her fog lights came on and I called and asked and she said the switch has been on whole time and she hasn't messed with it. It was odd but I happen to see them come on. Then we get home and park in the garage. Shut it off. And guess what won't start just click as soon as you hit the key. One click per turn of the key.

    Any ideas
  • Hello, by chance would you be able to provide a copy of the manual?
    I am also experiencing the same issue with my 2007 300 Touring.
    Already had the spark plugs replaced, filter and #6 cyliniod replaced. Also fuel injection service done on it as well.
  • So I finally broke down and went to the auto shop and after replacing, my coil (4), battery,spark plugs, cam sensor and my fuel pump come to find out it was my crank sensor the whole time. So.if your 300m just cuts off while your driving you might.wanna check.that out before spending a bunch of money.
  • bronx300 : Drop your entire mailing address into : ( - without brackets , and I will send you the entire 99-04 300M Chrysler Service Manuals in the mail asap.

    You will not be sorry you did , as I will NOT use your address for anything else , nor share it. These are Technician Service Manuals , that specifically instruct the technician what must be done , what is involved , every single facet of a diagnosis and / or repair. You could expect to pay hundreds of dollars for these , as they are completely thorough , and NOT knockoff's , they are direct from Chrysler and contain authentication certificates / application documentations. They are complete copies off of the design bench.

    Whereas , you will NOT be able to flip through them like you might a Chilton or Haynes manual. Using Adobe Reader 9 etc. , you will notice sections as large as 6000+ pages. Huge , huge manuals which include everything from troubleshooting to schematics.

    Depending on your location , I have a copy already made , so you could have it (free) within a week or less. I originally made a copy to ensure that I didn't lose it from my computer , which would be a great loss. I'll flip it into the mail as soon as I get the information required to do so. I gaurantee you won't believe how much information is in these manuals.

    I have had these manuals for over 6 months and still don't have the time to figure out an approx. volume size (over 10,000 pages at least).
  • Hello my 300 will not start.It turns over but wont start up,IDK what to do. I came home from work one evening filled up with gas parked it for the night,next day will not start tryed everything what should i do?
  • loualloual Posts: 4
    I turn key so the dash lights come on and the dinging sound starts.
    Do nothing until dinging stops.
    Then turn key to start car.
    Also I use a bottle of fule line cleaner about $8 each tankful
    Above works for me.
    Good luck to you
  • Hi,
    I have a 99 300m with 230,000 miles on it. When i drive long distances say like a half hour away from my house and back it won't start if i go to turn it off and then back on. I try to turn it on and the car wont roll over. I can't even do errands in this car because of this. Lately it has been happening frequently. I am so afraid i will get stuck i wont even turn my car off at the gas station because this has happened to me there before. Sometimes i can get it to start if i pump the gas pedal while turning the key in the ignition. It will only start if it sits for like an hour or so then i can get it to start. The check engine light comes on every now and then when it happens, then goes away eventually. I was told it was the fuel pump from a friend who had a similar problem. Help, what is this??
  • I have been having this problem since July 2011....I read somewhere that if you turn the car off and then turn the key on and off about three times in succession, without actually turning the key far enough to turn the engine over, the car will start. I have done performed this remedy on three occasions and it works like a charm. I have not had to walk home recently.....only to return to my car an hour later and have it start. I have brought the car in and no one can seem to find anything wrong with it.
  • Thanks, i will have to try this. Hopefully it works for me!
  • I have a 2000 300m one day I go to start the car and it started right up and died. So I tried to start it 2 more times and it started and died right away. The starter tested good. I checked all the fuses and relays also. I checked the fuel and fuel pump. When I turn the key the only light that comes on the dash is the red oil light no abs light no battery light or anything. I got another ecm and it then started 3 times and died and then I tried one more and nothing just like before I changed it. The cars lights work and power windows and locks work. If it matters I do have a grey key with a chip. One guy told me it could be the chip in the key went bad can that be my problem. Please help.
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    I remember I found a site that showed me how to turn the key 3xs without starting the car so that I could get the trouble code on the dash, it turned out my crank sensor was bad. Had it replaced along with the cam sensor and the car started and ran good ever since. Hope this helps.
  • pitmanoeuvrepitmanoeuvre Posts: 68
    edited April 2012
    Given your descriptions of the problem , you should be mostly concentrated on the fact that your entire dash cluster of sensor lights are not illuminating when the key is moved into the run position prior to actually starting the engine.

    The very first thing to do is to disconnect the fender ground connection and inspect the battery / including mainly it's cables. If the battery power cable is hard as a rock / unflexible , nearest the battery , it is time to splice a 12" section onto the cable terminals , or replace the entire cable. This can and does account for alot on a vehicle with a massive or sensitive electrical system. At this point , if this condition exists , there is no point checking any of the PDC relays or fuses. It is possible that your (ASD Relay) Automatic Shutdown Relay is working as normal , where the voltage is either inconsistent or inadequate. The ASD Relay is in the (PDC) Powertrain Control Center , where you will also find at least 1 power cable connected. It must be free of rust and corrosion. The PDC plastic cover should indicate where the ASD Relay is. Simply measuring a voltage at the ASD Relay contacts could tell you alot , but the ASD Relay itself must also conduct whatever voltage is input into it as well. Any time there is a fluctuation or problem in the electrical system , the ASD Relay shuts the system down.

    Given that the engine starts , that indicates that there isn't any "on engine" sensor problems , although there may be wiring problems / conductivity. Something as simple as a transmission position sensor , could also cause a fault in the electrical system , where the ASD Relay will be triggered. The transmission position sensor must pass the startup electrical procedure , as all of the sensors must. This is why it is very important that you see the maximum of lights light up when you turn the key to the on/run position. Starting by checking the battery fill and power output , and all of it's related cables and connections , can provide you with lights in the dash lighting up after you make changes. That would confirm why the engine is starting up , and then being shut down repeatedly.

    Bad battery cables are the most common reasons why electrical problems exist , and even a tester connected to the vehicle at a garage cannot perform properly , or display a proper diagnosis without adequate power from the battery etc. Usually the first 2 feet of both battery cables are the problem , as they are corroding at one end , and being heated by the engine/exhaust at the other within 2 feet. This creates a void where electrical current is irratic / inadequate / non-existent or too variable for the vehicle's electrical system to ignore as "normal".

    The worst case scenario I have ever seen hidden , was on a semi tractor , where 2 full feet of cables were stuck together as a result of friction between the 2 cables. Bare cable of 1 cable was touching the other full time and accounted for minor intermittent problems as well as a lack of electrical power. In a 4 battery linked system , everything worked but not reliably , where any problems were never diagnosed to any avail. They could only be temporarily improved. To think that those cables were making contact while over 300 gallons of diesel capacity was within a few feet , speaks volumes about actually taking any wrapping or securing apparatus from these cables to ensure they are in good condition where they come together. Assuming that a meter can tell you otherwise is not the answer , where the vehicle has had radio/amplifier/lighting and starting problems , usually coupled with constant battery and alternator problems. These sections are the heart of any electrical system.

    The effect is that the alternator voltage cannot get to the battery to maintain the battery's charge or state of charge , and the battery's voltage cannot provide the electrical system with a consistent and necessary voltage that is constantly monitored and regulated by electrical circuits/components/computers etc. The exact same symptoms many owners have can be repeated , by connecting a very bad battery to the vehicle and driven. No charging can occur regardless of any electrical cables or wiring , due to a faulty battery. This makes it so that your dash lights may be dim , your turn signals may not function correctly (they do not flash simultaneously) , your radio/stereo is faint , your starter turns over slowly , your engine coil or coils do not produce enough power to allow a proper spark through the spark plugs to the engine cylinders/gas mixture injection etc. etc. The vehicle will probably chug , have poor braking or steering on vehicles equipped with electrical assist or sensors , and in general be a pain in the butt. Always having some sort of problem.

    The code for an ASD Relay problem or shutdown is : P1388 on a 2000 300m. In a case where the starter solenoid no longer clicks or is charged with power , where the starter was turning previously , you have yet another hidden connection that is faulty within the solenoid. You can determine this with a fully charged or new battery , where the solenoid suddenly clicks or the starter begins to turn. But after repeating the process the more powerful battery will allow you to determine that the solenoid has a short connection internally. Just 2 small wires can cause an immediate reaction from the ASD Relay , where no power will any longer reach the solenoid as well. Measuring the voltage to the solenoid is of no concern , what is of concern is that the solenoid is shorted , causing an ASD Relay shutdown. Even while the starter motor itself is still good.
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