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2008 Cadillac CTS



  • pony00pony00 Posts: 10
    Hi pao,

    I actually just found out my dealership did use a hunter balancing machine, so it must be another issue. I just hope it's not the entire steering column. I did notice it shaking more after I had a tire patched, but I had all 4 tires balanced after that.

    This is so frustrating!
  • pony00pony00 Posts: 10
    I had a GT Mustang for 10 years and never had my speakers rattle like this and of course the system in a mustang is much less quality than a Cadillac (I would think). I also heard others with a similar issue (the dealer said people were complaining about it). I would think a Bose system would work better than that. I'm not blaring my radio, it also happened on just a normal talk radio station so there's something definitely wrong with the way the speakers are installed or some casing around it that's causing it to rattle. It's not a big enough deal to keep getting it checked out for though.

    The sunroof was leaking, the drain pipes were clogged so once they unclogged them that fixed the leak issue, but they must have broken the seal in the meantime. This wasn't a normal wind noise, it sounded like the door was open. They fixed the problem though with a new seal like you said, so I was happy :)

    The first year of owning my 08 CTS I had the timing belt replaced too which isn't a normal wear and tear item it was a known problem. There are definite defects in this car, which is understandable since 2008 was the first year the newer body style was out. I just didn't expect to have this many issues with the car this soon. I take care of my CTS and love it so I don't want to see anymore major issues wrong with it. I'm worried I might need a new exhaust if the new hangers they installed don't work over time. I guess I'll keep the car for now :)
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 451
    I have an '09 CTS. I don't have the problem with the speakers rattling, but I doubt it is a better system than your Mustang GT. It does have the Bose name and I think highly of their at home systems. I am not sure that their car systems are any better than anything else.
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,707
    One thing about the CTS to be aware of is that the oil life sensor in them is half as sensitive as it should be. It's a known problem and most mechanics recommend changing the oil when it gets to 50%. If the oil additives fail, the engine has a tendency to eat its bottom end. Since synthetic oil has no natural anti-wear properties, there is no margin for error once the oil fails.

    Change the synthetic every 6K miles or 6 months. Don't let it go lower than 50%. It costs twice what normal oil does, but at half the frequency, it equals out.
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    just one point...there is no sensor in the oil life monitor.....the calculation is simply based on an algorithm run from the ECM, the computer uses some of the vehicle operating conditions to supply data, but there is no sensor measuring the oil condition..... efa6b30/975c7820afba1004895010145efa6b30.pdf
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    but the question that needs to be asked is whether they did a road force balance.......and not just a simple spin balance...
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,707
    The mechanic said "sensor" to me, but it if it's a program or whatever, the advice still stands. The car shouldn't be run for 12-15K miles between changes. I've heard this directly from a Cadillac Dealership mechanic, so basically ignore the PR and what it says for these cars and change it at no more than 50%. I don't know if it's like the Toyota engines where they were less tolerant of missed oil changes (sludge/etc), or if it's just a programming error, but this seems to only be an issue with the new VVT engines.

    There are many cases of engines destroying themselves due to the oil failing. Almost always the person says something like "it had 20% life left". According to mechanics on a several of the Cadillac forums, what is the main culprit is that the engines apparently have a lot of grit and fine debris that comes off of the internal parts when the engine is new (this is common with all new cars), but that people wait for 8K or even 10-12K before getting the first oil change. The oil life sensors will not report 0% until they are nearly at 15K miles, and most people think 0% means "time to change" (instead of your oil is now 100% dead and providing as much protection as water) By then, they're damaging the engine and sure enough, they start burning a quart of oil a month by 20-30K miles. Then the engine eats itself around 50-60K.

    The oil changes should be done at 1K the first time to get that junk out of the engine, then at 3K. By then the engine should be good to go and you can resume doing it at every 5-6K (5K would be better, of course, esepcaily if you live in a major city). Mechanics who have had customers follow this advice simply don't see people have problems with their engines. Yes, the oil change is expensive. Well so is a BMW or Mercedes - you can't run a $40K Cadillac on a shoe-string budget any more. These are not your grandfather's Northstars.

    Also, if your engine does fail, be sure to put oil in it before taking it to the dealership or they will blame you for not running it with oil in it and not honor the warranty. So what happened to the oil? It's sitting in the cat and muffler, most likely - all 4 or 5 quarts of it. -recall-of-3-6l-v6-engine
    It seems as if GM is trying to do a Toyota type back-door computer "fix" for the oil life monitor in these engines by claiming that it's a timing chain issue.

    Just something to be aware of.
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    having had the GMOLMS in 4 GM cars now...I have honestly nevered used it as a sole data point to change oil......using synthetic in all of them....I changed it ever 5-6K......the 04 Chevy got stretched to 7K on occasion and is still running fine at 220K now........

    I agree on 12-15 k between an oil change is way too long for this particular car......I must admit I waited almost a year to change the oil in my 09 CTS here recently, but with that said it also was driven less than 4K during that time frame...Its not a daily driver and mostly gets used on the weekends just rolled over 39K here recently and will be 4 years old this October....
  • tooeagletooeagle Posts: 1
    Marsian's comments are basically correct except I don't know why some people have to "talk down" to other people making posts and giving opinions, when they might be better informed or more experienced than another poster. With his apparent experience with the CTS, he (or she) could have just started off with "i disagree" and go on. Further, I wouldn't consider anything sinerii said as "dangerous" as he implied.

    I'm just here looking for reasons to buy, or not to buy a CTS. If they really are comparatively bad in snow and/or slippery conditions compared to other AWD cars, then as an existing owner of an older AWD Acura TL which IS exceptionally good in snow, I'll probably pass and get another Acura AWD TL or RL. Sorry, I'm off topic. But just had to throw my 2 cents in.
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,836
    edited April 2012
    With snow tires, RWD cars can be fine in snow except for the ground-clearance issues.
    In city-snow, proper tires allow the RWD driver more flexibility getting into on-street/half-ice parking spots. But FWD is better, all else being equal... Best to have a FWD Chevy Cruze for winter use if one owns a CTS-V. The snow tires & snow-rims for CTS-V would probably cost as much as an entire Chevy Cruze, if they are even available for it ;) :| .

    Also i must nitpick marsian's comment about the 'perfection' of Front Wheel Drive. Front Wheel Drive is nowhere close to perfect. It's major flaw will always torque-steer, not due to a design issue, but due to Newtonian physics.
    Designs with different-sized halfshafts/balanceshafts/blahblah can only mitigate mother-nature's insistence that front-wheel-drive sucks for performance vehicle applications.


    one of the top 3000 likely USA buyers of a new CTS-V, according to detailed market research!
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,836
    Blizzak or similar... get the best... you won't regret it when you hit the brakes...
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Front wheel drive may not be perfect, but front wheel drive with snow tires and adequate ground clearance is suitable for most severe winter situations. I live in northern Ontario and was travelling in a severe snow storm about 2 months ago. It was early Sunday evening, many of the roads had not been plowed, and the parking lot to our apartment building certainly had not been plowed. I was returning from Duluth, MN. There was about 8 to 9 inches of snow on the ground. I had no problem navigating the snow. I drive a front wheel drive Chevy Uplander with snow tires in the winter. The next day at work, my work colleagues were describing how their 4 wheel drive vehicles were getting stuck in the snow. They did not have snow tires.
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,836
    agree 100% JPF... one time I've found AWD/4WD is absolutely required in addition to snow/ice tires - is on steep/ice/snow driveways - with at least one switchback turns - so you can't use momentum to compensate for lack of traction. gotta have 4WD/AWD for that application!

    another big win for traction in winter is: MANUAL TRANSMISSION - much better than automatic.
    It's nice that Cadillac offers manuals in so many CTS. A manual transmission with AWD could be veeeery nice, maybe nicer than a CTS-V with manual. (!?)
  • tdbmdtdbmd Posts: 20
    It has been my experience, living in a snowy climate, that the tires on your car make the biggest difference regarding performance in the snow. If you have summer or even high performance all-season, they really are not geared for snow, whether in FWD, RWD or AWD. Going to a set of dedicated snow tires makes all of these drive modes much better in snowy conditions. Not to mention much better STOPPING and TURNING, which is even more important. So if you really need to go out in snow with your car and your get much snow at all, get a set of true snow tires.
  • gersgers Posts: 2
    It took a month to figure out why the drivers seat in my new CTS Lux. was giving me a back ache. I get no support. The seat is like sitting on a BALL, with pressure applied to the middle of my bottom. The seat back is the same with pressure against my spine. When I take corners I flop from side to side for I am not sinking into the seat, not being supported like a bucket seat should provide. My last vehicles since my 1999 Volvo, 2005 Acura TL, 2007 Infiniti M35 and 2009 Maxima were so comfortable I never thought to pay attention to the CTS seat when test driving. I should have read the Edmunds review which points this problem out. Has any one with this problem gotten a resolution from Cadillac? Thanks, GiGi
  • bingomanbingoman Posts: 373
    Where any of these past cars purchased new?
  • Good evening gers,
    I'm sorry that your seats are leaving you uncomfortable. Does your CTS have power seats, and if so have you already tried adjusting the different components of the seat? You can find more information on this on page 3-4 of your manual.
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • I've had my CTS luxury for 7 weeks now and my biggest complaint is the stiffness and lack of seat comfort. (second is the mpg). I have herniated discs in my neck and lower back (will be needing cervical surgery in the fall) and unfortunately didn't notice the seat issue the three times that I test drove the car. Next time I want to change automobile manufacturers, I will rent the vehicle for at least a week so that I can really get a feel for the car). I came from a 2009 Volvo S80 and 2006 S60 and never had any problems with seat comfort. I don't sway like (gers), but have adjusted the seat to every possible angle and just can't get comfortable. Sad that such a nice car, does not have a rounder and softer seat.
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