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Volkswagen Jetta Engine Questions

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Comments

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If you are seeing ALL those codes (P0351, P0352,P0353,P0354 )... and have new plugs and wires... all that is left is the coilpack itself. (or bad ground-connection to the coilpack) This is not an inexpensive part. I would personally consider a good used one from scrapyard if I could find one.

    BTW: I just installed a new (green) ECT (Engine Coolant Temparature) sensor in my wifes Jetta yesterday. Then I hooked up my laptop computer and reset all the codes. So far, the light on the dashboard has NOT come back on and the temparture guage has been working as expected.
  • suz18suz18 Posts: 1
    I have a 2011 2.0 VW Jetta, 16400 miles. Just had the axles replaced because the cv boots had slight tears. From the very first driver after they were replaced, I have loud noise when it reaches 38 RMP. I can not take it to 75-80 because the noise gets louder and you can feel it. My mechanic is confused. He then replaced the Rear Tranny mount (dog bone) because he noticed it did have more play in it then should have thinking this was the problem. He is now playing the guessing game. He even thought maybe the wheel bearing but it doesn't make the noise constantly. I do not have any $$$ to take it to the dealership. Help!!!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The rubbers on the CV joints were torn at 16K miles.... OWCHIE... The only time I have EVER had such a problem is when porcupines were nibbling on them to get at the road-salt from the winter. Most vehicles will go well over 100,000 miles before CV joints need any attention.

    Some of the cheap rebuilt "aftermarket" parts will not perform nor last nearly as long as real VW components.

    If you are CERTAIN that the new axles were properly installed and are original GERMAN components... then I am sorry to tell you that what you describe may be INSIDE the transmission.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    calivdub: If that noise was not there before the CV replacement, it sure sounds like the repair was not done correctly, or the replacements were defective. Has your tech gone back to make sure all bolts and fittings were properly tightened? Also, some vdubs have different axle lengths for each side, but I wouldn't think they could be mixed up. vwdawg
  • ndmike88ndmike88 Posts: 155
    Wouldn't your Jetta be under warranty? Its a 2011 with 16,000 miles. All repairs should be covered. Am I missing something here?
  • I have the exact same problem as you. I just had my axle replaced because of torn CV boots and now there is a very loud loise at 3800 RPM. I am afraid to drive it on the freeway because it is so loud. Did they finally figure out what was wrong with it?
  • Hi there
    can anyone assist me on how to determine whether the 99 jetta engine is aba or aeg
    thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,530
    The engine code and engine number (serial number) are die-stamped on the front of the cylinder block above the crankcase breather.

    In addition, an adhesive label on the drive belt cover lists the engine code and engine number.

    The engine code is also listed on the vehicle identification sticker in the luggage compartment.

    MODERATOR

  • shelfershelfer Posts: 4
    Car cut out. Spark and Compression are fine. Plugs are dry, so my diagnosis is lack of fuel...either plugged filter (or bad fuel pump) Car has about 140k miles on it and it looks to be an older filter (yes I know, daughters car for a long time that we bought foir other daughter). She usually had work done somewhere.

    Anyway, how does one release the fuel line connections? There are two very small holes on the connector - is there a special tool that goes in there or does it use the knid that goes in via the end of the line and spreads out the clip?

    In either case, is it a sized tool only for the German cars, or a standardized size.

    I've poked, probed and chanted...have yet to call a voodoo doctor or Mr. Spock to put the Vulcan pinch on it.

    Thanks in advance.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hey All: 2006 Golf w/ 86k miles. Typical annoying VW electrical "ghosts". Locks are supposed to self-lock after about one minute if no doors are opened (safety feature which re-locks the doors if unlocked due to remote "unlock" button being inadvertantly depressed). So...prob is, I assume, that the sensor on the driver door latch has failed, so the self-lock mechanism doesn't know the driver door has been opened, and the automatic locking activates anyway. Very annoying, and also presents the issue of the keys being locked in the car if you leave them inside (as my son discovered a few months back). All this to say...is it possible to disable the self-lock feature? I have access to a VAG-COM. I would just as soon NOT spend $200 for a new latch plus several hours of labor tearing the door apart. Or am I on the wrong track here...some other solution that might be offered? Help! Thanks...vwdawg.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,530
    edited May 2012
    You should be able to pop the cover off the fuel pump---then briefly crank the starter motor or have someone do that (work safely!). You should hear the fuel pump start up audibly. If it doesn't, then I'd check the fuse circuit for the fuel pump (I think it is #G6) and if that's okay, then the fuel pump relay is suspect.

    You can also check for fuel in the fuel rail by depressing the little Schrader valve under the hood (wear safety glasses to protect your eyes).

    MODERATOR

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I can pretty-much GUARANTEE that your no-start problem is not caused by fuel-filter.

    You should be able to hear the fuel-pump run for about 3 seconds if you turn the key to "ON" without cranking the engine. (Some older VWs even pre-pressurized the fuel-system when you opened the drivers door... I know my daughters Gulf did that)

    Also check fuel-pump fuse and relay.
  • shelfershelfer Posts: 4
    Actually figured out how to undo the clips-

    Careful scrutiny and voodoo (with chanting) revealed that the outermost portion of the clip, directly across from the two pin holes was indeed a small button (raised about 1 mm high) which relased the grip on the fitting. An interior panel tool worked well to remove the line.

    After a voltage test on the wiring on the connector to the fuel pump (the two outermost wires) revealed that the voltage was getting to the connector.

    The pump did not hum, so I have taken it out, and then connected it directly to the battery, with the wires attached to the pump itself.

    Chanting and more voodoo did not bring it back to life.

    Thus, a new fuel pum, with gauge float and rheostat has been ordered and should arrive in a day or so.

    I will certainly post if this was indeed the culprit when it it returned to life, as I hate diagnostic threads without conclusions and eventual success.

    Thanks.
  • shelfershelfer Posts: 4
    OK. It was indeed the fuel pump. However, for 2004, there are appapently 2 diffent size flanges on teh top of the fuel pimp where it goes into the tank. One measures about 5 inches across in diameter, the other is 5.5 in diameter.

    Of course, I ended up getting the wrong size off of an online order, so I disconnected the float and wiring from the new unit as well as the fuel lines and connected them to the old top flange.

    Cost of new pump was $80 on line, much better than via a parts house around here where pirices ranged from $218 - $308.

    Reinstalled it and away we went (of course I tested it for hum prior to putting it in the tank - older unit had no hum at all, see earlier post).

    Car has much better acceleration now than it has had for some time, leading me to believe that the fuel flow volume was down or just that the pressure was not coming from the pump as it should have been.

    For those that wish to test the unit in the car also - the outermost wires on the connection plug are the ones that power the fuel pump. You can check for current with the key on at that point (Seeing if the relay is still supplying power.)

    I would also guess that one could bypass the relay in order to run the pump in an emergency situation if the relay was bad.

    I put my findings out here so hopefully they will aid someone else in the future.
  • heyjack1heyjack1 Posts: 1
    My wife washec the car the other day and sprayed off the engine and now is running rough and now the check engine light comes on and flashes for a couple seconds and then stays on and just keeps repeating. Someone please tell me what is wrong. We love this car to death and dont want to get rid of it.
  • shelfershelfer Posts: 4
    You should be able to go to a Kragen, O'Rielly or Autozone and they can pull the code. My guess is that it is an igniter problem. (P03xx) with xx being the cylinder where the igniter is shorted out. The igniter swap is relatively easy just don't force the connector. The part is much cheaper aftermarket than it is at Volkswagen if that is indeed the problem. Let me know if that does the trick!
  • vdudzz84vdudzz84 Posts: 8
    Someone please tell me if air coming out of the oil tank is normal? Guy at Valvoline said it's normal.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have been fixing vehicles for many years.... but I am not sure what you mean by "Oil Tank".... Please be specific.
  • vdudzz84vdudzz84 Posts: 8
    So i have air coming outta my oil valve. When the oil cap is loose it bounces around. I went to Valvoline and they told me it's normal for jetta to do that. It seems kind of odd to me. I work to late in the day to make it to a vw machanic so i have no idea if this is a problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,530
    Oh you mean you have pressure in the crankcase? Yeah, that could be a defective PCV valve or "oil separator" (fancy name for it).

    MODERATOR

  • vdudzz84vdudzz84 Posts: 8
    I was told that my car doesn't have a pcv valve? This is my first VW so I'm not 100% with it yet
  • vdudzz84vdudzz84 Posts: 8
    Ment the oil valve. Crank case
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,530
    maybe they call it an oil separator.

    MODERATOR

  • vdudzz84vdudzz84 Posts: 8
    Is there a way to test to see if the oil separator is junk?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,530
    Let's back up. Tell us the year, model and engine you have, and what your symptoms are.

    MODERATOR

  • vdudzz84vdudzz84 Posts: 8
    I have a 99 aeg 2.0 vw jetta. I just had a full tune up. When i bought the car it had been sitting for 6 months. Right now my oil light stays blinking. I have a lot of air coming out of the top of the oil valve where the cap is. Loosing the cap and it dances sort of speak. It alsogoes thru oil like crazy. I had an oil change 3 week later it was bone dry. It has 119k on the motor.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,530
    edited June 2013
    THIS MIGHT BE what you need.

    JETTA PCV

    MODERATOR

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Your VW engine does *not* have a "PCV valve" like many American-Named vehicles. Instead, VW uses a simple oil-separator which attempts to keep the oil in the crankcase while allowing air to escape into the intake manifold

    When you loosen the oil-fill cap, you are simply allowing some of the excess pressure to escape so the oil-separator does not have to work so hard.

    Unfortunately, there may not be any way you can replace external parts to fix the problem you describe.

    Your description sure sounds as if you have a SERIOUS mechanical problem with your engine. There is sooooo much blowby past the piston-rings, the oil-separator cannot keep up with the amount of airflow past it.

    The blinking oil-lite is another indicator that the engine is in SERIOUS trouble. This means that the oil-pump cannot build up enough pressure to protect the engine.
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