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Volkswagen Jetta Engine Questions



  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Are you CERTIAN you are not thinking about the about COP (Coil On Plug) ignition-units on the which had a bad batch get into the mix? The status of the those COP units was ONLY if one failed, then VW would replace it.

    The 2.0 engine that we are talking about here DOES NOT have COP ignition-units.

    If there is something "pending" which you are refering to besides the COP units... please append some reference URLS that support that statement. I would be very interested to review those documents because both of my daughters have VWs of that vintage with 2.0L engines.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    bpeebles: Not sure which system 77camaro was referring to, but I was referring to the 1.8T, which DOES use the COPs. I'm not familiar with the 2002 2.0, but I assume it's a NON-turbo, which would not use the COP units, right? If that engine does not use COPs, then you are very likely correct...I have not heard of any pending suits for the non-COP systems. vwdawg/audiphile1
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    BTW, there is now a recall on the ignition coils for the 2.5 engine...not sure what years are included, we have a 2005.
  • there is a site you can check for recalls- lemon law volkswagen ignition coil when you go here the left margin has where you can plug in year make model engine etc. they will tell you of pending suites or if recall has been resolved good luck the dealer still has not released coils to me do to pending suit car has been down for over a month tired of putting used coils just ordered set of bremi's I just registered in suite to get reimbursed. :mad:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The 2.5L engine uses COP (Coil On Plug) ignition units. Apparently, these COP units have been troublesome for VW.

    There is a reason that COP units are considerd high-tech.... each indivudual ignition-unit is plugged DIRECTLY into the top of the sparkplug. This means the COP unit must endure extremely high heat from the cylinder head. Heat and electronics do not mix well. (The heat always wins in the end)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    There are several websites that list recalls and TSB (Technicial Service Bullitens)

    My personal favorite is ALLDATA... but you may need to be a 'subscriber' to get all the details of each recall/TSB
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,421
    If you have the # and date of the TSB I'll post the details for him.


  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    Here are the specific codes

    PO351, PO352,PO353,PO354 -I believe corresponds to each of the connections to igintion coil, slots A-D.

    Presently slot A has plug 1, B -2, C-3, D-4

    All wires and plugs are new

    The last code is PO302 which is misfire cylinder 2

    I know I do not have the green ECT so will grab one. The needle sits at 0 for as long as I can recall. Years. Was told that is just how they are. I will also unhook the MAF as well
  • I own a 2000 Jetta VR6. I bought it at an auction and it didn't come with an owner's manual. The vehicle has 149,000 miles on it. I've been hearing that they don't have a timing belt on them but wasn't sure if that was true or not. Someone said that I should replace the belt. Does the car even have one though?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,421
    No it has a chain, but these have been known to wear out (especially the guides and tensioners) on these cars. No need to replace it preemptively, but if you start hearing timing chain noise, get to it right away. Big job, not easy. At your mileage I would check for timing chain noise when the engine first starts in the morning. If you aren't sure what chain noise is, have a technician listen for you---if the guides break, you've got yourself a big mess.


  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If you are seeing ALL those codes (P0351, P0352,P0353,P0354 )... and have new plugs and wires... all that is left is the coilpack itself. (or bad ground-connection to the coilpack) This is not an inexpensive part. I would personally consider a good used one from scrapyard if I could find one.

    BTW: I just installed a new (green) ECT (Engine Coolant Temparature) sensor in my wifes Jetta yesterday. Then I hooked up my laptop computer and reset all the codes. So far, the light on the dashboard has NOT come back on and the temparture guage has been working as expected.
  • suz18suz18 Posts: 1
    I have a 2011 2.0 VW Jetta, 16400 miles. Just had the axles replaced because the cv boots had slight tears. From the very first driver after they were replaced, I have loud noise when it reaches 38 RMP. I can not take it to 75-80 because the noise gets louder and you can feel it. My mechanic is confused. He then replaced the Rear Tranny mount (dog bone) because he noticed it did have more play in it then should have thinking this was the problem. He is now playing the guessing game. He even thought maybe the wheel bearing but it doesn't make the noise constantly. I do not have any $$$ to take it to the dealership. Help!!!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The rubbers on the CV joints were torn at 16K miles.... OWCHIE... The only time I have EVER had such a problem is when porcupines were nibbling on them to get at the road-salt from the winter. Most vehicles will go well over 100,000 miles before CV joints need any attention.

    Some of the cheap rebuilt "aftermarket" parts will not perform nor last nearly as long as real VW components.

    If you are CERTAIN that the new axles were properly installed and are original GERMAN components... then I am sorry to tell you that what you describe may be INSIDE the transmission.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    calivdub: If that noise was not there before the CV replacement, it sure sounds like the repair was not done correctly, or the replacements were defective. Has your tech gone back to make sure all bolts and fittings were properly tightened? Also, some vdubs have different axle lengths for each side, but I wouldn't think they could be mixed up. vwdawg
  • ndmike88ndmike88 Posts: 155
    Wouldn't your Jetta be under warranty? Its a 2011 with 16,000 miles. All repairs should be covered. Am I missing something here?
  • I have the exact same problem as you. I just had my axle replaced because of torn CV boots and now there is a very loud loise at 3800 RPM. I am afraid to drive it on the freeway because it is so loud. Did they finally figure out what was wrong with it?
  • Hi there
    can anyone assist me on how to determine whether the 99 jetta engine is aba or aeg
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,421
    The engine code and engine number (serial number) are die-stamped on the front of the cylinder block above the crankcase breather.

    In addition, an adhesive label on the drive belt cover lists the engine code and engine number.

    The engine code is also listed on the vehicle identification sticker in the luggage compartment.


  • shelfershelfer Posts: 4
    Car cut out. Spark and Compression are fine. Plugs are dry, so my diagnosis is lack of fuel...either plugged filter (or bad fuel pump) Car has about 140k miles on it and it looks to be an older filter (yes I know, daughters car for a long time that we bought foir other daughter). She usually had work done somewhere.

    Anyway, how does one release the fuel line connections? There are two very small holes on the connector - is there a special tool that goes in there or does it use the knid that goes in via the end of the line and spreads out the clip?

    In either case, is it a sized tool only for the German cars, or a standardized size.

    I've poked, probed and chanted...have yet to call a voodoo doctor or Mr. Spock to put the Vulcan pinch on it.

    Thanks in advance.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hey All: 2006 Golf w/ 86k miles. Typical annoying VW electrical "ghosts". Locks are supposed to self-lock after about one minute if no doors are opened (safety feature which re-locks the doors if unlocked due to remote "unlock" button being inadvertantly depressed). So...prob is, I assume, that the sensor on the driver door latch has failed, so the self-lock mechanism doesn't know the driver door has been opened, and the automatic locking activates anyway. Very annoying, and also presents the issue of the keys being locked in the car if you leave them inside (as my son discovered a few months back). All this to it possible to disable the self-lock feature? I have access to a VAG-COM. I would just as soon NOT spend $200 for a new latch plus several hours of labor tearing the door apart. Or am I on the wrong track here...some other solution that might be offered? Help! Thanks...vwdawg.
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