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Volkswagen Jetta Engine Questions

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  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    It might just be a bad temperature sensor. The the car actually overheat and boil over? The Engine coolant temperature sensors on these cars have a fairly high failure rate. My 04 Jetta failed at 40K miles, my daughter's 01 Jetta failed at 65K miles. The good news is that they don't cost much and are quite simple to replace. Do you know why your mechanic is telling you that you have major engine problems? The temperture sensors on these cars are a duel element sensor, one element feeds the temp gauge on the dash, the other elemant feeds the engine computer. Did you change the water pump when you changed the timing belt? Could just be a bad thermostat too.
  • ladonaladona Posts: 3
    I just had a new clutch put in my 97 jetta and now when I come to a stop the engine cuts off, is the clutch not adjusted right???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,975
    If the clutch was not releasing fully as you slowed down and pressed down on the clutch pedal, causing a stall because you are still in gear), you'd find it very difficult to select first gear and get going again.

    Try this---shift to neutral before you come to a stop and see if it stalls. If it doesn't ever stall in neutral but always stalls when you're in gear even with the clutch pedal down, then maybe you're right about the clutch.

    You could have what we call a problem of CORRELATION (two things happening separately at once) not CAUSATION (two things happening that are directly related).

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • ladonaladona Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info, I took it to another mechanic and he pin pointed the clutch. Again thanks.
  • :sick: I have a 2004 VW Jetta and recently the MIL and ESP lights have come on and there is this very loud annoying buzzing sound coming from the engine. And to top it off it has been hard to start and I have to push on the gas to keep it from stalling out. I have searched high and low to figure this out. Can you please help?!!! Thanks
  • My 1999 Jetta is also somewhat loud, but i often hear a "clicking" noise from the engine,noticable when i start it up in cold weather but quiets down a bit when its warm up, my mechanic tells me that it is normal volkswagen noise, but i also hear a clicking noise from under the car, sounds like its coming from the area of the c.converter...any ideas anyone???
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Yes, the "clicking" sound you hear is the hydrolic tappets... it is normal to hear them ticking when the oil is cold and harder to pump.

    Are you CERTAIN you are using the proper weight oil? (5W30) The first number in the viscosity rating of an oil is the COLD rating. If you are running 10W30 oil, then your oil is too thick when it is cold.

    Since this is an ENGINE forum... I will leave your quesiton about clicking noise from UNDER the car alone...
  • Hey I just bought a Jetta and don't know much about it. I bought an HKS Blow-off Valve and they didn't include directions of how to put it on. Is there anyone who could maybe talk me through this? Thanks let me know
  • ummm not sure what grade i have in there right now, i just went for an oil change and my mechanic put it in, but the clicking noise is still present even after the engine has had time to warm up...just not as loud.....that is normal?

    thanks for your help

    p.s do you know what forum i can post the question bout the noise under my car?

    thanks again
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,975
    Have you checked for an exhaust leak?

    If that clicking noise under the car is something you hear after you've shut the engine OFF and you're just sitting there, that's normal...what we gearheads call "heat sink".

    But if the clicking noise seems to get louder when you accelerate, or increases in frequency, it could be a small exhaust leak---and if it's really small, as the exhaust manifold or pipes heat up, they might seal the leak, thus explaining why it goes away or dminishes as you drive.

    Just a thought. A muffler shop could isolate this in a minute but make sure they SHOW you where the leak is. Could be nothing more than a loose clamp.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I have a 2000 Jetta GLS (2.0 Engine + 4 speed auto) with about 67,000 miles on the clock.
    About a week back, the check engine light came on making me miss a heartbeat. This stayed on for 2-3 days.
    After 2-3 days, it went away.
    The only thing I did different in the interim was to fill premium gas in the car - not that it should make any difference.
    The other point might be just psychological - but ever since this event, I feel that the check engine light stays on a second longer than the other dash lights when I start the car.

    Any ideas on what could be the reason behind this erratic behavior.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    This is NOT erratic behaviour on the part of the CEL. (Check Engine Light) There are many types of intermittent faults which could turn the light on... then, after several "trips" wheras the fault is not detected, then the CEL will reset itself.

    If you want to know which fault tripped the CEL, you would need to read the code while the CEL is on.

    BTW: The definition of a "trip" is a very specefic set of circumstances which must commence in a certan order. (Ie... Cold start, run to full temparture, stay there for specified time)
  • This happened about mid-week and I had scheduled a dealership visit on Saturday.
    So it is a good thing I did not immediately run off to the dealership and waited a couple of days.
    Probably save a couple of hundred dollars.

    It has been some time since the light came on.
    Do you think it warrants a check up - or all's OK.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Any kind of "checkup" while the CEL is off may not find any issues since they have "self reset" and perhaps been erased from the onboard computer.

    I would suggest that you not be concerned unless the CEL comes back on... then consider going to Autozone (or other parts place) that can "pull" the code for you free of charge.

    Then, come back here to Edmunds and tell us what the code is. We may be able to direct you from there.
  • I live in nj, and right now it is cold. I was driving tonight and noticed that the heat on the inside of my car wasn't as warm as usual, then noticed my temperature gauge was barely over a 1/4 of the way up. (it usually stays in the middle). As i was driving, sometimes while pressed on the gas, the gauge would rise, and when i was on flatter surfaces or downhill surfaces and the gas was not needed as much, the gauge would go down. what is going on????
  • This morning after I pulled out of my driveway, my '99 Jetta acted like it might stall after I accelerated and shifted into 2nd gear. I had to stop at the top of the street (stop sign), then started the whole routine over again. But this time, after I shifted into 2nd, it did a bit of lurching, then surged forward like it had suddenly gotten new life and would be OK. I tried shifting into 3rd to see what would happen, and then nearly killed it when I tried to accelerate. So I turned around and came home, but barely made it up the street to get back into the driveway. The lurching was much worse by this time.

    I bought this car used in '02 and have had many issues with it, but nothing like this. It IS extremely cold out, colder than it's been in a long time (single digits), and I didn't let the car warm up very much (although I usually don't and it performs just fine).

    Could this be a cold issue or does it sound like an engine thing? Thanks for any help...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Your Jetta is acting like a TDI. The trade-off for 56MPG is very little heat in the winter.

    ....but I assume you do not have the TDI engine. If you have a gasoline engine, then there should be enough wasted heat to keep the temp at 190.

    Given that this is not normal for your car, I would suggest that you check the following in this order;
    1) Coolant level
    2) Thermostat
    3) Waterpump
  • :( Hello,
    I am new to this forum and I hope thatg I can get some help on how to deal with a MIL with my VW 2002 Jetta 55K miles.

    The Check engine light came on and I noticed that the car engine is spinning more than what it supposed when I am driving ( as if I am going up a hill ).
    I invested $80 to get the OBD interface and SW and I could not get the fault code because the SW is telling no Fault codes are found. I have the SW and interface connected correctly because it is telling me that I need to replacethe front brakes ( light came on for the brake on the same week). I used the OBD tool while the engine running and I am seeing that the engine is running %10 faster than what it supposed when idle.
    Before I went and spent the $80 for the tool, I did change the air filter but that did not help
    The car had never had the plugs or the cap changed. Only had the brakes and regular oil change.
    I am not sure how much the dealer would charge ( asking $100 / hour for diag ) but I am not getting any fault with the tool & OBD SW.

    I thought about the quality of the gas that I put in last time, but the light came on after 3/4 of the tank was gone.
    I tried filling up the gas tank with premium after that but to no help.
    I am planning to change the plugs over the weekend since it seems that it is overdue already...
    you guys have any idea what could be the problem? Any help is greatly appreciated.....
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Many autoparts stores (like Autozone) will "pull the codes" for you free of charge.

    If you tell us what the code is, we may be able to help you.

    We would also need to know WHICH ENGINE you have. (Jettas had 4 engine choices in 2002)
  • rcnsgt1rcnsgt1 Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Jetta VR6 with 91,000 miles on it. I am getting ready to trade it in but need to check out why the CEL is on. It's been on and off for 10,000 miles but runs fine. What are the tools I see you talking about here the "OBD SW etc" are they hand held? Can they reset my CEL if there is no major problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • hotlottohotlotto Posts: 5
    It was my salesperson who told me it was the drive-by-wiring that was causing the stalling.

    Update: My salesperson and I drove the car together. We couldn't get it to stall during the test. (Of course) But neither were we really able to duplicate the traffic conditions in which the car tends to stall.
    My theory: I am 5'1 and under 110 lbs. (A smaller than average person.) I don't think my foot weighs enough to naturally engage the accelerator. Usually when I put my foot on an accelerator, the accelerator engages due to the weight of my foot alone. Not in this car. In this car I have to apply pressure at all times. This means that instead of easing up on the accelerator when switching from 3rd gear to 2nd and back again, I have to keep applying pressure in order to keep the engine stable. It is counter intuitive, uncomfortable and yes, my ankle gets tired.

    I ran my theory by my salesperson but he seems to have abandoned me. Thanks VW!
  • bf109acebf109ace Posts: 77
    This is the 2nd time my Jetta broke down on me while I was driving it. Both happend after one day of heavy raining. I suspect it had to do with water/moisture.

    The "engine oil presure" warning sign came up first and beeped. Didn't pay attention Then the engine just stalled.
    I was able to start it a few time but the idling is NOT stable and the engine died on itself again and again.

    I pulled over and started it again but it stopped on itself after 30 seconds. A burning/strong smell coming out of the hood(?). Some liquid on the floor under the engine but it is NOT motor oil (water?).

    Tried to start it again but no cranking sound. Just a wierd/strange sound under the hood when I turned the ignition. Did I break anything major?

    What do you think the problem is? Coil (I heard a wierd noise coming from the coil under the hood)? Electrical wires?

    I was planning to sell the car but now I cannot start it. What're my options? Repair it and sell it? Trade-in when buying my next car? It has 118K and worth $2500-2700 if it's running.

    BTW, the "check engine" has been on for half a year. Had it reset but it came back on again.

    Thanks/Richard
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The problem you describe is common with ignition parts that get wet (with water). This can often be fixed with new sparkplug wires.

    Some people use a "windex" bottle filled with water to spritz things under the hood while engine is idling. This often can pinpoint the problem.

    As for your CEL being on for half year... you should consider having thet looked at and corrected. (if you are NOT selling the car)
  • bf109acebf109ace Posts: 77
    Thanks for your reply. But I couldn't start the engine at all. It just made a wierd sound under the hood.

    The sound is brief. It sounds like the engine was trying to start but it's just one extended cranking sound (the sound came from where the coil is under the hood - just in the back the dashboard).

    I dared not keeping turning the key. Was the coil burnt? Someone else on VWvortex forum suggested that I might have seized the engine and the car is NOT worth repairing.

    On the other hand, another gentleman said there might be a crack on the coil and it should be replaced.

    I don't really want to spend a lot of money repairing the car because I plan to sell it soon before the next inspection (mid-April).

    Shall I have a mechanic to take a loot first and diagnoise the problem before I have my Jetta towed to their shop?

    What's the best approach for me at this point? The engine cannot be started. The car is parked in the parking lot behind my apt. Thanks.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    My daughter started having some intermitent rough idle and occasional stalling problems on rainy or even just humid days (she has a 2001 Jetta with the 2.o ltr engine). I figured it needed wires so I put a new set of spark plug wires on. It continued to do it after the new wires so I replaced the coil pack. That corrected the problem. The coil pack on these are pretty easy to remove/replace; I think that they sell a clear insulating spray that might work if you don't want to spend the $$ on a new coil pack. The water in a spray bottle is a good diagnostic tool for finding problems like that.
  • I just had the same thing happen on my VR6 w/125,000 miles. I took the car in for an oil change and to have them look at why my check coolant light was on. The dealer told me that the cost of all repairs would be $1700. This covered a new water pump, coil pack, internal tie rods and alignment (oh yeah, and the cost of diagnostics). I took the car to an independent mechanic who told me that the water pump wasn't perfect but was not leaking and there was no need to replace it. I had him replace the coil pack for much less than the dealer quoted, only to find out afterward that the catalytic converter was bad. I also have to have the tie rods replaced before inspection. Love the car, but I don't know if I will ever own another VW either.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I am just curious about why you say you may never own another VW. I sincirly hope that you are not suggesting that after 125,000 miles - it is unexpected that some repairs are needed.

    There may not be a vehicle on the planet that can go 120,000 miles without some kind of repairs. (I had a Honda Civic that needed the HEAD GASKET replaced 2 times before 100,000 miles... now that is a serious failure.)

    For me, It really comes down to how much I am spending monthly to keep a vehicle on the road. If the repairs are costing more than payments on a new car, then it is time to consider moving on.

    Personally, I would have FIXED the coil-pack or replaced it myself. It is a simple 5 minute task.
  • I did fix the coil pack. It cost me over $500. Just $1000 more for tie rods and a catalytic converter and it might just pass inspection! Make no mistake, I have invested in expected repairs regularly (rotors, brakes, belts....) BTW, save the condescending tone that we should all be able to rip parts off of the engine and replace them in 5 minutes. It makes it sound like you work for VW. Hmmm...maybe you do.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Ummm - did you even bother to read my bio? I have been working on mechanical things since I was old enough to hold a screwdriver.

    I do not work for VW ... but have owned many vehicles over the years and have concluded that VW is one of the best available. NONE of the Asian carmakers have 12-year/ unlimited milage corrosion warantee. (what use is a car the rusts into oblivian before it wears out?)

    Many repair shops charge WAYYY too much for mundane tasks and most folks that visit Edmunds APPRECEATE my assistance in not having to pay for trivial things they can do themselves.

    YES - it is pretty easy to R&R a coilpack in about 5-10 minutes... if one knows which end of a screwdriver to hold. (perhaps easier than hanging a picture on the wall!)

    If you do not want advice, then why are you here? This is a forum for folks that WANT to be helped. Complainers need not apply. 8-)

    BTW: Any automobile with that many miles on it could be needing those kind of items repaired. You are lucky it is a VW... or you would have been looking for another car years ago. It seems that you paied too much for the repairs and are now trying to blame VW and me.

    It still perplexes me that you can "Love the car"... but in the same sentence suggest you may never own another one.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    We're going off in a wrong direction here. We have a new member and we're glad to welcome her.

    Replacing a coil-pack in five minutes might be a snap for some and might scare others to death. No big deal either way. We all have talents and skills in some areas but not in others.

    She seems to be saying that even though she loves the car but maybe won't own another because of the issues she has described. They sound like a lot to deal with and certainly not inexpensive. But 125,000 miles is a lot on the clock, no question.

    If both of you could lighten up a bit, maybe she will clarify what she's saying and how we can help. Then we can move on and get back to business here. :)
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